The Rough Guide to New Zealand 6 (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

ROUGHGUIDES

THE ROUGH GUIDE to

New Zealand

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The Rough Guide to

New Zealand

written and researched by

Laura Harper, Tony Mudd and Paul Whitﬁeld with additional contributions by

Catherine Le Nevez

NEW YORK

•

LONDON

www.roughguides.com

•

DELHI

Introduction ............................... 6 Where to go ............................. 10 When to go .............................. 13 Things not to miss ................... 16

Dunedin to Stewart Island ................................ 665 The West Coast................. 715 Queenstown, Wanaka and the Gold Country .................... 769 ! Fiordland........................... 837

Basics

Contexts

Colour section

Getting there............................ 27 Getting around......................... 33 Accommodation ...................... 44 Food and drink ........................ 50 The media ................................ 55 Festivals and public holidays ... 57 Outdoor activities .................... 58 Spectator sports ...................... 69 Culture and etiquette ............... 71 Living in New Zealand.............. 72 Travel essentials ...................... 75

Guide

| C O NTENTS |

Contents

873

History ................................... 875 Chronology of New Zealand ... 891 Maoritanga............................. 893 Landscapes and wildlife ........ 902 Books .................................... 915 Film ....................................... 922

Language

925

Maori ..................................... 927 Glossary................................. 930

Small print & Index

Auckland and around .......... 91 Northland .......................... 165 Western North Island ........ 231 Central North Island .......... 295 The Coromandel, Bay of Plenty and the East Cape ............ 351 Poverty Bay, Hawke’s Bay and the Wairarapa.................... 411 Wellington and around ...... 455 Marlborough, Nelson and Kaikoura............................ 491 Christchurch and south to Otago................................ 565 The Central South Island... 625

933

Maori in the modern world colour section following p.264

Adrenalin heaven colour section following p.504 Protecting New Zealand’s native wildlife colour section following p.616

3 Lake Wakatipu SH6, near Punakaiki, the West Coast

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| INTR O D UCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

Introduction to

New Zealand New Zealand comes with a reputation as a unique land packed with magniﬁcent, raw scenery: craggy coastlines, sweeping beaches, primeval forests, snowcapped glacierfed lakes and unparalleled wildlife, all beneath a brilliant blue sky. Even Kiwis – named after the odd ﬂightless bird that has become the national emblem – are ﬁlled with astonishment at the stupendous vistas and variety of what they call “Godzone” (God’s own country).

All this encourages boundless diversions, from moody strolls along windswept beaches and multi-day tramps over alpine passes to adrenalin-charged adventure activities like bungy jumping and whitewater rafting. In fact, some visitors treat the country as a kind of largescale assault course, aiming to tackle as many challenges as possible in the time available. The one-time albatross of isolation (even Australia is two thousand kilometres away) has become a boon, bolstering New Zealand’s clean, green image – in truth, more an accident of geography than the result of government policy. Despite the country’s popularity, it remains largely free of the crowds you might expect. Almost everything is easily accessible, packed into a land area little larger than Britain but with a population of only 4.3 million, over half of it tucked away in the three largest cities: Auckland, the capital Wellington, and Christchurch on the South Island. Elsewhere, you can travel miles through verdant steep-hilled farmland without seeing a soul, and there are even remote spots that, it’s reliably contended, no human has yet visited.

Fact file • Adrift in the south Paciﬁc some 2000km east of Australia, New Zealand was only peopled around 800 years ago. • At 268,000 square kilometres, New Zealand is a little larger than the UK and about two-thirds the size of California. With 4.3 million people, most parts of the country are thinly populated, though Auckland has around 1.3 million inhabitants. • For an instinctively conservative nation, New Zealand has often been socially progressive. It was the ﬁrst country with votes for women and workers’ pensions, and now pursues a bicultural approach to its race relations.

| INTR O D UCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

Geologically, New Zealand split off from the super-continent of Gondwanaland early, developing a unique ecosystem in which birds adapted to fill the role normally held by mammals, many becoming flightless through lack of predators. That all changed around 800 years ago, when the arrival of Polynesian navigators made this the last major landmass to be settled by humans. On sighting the new land from their canoes, Maori named it Aotearoa – “the land of the long white cloud” – and proceeded to radically alter the fragile ecosystem, dispatching forever the giant ostrichsized moa, which formed a major part of their diet. A delicate balance was achieved before the arrival of Pakeha – white Europeans, predominantly of British origin – who swarmed off their square-rigged ships full of colonial zeal. Arrowtown, near Queenstown

• New Zealand has almost 40 million sheep. That’s nine for every inhabitant. • New Zealand’s economy has traditionally been agricultural, and dairy products, meat and wool remain central to its continued prosperity, with forestry and ﬁshing also playing a part. There is a growing “knowledge economy” and, with over 2 million visitors a year, tourism is a big earner. • New Zealand’s ﬂora and fauna developed independently, giving rise to a menagerie of exotica: tall tree ferns, the kea (an alpine parrot), the reptilian tuatara, the oddball kiwi, and many more.

The Lord of the Rings | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

When Peter Jackson chose to locate his Lord of the Rings trilogy in New Zealand the country rejoiced, even appointing a special minister for the project. However, few could have anticipated how completely it would take over the country. For thousands of visitors, no visit to Aotearoa is complete without a tour of ﬁlm locations. Despite efforts to minimize the impact on the land and remove all sets, enterprising individuals have set up tours to show where it all happened. While this is a good way to see some of the country’s magniﬁcent scenery, be prepared for some disappointment. Scenes rarely look as they did in the ﬁlms. Mountains from one part of the country were often used as a backdrop for plains hundreds of kilometres away, and digital manipulation has rendered many landscapes unrecognizable. For more information see “Books”, p.919. North Island Otaki Gorge p.299 Location for much of the Shire. Tongariro National Park p.332 Mount Doom and Mordor were mainly shot here. Putangirua Pinnacles p.452 Aragorn journeyed through on the Dimholt Road. Wellington p.457 Helm’s Deep was in the now-inaccessible Dry Creek Quarry, parts of the hobbits’ ﬂight from the Nazgûl were on Mount Victoria, and the Embassy Theatre saw the world premiere of The Return of the King.

South Island Nelson p.515 Jens Hansen jewellers made the “One Ring To Rule Them All”. Mount Owen p.540 Near Nelson, this was the location for Dimrill Dale. Mount Sunday p.646 The foothills of the Alps became Edoras, capital of Rohan. Twizel p.659 Barren ﬁelds west of town were the location for the Battle of Pelennor Fields, though Queenstown’s the Remarkables became the backdrop. Arrowtown p.794 The Ford of Bruinen was shot here and in Skippers Canyon. Queenstown p.774 The Pillars of the Kings were ﬁlmed on the Kawarau River near the bungy bridge; numerous scenes were shot at The Deer Park; and part of the Remarkables became Dimrill Dale. Glenorchy p.800 Scenes of Isengard and Lothlórien were shot here and Saruman’s tower, Orthanc, was digitally mapped onto the landscape. Mavora Lakes p.810 The island of Nen Hithoel was shot here. Wanaka p.810 The ride to Rivendell occurred near here.

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

The subsequent uneasy coexistence between Maori and European societies informs the current wrangles over cultural identity and land and resource rights. The British didn’t invade as such, and were to some degree reluctant to enter into the 1840 Treaty of Waitangi, New Zealand’s founding document, which effectively ceded New Zealand to the British Crown while guaranteeing Maori hegemony over their land and traditional gathering and fishing rights. As time wore on and increasing numbers of settlers demanded to buy ever larger parcels of land from Maori, antipathy soon surfaced, eventually escalating to hostility. Once Maori were subdued, a policy of partial integration all but destroyed Maoritanga – the Maori way of doing things. Maori, however, were left well outside the new European order, where difference was perceived as tantamount to a betrayal of the emergent sense of nationhood. Although elements of this still exist and Presbyterian and Anglican values have proved hard to shake off, the Kiwi psyche has become infused with Maori generosity and hospitality, coupled with a colonial mateyness and the unerring belief that whatever happens, “she’ll be right”. However, an underlying inferiority complex lingers: you may well find yourself interrogated as to your opinions of the country almost before you leave the airport. Balancing this is an extraordinary enthusiasm for sports and culture, which generate a swelling pride in New Zealanders when they witness plucky Kiwis taking on the world. The All Blacks perform the haka

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

Paua Paua is New Zealand’s endemic species of abalone, and is found in shallow waters, encrusted in a lime scale. With vigorous polishing this can be removed to reveal a wonderfully iridescent shell, all swirls of silver, blue, green and purple. Early Maori used slivers as lures to catch the eye of ﬁsh and inlaid shaped pieces into carvings, especially as the eyes of tiki ﬁgures. Its later use in tourist trinkets has produced some wonderfully kitsch items, but you’re more likely to appreciate its use in Maori crafts, perhaps incorporated into a brooch or inlaid in a mirror frame.

Only in the last thirty years has New Zealand come of age and developed a true national self-confidence, something partly forced on it by Britain severing the colonial apron strings in the early 1970s, and partly by the resurgence of Maori identity. Maori demands have been nurtured by a willingness on the part of most Pakeha to redress the wrongs perpetrated over the last century and a half, as long as it doesn’t impinge on their high standard of living or overall feeling of control. More recently, integration has been replaced with a policy of biculturalism – promoting two cultures alongside each other, but with maximum interaction. The uncertainties of this future are further compounded by extensive recent immigration from China, Korea and South Asia.

Where to go

ew Zealand packs a lot into the limited space available and is small enough that you can visit the main sights in a couple of weeks, but allow a month for a reasonable look around. Obviously, the scenery is the big draw, and most people only pop into the big cities on arrival and departure – something easily done with open-jaw air tickets allowing you to fly into Auckland and out of Christchurch. Go-ahead Auckland is sprawled around the sparkling Waitemata Harbour, an arm of the island-studded Hauraki Gulf. From here, most people head south, missing out on Northland, the cradle of both Maori and Pakeha colonization, which is cloaked in wonderful sub-tropical forest harbouring New Zealand’s largest kauri trees. East of Auckland

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO Auckland and Rangitoto Island

the coast follows the isolated greenery and long, golden beaches of the Coromandel Peninsula, before running down to the beach towns of the Bay of Plenty. The lands immediately south are assailed by the everpresent sulphurous whiff of Rotorua, with its spurting geysers and bubbling pools of mud, and the volcanic plateau centred on the trout-filled waters of Lake Taupo and three snowcapped volcanoes. Cave fans will want to head west of Taupo to the eerie limestone caverns of Waitomo. From Taupo it’s just a short hop to the delights of canoeing on the Whanganui River, a broad, emerald green waterway banked by virtually impenetrable bush and the almost perfect cone of Mount Taranaki, whose summit is accessible in a day. East of Taupo lie the ranges that form the North Island’s backbone, and beyond them the Hawke’s Bay wine country, centred on the Art Deco city of Napier. Further south, the up-and-coming wine region of Martinborough is just an hour or so away from the capital, Wellington, its centre squeezed onto reclaimed harbourside land and suburbs slung across steep hills overlooking glistening bays. Politicians and bureaucrats give it well-scrubbed and urbane sophistication, enlivened by a burgeoning café society and after-dark scene. The South Island kicks off with the world-renowned wineries of Marlborough and appealing Nelson, a pretty and compact spot surrounded by lovely beaches and within easy reach of the hill country around the Nelson Lakes National Park and the fabulous sea kayaking of the Abel Tasman National Park. From the top of the South Island you’ve a choice of nipping around behind the 3000-metre summits of the Southern Alps and following the West Coast to the fabulous glaciers at Fox and Franz Josef, or sticking to the east, passing the whale-watching territory of Kaikoura en route to the South Island’s

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO 12

largest centre, straight-laced Christchurch, a city with its roots firmly in the traditions of England. From here it’s possible to head across country to the West Coast via Arthur’s Pass on one of the country’s most scenic train trips, or shoot southwest across the patchwork Canterbury Plains to the foothills of the Southern Alps and Aoraki Mount Cook with its distinctive drooping-tent summit.

Hot pools, geysers and boiling mud One of the lasting memories of time spent in New Zealand is laying back in a bush-girt natural hot pool gazing up at the stars. New Zealand lies on the Paciﬁc Ring of Fire, and earthquakes and volcanic activity are common. Superheated steam ﬁnds its way to the surface as geysers (only around Rotorua), boiling mud pools (Rotorua and Taupo) and hot springs. Blissfully, there are around eighty hot springs across the northern two-thirds of the North Island and another ﬁfteen along a thin thread down the western side of the Southern Alps. Over thirty are commercial resorts offering tepid swimming pools, near scalding baths, BBQ areas and perhaps mineral mud and hydrothermal pampering. The remainder are natural pools, either in the bush, beside a stream or welling up from below a sandy beach. A few are well known, but many more require a little sleuthing: locals like to keep the best spots to themselves. Check out Wwww.nzhotpools.co.nz, which includes a hot pools’ map of the country, links to resorts and details of how to get to some of the free natural hot pools. Also read our notes on amoebic meningitis on p.79. To get you started, we’ve picked a handful of the best well-known spots (listed north to south). Polynesian Spa Commercial resort right in Rotorua with something for everyone: mineral pools, family spa, adult-only open-air complex and all manner of body treatments. See p.305 Hot Water Beach Come at low tide, rent a spade and dig yourself a hot pool beside the cool surf. See p.376 Maruia Springs Small resort in the hills 200km north of Christchurch. Particularly magical in winter. See p.633 Welcome Flat Hot Springs Four natural pools gloriously sited amid mountain scenery just south of Fox Glacier. It is a six- to seven-hour walk in and you can stay at the adjacent DOC hut. See p.761

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

Picnicking on Kapiti Island, Western North Island

The flatlands of Canterbury run down, via the grand architecture of Oamaru, to the unmistakably Scottish-influenced city of Dunedin, a base for exploring the teeming wildlife of the Otago Peninsula with its albatross colony and opportunities for penguin-watching. In the middle of the nineteenth century, prospectors arrived here and rushed inland to gold strikes throughout central Otago and around stunningly set Queenstown, now a highly commercialized activity centre where bungy jumping, rafting, jetboating and skiing hold sway. This is also the tramping heartland, with the Routeburn Track linking Queenstown to the rain-sodden fiords, lakes and mountains of Fiordland, and the famous Milford Track. The further south you travel, the more you’ll feel the bite of the Antarctic winds, which reach their peak on New Zealand’s third landmass, the tiny and isolated Stewart Island, covered mostly by dense coastal rainforest that offers one of your best chances of spotting a kiwi in the wild.

When to go With over a thousand kilometres of ocean in every direction, it comes as no surprise that New Zealand has a maritime climate, warm through the southern summer months of December to March and never truly cold, even in winter.

Little Kaiteriteri, Abel Tasman National Park

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO $PPL4US

Weather patterns are strongly affected by the prevailing westerlies, which suck up moisture from the Tasman Sea and dump it on the western side of both islands. The South Island gets the lion’s share, with the West Coast and Fiordland ranking among the world’s wettest places. The mountain ranges running the length of both islands cast long rain shadows over the eastern lands, making them considerably drier, though the south is a few degrees cooler than elsewhere, and sub-tropical Auckland and Northland are appreciably more humid. In the North Island, warm, damp summers fade almost imperceptibly into cool, wet winters, but the further south you go the more the year divides into four distinct seasons. / Such regional variation makes it viable to visit at "VDLMBOE /PSUI any time of year, provided *TMBOE you pick your destinations. 5"4."/ 4&" The summer months from December to March 8FMMJOHUPO are the most popular and )PLJUJLB you’ll find everything 4PVUI $ISJTUDIVSDI *TMBOE open, though often packed 1 "$*'*$ 0$ &"/ 2VFFOTUPXO with holidaying Kiwis from Christmas to mid LN January. Accommodation BJU

Average monthly temperatures and rainfall Jan

Feb Mar Apr

May Jun July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

23 16 79 73 61 3.1

23 16 94 73 61 3.7

22 19 15 13 81 97 72 66 59 55 3.2 3.8

17 11 112 63 52 4.4

14 9 137 57 48 5.4

13 8 145 55 46 5.7

14 16 17 8 9 11 117 102 102 57 61 63 46 48 52 4.6 4.0 4.0

19 21 12 14 89 79 66 70 54 57 3.5 3.1

21 13 81 70 55 3.2

19 17 12 11 81 97 66 63 54 52 3.2 3.8

14 8 117 57 46 4.6

13 7 117 55 45 4.6

12 6 137 54 43 5.4

12 6 117 54 43 4.6

14 8 97 57 46 3.8

16 9 102 61 48 4.0

17 19 10 12 89 89 63 66 50 54 3.5 3.5

21 12 56 70 54 2.2

21 12 43 70 54 1.7

19 17 10 7 48 48 66 63 50 45 1.9 1.9

13 11 4 2 66 66 55 52 39 36 2.6 2.6

10 11 2 2 69 48 50 52 36 36 2.7 1.9

14 4 46 57 39 1.8

17 7 43 63 45 1.7

19 21 8 11 48 56 66 70 46 52 1.9 2.2

19 12 262 66 54 10.3

19 12 191 66 54 7.5

18 11 239 64 52 9.4

14 6 244 57 43 9.6

12 3 218 54 37 8.6

21 10 79 70 50 3.1

21 10 72 70 50 2.8

20 15 9 7 74 72 68 59 48 45 2.9 2.8

Auckland av. av. av. av. av. av.

max. temp. (ºC) min. temp. (ºC) rainfall (mm) max. temp. (ºF) min. temp. (ºF) rainfall (inches)

| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

throughout summer is at a premium. In general, you’re better off joining the bulk of foreign visitors during the shoulder seasons – October, November and April – when sights and attractions can be a shade quieter, and rooms easier to come by. Winter (May–Sept) is the wettest, coldest and consequently least popular time, though Northland can still be relatively balmy. The switch to prevailing southerly winds tends to bring periods of crisp, dry and cloudless weather to the West Coast and heavy snowfalls to the Southern Alps and Central North Island, allowing New Zealand to offer some of the most varied and least-populated skiing and snowboarding anywhere.

Wellington av. av. av. av. av. av.

max. temp. (ºC) min. temp. (ºC) rainfall (mm) max. temp. (ºF) min. temp. (ºF) rainfall (inches)

Christchurch av. av. av. av. av. av.

max. temp. (ºC) min. temp. (ºC) rainfall (mm) max. temp. (ºF) min. temp. (ºF) rainfall (inches)

Hokitika av. av. av. av. av. av.

max. temp. (ºC) min. temp. (ºC) rainfall (mm) max. temp. (ºF) min. temp. (ºF) rainfall (inches)

16 8 236 61 46 9.3

12 3 231 54 37 9.1

12 13 15 16 18 3 6 8 9 11 239 226 292 267 262 54 55 59 61 64 37 43 46 48 52 9.4 8.9 11.5 10.5 10.3

Queenstown av. av. av. av. av. av.

max. temp. (ºC) min. temp. (ºC) rainfall (mm) max. temp. (ºF) min. temp. (ºF) rainfall (inches)

11 9 3 1 64 58 52 48 37 34 2.5 2.3

9 11 0 1 59 63 48 52 32 34 2.3 2.5

14 3 66 57 37 2.6

18 5 77 64 41 3.0

19 20 7 10 64 62 66 68 45 50 2.5 2.4

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that New Zealand has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the islands’ highlights: outstanding buildings and natural wonders, adventure activities and exotic wildlife. They’re arranged in five colour-coded categories, which you can browse through to find the very best things to see and experience. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

Milford Sound Page 853 • Experience the grandeur and beauty of Fiordland on the area’s most accessible ﬁord, especially atmospheric when the mist descends after heavy rainfall.

Wai-O-Tapu Page 317 • The best of Rotorua’s geothermal sites, Wai-O-Tapu offers beautiful, mineral-coloured lakes, plopping mud pools and a geyser that erupts on cue each morning.

Bungy jumping Page 65 • New Zealand’s trademark adventure sport can be tried at Kawerau Bridge, the original commercial jump site, or some of the super-high mega jumps nearby.

Abel Tasman National Park Page 522 • Kayaking the shoreline or hiking the Coast Track is a great way to see the Abel Tasman National Park.

Taieri Gorge Railway Page 682 • Dating back to 1859, the Taieri Gorge Railway penetrates otherwise inaccessible mountain landscapes and is a dramatic journey at any time of the year.

Surfing at Raglan Page 243 • A left-hand break that’s one of the world’s longest, coupled with reliable swells, makes Raglan a prime surﬁng destination.

Christchurch Art Gallery Page 579 • The South Island’s most extensive collection of New Zealand art is housed in a striking modern building in the heart of Christchurch.

Farewell Spit Page 539 • This slender 25km arc of sand dunes and beaches is a nature reserve protecting a host of bird species including black swans, wrybills, curlews and dotterels.

White Island Page 397 • Take an appealing boat trip out to New Zealand’s most active volcano, and stroll through the sulphurous lunar landscape to peer into the steaming crater.

Moeraki Boulders Page 620 • Don’t pass through the Oamaru area without a visit to the these large, perfectly round, natural spheres with a honeycomb centre, just sitting in the surf.

Hangi Page 52 • Sample fall-offthe-bone pork and chicken along with sweet potatoes and pumpkin, disinterred after several hours’ steaming in a Maori earth oven.

Otago Central Rail Trail Page 831 • Taking three leisurely days on a bike is the best way to tackle this 150km trail, which follows the route of a former rail line through some ruggedly barren country.

Wine Page 54 • New Zealand produces some world-beating wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region.

The Routeburn Track Page 806 • One of the country’s ﬁnest walks, showcasing forested valleys, rich birdlife, thundering waterfalls, river ﬂats, lakes and wonderful mountain scenery.

Tree ferns Page 906 • New Zealand has a unique ecosystem, its ubiquitous tree ferns sometimes reaching up to 10m in height and providing shade for more delicate specimens.

Whanganui River Journey Page 273 • This relaxing three-day canoe trip along a historic waterway takes you far away from roads through some of the North Island’s loveliest scenery. 20

Whale watching Page 559 • Whale watching off the Kaikoura Peninsula is justiﬁably highly popular, and you don’t have to stick to a boat trip to do it, with plane and helicopter rides on offer to up the adrenalin ante.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing Page 340 • A superb one-day hike through the volcanic badlands of the Tongariro National Park, passing the cinder cone of Mount Ngauruhoe, along the shores of turquoise lakes and with long views right across the North Island.

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa) Page 468 • A celebration of the people, culture and art of New Zealand that’s as appealing to kids as it is to adults, with an impressive use of state-of-the-art technology.

Art Deco, Napier Page 431 • The world’s most homogenous collection of small-scale Art Deco architecture owes its genesis to the devastating 1931 earthquake that ﬂattened Napier.

Hokianga Harbour Page 219 • As a low-key antidote to the commercialization of the Bay of Islands, the sand dunes, quiet retreats and crafts culture of the Hokianga Harbour are hard to beat.

Diving at the Poor Knights Islands Page 182 • Two-dive day-trips visit any of several dozen sites at one of the world’s best diving destinations. A couple of nearby naval wrecks add to the possibilities.

The glaciers Page 752 • The steep and dramatic Fox and Franz Josef glaciers can be explored by glacier hike, ice climbing and helicopter ﬂights landing on the snowﬁelds above.

Karori Sanctuary Page 475 • On the edge of Wellington yet seemingly a million miles from anything urban, this beautiful fenced-in nature reserve is restocking its 235 hectares with purely native ﬂora and fauna.

East Cape Page 402 • A varied coastline and the slow pace of life make the East Cape a place to linger.

Ninety Mile Beach Page 214 • This seemingly endless wave-lashed golden strand is a designated highway, plied by tour buses that regularly stop to let passengers toboggan down the steep dunes.

Jetboating Page 65 • This countrywide obsession ﬁnds its most iconic expression in Queenstown’s Shotover River, but there are excellent jetboating opportunities all over the country.

Caving and cave rafting Page 248 • Enter Waitomo’s labyrinthine netherworld on huge abseils and explore its glow-worm-ﬁlled cave systems while ﬂoating down streams on inner tubes.

29 24

The Catlins Coast Page 692 • Seals and dolphins and a slow pace of life make the Catlins a great place to unwind for a few days.

Penguin watching Page 688 • Penguin Place, on the Otago Peninsula, offers the rare chance to see a protected penguin nesting area close up from a unique system of hides and trenches.

Basics

Basics Getting there ............................................................................. 27 Getting around .......................................................................... 33 Accommodation ....................................................................... 44 Food and drink.......................................................................... 50 The media ................................................................................. 55 Festivals and public holidays.................................................... 57 Outdoor activities...................................................................... 58 Spectator sports ....................................................................... 69 Culture and etiquette ................................................................ 71 Living in New Zealand............................................................... 72 Travel essentials........................................................................ 75

There are very few charter ﬂights or all-in package deals to New Zealand, so ﬂying there almost always involves scheduled ﬂights. Fares depend on the season, with the highest prices during the New Zealand summer (Dec–Feb); fares drop during the shoulder seasons (Sept–Nov & March–May) and you’ll get the cheapest prices during the low (ski) season (June–Aug). If New Zealand is only one stop on a longer journey, you might want to consider buying a Round-the-World (RTW) ticket. Some travel agents can sell you an “off-the-shelf” RTW ticket that will have you touching down in about half a dozen cities (Auckland is on many itineraries); others will have to assemble one for you, which can be tailored to your needs, though this is liable to be more expensive. Tourists and those on short-term working visas (see p.73) are generally required by New Zealand immigration to arrive with a ticket out of the country, so one-way tickets are really only viable for Australian and New Zealand residents. If you’ve purchased a return ticket and ﬁnd you want to stay longer or head off on a totally different route, it’s sometimes possible to cash in the return half of your ticket (though you’ll make a loss on the deal) at the same travel agent where you bought it. Alternatively, you could try ﬂogging it on the Internet – but don’t hold your breath.

From the UK and Ireland Over a dozen airlines compete to ﬂy you from Britain to New Zealand for as little as £690, but prices depend upon the time of year, and can rocket up to around £1800 at Christmas. Going for the cheapest ﬂight typically means sacriﬁcing some comfort, which you may regret, given that your journey will last at least

24 hours, longer if your ﬂight makes more than the obligatory refuelling stop. There are no direct ﬂights to New Zealand from Ireland, and prices are proportionately higher, since the short hop to London (£80–100 return, cheaper with Internet deals) has to be added on to the fare. No matter how keen you are to arrive in New Zealand, it makes sense, mostly from a health point of view, to break the journey, and most scheduled ﬂights allow multiple stopovers either in North America and the Paciﬁc, or Asia and Australia. The vast majority of direct scheduled ﬂights depart from London Heathrow, though some services operate from London Gatwick and Manchester. Overseas ﬂights into Wellington or Dunedin are rare, so the only real choice is between the main international airport at Auckland, in the north of the North Island, and the airport at Christchurch, midway down the South Island. Christchurch receives fewer direct ﬂights but many scheduled airlines have a code-share shuttle from Auckland at no extra cost. The most desirable option, an open-jaw ticket (ﬂying into one and out of the other), usually costs no more than an ordinary return and means not retracing your steps to leave. The best deals along ﬁxed Round-theWorld (RTW; usually valid for 12 months) routes include London through Buenos

| Getting there

The quickest and easiest way to get to New Zealand is to ﬂy. It is possible to arrive by sea, but unless you own a boat, this means joining a cruise, paying for your passage on a cargo ship or joining a private yacht as crew – all of which are expensive and time-consuming.

BASICS

Getting there

Departure tax New Zealand’s departure tax is never included in airline ticket prices. When you leave the country, each person aged 12 and over must pay $25 (in NZ dollars; credit cards accepted) after check-in.

BASICS

| Getting there

Aires, Auckland, Sydney, Bangkok and Nairobi for £1350–1600, or Doha, Bangkok, Singapore, Sydney, Auckland and Los Angeles for £729–1100; Trailﬁnders (see p.31) will usually knock a little off using slightly amended routes. It is also possible to reduce your ﬂight costs by incorporating an overland section into your RTW ticket: common land sectors include Delhi to Kathmandu, Brisbane or Sydney to Cairns, and Buenos Aires to São Paulo. Routes combining the resources of two or more airlines in a RTW ticket are more expensive and almost inﬁnitely variable.

From the US and Canada The only direct trans-Paciﬁc ﬂights to New Zealand are those from Los Angeles to Auckland (with Air New Zealand and Qantas), San Francisco to Auckland (with Air New Zealand), and Vancouver to Auckland (again with Air New Zealand), a ﬂight of 12–16 hours. These are the only companies ﬂying planes, but assorted code-share partners – Air Canada, American Airlines, British Airways, etc – will sell tickets to New Zealand, usually offering several connections a day to the two other major airports, Wellington and Christchurch. From the US an LA–Auckland or San Francisco–Auckland round-trip Apex fare goes for around US$900 during the southern winter, rising to about US$1700 in peak southern summer season. Flights from all other US cities are routed via California. Off-peak you

might expect to pay US$1400–1800 from New York or Chicago, but shopping around the discount agents or checking out the newspapers for special offers could save you more than a few bucks. From Canada, Air New Zealand run direct Vancouver–Auckland ﬂights and code-share with Air Canada for links to provincial capitals. Depending on the season, sample Apex midweek fares are in the following ranges: from Vancouver CAN$1200–1800; from Toronto CAN$2100–2600; from Montréal CAN$2200–2600. Substantial savings can sometimes be made through discount travel companies and websites. An alternative approach is to ﬂy via Asia. It isn’t as much of a detour as it sounds, especially if you’re ﬂying from Canada or the east coast of the US, and may work out cheaper. Korean Airlines has ﬂights from Anchorage, Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, Seattle, Toronto, Vancouver and Washington DC, all changing at Seoul (Incheon) before continuing on to Auckland. If New Zealand is only one stop on a longer journey, you might consider a Round-theWorld (RTW) ticket. A sample itinerary of LA–Samoa–Fiji–Auckland–Sydney–Kuala Lumpur–Istanbul–London–LA would cost US$3400 (low-season departure). An equally exotic option is to stop off at a Paciﬁc island or two along the way. Air New Zealand visits half a dozen islands and often charges less than US$100 per stopover.

Internal flights

If you are planning on doing a lot of travelling within New Zealand, especially between the North and South islands, book your tickets online well in advance – reductions can be as high as ﬁfty percent. It may also be worth looking into the air passes offered by Air New Zealand. The airline markets a variety of cheap one-way ﬂights from Auckland and Christchurch to various NZ destinations, if booked at the same time as an international ﬂight. Alternatively, within the Domestic, Tasman and Paciﬁc booking section of their website, you can buy one-way ﬂights to a number of destinations at Smart Saver fares (the cheapest tickets, all recently reduced by up to 27 percent to try to see off competition from Qantas and to a lesser degree Paciﬁc Blue), or use a South Paciﬁc Air Pass, based on a zone system within New Zealand. Flying within zone one costs NZ$120, zone two NZ$210, three NZ$290, four NZ$340. Qantas’s Boomerang Pass is available to all international travellers (not just Qantas ticket holders), and comprises zones dependent upon air miles – zone one costs £65 for anything up to 1200km, zone two £120 for anything up to 1840km and zone three £146 for anything, in Oz or NZ, above 1841km.

Travelling to New Zealand from South Africa generally involves ﬂying via Australia. Qantas ﬂies Johannesburg–Sydney then on to Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch. South African Airlines (W www.ﬂyssa.com) operates the same route as a codeshare with Qantas and Air New Zealand. Expect to pay R15,000–24,000 depending on season.

Airlines, agents and tour operators Many airlines and discount travel websites offer you the opportunity to book your tickets online, cutting out the costs of agents and middlemen. Good deals can often be found through discount or auction sites, as well as the airlines’ own websites. If time is limited and you have a clear idea of what it is you want to do, there are good deals going on tours. There are loads of companies, offering everything from ﬂexible backpackeroriented excursions through mainstream bus tours to no-expense-spared extravaganzas. Full “see-it-all” packages can work out to be quite expensive but aren’t bad value, considering what you’d be spending anyway. A number of companies operate ﬂexible bus tours, which you can hop off whenever you like and rejoin a day or two later when the next bus comes through (see p.36 for details of these). Pretty much all the major tour operators can also book you onto tramping trips, including some of the guided Great Walks (see p.66); you’ll still need to book way in advance, though. For skiing trips, the cheapest option is usually to contact ski clubs at the ﬁelds directly: check out the contacts at Wwww.snow.co.nz. Even if an all-in package doesn’t appeal, there may be some mileage in pre-booking some accommodation, tours or a rental vehicle through a travel agent.

| Getting there

From South Africa

Qantas, Jetstar, Air New Zealand and Paciﬁc Blue all operate frequent ﬂights between Australia and New Zealand, and the competition keeps prices reasonable. It may also be worth checking out the less frequent ﬂights with Thai, Singapore, Emirates and Aerolineas Argentinas, especially if New Zealand is part of wider travels. It’s a relatively short hop across the Tasman Sea: ﬂying time from Sydney or Melbourne to Auckland or Christchurch is around three hours. There’s an ever-changing range of special offers, and your best bet is to check the latest with a specialist travel agent (see p.31) or visit the airlines’ websites. Some of the best deals are with Qantas’ budget wing, Jetstar, which ﬂies to Christchurch from Brisbane, the Gold Coast, Melbourne and Sydney and offers fares as low as A$330 return if you’re prepared to go for non-refundable JetSaver tickets. Paciﬁc Blue is equally competitive, with direct ﬂights from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney to Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. Qantas and Air New Zealand each ﬂy several daily trans-Tasman ﬂights, and prices vary enormously depending on demand: book well in advance in summer. By shopping around you should be able to land a return ﬂight from most eastern cities to Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch or Dunedin for A$500. Flights from Perth start at around A$1000. Open-jaw tickets – which let you ﬂy into one city and out of another, making your own way between – can save a lot of backtracking, and add little (if anything) to the total fare. There are also various air passes for internal ﬂights available (see “Getting Around”, p.28, for details). There’s a huge variety of holidays and tours to New Zealand available in Australia. For example, Air New Zealand’s holiday subsidiary packages short city-breaks (ﬂight and accommodation) and ﬂy-drive deals for little more than the cost of the regular airfare. In winter, there are accommodation skiing packages to New Zealand’s ski-ﬁelds; allinclusive four-day trips to Queenstown start from A$800, rising to A$1000 for a sevenday trip.

BASICS

From Australia

Airlines In the UK and Ireland Aerolineas Argentinas UK T020/7290 7887, W www.aerolineas.com.ar. London Heathrow via Madrid and Buenos Aires to Auckland. Air Canada UK T0871/220 1111, Republic of Ireland T01/679 3958; W www.aircanada.ca.

Fly less – stay longer! Travel and Climate Change BASICS

| Getting there

Climate change is perhaps the single biggest issue facing our planet. It is caused by a build-up in the atmosphere of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases, which are emitted by many sources – including planes. Already, ﬂights account for thre to four percent of human-induced global warming: that ﬁgure may sound small, but it is rising year on year and threatens to counteract the progress made by reducing greenhouse emissions in other areas. Rough Guides regard travel as a global beneﬁt, and feel strongly that the advantages to developing economies are important, as are the opportunities for greater contact and awareness among peoples. But we also believe in travelling responsibly, which includes giving thought to how often we ﬂy and what we can do to redress any harm that our trips may create. We can travel less or simply reduce the amount we travel by air (taking fewer trips and staying longer, or taking the train if there is one); we can avoid night ﬂights (which are more damaging); and we can make the trips we do take “climate neutral” via a carbon offset scheme. Offset schemes run by climatecare.org, carbonneutral.com and others allow you to “neutralize” the greenhouse gases that you are responsible for releasing. Their websites have simple calculators that let you work out the impact of any ﬂight – as does our own. Once that’s done, you can pay to fund projects that will reduce future emissions by an equivalent amount. Please take the time to visit our website and make your trip climate neutral, or get a copy of the Rough Guide to Climate Change for more detail on the subject. www.roughguides.com/climatechange

From London Heathrow to Auckland via Vancouver and Honolulu. Air New Zealand UK T0800/028 4149, Wwww .airnewzealand.co.nz. To Auckland, via Los Angeles and the popular South Paciﬁc route with a choice of stopovers in Honolulu, Fiji, Western Samoa, the Cook Islands, Tahiti and Tonga. There’s also a daily service from London to Auckland via Hong Kong. British Airways UK T 0870/850 9850, Republic of Ireland T 1890/626 747; Wwww.britishairways .com. From London Heathrow to Auckland and Christchurch, with stopovers in LA or Brisbane. Cathay Pacific UK T 020/8834 8888, Wwww .cathaypaciﬁc.com. Garuda Indonesia UK T 020/7467 8661, Wwww .garuda-indonesia.com. London Gatwick to Auckland via Bangkok and Bali. Japan Airlines UK T 0845/774 7700, W www.jal .co.jp. Heathrow to Auckland via Tokyo. Korean Air UK T0800/413 000, Republic of Ireland T 01/799 7990; Wwww.koreanair.com. Heathrow to Auckland and Christchurch via Seoul. Malaysia Airlines (MAS) Wwww.malaysianairlines .com. From Heathrow to Auckland via Kuala Lumpur. Qantas UK T 020/8846 0466, Republic of Ireland T 01/407 3278; W www.qantas.com.au. From Heathrow to Auckland and Christchurch, via LA, Bangkok, Singapore, Sydney and Melbourne.

Singapore Airlines UK T0844/800 2380, Republic of Ireland T01/671 0722; Wwww .singaporeair.com. Flights from Heathrow and Manchester to Auckland and Christchurch via Singapore, long wait at Singapore on Manchester ﬂights. Thai Airways International UK T0870/606 0911, W www.thaiair.com. From Heathrow to Auckland via Bangkok and Sydney.

In the US and Canada Air Canada T1-888/247-2262, W www .aircanada.ca Air New Zealand US T 1-800/262-1234, Canada T1-800/663-5494; Wwww.airnewzealand.com American Airlines T 1-800/433-7300, W www .aa.com British Airways T1-800/247-9297, Wwww .britishairways.com Korean Airlines T1-800/438-5000, Wwww .koreanair.com Qantas Airways T1-800/227-4500, W www .qantas.com

In Australia Aerolineas Argentinas T02/9234 9000, W www.aerolineas.com.ar Air New Zealand T13 2476, Wwww.airnz.com.au

In the UK North South Travel UK T & F 01245/608 291, W www.northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide – proﬁts are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism. Quest Worldwide T0845/880 0248, Wwww .questtravel.com. Specialists in round-the-world and Australasian discount fares. STA Travel UK T 0871/230 0040, Wwww .statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in low-cost ﬂights and tours for students and under-26s, though other customers are welcome. Experts on New Zealand travel with branches in major Kiwi cities. Trailfinders UK T 020/7628 7628, W www .trailﬁnders.com, Republic of Ireland T 021/464 8877, W www.trailﬁnders.ie. One of the bestinformed and most efﬁcient agents for independent travellers; produce a very useful quarterly magazine worth scrutinizing for round-the-world routes.

| Getting there

Travel agents

Australia, Wwww.cheapﬂights.com.au). Flight deals, travel agents, plus links to other travel sites. Wwww.cheaptickets.com Discount ﬂight specialists (US only). W www.expedia.com Discount airfares, all-airline search engine and daily deals (US only); for the UK W www.expedia.co.uk; for Canada W www .expedia.ca). Wwww.lastminute.com Offers last-minute holiday packages and ﬂight-only deals (UK only; for Australia, W www.lastminute.com.au). W www.opodo.co.uk User-friendly, UK-only booking site – owned by major airlines such as BA and Air France – with good deals on ﬂights and packages. Wwww.priceline.com Name-your-own-price website that has deals at around forty percent off standard fares. You cannot specify ﬂight times (although you do specify dates) and the tickets are non-refundable and non-transferable (US only; for the UK, Wwww.priceline.co.uk). Wwww.skyauction.com Bookings from the US only. Auctions tickets and travel packages using a “second bid” scheme. The best strategy is to bid the maximum you’re willing to pay, since if you win you’ll pay just enough to beat the runner-up regardless of your maximum bid. Wwww.travelocity.com Destination guides, hot web fares and best deals for car hire, accommodation

BASICS

Emirates Airline T1300/303 777, Wwww .emirates.com Jetstar T13 1538, Wwww.jetstar.com Paciﬁc Blue T13 1645, Wwww.ﬂypaciﬁcblue.com Qantas T 13 1313, Wwww.qantas.com.au Singapore Airlines T13 1011, Wwww .singaporeair.com Thai Airways T1300/651 960, Wwww.thaiair.com

In Australia Backpackers World Travel T1800/67 67 63, W www.backpackersworld.com.au. STA Travel T 13 4782, Wwww.statravel.com.au. Trailﬁnders T1300/780 212, Wwww.trailﬁnders .com.au.

In the US and Canada Educational Travel Center T1-800/747-5551 or 608/256-5551, W www.edtrav.com. Student/youth discount agent. STA Travel US T 1-800/781-4040, W www .statravel.com. Travel Cuts Canada T1-866/246-9762, US T1-800/592-2887; Wwww.travelcuts.com. Canadian student-travel organization.

Online booking agents W www.cheapflights.co.uk Bookings from the UK and Ireland only (for US, Wwww.cheapﬂight .com; for Canada, Wwww.cheapﬂights.ca; for

The Traveller T0800/091 1513, Wwww .thetravelleruk.com. Tour package specialists for both islands.

BASICS

In the US

| Getting there and lodging as well as fares. Provides access to the travel agent system, SABRE, the most comprehensive central reservations system in the US.

Specialist package and tour agents For details of New Zealand-based tour operators see p.66.

In the UK The Adventure Company T0845/450 5314, W www.primeadventures.co.uk. Fifty different itineraries for people wanting to see as much of the country as possible. Contiki T 020/8290 6422, Wwww.contiki.co.uk. Bus tours with itineraries ranging from 3 days around the Bay of Islands (£150) to a 15-day grand tour (around £690 from Auckland), with accommodation and most meals included. Freedom Australia and New Zealand T 0870/742 4000, W www.freedomnz.co.uk. Coach tours or self-drives with all the organizational headaches removed. High Places T0114/275 7500, Wwww .highplaces.co.uk. Trips to NZ specializing in highcountry hiking and cycling. 32

Adventures Abroad T 1-800/665-3998, W www .adventures-abroad.com. Adventure specialists often combining NZ with Australia and Fiji. Collette Vacations US T 1-800/340-5158, Canada T 1-800/468-5955; W www .collettevacations.com. Specialists in Australia and New Zealand travel. Their 19-day fully escorted tour of New Zealand, including trips to glaciers and rainforests, starts at US$2899, plus the cost of international ﬂights. Contiki Holidays T1-888/CONTIKI, Wwww .contiki.com. Specialists in travel for 18–35s. Their several land packages range from a 7-day South Island tour (NZ$949) to a 13-day Grand Adventurer (NZ$1765). Elderhostel T1-800/454-5768, Wwww .elderhostel.org. Educational and activity programmes primarily for senior travellers. In addition to joint Australia/New Zealand packages, there are specialist month-long tours like Land of Geysers and Greenstone (US$6762, plus the cost of international ﬂights), and Middle Earth Locations (13 nights; US$4116). Holidaze Ski Tours T1-800/526-2827 or 732/280-1120, W www.holidaze.com. Short allinclusive ski holidays to NZ. Newmans South Paciﬁc Vacations T1-800/3421956, Wwww.newmansvacations.com. Specialists in New Zealand vacations, with around 25 package options in addition to fully independent tours. REI Adventures T1-800/622-2236, Wwww .rei.com/adventures. REI offer an 11-day hiking and kayaking tour of NZ for around US$3800 (plus international ﬂights). Swain Tours T1-800/22-SWAIN, Wwww .swainaustralia.com. South Paciﬁc specialists offering customized individual and group itineraries including a 12-day NZ highlights trip (US$2820 including domestic ﬂights).

In Australia Contiki Australia T02/9511 2200, Wwww.contiki .com. Frenetic tours for 18- to 35-year-old party animals. Value Tours T1300/ 361 322, W www.valuetours .com.au. Skiing and snowboarding holidays throughout New Zealand, plus airfares, car and campervan rental and accommodation passes.

Internal ﬂights are reasonably priced if booked well in advance, but you’ll appreciate the scenery better by travelling at ground level. The cheapest and easiest, though slowest, way to get around is by using buses (coaches or shuttle buses). The rail service, by contrast, is limited and expensive. For getting off the beaten track having your own wheels is a boon. Rental cars and campervans can be remarkably good value for two or more people but if you are staying in the country for more than a couple of months, it’s more economical to buy a vehicle. New Zealand is renowned for its green countryside and cycling is an excellent way to see the country. Competition on the ferries connecting the North and South islands means passenger fares are good value, though transporting vehicles is pricey. Planes and boats give limited access to offshore islands and the parts of the mainland that remain stubbornly impenetrable by road, though an increase in specialist tours makes getting into the wilds ever easier. Regular long-distance bus, train and plane services are found under “Travel details” at the end of each chapter, with local buses and trains covered in the main text.

By air Many visitors ﬂy into Auckland at the beginning of their trip and out from Christchurch at the end, so don’t touch domestic ﬂights. But those with a tight timetable wanting to hit a few key sights in a short time might be tempted by good-value internal fares, the product of competition. For more details on booking internal ﬂights from your home country, see the box on p.28.

By far the biggest domestic operator is Air New Zealand, serving all the main centres and numerous minor ones (25 destinations in all). The main competition is from Qantas, which serves Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Rotorua and Queenstown. Air New Zealand runs single-class planes with fares that come in three levels, offering lower fares for decreased ﬂexibility: there are fewer low-cost fares at popular times. For example, a one-way ﬂight between Auckland and Christchurch might cost $99 as a Smart Saver, $205 as a Flexi Saver or $333 Fully Flexible. Qantas has a similar system, often with slightly cheaper fares, though it pays to check. Children (aged 2–11 inclusive) typically pay three-quarters of the adult fare, but don’t expect backpacker or senior discounts: the best bet is to book early and be ﬂexible enough to go for the budget options. Other ﬂights you might take are scenic jaunts from Auckland to Great Barrier Island, the hop over Cook Strait and the short trip from Invercargill to Stewart Island.

| Getting around

New Zealand is a relatively small country and getting around is easy, with some form of public transport going to most destinations, though sometimes limited to one or two services per day. Most out-of-the-way places are accessible with will, ﬂexibility and a little ingenuity.

BASICS

Getting around

Air companies Air New Zealand T0800/737 000, Wwww.airnz .co.nz. Great Barrier Airlines & Air Coromandel T0800/900 600, Wwww.greatbarrierairlines .co.nz. Flights between Auckland, Coromandel and Great Barrier Island. Great Barrier Xpress & Mountain Air T0800/222 123, Wwww.mountainair.co.nz. Flights between Auckland, Whangarei and Great Barrier Island. Qantas T0800/808 767, Wwww.qantas.co.nz. Soundsair T0800/505 005, W www.soundsair .co.nz. Small planes across Cook Strait. Stewart Island Flights T03/218 9129, Wwww .stewartislandﬂights.com. Scheduled services between Invercargill and Stewart Island.

Mileage chart All distances in km

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Auckland

449 Gisborne

127 394 Hamilton

| Getting around

Blenheim 321 Christchurch 683 361 Dunedin 520 408 570 331 255 565 666 554 424 899 578 217 1092 771 410 651 330 319 117 417 799 29 350 711 808 487 281 971 650 289 749 428 276 265 336 670

325 823 452 Kaitaia

357 585 231 681 412 New Plymouth

Franz Josef 189 Greymouth 146 335 Haast 542 731 396 660 849 514 506 524 360 485 296 631 549 360 695 365 554 219 539 728 393 294 483 148 294 105 440

By bus You can get most places on long-distance buses (sometimes called “coaches”) and smaller shuttle buses, which essentially offer the same service but are more likely to drop you off and pick up at hotels, hostels and the like. Services are generally reliable and reasonably comfortable, and stiff competition keeps prices competitive. The larger buses are usually air-conditioned, and some have toilets, though all services stop every couple of hours, at wayside tearooms and points of interest along the way. Most of your fellow passengers are likely to be visitors to New Zealand so drivers usually give a commentary, the quality of which varies enormously.

InterCity and Newmans

423 216 296 748 Napier

Easily the biggest operator, InterCity runs high-quality full-size buses all over the country. They operate closely with Newmans, who pitch themselves as slightly more luxurious and target sightseeing excursions. In practice, the two companies share a timetable and InterCity passes can often be used on Newmans buses: when we refer to InterCity we are generally

241 739 368 108 661 597 Pahla (Bay of Islands)

Invercargill 280 445 1016 928 189 159 248 836

referring to services run collectively by InterCity and Newmans. Standard one-way fares are: Auckland to Rotorua $46, Auckland to Wellington $110, Picton to Christchurch $52, Christchurch to Queenstown $66, Queenstown to Fox Glacier $110 and Fox Glacier to Nelson $107. Prices often plummet during off-peak periods and a range of discounted fares is available, with an advance-purchase Saver fare yielding a twenty-ﬁve percent discount and a Super Saver ﬁfty percent. Extreme Saver and Web Saver fares are also available: book early for the best prices. YHA, VIP and BBH cardholders get ﬁfteen percent discounts off Standard rates but you’ll often ﬁnd cheaper deals by chasing down the various Saver fares. InterCity also offers numerous ﬁxed-route passes such as the Bay of Islands Pass around southern Northland ($105), the Paciﬁc Coast Highway Pass between Auckland and Wellington ($209), the West Coast Passport from Picton to Queenstown ($169), and the Total NZ Experience, loosely covering both islands ($729). Kids aged 2–11 travel for two-thirds the adult fare.

Milford Sound 578 Mount Cook 1145 747 Nelson 1121 680 113 307 271 850 121 426 1024 366 212 779 954 629 230

206 298 107 531 299 308 445 415 86 156 Tauranga

202 445 75 524 307 173 440 342 166 163 151 Waitomo

457 468 331 779 252 160 697 74 309 229 439 273 Wanganui

Picton 837 Queenstown 1000 166 Te Anau 778 71 245 294 659 823

Other buses A host of bus and shuttle bus companies compete directly with InterCity/Newmans on the main routes and ﬁll in the gaps around the country (especially in the South Island), often linking with the services of the major operators to take you off the beaten track. Generally they cost less (sometimes appreciably) and are often more obliging when it comes to drop-offs and pick-ups, though seldom as comfortable over long distances. We’ve listed a number of the major operators below, but there are many more mentioned in the appropriate sections of the Guide. Ofﬁcial (i-SITE) visitor centres carry timetables of companies operating in their area, so you can compare frequencies and prices. Fare structures are generally straightforward, with ﬁxed prices and no complicated Savers and discounts. Typical examples include: Auckland to Rotorua $50; Picton to Christchurch $40; Christchurch to Queenstown $50.

Main bus companies Atomic Shuttles T03/349 0697, Wwww .atomictravel.co.nz. Major long-distance bus operator in the South Island.

658 538 532 983 323 355 898 145 460 380 545 473 195 Wellington

| Getting around

280 332 153 602 143 296 518 259 80 Taupo

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537 234 394 287 411 107 861 558 178 225 234 299 777 474 Palmerston 339 North Rotorua

Wanaka 588 Westport

Guthreys Express T0800/732 528, W www .guthreys.co.nz. Mostly covering the northern half of the North Island. InterCity & Newmans Auckland T 09/623 1503, Wellington T 04/385 0520, Christchurch T 03/365 1113, Dunedin T 03/471 7143, Queenstown T 03/441 1344, W www .intercitycoach.co.nz & www.newmanscoach .co.nz. Long-distance buses nationwide. Naked Bus T0900/62533; Wwww.nakedbus .com. Cheap, frill-free trips on both islands. Northliner Express T09/623 1503, Wwww .northliner.co.nz. Bus travel around Northland, owned by InterCity. Southern Link/K Bus T03/358 8355, W www .southernlinkcoaches.co.nz. Routes all over the South Island. Wanaka Connexions T0800/244 844, Wwww .time2.co.nz. Linking Dunedin, Queenstown and Wanaka.

By train Not much is left of New Zealand’s passenger train service besides commuter train services in Wellington and Auckland and a few intercity trains. The longdistance services that do exist are scenic runs, primarily used by tourists; trains are so slow that they have ceased to be practical transport for most New

Backpacker buses BASICS

| 36

One of the cheapest ways to cover a lot of ground is on a backpacker bus, which combines some of the ﬂexibility of independent travel with the convenience of a tour. You typically purchase a ticket for a ﬁxed route (usually valid for twelve months), and then take it at your own pace. You can either stick with the one bus for the entire journey with nights spent at various towns along the route, or stop off longer in places and hop on a later bus. During peak times, note that some buses may be full, so you’ll need to plan onward travel several days in advance. Most companies operate year-round, though services are reduced in winter. The emphasis is on experiencing the country rather than travelling from one town to the next, so you’ll be stopping off to bungy jump, hike or somesuch. Being part of a group of forty rowdy backpackers arriving at some idyllic spot isn’t everyone’s idea of a good time and, by using assorted public transport, it is often just as cheap to make your own way around New Zealand. But if you want almost everything organized for you, and a ready-made bunch of like-minded fellow travellers this sort of travel has undeniable appeal. It can be 5–10 percent cheaper to book before you arrive in New Zealand, as some deals are simply not available once you arrive: check the websites or with your travel agent. You might also save a few dollars by being a YHA, VIP, BBH or ISIC cardholder. Tickets don’t generally cover accommodation, activities (although these are often discounted), side trips, food or travel between the North and South islands. The best known are the Kiwi Experience (T09/366 9830, Wwww.kiwiexperience .com), who have a largely deserved reputation for attracting high-spirited revellers. They offer a huge array of passes, from a trip to Cape Reinga starting in Auckland (min 3 days; $178) to the Full Monty (min 31 days; $1480). The prime contender for the backpacker bus crown is Magic Travellers Network (Auckland T 09/358 5600, Wwww.magicbus.co.nz), whose magic buses offer a pretty comprehensive selection of trips and guarantee a seat if you book at least 24hr in advance. They work in with the YHA, offering substantial discounts to YHA cardholders, and target more independent-minded travellers. Their Spirit of New Zealand pass is valid for a year and covers the country in 23 travel days ($1035), while the Northern Discovery heads from Auckland to Rotorua, Taupo, Napier, Wellington and Waitomo before returning to Auckland for just $358. Stray (NZ T 09/309 8772; W www.straytravel.com), aims to get further off the beaten track with more stops away from the main tourist honeypots. Trips typically include: a South Island circuit (min 16 days; $835); a basic North Island circuit (min 7 days; $450); and the whole country (min 31 days; $1614). There’s an altogether more free-spirited approach to Flying Kiwi Wilderness Expeditions (T 03/547 0171 & 0800/693 296, W www.ﬂyingkiwi.com), which get off the beaten track and eschew city hostels in favour of camping out. Converted buses are equipped with bikes, canoes, windsurfers, kitchen, awning, fridge, beds, tents and hot shower, and everyone mucks in with the cooking and the dishes. Trips operate all year and once on board you stick with the same group. Options range from the Northern Express from Wellington to Auckland via Taupo (2 days; $168, plus $32 food and camp fund) to a full NZ tour (27 days; $1795, plus $768 food and camp fund). For those interested in multi-day tours and adventure activities and not the ﬂashthrough, one-day-only approach of the backpacker buses check out “Outdoor activities” (p.66), where more intimate and specialized excursions are listed. Women-only tours are included in “Travel essentials” (see p.87).

| Getting around

through Kaikoura (10am) and Blenheim (11.45pm) to Picton (12.15pm). It then returns from Picton (1pm) through Blenheim (1.30pm), and Kaikoura (3.30pm) to Christchurch (6.20pm). The ﬁnest rail journey in New Zealand is the TranzAlpine between Christchurch and Greymouth on the West Coast – it is covered in detail on p.585. Fares are higher than the comparable bus tickets but with discounts and the use of a travel pass (see below), travelling is still reasonably good value. Most people get the standard or Flexi fare, which gives a discount in return for advance booking, limited availability and only a ﬁfty percent refund if cancelled after the departure time. Seniors (60 and over) can get a thirty percent discount on standard fares, though most folk do better by going for a Scenic Rail Pass (see box below) Blind and some disabled travellers (see p.86) are entitled to a forty percent discount on the standard fare. Sample fares include: Auckland to Wellington (Flexi Fare $119, one way); Picton to Christchurch (Standard $104, one way); Christchurch to Greymouth (Standard $139 one way, $194 return). Apart from a couple of short-run steam trains, the only other passenger trains are along the Taieri Gorge Railway (see p.682) between Dunedin and Middlemarch, again run almost entirely for the beneﬁt of tourists.

BASICS

Zealanders. Minimal investment in infrastructure and rolling stock is beginning to have an effect on standards, but railway travel remains a pleasant experience. Trains have reclining seats, a buffet car with reasonable, good-value food, beer, panoramic windows, and occasionally a glass-backed observation carriage. You also get a sporadic and not particularly diverting commentary. A ticket guarantees a seat: passengers check in on the platform before boarding and bags are carried in a luggage van. Long-distance trains are all run by Tranz Scenic (T 04/495 0775 & 0800/872 467, W www.tranzscenic.co.nz), which operates three passenger routes. The longest is the Overlander between Auckland and Wellington, passing through some of the more rural areas of the North Island as well as the scenic Central Plateau with its volcanic peaks. Interesting stops along the way include Te Awamutu, Te Kuiti (where the train is met by a shuttle bus to Waitomo Caves) and National Park (with access to Mount Ruapehu and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing). The service leaves both Auckland and Wellington daily around 7.35am and reaches its destination around 7.20pm. In the South Island, the TranzCoastal runs between Christchurch and Picton, a pretty run sometimes hugging the coast. It leaves Christchurch at 7am for the run up

Travel passes If you’re doing a lot of travelling by bus and train, there are savings to be made with travel passes. Tranz Scenic’s Scenic Rail Pass (T0800/872 467, Wwww .transzscenic.co.nz) gives unlimited travel on Tranz Scenic trains for a week ($309, children $205). The pass also includes one Interislander ferry passage between the North and South islands. InterCity/Newmans offer their own Flexi-Pass, allowing you buy bus travel by the hour – the more hours you buy the better the savings. You would typically need 45 hours ($454) to cover one of the main islands, more like 60 hours ($585) for a full tour, and if that’s not enough you can top-up your pass with, say, 10 hours ($110). The Flexi-Pass is valid for 12 months and journeys can be booked online or by freecalling T0800/222 146. Travellers wanting to move around pretty quickly might be better off with one of the New Zealand Travel Passes (T0800/339966, Wwww .travelpass.co.nz). The 2-in-One travel pass has various options from 5 days of travel in a year ($399) to 15 days in a year ($871) and includes a Cook Strait ferry crossing. Slightly more expensive variants also throw in a train journey and a domestic ﬂight. Finally, the backpacker tour buses (see p.36) offer lower prices in return for older buses and – in some cases – a more boisterous time.

BASICS

| Getting around By car

For maximum ﬂexibility, it’s hard to beat driving around New Zealand: you’ll be able to get to places beyond the reach of public transport and to set your own timetable. With the freedom to camp or stay in cheaper places away from town centres this is a very economical option for two or more people, though it has a greater environmental cost. In order to drive in New Zealand you need a valid licence from your home country or an International Driver’s Licence (available from your national motoring organization). These are valid for up to a year in New Zealand and you must always carry your licence when driving. In New Zealand you drive on the left and will ﬁnd road rules similar to those in the UK, Australia and the US. The one variation peculiar to New Zealand is that you must give way to all trafﬁc crossing or coming from your right; this means that if you are turning left and another car coming from the opposite direction wants to turn right into the same side road, you must let them go ﬁrst. All occupants must wear seatbelts and

drivers must park in the same direction as that in which they are travelling; parking facing oncoming trafﬁc is illegal. The speed limit for the open road is 100km per hr, reduced to 70km per hr or 50km per hr in built-up areas. Speeding ﬁnes start at $30 and rapidly increase as the degree of transgression (speed over the limit) increases. Some drivers ﬂash their headlights at oncoming cars to warn of lurking police patrols but the advent of hidden cameras makes this pointless. Drink driving has traditionally been a problem in New Zealand: as part of a campaign to cut the death-toll, random breath tests have been introduced and offenders are dealt with severely. Road conditions are generally good and trafﬁc is relatively light except around Auckland and at rush hour in Wellington. Most roads are sealed (paved), although a few have a metalled surface composed of an aggregate of loose chippings. Clearly marked on most maps, these are slower to drive along, prone to wash-outs and landslides after heavy rain, and demand considerably more care and attention from the driver. Some rental companies prohibit the use of their cars on the worst metalled roads – typically those at Skippers Canyon and around the northern tip of Coromandel Peninsula. Always check conditions locally before setting off on these routes. Other hazards include one-lane bridges: a sign before the bridge will indicate who has right of way, and on longer examples there’ll be a passing place halfway across. Even on relatively major roads you might also come across ﬂocks of sheep, slow-moving farm equipment and monstrous logging trucks, all made more of a nuisance by the paucity of passing lanes. Unleaded and super unleaded petrol and diesel are available in New Zealand and in larger towns petrol stations are open 24hr. In smaller towns, they may close after 8pm, so be sure to ﬁll up for long evening or night journeys. At publication, prices were hovering around $1.75 a litre for unleaded, $1.85 for super unleaded, and $1.25 for diesel, with higher prices in more out-of-theway places. If you’re driving your own vehicle, check if the New Zealand Automobile Association

Visitors driving around New Zealand typically pick up a car in Auckland, tour the North Island to Wellington where they leave the ﬁrst vehicle, cross Cook Strait, pick up a second car in Picton, then drive around the South Island dropping off the car in Christchurch. The whole thing can be done in reverse, and may work out cheaper as there are savings in going against the ﬂow. New Zealand is awash with companies wanting to rent you a car. You’ll even see deals for under $30 a day, though only for older, small cars rented for over a month in winter (June–Aug). Demand is high over the main summer season and prices rise accordingly. Most of the major international companies – Avis, Budget, Hertz, National, Thrifty, etc – are represented here and offer good deals for virtually new cars. Nationwide ﬁrms offer cheaper rates partly by minimizing overheads and offering older (but perfectly serviceable) vehicles. You may ﬁnd even cheaper deals with cut-rate local companies, which are ﬁne for short stints, though for general touring nationwide companies are probably the best bet. Their infrastructure helps when it comes to crossing between the North and South islands (see p.460) and they typically offer free breakdown assistance. In peak season it usually pays to have a car booked in advance. At quieter times you can often pick up something cheaper once you arrive; and in winter (except in ski areas) you can almost name your price. Provided your rental period is four days or more the deal will be for unlimited

| Getting around

Car rental

kilometres. The rates quoted below are for summer season assuming a two-week rental period, but don’t be afraid to haggle at any time. As a general rule, Ace, Apex, Omega and Pegasus offer reasonably new cars at moderate prices, while the rest of the NZ companies listed below try desperately to undercut each other and offer low prices. Based on a two-week rental in summer, for two people a small car (1.3–1.8 litre) might cost $50–70 a day from the majors, $30–60 from national ﬁrms. For those requiring a little more comfort, or needing to ﬁt in the kids, a medium-sized car (2–3 litre) would be more appropriate. This might cost $80–90 from the majors and $40–80 from national companies. Unless you’re here in winter and want to get up to the ski-ﬁelds without tyre chains you don’t really need a 4WD, which generally costs $90–130 a day; you’ll be better off renting one for short trips in speciﬁc areas. If you are renting for several weeks, there is often no drop-off fee for leaving the vehicle somewhere other than where you picked it up. For shorter rental periods you may be charged $150–300, though if you’re

BASICS

(W www.nzaa.co.nz) has reciprocal rights with motoring organizations from your country to see if you qualify for their cover; otherwise, you can join as an overseas visitor. Apart from a free 24-hour emergency breakdown service (T 0800/500 222) – excluding vehicles bogged on beaches – membership entitles you to free maps, accommodation guides and legal assistance, discounts on some rental cars and accommodation, plus access to insurance and pre-purchase vehicle inspection services.

BASICS

| Getting around

travelling south to north, you may be able to sweet-talk your way out of drop-off charges. At different times in the season Wellington, Picton, Christchurch and Queenstown have a glut of cars that are needed elsewhere, and companies will offer relocation deals. Look at hostel notice boards, call the ﬁrms listed below or phone around companies listed under “Rental Cars” in the Yellow Pages. Some companies want quick delivery, while others will allow you to spend a few more days en route for a reduced rental rate. Before signing on the dotted line you must have a full, clean driver’s licence and be over 21; drivers under 25 often pay more for insurance. In most cases insurance is included in the quoted cost but you are liable for any windscreen damage and the ﬁrst $1000 of any damage. With some of the cheaper companies this excess can be as much as $3000 if the accident is your fault. This can usually be reduced to $250 or zero by paying an additional $10–20 a day Collision Damage Waiver. Usually before giving you a car rental companies take a credit-card imprint or a cash bond from you for $1000. If you have an accident, the bond is used to pay for any damage: in some cases you can pay anything up to the value of the bond; in others you pay the entire bond no matter how slight the damage. Read the small print, look around the car for any visible defects, so you won’t end up being charged for someone else’s mistakes, and check whether there are any restrictions on driving along certain roads.

New Zealand car rental agencies

A2B Rentals T0871/720 2035 & 0800/616 888, W www.a2b-car-rental.co.nz. Ace Rental Cars T09/303 3112 & 0800/502 277, W www.acerentalcars.co.nz. Apex T 03/379 6897 & 0800/939 597, Wwww .apexrentals.co.nz. Bargain Rental Cars T09/444 4573 & 0800/566 300 Wwww.bargainrentals.co.nz. Omega T 09/377 5573 & 0800/525 210, W www .omegarentals.com. Pegasus T 03/548 2852 & 0800/803 580, W www.rentalcars.co.nz.

Campervan rental Throughout the summer, New Zealand roads seem clogged with campervans (small motor homes). Almost all are driven by foreign visitors who rent them for a few weeks and drive around the country staying in campsites and sneaking the odd free night in wayside rest areas. This is not strictly legal, but you’re unlikely to be hassled in isolated spots – do, however, make an effort to be considerate with your waste. A small campervan is generally suitable for two adults and perhaps a couple of kids and comes with a fold-down bed and compact kitchen. Larger models sleep four or more and often have a shower and toilet. Medium to large campervan rentals (based on a 3-week rental) average about $140–280 a day during the high season (Dec–Feb), dropping a little for a couple of months either side and plummeting to $50–100 in winter. The two biggest rental ﬁrms are Maui and Britz (effectively the same company), but a few smaller ﬁrms (listed above) offer cheaper rates, saving 20–30 percent. Small vans are often quite cramped and aimed at backpackers prepared to sacriﬁce comfort to save money. These typically cost $60–95 a day during summer, $60–75 in the shoulder season and $45–55 in the depths of winter. The current trend is for wildly painted vans, often with arcane or quirky comments grafﬁtied on them: witness Escape Rentals and Wicked Campers. Other good bets are the distinctive orange Spaceships that have been imaginatively converted to suit two adults, possibly more if you’re very friendly. For an affordable and slightly offbeat experience go for a restored, classic VW campervan (possibly with a pop-top), from Auckland-based Kiwi Kombis, who charge $130–230 a day, depending on dates and van. For all campervans there’s usually a minimum rental period of 5–7 days, but you get unlimited kilometres, a kitchen kit and perhaps airport transfer. Insurance is often included but you may be liable for the ﬁrst $1000–5000 and you should seriously consider paying extra fees to get this

Adventure NZ T 09/276 7100, UK T0800/123 555; Wwww.nzmotorhomes.co.nz. Backpacker Campervans T09/275 0200 & 0800/422 267, Wwww.backpackercampervans .com. Britz T09/275 9090 & 0800/831 900, W www .britz.com. Escape T0800/216 171, Wwww.escaperentals .co.nz. Eurocampers T09/422 2571 & 0800/489 226, W www.eurocampers.co.nz. Freedom Campers T03/259 4730 & 0800/325 939, Wwww.freedomcampers.co.nz. Kea Campers T09/441 7833 & 0800/520 052, W www.keacampers.com. Maui T 09/275 3013 & 0800/651 080, Wwww .maui-rentals.com.

Small vans and conversions Backpackers Transport T09/475 9870 & 0800/226 769, Wwww.backpackernz.co.nz. Escape T021/288 8372 & 0800/216 171, W www.escaperentals.co.nz. Ezy T09/734 4360 & 0800/399 736, Wwww .ezy.co.nz. Kiwi Kombis T09/533 9335, W www.kiwikombis .com. Spaceships T09/309 8777 & 0800/772 237, W www.spaceships.tv. Wicked Campers T0800/246 870, W www .wickedcampers.com.au.

Buying a used vehicle Buying a used vehicle can be cost-effective if you are staying in the country for more than a couple of months and may even be worthwhile for shorter periods. Reselling can recoup enough of the price to make it cheaper than using public transport or renting. Of course, if you buy cheap there’s also a greater risk of breakdowns and expensive repairs. The

| Getting around

Campervan rentals: medium to large

majority of people buy cars in Auckland and then try to sell them in Christchurch, so there’s something to be said for buying in Christchurch where you’ll often have more choice and a better bargaining position. Some of the best deals are found on backpacker hostel noticeboards where older cars and vans are typically offered for $500–4000. Realistically you can expect to pay upwards of $2500 for something halfdecent. It may not look pretty and with a private sale there’s no guarantee the vehicle will make yet another trip around the country, but you might get an added bonus like camping gear thrown in with the car (or offered at a snip). Alternatively, trawl the used car ads in local papers for likely candidates. For a little more peace of mind, buy from a dealership. There are plenty all over the country, especially in Auckland, Christchurch and Wellington. Prices begin at around $5000 and some yards offer a buy-back service, usually paying about ﬁfty percent of the purchase price. If you’re conﬁdent of your ability to spot a lemon, you can try to pick up a cheap car at an auction; they’re held weekly in Auckland (see listings p.135), and Christchurch and are advertised in the local press. Be aware that you’ll usually be liable for the buyer’s premium of ten percent over your bid. Before you commit yourself, consult the vehicle ownership section of the NZ Land Transport Safety Authority website (W www .ltsa.govt.nz/vehicle-ownership), which has good advice on buying and the pitfalls. The Buying a used car fact sheet (Wwww.ltsa .govt.nz/factsheets/41.html) is particularly helpful. Unless you really know your big end from your steering column you’ll want to arrange a mobile vehicle inspection, either from the AA (T 0800/500 333, W www.aa.co.nz; members $105, non-members $130 at an inspection centre or members $120, nonmembers $145 using the mobile service), or the equally competitive Car Inspection Services (T 0800/500 800 in Auckland and Wellington, Wwww.carinspections.co.nz). The inspection may give you enough ammunition to negotiate a price reduction. Finally, before you close a private sale, call

BASICS

liability reduced. Most companies have a supply of tents, camping kits, outdoor chairs and tables that can be rented for a few dollars. No special licence is required to drive a campervan, but some caution is needed, especially in high winds and when climbing hills and going around tight corners. Finally, have some consideration for other road users and pull over to let folk pass wherever possible.

BASICS

| Getting around

AA LemonCheck (T0800/500 333, Wwww .aalemoncheck.co.nz), who will ﬁll you in on registration history, possible odometer tampering and any debts on the vehicle ($20 for members, $25 for non-members). Before they’re allowed on the road, all vehicles must have a Warrant of Fitness (WOF), which is a test of its mechanical worthiness and safety. WOFs are carried out and issued by speciﬁed garages and testing stations and last for a year if the vehicle is less than six years old, or six months if older. Check the expiry date, as the test must have been carried out no more than one month before sale. The vehicle should also have a current vehicle licence which must be renewed before it expires (6 months $95, 12 months $184 for petrol driven, private vehicles): post ofﬁces and AA ofﬁces are the most convenient for this though you can also do it online at Wwww.transact.landtransport .govt.nz. You transfer ownership with a form (ﬁlled in by buyer and seller) at the post ofﬁce: the licence plates stay with the vehicle. Next you’ll need insurance, either Comprehensive (which covers your vehicle and any other damaged vehicles) or Third Party, Fire & Theft (which covers your own vehicle against ﬁre and theft, but only pays out on damage to other vehicles in case of an accident). There are dozens of companies listed under “Insurance Companies” in the Yellow Pages: shop around as prices vary widely, but expect to pay, a minimum of $400 for six months’ Third Party, Fire & Theft cover.

By motorbike

Visitors from most countries can ride in New Zealand with their normal licence, though it (or your international licence) must specify motorbikes. Helmets are compulsory, and you’ll need to be prepared to ride on gravel roads from time to time. Take it easy at ﬁrst if you’re not used to loose surfaces. Few people bring their own bike but bike rental is available from the companies running guided bike tours (see p.67). It isn’t cheap, and for a 650cc machine in summer you can expect to pay $160–200 a day. Bike Adventure New Zealand (T 027/498 8287 & 0800/498 600, W www.banz.co.nz) offers 600cc enduro machines for $95 a day for

short periods, dropping to $50 a day for ten weeks. Alternatively, try the same channels as for “Buying a used vehicle” on p.41.

Motorbike tours The obvious alternative is an organized tour, self-guided or guided, usually incorporating top of the range accommodation, restaurants and bikes. Adventure New Zealand Motorcycle Tours & Rentals T03/548 5787 & 0800/848 6337, W www.gotournz.com. Nelson-based company providing upmarket, small-group guided or selfguided tours around the South Island, with itineraries tweaked to suit and a luxury coach in your wake. Rates range from $10,200 for a standard ten-day trip on a relatively modest bike to $24,700 for a full 21-day tour on a luxury bike. New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals & Tours T0800/692 453, UK freephone T 0800/917 3941, US freephone T1-866/490-7940; Wwww .nzbike.com. Another specialist top-end company, offering guided all-inclusive tours staying in quality accommodation, semi-guided tours and bike rental. A fully guided 13-day tour will set you back $5975. Te Waipounamu Motorcycle Hire & Tours T03/372 3537, W www.motorcycle-hire.co.nz. These folk do upscale tours round the bottom of the South Island and bike rentals from Harley to Beamer (7 days on a Harley will cost $290 per day).

Cycling If you have bags of time, cycling is an excellent way of getting around. Distances aren’t enormous, the weather is generally benign, trafﬁc is usually light, and the countryside is gorgeous. Everywhere you go you’ll ﬁnd hostels and campsites well set up for campers but also equipped with rooms and cabins for when the weather really sucks. But there are downsides. New Zealand’s road network is skeletal, so in many places you’ll ﬁnd yourself riding on main roads or unsealed minor roads. You’ll also experience a fair bit of rain and have to climb quite a lot of hills. Contrary to what you might think, cycling the South Island is an easier proposition than the North Island. The South Island’s alpine backbone presents virtually the only geographical barrier, while the eastern twothirds of the island comprise a ﬂat plain. In the North Island you can barely go 10km

Since the vast majority of riding will be on sealed roads with only relatively short sections of gravel, it is perfectly reasonable (and more efﬁcient) to get around New Zealand on a touring bike. But fashion dictates most people use a mountain bike ﬁtted with fat but relatively smooth tyres. On long trips to New Zealand it’s cheaper to bring your own bike, set up to your liking before you leave home. Most international airlines simply count bikes as a piece of luggage and don’t incur any extra cost as long as you don’t exceed your baggage limit. However, they do require you use a bike bag or box or at the very least remove pedals and handlebars and wrap the chain. Some airlines will sell you a cardboard bike box at the airport, though your friendly local bike dealer may give you one free. Soft bags are probably the most convenient (they’re easy to carry on the bike once you arrive), but if you are ﬂying out from the same city you arrive in you can often store hardshell containers (free or for a small fee) at the backpacker hostel where you spend your ﬁrst and last nights: call around. Renting bikes for more than the odd day can be an expensive option, costing anything from $25–45 a day, depending on whether you want a bike with little more than pedals and brakes, a tourer or a state-of-the-art mountain bike. Specialist cycle shops do economical monthly rental for around $200– 250 for a touring bike and $300 or more for a full-suspension superbike. For long-distance cycle touring, it’s generally cheaper to buy a bike. You’re probably looking at paying at least $1000 to

| Getting around

The bike

get fully kitted out with new equipment, but it is worth checking hostel noticeboards for secondhand bikes (under $500 is a reasonable deal), often accompanied by extras like wet-weather gear, lights, a helmet and a pump. Some cycle shops offer buyback deals, where you buy at full price and they guarantee to refund about ﬁfty percent of the purchase price at the end of your trip. Contact Adventure Cycles, 1 Laurie Ave, Parnell (T 09/309 5566 & 0800/940 2453, W w w w. a d v e n t u r e - a u c k l a n d . c o . n z / advcychm.html), in Auckland. If you’re bringing your own bike, the same folk will let you store the bike box you transported your machine in, help you organize an emergency package of spare parts and extra clothing to be forwarded at your request, and give your bike a once-over before you set off, all for around $35. The best bet for servicing and spares in Christchurch is Laurie Dawe Cycles, 838 Colombo St (T 021/233 4405, W www.lauriedawecycles.co.nz).

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without encountering signiﬁcant hills – and you have to contend with a great deal more trafﬁc, including intimidating logging trucks. New Zealand law requires all cyclists to wear a helmet. Some ﬁtness is important, but distances don’t have to be great and you can take things at your own pace. If you’d rather go with a guided group, see our recommendations on p.67. For more information get the Pedallers’ Paradise guides (W www.paradise-press .co.nz) or Bruce Ringer’s New Zealand by Bike (see Contexts, p.921).

Transporting bikes Lethargy, boredom, breakdowns or simply a need to shift your bike between islands mean you’ll need to use public transport at some point. You can usually hoick your bike onto a bus (generally $10–15) or train ($10– 20 per journey) though space is often limited so book well in advance. Crossing Cook Strait, the Interislander and Blue Bridge ferries charge $10–15. Bikes usually travel free on buses, trains and ferries if packed in a bike bag and treated as ordinary luggage. Air New Zealand will ﬂy your bike free if it is within your baggage allowance; Qantas will charge you at their normal excess baggage rate, though that doesn’t cut into your free allowance.

Hitching and organized rides Although many travellers enthuse about hitching in New Zealand – and it does enjoy a reputation of relative safety – the ofﬁcial advice is don’t. Sadly, New Zealand has its share of unpleasant individuals and, with an extensive network of affordable transport and tours at your disposal, there’s no reason to take unnecessary risks.

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| Accommodation

However, if you are determined to work those thumbs then follow a few rules: hitch in pairs (no guarantee of avoiding trouble but safer than going solo); trust your instincts – there will always be another car; ask the driver where they are going, rather than telling them where you’re headed; and keep your gear with you so you can make a quick getaway. Finding the best hitching spots around the country is generally a matter of common sense, or common knowledge on the travellers’ grapevine. Some town and city hostels drop their guests at hitching spots as a matter of course. Pick a spot where you can be clearly seen and drivers can stop safely. It is generally safer to organize a ride before you set off, though this still demands some trust on both sides. Hostel notice boards are the best bet, and if no one seems

to be going where you want to go, stick up your own notice. Usually you’ll be expected to share petrol costs.

By ferry The ferries you’re most likely to use are vehicle-carrying services plying Cook Strait between Wellington on the North Island and Picton on the South Island. Details are given in the “Crossing Cook Strait” box on p.460. Passenger ferries link Bluff, in the south of the South Island, to Stewart Island, and both vehicle and passenger ferries connect Auckland with the Hauraki Gulf islands, principally Waiheke, Rangitoto and Great Barrier. Information about these short trips is included in our accounts of Invercargill and Auckland. Most visitors spend more boat time on cruises – whale watching, dolphin swimming, sightseeing – or water taxis.

Accommodation Accommodation will take up a fair chunk of your money while in New Zealand, but the good news is that standards across all categories are excellent. Almost every town has a motel or hostel of some description, so ﬁnding accommodation is seldom a problem – though it’s essential to book in advance during high summer (from Christmas through to the end of January) and advisable a month or two either side.

Kiwis travel widely at home, most choosing to self-cater at the country’s huge number of well-equipped campsites (aka motor camps or holiday parks) and motels, shunning hotels, which cater mainly to package holidaymakers and the business community. The range of B&Bs, homestays, farmstays and lodges form an appealing alternative, covering the whole spectrum from a room in someone’s suburban home to pampered luxury in a country mansion. Since the mid-1980s, New Zealand has pioneered the backpacker hostel, a less-regimented alternative to traditional

YHAs, which have transformed themselves dramatically to compete. Found all over the country, hostels offer superb value to budget travellers. Wherever you stay, you can expect unstinting hospitality and a truckload of valuable advice on local activities and onward travel. We’ve included a wide selection of New Zealand’s best accommodation throughout the book, and more detail can be gleaned from specialist accommodation guides. Many places are now accredited using the nationwide Qualmark system (W www .qualmark.co.nz), which grades different

Accommodation price codes

4 $100–129 5 $130–159 6 $160–199

types of accommodation – exclusive, hotel, self-contained, guest and hosted, holiday parks and backpackers – from one to ﬁve stars. Most fall between three stars (very good) and four plus (at the top end of excellent), but there is no way of knowing whether, for example, a 4-star backpacker is superior to rooms at a 5-star holiday park. Many places choose not to join the system, but may be just as good or better.

Useful accommodation guides and websites AA Accommodation Guide Wwww.aatravel .co.nz. Annual advertising-based guide for the whole country; concentrates on motels and holiday parks but has some coverage of hotels and lodges. Available free from most motels and i-SITE ofﬁces. The Bed & Breakfast Book Wwww.bnb.co.nz. Annually updated listing of member B&Bs, boutique lodges, homestays and farmstays, covering around 1000 places all over New Zealand. Entries are submitted by the owners, so it’s a good idea to read between the lines. Available from bookshops, visitor centres and many of the places listed in the book; nominally $20 (plus $10 for international postage) but often much cheaper. Charming Bed & Breakfast W www.bnbnz .com. Glossy B&B guide concentrating on midrange places. Available through their website for the price of postage and can often be picked up free at B&Bs. Friars’ Guide Wwww.friars.co.nz. An advertisingbased annual guide with fairly comprehensive coverage of the country’s more upmarket B&Bs and boutique lodges. Available ($35) from NZ bookshops and vendors listed on their website.

7 $200–249 8 $250–349 9 over $350

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1 less than $50 per room 2 $50–69 3 $70–99

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Accommodation listed in this guide has been categorized into one of nine price bands. The rates quoted represent the cheapest available double or twin room in high season, though we have generally ignored the short spike in prices around Christmas and New Year. Single rooms usually cost only ten to twenty percent less than doubles or twins In hostels and campsites where individual dorm beds are available, we have given the full price assuming no discount cards. YHA members get a $3 discount at full YHAs, BBH members typically save $3 (sometimes more) at BBH-afﬁliated establishments and VIP cardholders save $1 a night. DOC hut and camping fees are also per person, unless otherwise stated. Prices normally include Goods and Services Tax (GST), as do our codes.

House rental Many Kiwis own a holiday home (aka bach or crib) which they rent out when they’re not using them. Many are in superb locations next to beaches but you’ll often have to agree to a minimum stay (perhaps four nights). Rates vary enormously, peaking around Christmas (when availability is very low) and plummeting in winter. Sites to check out include Wwww.bookabach.co.nz and Wwww .holidayhouses.co.nz.

Hotels and motels In New Zealand, hotel is a term frequently used to describe old-style pubs, which were once legally obliged to provide rooms for drinkers to recuperate from their excesses. Many no longer provide accommodation, but some have transformed themselves into backpacker hostels, while others are dedicated to preserving the tradition. At their best, such hotels (3 –4 ) offer comfortable rooms in characterful, historic buildings, though just as often lodgings are rudimentary. Hotel bars are frequently at the centre of small-town life and, at weekends in particular, they can be pretty raucous; you may ﬁnd a budget room at a hostel a better bet. In the cities and major resorts, you’ll also come across hotels in the conventional sense, predominantly business- or tour busoriented places (6 –9 ) with all the trappings. Priced accordingly, they’re seldom good value, though at quiet times and weekends there can be substantial discounts; it’s always worth asking. Most Kiwi families on the move prefer the astonishingly well-equipped motels (4 –6 ),

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| Accommodation

which congregate along the roads running into town, making them more convenient for drivers than for those using trains or buses. They come provided with bed linen, towels, Sky TV, bathroom, a full kitchen and tea and coffee, but are often fairly functional concrete-block places with little to distinguish one from another. Rooms range from all-in-one studios, with beds, kettle, toaster and a microwave, through one-bedroom units, usually with a full and separate kitchen, to two- and threebedroom suites, sleeping six or eight. Suites generally go for the same basic price as a one-bedroom unit, with each additional adult paying $15–20, making them an economical choice for groups travelling together. Anything calling itself a motor inn (5 –7 ) or similar will be quite luxurious, with a bar, restaurant, swimming pool and sauna but no cooking facilities.

B&Bs, lodges and boutique hotels While families might prefer the freedom and adaptability of a motel, couples are generally better served by a bed and breakfast (B&B; 3 –6 ). This might be a simple room with a bathroom down the hall and a modest continental breakfast included in the price. But the term also encompasses luxurious colonial homes with well-furnished en-suite rooms and sumptuous home-cooked breakfasts. Those at the top end are now fashioning themselves as lodges, boutique hotels and “exclusive retreats” (7 –9 ), where standards of service and comfort are raised to extraordinary levels, with prices to match. Rates drop in the low season, when these places can often be exceptionally good value. If you’re travelling alone and don’t fancy hostels, B&Bs can also be a viable alternative, usually charging lone travellers 60–80 percent of the double room rate, though some only ask ﬁfty percent.

Homestays and farmstays 46

Homestays (4 –5 ) usually offer a guest room or two in an ordinary house where you muck in with the owners and join them for breakfast the following morning. Staying in

such places can be an excellent way to meet ordinary New Zealanders; you’ll be well looked after, sometimes to the point of being overwhelmed by your hosts’ generosity. It is courteous to call in advance, and bear in mind you’ll usually have to pay in cash. Rural versions often operate as farmstays (4 –5 ), where you’re encouraged to stay a couple of nights and are welcome to spend the intervening day trying your hand at farm tasks: rounding up sheep, milking cows, fencing, whatever might need doing. Both homestays and farmstays charge for a double room, including breakfast; some cook dinner on request for $25–50 per person, and you may pay a small fee for lunch if you spend the day at the farm or for a packed lunch.

Hostels, backpackers and YHAs New Zealand has over four hundred budget and self-catering places, pretty much interchangeably known as hostels or backpackers (1 –3 ) and offering a dorm bed or bunk for around $17–27. They're often in superb locations – bang in the centre of town, beside the beach, close to a ski-ﬁeld

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| Accommodation

or amid magniﬁcent scenery in a national or forest park – and are great places to meet other travellers and pick up local information, aided by genuinely helpful managers. Backpacker hostels range in size from as few as four beds up to huge premises accommodating several hundred travellers. Virtually wherever you stay you’ll ﬁnd a fully equipped kitchen, laundry, TV and games room, a travellers’ noticeboard, and a stack of tourist information. Beds are generally fully made up with clean sheets; you should bring your own towel, though you can rent one for a few dollars. Internet access (typically a coin-op booth, and increasingly Wi-Fi) is now pretty standard, though a few rural places intentionally eschew such mod cons. Depending on the area, there may be a pool, barbecue, bike and/or canoe rental and information on local work opportunities. For security, many of the better places offer cupboards for your gear, though you’ll usually need your own lock. Almost all hostels in New Zealand are afﬁliated with local and international organizations that offer accommodation discounts to members, along with an array of other traveland activity-related savings. Some hostels allow you to pitch a tent in the grounds and use the facilities for around $15 a person, but generally the most basic and cheapest accommodation is in a 6 to 12-bunk dorm ($17–25), with 3- and 4-bed rooms (also known as three-shares and fourshares) usually priced a couple of dollars higher. Most hostels also have double, twin and family rooms (1 –2 for two), the more expensive ones with en-suite bathrooms. Lone travellers who don’t fancy a dorm can sometimes get a single room for around $35, and many larger places (especially YHAs and Base backpackers) also offer women-only dorms. Around 60 places are classiﬁed as YHA hostels or associate YHA hostels, which, unlike their European HI counterparts, have abandoned lock-outs, curfews and arcane opening hours, but maintain a predominance of single-sex dorms. Newer hostels have been purpose-built to reﬂect the YHA’s environmental concerns, promoting recycling and energy conservation. YHA and associate YHA hostels are listed on the annual YHA Backpacker Map and in the eight regional

guides (all free to members and nonmembers from hostels and organization ofﬁces). You should obtain a Hostelling International Card in your own country (see p.48 for contact details), but you can buy a $40 annual membership in NZ, which includes a phonecard loaded with around $14 of free calling time. Non-members can pay the additional $3 rate per night. The rest of the hostels are afﬁliated associate hostels, where no membership card is required, though there is often a discount of a dollar or so for members. Most YHAs request that you don’t use your own sleeping bag to avoid bed bugs and the like. You can book ahead either from another hostel or through the YHA National Reservations Centre (see p.48), and through Hostelling International ofﬁces in your home country. YHAs are outnumbered by around six-toone by other backpacker hostels, where the atmosphere is more variable; some are friendly and relaxed, others more partyoriented. Many are aligned with the NZ-based Budget Backpacker Hostels, and are listed (along with current prices) in the BBH Accommodation Guide, widely available from hostels and visitor centres. The entries are written by

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| Accommodation the hostels and don’t pretend to be impartial but each hostel is given a percentage rating based on a survey of guests, an assessment that is usually a good indicator of quality, though city hostels seldom score as highly as the best rural places. Anyone can stay at BBH hostels, but savings can be made by buying a BBH Club Card ($45), which generally saves the holder $3–4 on each night’s stay in either a dorm or a room. Cards are available from BBH and all participating hostels, and each card doubles as a rechargeable phonecard loaded with $20 worth of calling time. Over seventy hostels are members of VIP Backpacker Resorts, an umbrella organization that offers a dollar off each night’s stay to people who buy its annual VIP Discount Card ($43, valid in New Zealand, at VIP hostels worldwide). For advice on backcountry camping and trampers’ huts, see the “Outdoor Activities” section on p.61.

Hostel organizations 48

YHA ofﬁces New Zealand T0800/278 299 or 03/379 9808, Wwww.yha.co.nz.

Australia Wwww.yha.com.au. Canada W www.hihostels.ca. England and Wales Wwww.yha.org.uk. Ireland Wwww.anoige.ie. Northern Ireland Wwww.hini.org.uk. Scotland Wwww.syha.org.uk. USA Wwww.hiusa.org.

Other backpacker organizations BBH Wwww.bbh.co.nz. VIP Backpacker Resorts Wwww.vip.co.nz.

Holiday parks, campsites and cabins New Zealand has some of the world’s best camping facilities, and even if you’ve never camped before, you may well ﬁnd yourself using holiday parks (1 –4 ; also known as motor camps), which are geared for families on holiday, with space to pitch tents, powered sites (or hook-ups) for campervans and usually a broad range of dorms, cabins and motel units. You’ll ﬁnd more down-to-earth camping at wonderfully located DOC sites. Camping is largely a summer activity (Nov– May), especially in the South Island. At worst, New Zealand can be very wet, windy and plagued by voracious winged insects,

Campsites are typically located on the outskirts of towns and are invariably well equipped, with a communal kitchen, TV lounge, games area, laundry and sometimes a swimming pool; non-residents can often get showers for around $3–5. Campers usually get the quietest and most sylvan corner of the site and are charged around $10–15 per person; camping prices throughout the guide are per person unless followed by “per site”. There is often no distinction between tent pitches and the powered sites set aside for campervans, but the latter usually cost an extra few dollars per person for the use of power hook-ups and dump stations. In addition, most campsites have some form of on-site accommodation: the basic dorm-style lodge ($15–25 per person); standard cabins (1 –2 for two, plus $10 for each extra person), often little more than a shed with bunks; larger, fully equipped cabins variously known as kitchen cabins, tourist cabins or self-contained (s/c) cabins (2 , plus $15 per extra person) have cooking facilities; and if you step up to tourist ﬂats (3 for two, plus $15 per extra person), you also get your own bathroom. The ﬂasher places also have self-contained motel units

| Accommodation

Campsites and cabins

(4 –5 for two, plus $15–20 per extra person), usually with a separate bedroom and a TV. Cabins and units generally sleep two to four, but motor camps often have at least one place sleeping six or eight. Sheets and towels are rarely included, so bring a sleeping bag or be prepared to pay to rent bed linen (typically a one-off $5–10 fee). Sometimes pans and plates can be borrowed after handing over a small deposit, though for longer stays it is worth bringing your own. Campsites are independently run but some have now aligned themselves with nationwide organizations which set minimum standards. Look out for Top 10 sites (Wwww.top10.co.nz), which maintain a reliably high standard in return for slightly higher prices. By purchasing a $30 club card you save ten percent on each night’s stay and get local discounts; the card (valid two years) is transferable to Australia.

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so the ﬁrst priority for tent campers is goodquality gear with a ﬂy sheet which will repel the worst that the elements can dish out, and an inner tent with enough bug-proof ventilation for hot mornings. Busy times at motor camps fall into line with the school holidays, making Easter and the summer period from Christmas to the end of January the most hectic. Make reservations as far in advance as possible at this time, and a day or two before you arrive through February and March. DOC sites are not generally bookable, and while this is no problem through most of the year, Christmas can be a mad free-for-all. See p.40 for information about responsible overnight stops outside ofﬁcial areas.

DOC campsites Few holiday parks can match the idyllic locations of the several hundred campsites operated by the Department of Conservation (DOC; Wwww.doc.govt.nz) in national parks, reserves, maritime and forest parks, the majority beautifully set by sweeping beaches or deep in the bush. This is backto-nature camping, low-cost and with simple facilities, though sites almost always have running water and toilets of some sort. Listed in DOC’s free Conservation Campsites leaﬂet (available from DOC ofﬁces), the sites fall into one of three categories: informal (free), often with nothing but a water supply; the more common standard ($3–10, typically $5 or $6), all with vehicular access and many with barbecues, ﬁreplaces, picnic tables and refuse collection; and rare serviced ($8–14 per person), which are similar in scope to the regular motor camps. Children aged 5–15 are charged 25–50 percent off the adult price, and only the serviced sites can be booked in advance.

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Food and drink

| Food and drink

Forget preconceptions about “slam in the lamb” Kiwi cuisine with pavlova for dessert. New Zealand’s food scene is brilliant – in terms of the quality of the food, its cooking, presentation and the places where it’s served. Kiwi gastronomy has its roots in the British culinary tradition, an unfortunate heritage that still informs cooking patterns for older New Zealanders and occasionally rears its ugly head in some farmstays and guesthouses. Indeed, it is only in the last twenty years or so that New Zealand’s chefs have really woken up to the possibilities presented by a fabulous larder of super-fresh, top-quality ingredients, formulating what might be termed Modern Kiwi cuisine. Taking its culinary cues from Californian and contemporary Australian cooking, it combines traditional elements such as steak, salmon and crayﬁsh with ﬂavours drawn from the Mediterranean, Asia and the Paciﬁc Rim: sun-dried tomatoes, lemongrass, basil, ginger, coconut, and many more. Restaurateurs feel dutybound to ﬁll their menu with as broad a spectrum as possible, lining up seafood linguini, couscous, sushi, Thai venison meatballs and a chicken korma alongside the rack of lamb and gourmet pizza. Sometimes this causes gastronomic overload, but often it is simply mouth-watering.

Meat and ﬁsh

New Zealanders have a taste for meat, the quality of which is superb, with New Zealand lamb often at the head of the menu (due to traveller expectation) but matched in ﬂavour by venison and beef. With the country’s extensive coastline, it’s no surprise that ﬁsh and seafood loom large. The white, ﬂaky ﬂesh of the snapper is the most common saltwater ﬁsh, but you’ll also come across tuna, John Dory, groper (often known by its Maori name of hapuku), ﬂounder, blue cod, the ﬁrm and delicately ﬂavoured terakihi and the moist-textured orange roughy. Salmon is common, but not trout, which cannot be bought or sold (an archaic law originally intended to protect

sport ﬁshing when trout were introduced to NZ in the nineteenth century), though most hotels and restaurants will cook one if you’ve caught it. All are also very tasty smoked, though terakihi, hapuku, blue cod, marlin and smoked eel take some beating. One much-loved delicacy is whitebait, a tiny silvery ﬁsh mostly caught on the West Coast and eaten whole in fritters during the August to November season. Shellﬁsh are a real New Zealand speciality. The king of them all is the toheroa, a type of clam dug from the sands of Ninety Mile Beach on the rare occasions when numbers reach harvestable levels. They are usually made into soups and are sometimes replaced by the inferior and sweeter tuatua, also dug from Northland beaches. On menus you’re more likely to come across the fabulous Bluff oysters, scallops and sensational green-lipped mussels, which have a ﬂavour and texture that’s hard to beat and are farmed in the cool clear waters of the Marlborough Sounds, especially around Havelock. Crayﬁsh is also available round the coast and should be sought out, particularly when touring Kaikoura and the East Cape.

Fruit, vegetables and dairy produce New Zealand’s fruit is a winner, especially at harvest time when stalls line the roadsides selling apples, pears, citrus and stonefruits for next to nothing. Top-quality fruit and dairy products are the starting point for delicious desserts, traditionally variations on the themes of ice cream, cheesecake and pavlova, though today supplemented by rich cakes and modern twists on British-style steamed puddings. Vegetables are generally fresh and delicious. British favourites such as potatoes,

The abundance of fresh vegetables and dairy food means that self-catering vegetarians will eat well, though in restaurants they are less well served. Outside the major centres you’ll ﬁnd hardly any dedicated vegetarian restaurants and will have to rely on the token meatfree dishes served in most cafēs. Salad, sandwiches, vegetarian pizza or pasta are readily available but can get a bit monotonous. Vegans can always ask for a simple stir-fry if all else fails but in terms of snacks, you’ll develop an unhealthy reliance on nachos and the ubiquitous veggieburger, though these days many new “organic” outlets offer homemade vegan and vegetarian pies. If you are taking a multi-day expedition on which food is provided, give them plenty of notice of your dietary needs.

Eating out The quality of restaurants in New Zealand is typically superb, portions are respectable, and

| Food and drink

Vegetarian food

many are good value for money – especially BYO establishments, where cost shrinks if you “bring your own” wine (corkage fees are typically $5 or under). In most restaurants you can expect to pay upwards of $20 for a main course, perhaps $45 for three courses without wine. Service tends to be helpful without being forced and there is no expectation of a tip, though a reward for exceptional service is always welcomed. However, legislation means that on public holidays you’ll be expected to pay a surcharge (15–20 percent) to ensure staff wages compensate for their giving up their statutory holiday. New Zealand’s range of ethnic restaurants is constantly improving, with the major inﬂux of East Asian immigrants enlivening the scene and lending a strong Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Singaporian and Japanese ﬂavour to the larger cities, alongside Indian and Mexican places. Maori and Polynesian food isn’t widely represented in restaurants, but you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to sample it when it’s on offer, particularly in Wellington (see p.485) and Rotorua (p.311), or try a hangi (see box, p.52) – an earth oven producing delectable, fall-off-the-bone meat and delicately steamed vegetables. Often there is little between restaurants and the better café/bars, which offer food that’s just as good and a few dollars cheaper. Dining is less formal and you may well ﬁnd yourself elbow to elbow with folk just out for a beer or coffee. Other cafés might only offer breakfasts and all-day snacks but nearly all serve good coffee. Cosmopolitan cafés have all but replaced the traditional tearooms, self-service cafeteria-style establishments with no atmosphere but cheap food. Most were unlicensed and dished out machine coffee or tea, pre-packaged sandwiches, unsavoury savouries, sticky cakes and other crimes against the tastebud. On tourist routes, long-distance buses usually made their comfort stops at such tearooms but nowadays tend to opt for more modern cafés, though a few “trad” tearooms still hang on. Most bars now serve pub meals, often the best budget eating around, with straightforward steak and chips, lasagne, pizza or burritos all served with salad for under $20.

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carrots, peas and cabbage, along with pumpkin and squash, are common in Kiwi homes but on restaurant menus you’re far more likely to encounter aubergines (eggplant), capsicums (bell peppers) and tomatoes. Paciﬁc staples to look out for are kumara (sweet potato), which crops up in hangi and deep-fried as kumara chips. A delicious crossover point between fruit and vegetables is carrot cake, which comes in many variations; Kiwis have a passion for it and most cafés and restaurants offer up their own special take on it. New Zealanders eat a lot of dairy. Small producers, particularly around the Kapiti Coast (north of Wellington), Blenheim and Banks Peninsula (east of Christchurch), turn out some gorgeous, if expensive cheeses, from traditional hard cheddar styles to creamy blues, via spicy pepper bries. Basic supermarket cheeses tend to be bland so head for the deli counter and get cheese from local specialists. Delicious ice cream of the ﬁrm, scooped variety is something of a New Zealand institution, and is available in a vast range of ﬂavours, including intensely fruity ones and the indulgent hokey pokey – vanilla ice cream riddled with chunks of caramel.

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| Food and drink

The country’s ever-burgeoning wine industry has also spawned a number of vineyard restaurants, particularly in the growing areas of Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. They’re almost all geared to shifting their own vino but provide good, though often expensive, food to soak up the tastings. Most have outdoor seating close to or under the vines, and may well be an area for a post-prandial game of pétanque.

Breakfast, snacks and takeaways New Zealanders generally take a light “continental” breakfast of juice, cereals, toast and tea or coffee. Visitors staying at a homestay or B&B may well be offered an additional “cooked breakfast”, probably along the lines of bacon and eggs; if you’re staying in motels, hostels or campsites, you’ll usually have to fend for yourself. In bigger towns, you’ll often ﬁnd a bakery selling fresh croissants, bagels and focaccia, but at weekends New Zealanders tend to go out for breakfast or brunch, at cafés serving anything from a bowl of fruit and muesli to platefuls of Eggs Florentine or Benedict with smoked salmon or bacon. In the cities you’ll also come across food courts, usually in shopping malls with a

dozen or so stalls selling bargain plates of all manner of ethnic dishes. Traditional burger bars continue to serve constructions far removed from the limp internationalfranchise offerings: weighty buns with juicy patties, thick ketchup, a stack of lettuce and tomato and the ever-present Kiwi favourite, beetroot. Meat pies are another stalwart of Kiwi snacking: sold in bakeries and from warming cabinets in pubs everywhere, the traditional steak and mince varieties are now supplemented by bacon and egg, venison, steak and cheese, steak and oyster, smoked ﬁsh and kumara and, increasingly, vegetarian versions. Fish and chips (or “greasies”) are also rightly popular – the ﬁsh is often shark (euphemistically called lemon ﬁsh or ﬂake), though tastier species are always available for slightly more, and the chips (fries) are invariably thick and crisp. Look out too for paua fritters, battered slabs of minced abalone that are something of an acquired taste.

Self-catering If you’re self-catering, your best bet for supplies is the local supermarket: the warehouse-style Pak ’n’ Save, slightly more expensive but reliable New World,

The hangi

In New Zealand restaurants you’ll ﬁnd few examples of Maori or Polynesian cuisine, though the cooking style does now have a foothold in forward-looking eateries. But you can always sample traditional cooking methods at a hangi (pronounced nasally as “hungi”), where meat and vegetables are steamed for hours in an earth oven then served to the assembled masses. The ideal way to experience a hangi is as a guest at a private gathering of extended families, but most people have to settle for one of the commercial affairs in Rotorua or Christchurch. There you’ll be a paying customer rather than a guest but the hangi ﬂavours will be authentic, though sometimes the operators may have been creative in the more modern methods they’ve used to achieve them. At a traditional hangi, ﬁrst the men light a ﬁre and place river stones in the embers. While these are heating, they dig a suitably large pit, then place the hot stones in the bottom and cover them with wet sacking. Meanwhile the women prepare lamb, pork, chicken, ﬁsh, shellﬁsh and vegetables (particularly kumara), wrapping the morsels in leaves then arranging them in baskets (originally of ﬂax, but now most often of steel mesh). The baskets are lowered into the cooking pit and covered with earth so that the steam and the ﬂavours are sealed in. A couple of hours later, the baskets are disinterred, revealing fabulously tender steamsmoked meat and vegetables with a faintly earthy ﬂavour. A suitably reverential silence, broken only by munching and appreciative murmurs, usually descends.

New Zealand boasts many ﬁne wines and beers, which can be sampled in cafés and restaurants all over the land. But for the lowest prices and a genuine Kiwi atmosphere you can’t beat the pub. It’s a place where folk stop off on their way home from work, its emphasis on consumption and back-slapping camaraderie rather than ambience and decor. In the cities, where competition from cafés is strong, pubs tend to be more comfortable and relaxing, but in the sticks little has changed. Rural pubs can initially be daunting for strangers, but once you get chatting, barriers soon drop. A few pubs are still divided into the public bar, a joyless Formica and linoleum place where overalls and work boots are the sartorial order of the day, and the lounge bar, where you are expected to dress up a bit more. Drinking hours are barely limited at all; you can drink in most bars until at least midnight on weeknights and until 3am or often later at weekends. The drinking age is 18, though anyone who looks under 25 can expect to be asked for identiﬁcation and smokers are banished to open air, often in small purposely constructed shelters.

Beer Beer is drunk everywhere and often. Nearly all of it is produced by two huge conglomerates – New Zealand Breweries and DB – who market countless variations on the

| Food and drink

Drinking

lager and Pilsener theme, as well as insipid, deep-brown ﬁzzy liquid dispensed from taps and in bottles as “draught” – a distant and altogether feebler relation of Britishstyle bitter. Increasingly, Kiwi beer drinkers are turning to lager, especially their beloved Steinlager and its newer “no-additive” version Pure. There really isn’t a lot to choose between the beers except for alcohol content, normally around four percent, though ﬁve percent is common for premium beers usually described as “export”. To ﬁnd something different and better tasting, seek out boutique beers such as those brewed near Nelson by Mac’s. Try their dark and delicious stout-like Black Mac, the bitter-like Sassy Red or wait around for the Oktober Mac, a light and fresh concoction brewed in September and only available until it runs out. Small, regional brewers and in-house microbreweries are increasingly establishing themselves on the scene – look out for the Loaded Hog and One Red Dog restaurant/ bars, while in other pubs and bars, check for Emersons, from Dunedin, or Founders, from Nelson (to name but a couple of widespread superior ale producers). Recently, in the central North Island, the Waituna Brewing Company have started producing “Maori” beer, available in and around Palmerston North, but they’ve some catching up to do if they want to compete with other micro-breweries. Most bottle shops stock a fair range of foreign brews and the ﬂashier bars are always well stocked with international bottled beers – at a price. On tap, you will only ﬁnd New Zealand beer, except for the odd ersatz Irish bar pouring Guinness and the like. A good source of information about all things beery in New Zealand is W www .brewing.co.nz. Measures are standard throughout the country: traditionalists buy a one-litre jug, which is then decanted into the required number of glasses, usually a seven (originally seven ﬂuid ounces, or 200ml), a ten, or even an elegantly ﬂuted twelve. Despite thirty years under the metric system, handled pints (just over half a litre) have now become widespread. Keep in mind that a half-pint will

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Countdown or Woolworths. Failing that, you’ll notice a marked drop in scope and hike in prices at smaller local supermarkets – IGA and Four Square are the most common. Recently opened and much vaunted small outlets, offering predominantly organic supplies, present a good alternative to the plethora of convenience corner shops (or dairies) stocking bogstandard essentials. Sadly, both types of store, along with shops at campsites and those in isolated areas with a captive market, tend to have inﬂated prices. Supermarkets sell beer and wine, but for anything else you’ll need a bottle store, often attached to the local pub.

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always be served as a ten ﬂuid ounce glass and therefore will be a little over half the price of a pint. Prices vary enormously, but you can expect to pay around $5–8 for a pint. It is much cheaper to buy in bulk from a bottle shop where beer is either sold in six-packs or cartons of a dozen or twenty-four ($16–25). Serious drinkers go for reﬁllable half-gallon ﬂagons (2.25 litres) or their metric variant, the two-litre rigger; these can be bought for around a dollar and ﬁlled for $10–15 at taps in bottle shops.

Wines and spirits Kiwis are justiﬁably loyal to New Zealand winemakers, who now produce wines that are among the best in the world. New Zealand is rapidly encroaching on the Loire’s standing as the world benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc, while the bold fruitiness of its Chardonnay and apricot and citrus palate of its Rieslings attracts many fans. Wine menus feature few non-Kiwi whites, but reds are often of the broad-shouldered Aussie variety. Nevertheless, there are good New Zealand reds, particularly young-drinking varietals using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and, perhaps best of all, Pinot Noir. A liking for champagne no longer implies “champagne tastes” in New Zealand: you can still buy the wildly overpriced French stuff, but good Kiwi Méthode Traditionelle (fermented in the bottle in the time-honoured way) starts at around $18 a bottle: Montana’s Lindauer Brut is widely available, and justly popular. Another drinking trend is for dessert wines (or “stickies”) typically made from grapes withered on the vine by the botrytis fungus, the so-called “noble rot”. Most bars and licensed restaurants have a tempting range of wines, many sold by the glass ($6–9, $8 and up for dessert wine), while in shops the racks groan under bottles starting from $10 ($14–20 for reasonable quality). “Chateau cardboard” wine bladders are considered passé nowadays, so buy a decent bottle if invited out. If you want to try before you buy, visit a few wineries, where you are usually free to sample half a dozen different wines. There is sometimes a small fee, especially to try the reserve wines, but it is always redeemable if you buy a bottle. Among the established

wine-growing areas, Henderson and the Kumeu Valley, 15km west of Auckland, is one of the more accessible, though its urban nature makes it the least appealing to tour. On the east coast of the North Island, the area around Gisborne is good for a tasting afternoon but wine connoisseurs are better off in Hawke’s Bay, where Napier and Hastings are surrounded by almost thirty vineyards open to the public. Further south, Martinborough has the most accessible cluster of vineyards, many within walking distance. The colder climate of the South Island effectively limits wine production to the northern part, though there are increasing number of vineyards in Central Otago near Queenstown and Alexandra. The best are in Marlborough, close to Blenheim, which competes with Hawke’s Bay for the title of New Zealand’s top wine region. A good starting point for information on the Kiwi wine scene is W www.nzwine .com. New Zealand also produces fruit liqueurs; some are delicious, though few visitors develop an enduring taste for the sickly sweet kiwifruit or feijoa varieties, which are mostly sold through souvenir shops. International spirits are widely available and their dominance is challenged only by one New Zealand-made vodka called 42 Below, and two single malt whiskies: Milford, made by the New Zealand Malt Whisky Co. (W www .milfordwhisky.co.nz); and Lammerlaw, made by Dunedin-based Wilson Distillers.

Soft drinks New Zealand coolers are stocked with just about every international brand of carbonated soft drink, but one home-grown (though not Kiwi-owned) brand to look out for is L&P – originally Lemon and Paeroa after the Hauraki Plains town where it was ﬁrst made – a naturally lemon-ﬂavoured pop. Milkshakes, thickshakes (usually with a dollop of ice cream) and smoothies made with blended fruit are popular thirst quenchers, and almost any café worth its salt serves glasses of spirulina, a thick, green goo made from powdered seaweed and often mixed with the likes of apple juice and avocado. Enthusiasts claim restorative properties when drunk the morning after a bender.

Tea and coffee

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| The media

Tea is usually a down-to-earth Indian blend (sometimes jocularly known as “gumboot”), though you may also have a choice of a dozen or so ﬂavoured, scented and herbal varieties. Coffee drinking has been elevated to an art form with a specialized terminology: an Italian-style espresso is known as a short black (sometimes served with a jug of hot water so you can dilute it to taste); a weaker

and larger version is a long black, which, with the addition of milk becomes a ﬂat white; cappuccinos come regular or chocolate-laced as a mochaccino; while a milky café latte is usually sold in a glass but sometimes in a gargantuan bowl. Better places will serve all these decaffeinated, skinny or even made with soya milk. Flavoured syrups are occasionally available but are not common, and plunger and dripstyle coffee is increasingly rare.

The media For a country of only four million inhabitants, New Zealand has a vibrant media scene. Auckland apparently has more radio stations per capita than any city in the world, and the magazine racks groan with Kiwi-produced weeklies and monthlies. The standard of media coverage sometimes leaves a little to be desired, but for the most part this is a well-informed country with sophisticated tastes. On the web a good starting point is W www.publicaddress.net, the leading Kiwi blog site, which always features something interesting.

TV New Zealanders receive ﬁve main free-to-air broadcast channels, a handful of local channels and Sky TV, a subscriber service offering ﬁfty-plus channels plus assorted pay-per-view offerings. Travellers are always griping about low standards, but while much prime-time viewing is unashamedly populist there is high-quality stuff out there – you just have to look for it. The biggest broadcaster is the stateowned TVNZ, which operates two channels (TV ONE and TV2) and has the unenviable task of being both a commercial broadcaster (with plenty of adverts) and delivering highquality programmes according to its “charter”. TV ONE has slightly older and more information-based programming while TV2 is younger and more entertainmentoriented. In practice there is a lot of crossover, and both channels present a diet of locally produced news, current affairs, sport, drama and entertainment, plus a slew

of US, British and Australian programmes: you’ll ﬁnd most of your favourites, often 3–6 months behind. British readers may be surprised to hear that Coronation Street is huge in New Zealand. The main opposition comes from TV3, which pitches itself roughly between TV ONE and TV2, and newcomer Prime, backed by Sky TV, which often has quirkier programming. Lastly there’s Maori TV, which was launched in 2004 with substantial government support (though it also has ads). Broadcasting in Maori and English, it is charged with promoting the language and culture but is far from a stuffy educational channel. Along with good movies you might catch Maori cooking shows, lifestyle makeovers, sitcoms, a gay show and Maori angles on news, current affairs and sport. You might not become a regular viewer, but it is well worth dipping into. TV reception is virtually nationwide for TVONE, TV2 and TV3; the other channels

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| The media

have slightly narrower coverage. To compensate, many motels and some other accommodation come with Sky TV, featuring half a dozen channels including Discovery, BBC World, CNN, the Weather Channel, National Geographic, Animal Planet, E!, ESPN, plus cartoons, music channels, and some sport and movies.

Radio New Zealand has few countrywide radio stations, but syndication means that some commercial stations can be heard in various parts of the country (principally the bigger cities) but with local commercials. All websites listed stream the channel over the Internet. For news, current affairs and a thoughtful look at the arts and music, tune into the government-funded Radio New Zealand National (101.0–101.6 FM; Wwww.radionz .co.nz) which is the nearest New Zealand gets to, say, NPR or BBC Radio 4. You’ll pick it up most places, though there are blank spots. Its sister station Radio New Zealand Concert (89–100 FM) concentrates on classical music, but reception is patchy. Though sometimes pretty rough around the edges, student radio stations often provide excellent and varied “alternative” listening, though only in their home city. In Auckland tune to bFM (95.0; Wwww.95bfm .co.nz); in Wellington to Active (89.0; Wwww .radioactive.co.nz); in Christchurch to RDU (98.3; W www.rdu.org.nz); and in Dunedin to Radio One (91.0; Wwww.r1.co.nz). A host of other commercial stations clog up the rest of the airwaves. Stations syndicated to various cities (on assorted frequencies) include the Top 40-oriented The Edge (Wwww.theedge.co.nz), the rock-oriented The Rock (Wwww.therock.net.nz), the classic rock of Hauraki, the self-explanatory NewstalkZB, and the middle-of-the-road music station ZM. In Auckland, listen out for the urban, hip-hop and Rn’B of Flava (96.1FM).

New Zealand has no national daily newspaper, making do with four major regional papers (all published Mon–Sat mornings) and a plethora of minor rags of mostly local interest. Despite its title, the

big-circulation New Zealand Herald (W www .nzherald.co.nz) is primarily an Auckland paper, with reach over the northern half of the North Island. The southern half of the North Island is covered by the Wellingtonbased Dominion Post (W www.dompost .co.nz) while The Press (W www.stuff.co.nz) covers Christchurch and its environs, and the Otago Daily Times (W www.odt.co.nz) is widely distributed over the far south of the country. All offer a pretty decent selection of national and international news, sport and reviews, often relying heavily on wire services and syndication deals with major British and American newspapers. All the main papers are politically fairly neutral. There are two Sunday papers with national distribution, the tabloid-style Sunday News and the broadsheet Sunday StarTimes, which is probably the better of the two. The Auckland-based Herald on Sunday is distributed over much of the North Island. Kiwi newspaper journalists get little scope for imaginative or investigative journalism, though the broad-ranging and slightly leftleaning weekly magazine, the Listener (Wwww.listener.co.nz), does its best. With coverage of politics, art, music, TV, radio, books, science, travel, architecture and much more, it is perhaps the best overall insight into what makes New Zealand tick, and it costs under $4. Topics are covered in greater depth in the nationwide monthly North and South, though for an insight into the aspirations of Aucklanders you might be better off with the snappier glossy, Metro. Specialist magazines cover the range: Wilderness (Wwww.wildernessmag.com) has a good spread of tramping, kayaking, climbing and mountain biking, and Real Groove is the best of the general music mags. The bi-monthly Mana (Wwww.manaonline .co.nz) pitches itself as “the Maori news magazine for all New Zealanders”, and gives an insight into what sometimes seems like a parallel world barely acknowledged by the mainstream media. It is in English, but comes peppered with Maori words and concepts which can make reading a little bafﬂing at ﬁrst, though it conveniently comes with a back-page glossary.

In the southern hemisphere, Christmas falls in the middle of summer, during the school summer holidays, which run from midDecember until early February. From Boxing Day through to the middle of January Kiwis hit the beaches en masse and during this time you’ll ﬁnd a lot more people about. Motels and campgrounds can be difﬁcult to book and often raise their prices, though B&Bs and hostels rarely up their rates. To help you chart a path through the chaos, visitor centres are open for longer hours, as are some museums and many other tourist attractions. Other school holidays last for two weeks in mid- to late April, a fortnight in early to mid-July and the ﬁrst two weeks of October, though these have a less pronounced effect. Public holidays (marked PH in the listing in below) are big news in New Zealand and it can feel like the entire country has taken to the roads, so it’s worth considering staying put rather than trying to travel on these days. Each region also takes one day a year to celebrate its Anniversary Day, remembering the founding of the original provinces that made up New Zealand. We’ve listed ofﬁcial dates below, but days are usually observed on the nearest Monday (or occasionally Friday) to make a long weekend. Although this isn’t a good time to actually arrive in town, if you’re there already you can join in the shenanigans, usually consisting of an agricultural show, horse-jumping, sheep-shearing, cake baking and best-vegetable contests, plus a novelty event like gumboot throwing.

Public holidays and festivals Many of the festivals listed below are covered in more detail in the relevant section of the Guide. PH indicates a public holiday. JANUARY 1 New Year’s Day (PH) Whaleboat Racing Regatta, Kawhia; Highland Games, Waipu (Wwww .highlandgames.co.nz).

2 (PH) First Sat Glenorchy Races (Wwww .glenorchy.com). 17 Anniversary Day (PH in Southland). Third Fri Big Day Out, NZ’s biggest one-day music festival, Auckland (W www.bigdayout.com). 22 Anniversary Day (PH in Wellington). 29 Anniversary Day (PH in Auckland, Northland, Waikato, Coromandel, Taupo and the Bay of Plenty). Massive regatta on Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour. FEBRUARY 1 Anniversary Day (PH in Nelson). 6 Waitangi Day (PH) formal events at Waitangi. First Sat Rippon music festival, Wanaka (Wwww .ripponfestival.co.nz); First weekend Waitangi weekend, Harvest Hawke’s Bay (Wwww.harvesthawkesbay.co.nz). Second Weekend Coast-to-Coast multisport race (see p.742). Second weekend Wine Marlborough Festival, Blenheim (Wwww.wine-marlborough-festival .co.nz). Third Sat Mission Bay Jazz and Blues Streetfest, Mission Bay, Auckland (Wwww .jazzandbluesstreetfest.com). Third weekend Art Deco Weekend, Napier (W www.artdeconapier.com). Devonport Food & Wine Festival (Wwww .devonportwinefestival.co.nz). Last week Flowers & Romance Festival, Christchurch (Wwww.festivalofﬂowers.co.nz). Mid-Feb to early March Wellington Fringe Festival (Wwww.fringe.org.nz). MARCH Late Feb to late March NZ International Arts Festival, Wellington (even-numbered years only; W www.nzfestival.telecom.co.nz); Taranaki International Festival of the Arts (oddnumbered years only; Wwww.aertsfest.co.nz). First week Golden Shears sheep-shearing competition in Masterton (Wwww.goldenshears.co.nz). Early March Pasiﬁka Festival, Auckland (Wwww .aucklandcity.govt.nz/pasiﬁka). Second Sat Wildfoods Festival, Hokitika (see p.744); Te Houtaewa Challenge and Te Houtaewa Surf Challenge, Ahipara (Wwww.newzealand-marathon .co.nz)

| Festivals and public holidays

Holidays

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Festivals and public holidays

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| Outdoor activities

Mid-March WOMAD festival, New Plymouth (W www.womad.co.nz). Sun in mid-March Round-the-Bays fun run, Auckland (Wwww.roundthebays.co.nz). Closest Sat to March 17 Ngaruawahia Maori Regatta, near Hamilton. 23 Anniversary Day (PH in Otago). 31 Anniversary Day (PH in Taranaki). APRIL Late March to late April Good Friday (PH) and Easter Sunday (PH). Easter week Waiheke Island Jazz Festival (Wwww .waihekejazz.co.nz); Royal Easter Show, Auckland (W www.royaleastershow.co.nz); Warbirds Over Wanaka International Airshow (even-numbered years only; see p.815); National Jazz Festival, Tauranga (W www.jazz.org.nz). 25 ANZAC Day (PH). Late April Five-day Festival of Colour (oddnumbered years only; W www.festivalofcolour .co.nz) in Wanaka. Music, dance, theatre and arts. Last week Arrowtown Autumn Festival (Wwww .arrowtownautumnfestival.org.nz). JUNE First Mon Queen’s Birthday (PH). Middle weekend Fieldays. The southern hemisphere’s largest agricultural show, Hamilton (W www.ﬁeldays.co.nz). Mid- to late Matariki, Maori New Year festivities (W www.taitokerau.co.nz/matariki.htm). Late June to early July Two-week Queenstown Winter Festival (Wwww.winterfestival.co.nz).

JULY Mid- to late July Auckland International Film Festival (Wwww.enzedff.co.nz); Wellington Film Festival (Wwww.enzedff.co.nz). SEPTEMBER First full week Gay Ski Week, Queenstown (W www.gayskiweeknz.com). Fourth weekend Alexandra Blossom Festival (W www.blossom.co.nz). Last week and into Oct World of Wearable Art Awards Show, Wellington (Wwww .worldofwearableart.com). OCTOBER Fourth Mon Labour Day (PH). 31 Halloween. General trick or treating. NOVEMBER 1 Anniversary Day (PH in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough). 5 Guy Fawkes’ Night ﬁreworks. Second week Canterbury Show week (Wwww .nzcupandshow.co.nz). Third Fri Anniversary Day (PH in Canterbury). Third Sun Toast Martinborough Wine, Food & Music Festival (Wwww.toastmartinborough.co.nz). DECEMBER 1 Anniversary Day (PH in Westland). 25 Christmas Day (PH). 26 Boxing Day (PH). 31 Rhythm and Vines, New Year’s Eve music festival, Gisborne (Wwww.rhythmandvines.co.nz).

Outdoor activities Life in New Zealand is tied to the Great Outdoors, and no visit to the country would be complete without spending a fair chunk of your time in intimate contact with nature.

Kiwis have long taken it for granted that within a few minutes’ drive of their home they can ﬁnd a deserted beach or piece of “bush” and wander freely through it, an attitude enshrined in a fabulous collection of national, forest and maritime parks. They

are all administered by the Department of Conservation (DOC; W www.doc.govt.nz), which seeks to balance the maintenance of a fragile environment with the demands of tourism. For the most part it manages remarkably well, providing a superb

Before engaging in any adventure activities, check your insurance cover (see p.79).

Tramping

| Outdoor activities

Tramping, trekking, bushwalking, hiking – call it what you will, it is one of the most compelling reasons to visit New Zealand, and for many the sole objective. Even if the idea sounds appalling, try it once, as the bug frequently bites reluctant trampers. Hikes typically last three to ﬁve days, following well-worn trails through relatively untouched wilderness, often in one of the country’s national parks. Along the way you’ll be either camping out or staying in trampers’ huts, and will consequently be lugging a pack over some rugged terrain, so a moderate level of ﬁtness is required. If this sounds daunting, you can sign up with one of the guided tramping companies that maintain more salubrious huts or luxury lodges, provide meals and carry much of your gear. Details of these are given throughout the Guide. The main tramping season is in summer, from October to May, although the most popular tramps – the Milford, Routeburn and Kepler – are in the cooler southern half of the South Island, where the season is shorter by a few weeks at either end.

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network of signposted paths studded with trampers’ huts and operating visitor centres that present highly informative material about the local history, ﬂora and fauna. They also publish excellent leaﬂets for major walking tracks. The lofty peaks of the Southern Alps offer challenging mountaineering and great skiing, while the lower slopes are ideal for multi-day tramps which cross low passes between valleys choked with subtropical and temperate rainforests. Along the coasts there are sheltered lagoons and calm harbours for gentle swimming and boating, but also sweeping strands battered by some topclass surf. The country also promotes itself as the adventure tourism capital of the world. All over New Zealand you will ﬁnd places to go bungy jumping, whitewater or cave rafting, jetboating, tandem skydiving, mountain biking, stunt ﬂying or scuba diving – in fact if you name it someone somewhere organizes it. While thousands of people participate in these activities every day without incident, standards of instructor training do vary. It seems to be a point of honour for all male (and they are almost all male) river guides, bungy operators and tandem parachute instructors to play the macho card and put the wind up you as much as possible. Such bravado shouldn’t be interpreted as a genuine disregard for safety, but the fact remains that there have been quite a few well-publicized injuries and deaths – a tragic situation that’s addressed by industryregulated codes of practice, an independent system of accreditation and home-grown organizations that insist upon high levels of professionalism and safety instruction.

The tramps Rugged terrain and a history of trackbashing by explorers and deer hunters has left New Zealand with a web of tramps following river valleys and linking up over passes, high above the bushline. As far as possible, we’ve indicated the degree of difﬁculty of all tramps covered in the Guide,

Te Araroa – The Long Pathway Since the mid-1970s it has been a Kiwi dream to have a continuous path from one end of the country to the other. In recent years, Te Araroa – The Long Pathway (Wwww.teararoa.org.nz), has been championed by the Te Araroa Trust, a private group that intends to have the whole 2900km route, from Cape Reinga to Bluff, open by the end of 2010. Short trails, built with the trust’s involvement, aim to link the fragmented network of existing tracks into a continuous whole. A provisional, impressively varied, route exists, much of it running through fairly remote country, although it intentionally visits small communities so that trampers can re-supply. A handful of hardy souls have already tramped the whole route but it is envisaged that most people will tackle shorter sections.

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broadly following DOC’s classiﬁcation system: a path is level, well graded and often wheelchair-accessible; walking tracks and tramping tracks (usually marked with red and white or orange ﬂashes on trees) are respectively more arduous affairs requiring some ﬁtness and proper walking equipment; and a route requires considerable tramping experience to cope with an ill-deﬁned trail, frequently above the bushline. DOC’s estimated walking times can trip you up: along paths likely to be used by families, for example, you can easily ﬁnd yourself ﬁnishing in under half the time speciﬁed, but on serious routes aimed at ﬁt trampers you might struggle to keep pace. We’ve given estimates for moderately ﬁt individuals and, where possible, included the distance and amount of climbing involved, aiding route planning. Invaluable information on walking directions, details of access, huts and an adequate map are contained in the excellent DOC tramp leaﬂets (usually $1 apiece). The title of each leaﬂet relating to an area is included in the appropriate places throughout this book, though we only include the price if it is $2 or over.

The maps in each DOC leaﬂet should be sufﬁcient for trampers as long as they stick to the designated route, but experienced walkers planning independent routes and folk after a more detailed vision of the terrain should fork out for specialized maps that identify all the features along the way. Most trampers’ huts have a copy of the local area map pinned to the wall or laminated into the table. In describing tramps we have used “true directions” in relation to rivers and streams, whereby the left bank (the “true left”) is the left-hand side of the river looking downstream. Eight of New Zealand’s ﬁnest, most popular tramps, plus one river journey, have been classiﬁed by DOC as Great Walks and are covered in detail in the Guide and in the Adrenalin heaven colour section. Great Walks get the lion’s share of DOC track spending, resulting in relatively smooth, broad walkways, with boardwalks over muddy sections and bridges over almost every stream. In short, they represent the slightly sanitized side of New Zealand tramping. Access to tracks is seldom a problem in the most popular tramping regions, though it

New Zealand’s backcountry is strung with a network of almost nine hundred trampers’ huts, sited less than a day’s walk apart, frequently in beautiful surroundings. All are simple, communal affairs that fall into ﬁve distinct categories as deﬁned by DOC. Basic Huts (free) are often crude and rarely encountered on the major tramps. Next up is the Standard Hut ($5 per person per night): basic, weatherproof, usually equipped with individual bunks or sleeping platforms accommodating a dozen or so, an external long-drop toilet and a water supply. There is seldom any heating and there are no cooking facilities. Serviced Huts ($10) tend to be larger, sleeping twenty or more on bunks with mattresses. Water is piped indoors to a sink, and ﬂush toilets are occasionally encountered. Again, you’ll need to bring your own stove and cooking gear, but heating is provided; if the ﬁre is a woodburning one, you should replace any ﬁrewood you use. More sophisticated still are the Great Walk Huts – unsurprisingly found along the Great Walks. They tend to have separate bunkrooms, gas rings for cooking (but no utensils), stoves for heating, a drying room and occasionally solar-powered lighting. Children of school age generally pay half the adult fee and, thanks to a DOC initiative, under-18s can now use Great Walk huts and campsites for free – though you should still book in advance. Hut fees are best paid in advance at the local DOC ofﬁce, visitor centre or other outlet close to the start of the track. For most tramps you buy a quantity of $5 tickets and give the warden the appropriate number (one for a Standard hut, two for a Serviced

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Backcountry accommodation: huts and camping

hut) or post them in the hut’s honesty box. You can sometimes buy tickets direct from wardens, but there is often a 25 percent premium on the price. If you are planning to tramp any of the Great Walks you must buy a Great Walks Hut Pass, covering the cost of your accommodation for the walk you intend to complete, and carry the conﬁrmation with you, otherwise the wardens will charge you for each hut again. The pass and reservation, made simultaneously, guarantee trekkers a bed on the Kepler, Milford, Routeburn, Abel Tasman and Heaphy. No similar reservation is made with a hut pass bought for the remaining Great Walks, primarily because it’s considered very unlikely that each hut will ﬁll up. The easiest way to make reservations and get Great Walk hut passes is online (W www.doc.govt.nz), or through the relevant/local DOC ofﬁce (see accounts in the Guide) or, at a push, by using a booking agent, stating which hut you intend to use each night. To get more information about the Great Walks and other NZ tramps you can also log on to W www.tramper.co.nz. In winter (May–Sept) the huts on Great Walks are often stripped of heating and cooking

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does require planning. Most ﬁnish some distance from their start, so taking your own vehicle is not much use; besides, cars parked at trailheads are an open invitation to thieves. Great Walks always have transport from the nearest town, but there are often equally stunning and barely used tramps close by which require a little more patience and tenacity to get to – we’ve included some of the best of the rest in the Guide, listed under “Tramps” in the index.

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facilities and downgraded to Standard status, so if you have an Annual Hut Pass (see below) you can use them, though possessing the pass or a ticket doesn’t guarantee you a bunk. Beds go on a ﬁrstcome-ﬁrst-served basis, so if the trail is very busy you may ﬁnd yourself in an undigniﬁed gallop to the next hut. Should you wish to do a lot of tramping outside the Great Walks system, or on the Great Walks out of season, it’s worth buying an Annual Hut Pass ($90), which allows you to stay in all Standard and Serviced huts. Camping is allowed on all tracks except the Milford. Rules vary, but in most cases you’re required to minimize environmental impact by camping close to the huts, whose facilities (toilets, water and gas rings where available, but obviously not bunks) you can use.

Equipment Tramping in New Zealand can be a dangerous and/or dispiriting experience if you’re not equipped for both hot, sunny days and wet, cold and windy weather. The best tramps pass through some of the world’s

wettest regions, with parts of the Milford Track receiving over six metres of rain a year. It is essential to carry a good waterproof jacket, preferably made from breathable fabric and ﬁtted with a decent hood. Keeping your lower half dry is less crucial and most Kiwis tramp in shorts. Early starts often involve wading through long, sodden grass, so a pair of knee-length gaiters can come in handy. Comfortable boots with good ankle support are a must; take suitably broken-in leather boots or lightweight walking boots, and some comfortable footwear for the day’s end. You’ll also need a warm jacket or jumper, plus a good sleeping bag; even the heated huts are cold at night and a warm hat never goes amiss. All this, along with lighter clothing for sunny days, should be kept inside a robust backpack, preferably lined with a strong waterproof liner such as those sold at DOC ofﬁces. Once on the tramp, you need to be totally self-sufﬁcient. On Great Walks, you should carry cooking gear; on other tramps you also need a cooking stove and fuel. Food can be your heaviest burden; freeze-dried meals are light and reasonably tasty, but they are expensive, and many costconscious trampers prefer pasta or rice, dried soups for sauces, a handful of fresh vegetables, muesli (granola), milk powder and bread or crackers for lunch. Consider taking biscuits, trail mix (known in New Zealand as “scroggin”), tea, coffee and powdered fruit drinks (the Raro brand is good), and energy-giving spreads. All huts have drinking water but DOC advise treating water taken from lakes and rivers to protect yourself from giardia; see p.79 for more on this and water-puriﬁcation methods. You should also carry basic supplies: a ﬁrst aid kit, blister kit, sunscreen, insect repellent; a torch (ﬂashlight) with spare battery and bulb, candles, matches or a lighter; and a compass (though few bother on the bettermarked tracks). In the most popular tramping areas you will be able to rent equipment. Most important of all, remember that you’ll have to carry all this stuff for hours each day. Hotels and hostels in nearby towns will generally let you leave your surplus gear either free or for a small fee.

Safety

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Kiwi life is inextricably linked with the beach, and from Christmas to the end of March (longer in warmer northern climes), a weekend isn’t complete without a dip or a waterside barbecue – though you should never underestimate the ferocity of the southern sun (see p.79 for precautions). Some of the most picturesque beaches stretch away into salt spray from the pounding Tasman surf or Paciﬁc rollers. Swimming here can be very hazardous, so only venture into the water at beaches patrolled by surf lifesaving clubs and always swim between the ﬂags. Spotter planes patrol the most popular beaches and warn of the occasional shark, so if you notice everyone heading for the safety of the beach, get out of the water. New Zealand’s tempestuous coastline offers near-perfect conditions for surﬁng and windsurﬁng. At major beach resorts there is often an outlet renting dinghies, catamarans, canoes and windsurfers; in regions where there is reliably good surf you might also come across boogie boards and surfboards, and seaside hostels often have a couple for guests’ use. If you want to get deeper under the skin of the surf community in New Zealand, or just beneﬁt from their local knowledge, take a squiz at W www .surf.co.nz and W www.surf2surf.co.nz.

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Most people spend days or weeks tramping in New Zealand with nothing worse than stiff legs and a few sandﬂy bites, but safety is nonetheless a serious issue and there are deaths every year. The culprit is usually New Zealand’s ﬁckle weather. It cannot be stressed too strongly that within an hour (even in high summer) a warm, cloudless day can turn bitterly cold, with high winds driving in thick banks of track-obscuring cloud. Heeding the weather forecast (posted in DOC ofﬁces) is some help, but there is no substitute for carrying warm, windproof and waterproof clothing. Failed river crossings are another common cause of tramping fatalities. If you are confronted with something that looks too dangerous to cross, then it is, and you should wait until the level falls or backtrack. If the worst happens and you get swept away while crossing, don’t try to stand up in fastﬂowing water; you may trap your leg between rocks and drown. Instead, lie on your back and ﬂoat feet ﬁrst until you reach a place where swimming to the bank seems feasible. If you do get lost or injured, your chances of being found are better if you left word of your intentions with a friend or with a trusted person at your next port of call, who will realize you are overdue. DOC ofﬁces do stock intention forms for you to declare your planned route and estimated ﬁnishing time but by the time they are checked you could have been missing too long for it to matter. While on the tramp, ﬁll in the hut logs as you go, so that your movements can be traced, and when you return check in with the folk you told about the trip. Animals are not a problem in the New Zealand bush. Kiwis never tire of reminding you there are no snakes, and only two poisonous spiders, extremely rarely encountered. You might stumble upon the odd irate wild pig but the biggest irritants are likely to be sandﬂies whose bites itch or kea, boisterous green parrots that delight in pinching anything they can get their beaks into and, in the spirit of Rutherford, tearing it apart to fulﬁl their curiosity.

Swimming, surﬁng and windsurﬁng

Sailing New Zealand’s numerous harbours, studded with small islands and ringed with deserted bays, make sailing one of Kiwis’ favourite pursuits, which explains why New Zealand and Kiwi sailors have been so inﬂuential in the fate of the America’s Cup (see Adrenalin heaven colour section). People sail yearround, but the summer months from December to March are busiest. Unless you manage to befriend a yachtie you’ll probably be limited to commercial yacht charters (expensive and usually with a skipper), more reasonably priced and often excellent daysailing trips, or renting a dinghy for some inshore antics.

Grading of rivers BASICS

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Both rivers and rapids are graded according to the scale below, the river grade dictated by the grade of its most demanding rapid. This lends itself to some creative marketing, and you need to take promotional material with a pinch of salt – a river hyped as Grade V might be almost entirely Grade III with one Grade V rapid. For maximum thrills and spills, the expression to look out for is “Continuous Grade …”. I Very easy; a few small waves. II A ﬂicker of interest, with choppier wave patterns. Dunking potential for inexperienced kayakers but no sweat in a raft. III Bigger but still easily ridden waves make this bouncy and fun. Good proving ground for novice rafters. IV Huge, less predictable waves churned up by rocks midstream make this excellent fun but dramatically increase the chance of a swim. V Serious stuff with chaotic standing waves, churning narrow channels and huge holes ready to swallow you up. Best avoided by ﬁrst-time rafters but thrilling nonetheless. VI Dicing with death; commercially unraftable and only shot by the most experienced of paddlers.

Scuba diving and snorkelling

The waters around New Zealand offer wonderful opportunities to scuba dive and snorkel. What they lack in long-distance visibility, tropical warmth and colourful ﬁsh they make up for with the range of diving environments. Pretty much anywhere along the more sheltered eastern side of both islands you’ll ﬁnd somewhere with rewarding snorkelling, but much the best and most accessible spot is the Goat Island Marine Reserve, in Northland, where there’s a superb range of habitats close to the shore. Northland also has world-class scuba diving at the Poor Knights Islands Marine Reserve, reached by boat from Tutukaka, and wreck diving on the Rainbow Warrior, from Matauri Bay. Other good spots include the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park, off Great Barrier Island near Auckland, and the deliberately sunk wreck near Wellington. On the South Island, there are wrecks worth exploring off Picton and fabulous growths of black and red corals relatively close to the surface, in the southwestern ﬁords near Milford. For the inexperienced, the easiest way to get a taste of what’s under the surface is to take a resort dive with an instructor. If you want to dive independently, you need to be PADI qualiﬁed. For more information, pick up

the free, comprehensive, bi-monthly Dive New Zealand brochure from dive shops and the bigger visitor centres, or consult their website at W www.divenewzealand.com.

Rafting The combination of challenging rapids and gorgeous scenery makes whitewater rafting one of the most thrilling of New Zealand’s adventure activities. Visitor numbers and weather restrict the main rafting season to October to May, and most companies set an age limit at twelve or thirteen. You’ll usually be supplied with everything except a swimming costume and an old pair of trainers. After safety instruction, you’ll be placed in eight-seater rafts along with a guide and directed through narrow, rockstrewn riverbeds, spending an average of a couple of hours on the water, before being ferried back for refreshments. Thrilling though it is, rafting is also one of the most dangerous of the adventure activities, claiming a number of lives in recent years. Operators have cleaned up their act with a self-imposed code of practice, but there are still cowboys out there. It might be stating the obvious but fatalities happen when people fall out of rafts: heed the guide’s instructions about how best to stay on board and how to protect yourself if you do get a dunking.

For details of the best rafting see the Adrenalin heaven colour section.

Jetboating The shallow, braided rivers of the high Canterbury sheep country posed access difﬁculties for run-owner Bill Hamilton, who got around the problem by inventing the Hamilton Jetboat in the early 1960s. His inspired invention could plane in as little as 100mm of water, reach prodigious speeds (up to 80km per hour) and negotiate rapids while maintaining astonishing, turn-on-asixpence manoeuvrability.

Bungy jumping and bridge swinging For maximum adrenalin, minimum risk and greatest expense, bungy jumping is difﬁcult to beat. For a bit of variety you could try a close relative of the bungy, bridge swinging, which provides a similar gutwrenching fall accompanied by a super-fast swing along a gorge while harnessed to a cable. See the Adrenalin heaven colour section for locations.

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New Zealand is a paddler’s paradise, and pretty much anywhere with water nearby has somewhere you can rent either canoes or kayaks. Sometimes this is simply an opportunity to muck around in boats but often there are guided trips available, with the emphasis being on soaking up the scenery. Grade II water is pretty much the limit for novices, making the scenic Whanganui River a perennial favourite. See the Adrenalin heaven colour section for details.

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Canoeing and kayaking

The jetboat carried its ﬁrst fare-paying passengers on a deep and glassy section of the Shotover River, which is still used by the pioneering Shotover Jet. Rides last around thirty eye-streaming minutes, time enough for hot dogging and as many 360-degree spins as anyone needs. Wilderness trips can last two hours or longer.

Canyoning The easiest way to get your hands on New Zealand rock is to go canyoning (or its near relative by the sea, coasteering), which involves following steep and conﬁned river gorges or streambeds down chutes and

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over waterfalls for a few hours, sliding, jumping and abseiling all the way. Guided trips are available in a handful of places, the most accessible being in Auckland, Queenstown, Turangi and Wanaka.

Mountaineering

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In the main, New Zealand is better suited to mountaineering than rock climbing, though most of what is available is fairly serious stuff, suitable only for well-equipped parties with a good deal of experience. For most people the only way to get above the snowline is to tackle the easy summit of

Mount Ruapehu, the North Island’s highest point, the summit of Mount Taranaki, near New Plymouth, or pay for a guided ascent of one of New Zealand’s classic peaks. Prime candidates are the country’s highest mountain, Aoraki Mount Cook (3754m), accessed from the climbers’ heartland of Aoraki Mount Cook Village, and New Zealand’s most beautiful peak, the pyramidal Mount Aspiring (3030m), approached from Wanaka. In both cases networks of climbers’ huts are used as bases for what are typically twenty-hour attempts on the summit.

Multi-day tours Tours that are included in this section involve taking part in one or other or, in extreme cases, all of the above activities. Although New Zealand is an easy place to explore independently, tours offer specialist insight, logistical help or just some company along the way.

Hiking and wildlife

Active Earth T 025/360 268 & 0800/201 040, Australia T1800/141 242, Wwww .activeearthnewzealand.com. Suitable for anyone who is reasonably ﬁt and wants to see things few other tourists will. Good-humoured and informative guides take small groups tramping, climbing and wilderness camping in virtually untouched country throughout the North Island – from $595 for ﬁve nights to $1120 for nine nights – excluding a daily food and camp-fee kitty (around $20 a day) and any extra adventure activities. Fiordland Ecology Holidays T 03/249 6600, W www.ﬁordland.gen.nz. These wonderful trips book up months in advance and take in Doubtful, Dusky and Breaksea sounds and Preservation Inlet, where you can snorkel and scuba dive and visit dolphins and seals (6 days; $1780). All proﬁts go into ecological projects. Hiking New Zealand T 027/436 0268 & 0800/697 232, Australia T 1800/141 242, W www.hikingnewzealand.com. Conservation-minded company, running outdoor trips and acting as agent for a number of like-minded operators that give them countrywide coverage. There’s everything from hiking trips around the far north of Northland (5 days; $595) and trekking down the West Coast of the South Island (10 days; $1120) to boat trips to New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic islands (8 days; $2467, plus $120 landing fees) – a camping and daily food fee of $20 a day applies. Kiwi Wildlife Tours T 09/422 6868, W www.kiwi-wildlife.co.nz. Upmarket smallgroup birding tours including day excursions from Auckland ($175 per person, $300 single supplement) and a comprehensive twenty-day all-inclusive NZ tour ($175 per day). Kiwi Wildlife Walks T 03/226 6739, W www.nzwalk.com. Expertly run guided walks in and around around Fiordland National Park and Stewart Island, where they go kiwi spotting (4 days; $995). Real Journeys T 03/249 6602, W www.realjourneys.co.nz. Trips include a cruise on the Milford Wanderer, taking in Milford, Doubtful, Dusky and Breaksea sounds (6 days; $1700), with onboard kayaks and a chance of seeing humpback whales.

Flying, skydiving and paragliding

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Almost every town in New Zealand seems to harbour an airstrip or a helipad, and there is inevitably someone happy to get you airborne for half an hour’s ﬂightseeing. The best of these cross the truly spectacular mountain scenery of the Southern Alps or the ice-sculpted terrain of Fiordland, either from Fox Glacier, Franz Josef Glacier, Mount Cook, Wanaka or Queenstown. Helicopters cost around ﬁfty percent more than planes and can’t cover the same distances but score on manoeuvrability and the chance to

land. If money is tight take a regular ﬂight somewhere you want to go anyway. First choice here would have to be the journey from either Wanaka or Queenstown to Milford Sound, which overﬂies the very best of Fiordland. In tandem skydiving, a double harness links you to an instructor, who has control of the parachute. After suitable tuition, the plane circles up to around 2500m and you leap out together, experiencing around 45 seconds of eerie freefall before the instructor pulls the ripcord. Again, the Southern Alps and Fiordland are popular jumping grounds,

Ruggedy Range T 03/219 1066, Wwww.ruggedyrange.com. Stewart Island-based company offering enthusiastic and entertaining trips to Ulva Island and Masons Bay visiting the unique wildlife (3 days; $1950).

Cycling, horse-riding and kayaking Adventure South T 03/941 1222, W www.advsouth.co.nz. This environmentally conscious company runs guided cycling and multi-activity tours around the South Island, with accommodation in characterful lodges or track huts. Consider six days cycling along the West Coast of the South Island ($2390), seven days hiking in the South Island ($2990), and “Remarkable Tours”, fourteen days throughout the country ($5890). All tours carry a single supplement. Alpine Horse Safaris, Waitohi Downs T03/314 4293, W www.alpinehorse.co.nz. Treks intended for serious riders, including food and accommodation, that follow old mining tracks well away from civilization, or at least roads, for short (4 days; $930) or longer (12 days; $3275) trips. Cycle Touring Company T09/436 0033, Wwww.cycletours.co.nz. Tailored self-led or guided tours of Northland, with several routes of two to twenty-one days, and the option to have your gear carried for you. Accommodation is in lodges and homestays (or a cheaper backpacker option) and prices are around $2073 for seven nights if their bus carries your gear, $1702 if you carry it. New Zealand Sea Kayak Adventures T09/402 8596, Wwww.nzkayaktours.com. Fully catered Northland- and Bay of Islands-based guided sea kayak camping tours for three ($525), six ($1050) or ten days ($1500). Trips are quite adventurous but they cater to a full range of abilities and offer occasional women-only trips. Paciﬁc Cycle Tours T03/982 9913, UK freephone 0800/234 6780, US freephone 1-800/732 0921, Wwww.bike-nz.com. Christchurch-based mountain-bike, road-bike and hiking tours round both islands with varying degrees of adventurousness, including a Southern Jewel bike tour (14 days; $4825) and Hiking Highlights (19 days; $4865). Pakiri Beach Horse Riding T09/422 6275, Wwww.horseride-nz.co.nz. Highly professional multi-day tours through native bush and along clifftops including an epic Coast to Coast trip (7 days; $2995). Pedaltours T 09/585 1338, US freephone T 1-888/222-9187, W www.pedaltours.co .nz. Guided road- and mountain-biking tours of both islands, from a week-long ride around the Nelson Lakes ($2695) to a full sixteen-day Grand Tour of the South Island (around $5995). High-standard accommodation and hearty meals are included, and bikes can be rented if needed (cost depends on tour).

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but Taupo has established itself as the lowcost, reliable venue with the most choice. A hill, a gentle breeze and substantial tourist presence and you’ve all the ingredients for tandem paragliding, where you and an instructor jointly launch off a hilltop, slung below a manoeuvrable parachute, for perhaps ten to twenty minutes of graceful gliding and stomach-churning banked turns. Alternatively tandem hang-gliding or parasailing are usually available.

Skiing and snowboarding New Zealand’s ski season (roughly June– Nov) starts as snows on northern hemisphere slopes melt away, which, combined with the South Island’s backbone of 3000-metre peaks, the North Island’s equally lofty volcanoes and the relative cheapness of the skiing means New Zealand is an increasingly popular international ski destination. Most ﬁelds are geared to the domestic downhill market, and the eastern side of the Southern Alps is littered with club ﬁelds sporting a handful of rope tows, simple lifts and a motley collection of private ski lodges. They’re open to all-comers, but some are only accessible by 4WD vehicles, others have a long walk in, and ski schools are almost unheard of. Throughout the country there are, however, a dozen exceptions to this norm: commercial resorts, with highspeed chairs, ski schools, gear rental and groomed wide-open slopes. What you won’t ﬁnd are massive on-site resorts of the scale found in North America and Europe; skiers commute daily to the slopes from nearby après-ski towns and gear rental is either from shops in these or on the ﬁeld. The best up-to-date source of skiing information is the annual Ski & Snowboard Guide published by Brown Bear Publications, PO Box 13717, 39 Carlisle St, Sydenham, Christchurch (T03/358 0935, W www.brownbear.co.nz). It is freely downloadable from their website, and the printed guide can be picked up from visitor centres and ski area hotels for a couple of bucks. For each ﬁeld it gives a detailed rundown of facilities, season length, lift ticket prices and an indication of suitability for beginners, intermediates and advanced skiers. Heli-skiing is also dealt with and

there’s coverage of the main ski towns. Another website for all things skiing in New Zealand is Wwww.snow.co.nz. For the best skiing locations, see the Adrenalin heaven colour section.

Fishing Kiwis grow up ﬁshing: virtually everyone seems to have fond memories of long days out on a small boat trailing a line for snapper, if only to stock the beachside barbecue. All around the New Zealand coast there are low-key canoe, yacht and launch trips on which there is always time for a little casual ﬁshing, but you’ll also ﬁnd plenty of trips aimed at more dedicated anglers. Most sea excursions look to land something of modest size with good ﬂavour: snapper, kahawai, moki or ﬂounder. Bigger boats might hope for hapuku, then there’s a step up to the biggame ﬁshing boats. From December to May these scout the seas off the northern half of the North Island for marlin, shark and tuna. Regulations and bag limits are covered on the Ministry of Fisheries website, W www .ﬁsh.govt.nz. Inland, the rivers and lakes are choked with rainbow and brown trout, quinnat and Atlantic salmon, all introduced for sport at the end of the nineteenth century. Certain areas have gained enviable reputations: Lake Taupo is world-renowned for the abundance and ﬁghting quality of its rainbow trout; South Island rivers, particularly around Gore, boast the ﬁnest brown trout in the land; and the braided gravel-bed rivers draining the eastern slopes of the Southern Alps bear superb salmon. A national ﬁshing licence ($96 for the year from Oct 1–Sept 30 and $19 for 24 hours) covers all New Zealand’s lakes and rivers except for those in the Taupo catchment area, where a local licensing arrangement applies. They’re available from sports shops everywhere and directly from Fish and Game NZ (W www.ﬁshandgame.org.nz), the agency responsible for managing freshwater sports ﬁsheries. The website also lists bag limits and local regulations. Wherever you ﬁsh, regulations are taken seriously and are rigidly enforced. If you’re found with an undersize catch or an over-full bag, heavy ﬁnes may be imposed and

Horse trekking

Mountain biking If you prefer a smaller saddle, you’ll ﬁnd a stack of places renting out mountain bikes. The main trail-biking areas around Rotorua, Queenstown, Mount Cook and Hanmer Springs will often have a couple of companies willing to take you out on guided rides, usually dropping you at the top of the hill and picking you up at the bottom. For information about Kiwi off-road biking consult Wwww.mountainbike.co.nz. Mountain bikes aren’t allowed off-road in national parks and reserves, and elsewhere you must respect the enjoyment of others by letting walkers know of your presence, avoiding skid damage to tracks and keeping your speed down. For more information, consult the speciﬁc biking guides available in New Zealand, including the “Kennett brothers” book (see p.921).

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New Zealand’s highly urbanized population leaves a huge amount of countryside available for horse trekking, occasionally along beaches, often through patches of native bush and tracts of farmland; there may even be an opportunity to swim the horses. There are schools everywhere and all levels of experience are catered for, but more experienced riders might prefer the greater scope of full-day or even week-long wilderness treks (see p.67). We’ve highlighted some noteworthy places and operators throughout the Guide, and there’s a smattering of others listed at Wwww .truenz.co.nz/horsetrekking. As there are no nationwide safety standards, it’s worth

establishing your own and only using operators who offer riding helmets.

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equipment conﬁscated. Be sure to ﬁnd out the local regulations before you set out. Other ﬁshy websites include Wwww Wwww .ﬁshinginnewzealand.com and .ﬁshing.net.nz.

Spectator sports If God were a rugby coach almost every New Zealander would be a religious fundamentalist. News coverage often gives headline prominence to sport, particularly the All Blacks, and entire radio stations are devoted to sports talkback, usually dwelling on occasions when Kiwi underdogs overcome better-funded teams from more populous nations. Kiwis are by and large an active bunch, most preferring to ﬁsh, play some form of sport or tramp. As elsewhere, most major sports events are televised. Increasingly these are on subscription channels such as Sky TV, which encourages a devoted following in pubs with large-screen TVs. Anyone with a keen interest in sport or just a desire to see the less reserved side of the Kiwi character should attend a rugby game. Local papers advertise games along with ticket booking details. Bookings for many of the bigger events can be made through Ticketek (W www.ticketek.co.nz), although,

except for the over-subscribed internationals and season ﬁnals, you can usually just buy a ticket at the gate.

Rugby Opponents quake in their boots at the sight of ﬁfteen strapping All Blacks, the national rugby team, performing their pre-match haka, and few spectators remain unmoved. Kiwi hearts swell at the sight, secure in the knowledge that their national team is always amongst the world’s best, and anything less

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than a resounding victory is considered a case for national mourning in the leader columns of the newspapers. However, the All Blacks’ relative failure in the four-yearly Rugby World Cup – in 2007 they were knocked out by the French – means the team doesn’t quite carry the respect it once merited, particularly after the protracted national witch hunt of 2007 which curiously resulted in the re-appointment of the failed coach, Graham Henry. Rugby (or Rugby Union, though it is seldom called this in New Zealand) is played through the winter, the season kicking off with the Super 14 series (mid-Feb to May) in which regional southern hemisphere teams (ﬁve from NZ, ﬁve from South Africa and four from Australia, though controversially none from the Paciﬁc Islands) play each other with the top four teams going on to contest the ﬁnals series. Super 14 players make up the All Black team which, through the middle of winter, hosts an international test series or two, including the annual tri-nations series (mid-July to August) against South Africa and Australia. Games between the All Blacks and Australia also contest the Bledisloe Cup, which creates much desired bragging rights for one or other nation for a year. The international season often runs over into the National Provincial Championship (NPC), played from the middle of August until the end of October. Each province has a team, the bigger competing in the ﬁrst division with the minor provinces generally ﬁlling up the second division. At the time of writing, Auckland held the Ranfurly Shield (W www.ranfurlyshield .com), affectionately known as the “log of wood”. Throughout the season, the holders accept challenges at their home ground, and the winner takes all. Occasionally minor teams will wrest the shield, and in the smaller provinces this is a huge source of pride, subsequent defences prompting a huge swelling of community spirit. Tickets for Super 14 games cost around $45, with international games costing a little more and NPC matches much less. For more information visit the NZ Rugby Union’s ofﬁcial website W www.nzrugby.co.nz, or the more newsy Wwww.TheSilverFern.co.nz.

Rugby league (Wwww.rugbyleague.co.nz and W www.nzrl.co.nz) has always been regarded as rugby’s poor cousin, though success at international level has raised its proﬁle. Rugby League’s World Cup was last held in 2000 with the NZ Kiwis only losing out in the ﬁnal to their perennial nemesis, Australia. New Zealand’s only signiﬁcant provincial team are the Auckland-based Warriors, who play in Australia’s NRL during the March to early September season. The top eight teams in the league go through to the ﬁnals series in September, and though the Warriors haven’t done especially well in recent years, they did make it into the ﬁnal eight in 2007. Home games are usually played at Ericsson Stadium, where you can buy tickets at the gate.

Cricket Attending a rugby match is something you shouldn’t miss if you have the chance, but most visitors spend their time in New Zealand from October to March, when the stadiums are turned over to the country’s traditional summer sport, cricket (W www .nzcricket.co.nz). The national team – the Black Caps – hover around mid-table in international test and one-day rankings but periodic ﬂashes of brilliance – and the odd unexpected victory over Australia – keep fans interested. Unless you are an aﬁcionado, cricket is an arcane game and much of the pleasure of attending is sitting in the sun with a beer in your hand soaking up the ambience. You can usually just turn up at a ground and buy a ticket (around $30), though games held around Christmas and New Year ﬁll up fast and internationals sell out in advance.

Other sports Other team sports lag far behind rugby and cricket, though women’s netball (W www .netballnz.co.nz) has an enthusiastic following and live TV coverage of international ﬁxtures involving the Silver Ferns get good audiences. Soccer in New Zealand has always been thought of as slightly effete (especially in macho rugby-playing circles) though there are now more youngsters playing soccer than rugby. The nation’s only representative in the

| Culture and etiquette

point for round-the-world yacht races and has twice hosted the America’s Cup. New Zealand’s Olympic heritage is patchy, with occasional clutches of medals from rowing and yachting and a long pedigree of middle-distance runners, particularly in the 1960s with Murray Halberg and Peter Snell, and in the 1970s with John Walker, Dick Quax and Rod Dixon. These days, however, multi-event championships and endurance events like triathlons and Iron Man races seem to dominate.

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Australian National Soccer League (NSL; Wwww.footballaustralia.com.au), are the Wellington Phoenix (Wwww.wellingtonphoenix .com). The season runs from October to early April and home games are played (usually on Fri or Sat evenings) at Westpac Stadium in Wellington; tickets (around $37) can be bought at the gate or on the team’s website. Beyond these major team sports there is a reasonable following for women’s softball and men’s and women’s basketball. In recent years yachting has attracted heightened interest: Auckland is a frequent midway

Culture and etiquette Ever since Maori settled in the land they named Aotearoa, New Zealand has been a nation of immigrants. The majority trace their roots back to Britain and Ireland, and northern European culture prevails with a strong Maori and Polynesian inﬂuence. Decades of attempted assimilation have now been replaced by a policy of bi-culturalism with Maori and Pakeha (white European) values at least nominally given equal status. In practice, British inﬂuences remain strong: the operation of Parliament and the legal system rooted in the old country, and the Queen continues as head of state and beams out from all coins and the $20 note. Still, Maori are very much part of contemporary New Zealand society (see Maori in the modern world colour section). On the surface many seem integrated with the mainstream, but there’s also a parallel Maori world you’ll rarely see as a tourist, though some idea can be gleaned from commercial cultural tours. Occasionally Maori get fed up with perceived (and often real) injustices, and protests are fairly common. The racial tension that does exists mostly stays below the surface, and as a visitor you’ll experience little and probably come away from New Zealand with the impression of a relatively tolerant society. In the last couple of decades Asian immigration (principally from China and Korea, but also from the Indian subcontinent) has skyrocketed. Asians currently make up around seven percent of the population (around half that of Maori) but in the Auckland region Asians comprise over

eighteen percent of the total. Currently Asians mostly live outside the mainstream of society but as they and their children gradually integrate some form of tri-culturalism will become a possibility. Notwithstanding this mix, the archetypal Kiwi personality is rooted in the desire to make a better life in a unique and sometimes unaccommodating land. New Zealanders are inordinately fond of stories of plucky little Kiwis overcoming great odds and succeeding, perceiving the New Zealand persona to be rooted in self-reliance, inventiveness and bravery, tempered by a certain self-deprecating humour. Over-achieving “tall poppies” are routinely cut down. Sport is a huge passion; the country has consistently punched above its weight in international competition, especially on the rugby ﬁeld where the All Blacks are frequently at the top of the world rankings. Indeed,

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| Living in New Zealand

repeated losses in the Rugby World Cup (which Kiwis believe should be theirs by right) are cause for national mourning. Despite a reputation for having a rugbyplaying, beer-swilling, male-dominated culture, Kiwis like to point out that they run an open-minded and egalitarian society. In 1893, New Zealand became the ﬁrst country with women’s suffrage, generous pensions and free public health followed in the ﬁrst half of the twentieth century, and in 1985 New Zealand declared its waters nuclear-free, angering its US and Australian defence partners. Broadly liberal social attitudes prevail with Japanese whaling and genetic modiﬁcation hot topics. New Zealand’s relationship with its larger neighbour is a cause for endless entertainment on both sides of the Tasman. Kiwis and Aussies are like siblings: there are lots of scraps (mostly verbal), especially when it comes to sport, but they’re the ﬁrst to jump to each other’s defence in everything from military conﬂict to pub brawls. Mostly it is just good-natured ribbing but you won’t be in New Zealand long before you hear something disparaging about Australians. Of

course, accusations of sheep-shagging go both ways.

Etiquette “Gidday!” is as Kiwi as it is Australian, though you’re also likely to be greeted with “Kia ora!” (Hi) or, more likely, “Kia ora, bro!” (Hi, mate). Dress standards are as informal as the greetings and unless you’re on business or have a diplomatic function to attend you can leave your suit and tie at home; even the ﬁnest restaurants only require smart attire. The more pretentious nightclubs operate dress policies, mostly nothing more than a ban on work clothes and trainers. Nudity on beaches is pretty rare, but as long as you are reasonably discreet no one is likely to be too bothered. Smoking is increasingly outlawed. It is banned on all public transport, in public buildings and is only permitted in outdoor areas of restaurants, cafés and bars. Cigarettes are expensive and best bought duty-free on arrival. The Kiwi attitude to tipping is pleasingly uncomplicated. No tip is expected, though reward for excellent service in eating places is appreciated.

Living in New Zealand New Zealand is the sort of place people come for a short visit and end up wanting to stay (at least for a few months). Unless you have substantial ﬁnancial backing that will probably mean ﬁnding some work. And while your earning potential in New Zealand isn’t necessarily going to be that great, you can at least supplement your budget for multiple bungy jumps, skydiving lessons and the like. Paid casual work is typically in tourism-linked service industries, or in orchard work.

For the last few years unemployment has been impressively low and ﬁnding casual work shouldn’t be that difﬁcult. Even betterpaid, short-term professional jobs are quite possible if you have the skills. Employment agencies are a good bet for this sort of work, or simply look at general job-search websites such as Wsearch4jobs.co.nz and the jobs

section of Wwww.trademe.co.nz. The minimum wage for all legally employed folk over the age of 18 is $12 an hour but if you’d rather not tackle the red tape you can simply reduce your travelling costs by working for your board. The Immigration Department still consider this to be work but are unlikely to track you down.

Working for board and lodging

Australians can work legally work in New Zealand without any paperwork. Otherwise, if you’re aged 18 to 30, the easiest way to work legally is through the Working Holiday Scheme, which gives you a temporary work permit valid for twelve months. An unlimited number of Brits and Dutch (plus 2800 Irish

| Living in New Zealand

Visas, permits and red tape

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A popular way of getting around the country cheaply is to work for your keep, typically toiling for 4–6 hours a day in return for board and lodging. FHiNZ (Farm Helpers in New Zealand; Wwww.fhinz.co.nz), organize stays on farms, orchards and horticultural holdings for singles, couples and families, and no experience is needed. Almost 200 places are listed in their booklet ($25; apply online) and accommodation ranges from basic to quite luxurious. The international WWOOF (Wwww .wwoof.co.nz) coordinates over a thousand properties (membership, for one or a couple, and booklet $40), mostly farms but also orchards, market gardens and self-sufﬁciency-orientated smallholdings, all using organic methods to a greater or lesser degree. They’ll expect a stay of at least three nights, though much longer periods are common; armed with their booklet, you book direct (preferably a week or more in advance). Most hosts will work you three to four hours a day and vary the tasks to keep you interested, but there have been occasional reports of taskmasters; make sure you discuss what will be expected of you before you commit yourself. Property managers are vetted but lone women may feel happier seeking placements with couples or families. Women taking up work through other organizations have fewer guarantees, though many are perfectly reputable operations. A similar organization is the online Help Exchange (Wwww.helpx.net), which supplies a regularly updated list of hosts on farms as well as at homestays, B&Bs, hostels and lodges, who need extra help for an average of four hours a day (sometimes less), in return for meals and accommodation; you register online for free and book direct.

citizens, 2000 Canadians, and assorted Americans, Brazilians, French, Italians, Germans, Japanese, Koreans, Singaporeans and Malaysians) are eligible each year on a ﬁrst-come-ﬁrst-served basis; apply as far in advance as you can. You’ll need a passport, NZ$120 for the application, evidence of a return ticket to New Zealand (or the funds to pay for it), and the equivalent of NZ$4200 to show you can support yourself. Brits can alternatively apply for a 23-month stay. Applications are made through the New Zealand Immigration Service (T09/914 4100, W www.immigration.govt.nz), which has all the details and downloadable forms on its website. Over-30s can’t join the Working Holiday Scheme, and the only legal option is trying to get full immigrant status – not something to be tackled lightly. Some visitors are tempted to work illegally, something for which you could be ﬁned or deported. In practice, the authorities sometimes turn a blind eye to infringements, especially during the fruit-picking season, when there isn’t enough local labour to ﬁll demand. Anyone working in New Zealand (including, oddly, those working illegally without permits) needs to obtain a tax number from the local Inland Revenue Department ofﬁce (W www.ird.govt.nz), a process that can take a week or more, though you can still work while the wheels of bureaucracy turn. If you don’t have a number then you may ﬁnd your employer has trouble paying you, and that the authorities will be more likely to take an interest in you. The tax department rakes in 24 per cent of your earnings and you probably won’t be able to reclaim any of this. Many companies will also only pay wages into a bank account, so you may need to open one, which is easy (see p.81).

Casual work One of the main sources of casual work is picking fruit or related orchard work such as packing or pruning and thinning. The main areas to consider are Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands for citrus and kiwifruit, Hastings in Hawke’s Bay for apples, pears and peaches, Tauranga and Te Puke for kiwifruit, and Alexandra and Cromwell in

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| Living in New Zealand 74

Central Otago for stonefruit. Most work is available during the autumn picking season, which runs roughly from January to May, but this is also when most people are looking for work so you can often ﬁnd something just as easily in the off season. In popular working areas, some hostels cater to short-term workers, and these are usually the best places to ﬁnd out what’s happening. Picking can be hard and heavy work and payment is usually by the quantity gathered, rather than by the hour. When you’re starting off, the poor returns can be frustrating but with persistence and application you can soon ﬁnd yourself pulling in a decent wage. Don’t expect to earn a fortune, but in an eight-hour day you should gross $90–130. Rates do vary considerably so it’s worth asking around, factoring in any meals and accommodation, which are sometimes included. Indoor packing work tends to be paid hourly. Finding other types of casual work is more ad hoc, with no recognized channels other than newspapers and hostel noticeboards; just keep your ear to the ground, particularly in popular tourist areas – Rotorua, Nelson, Queenstown – where people running cafés, bars and hostels often need extra staff during peak periods. If you have no luck, try your chances in more out-of-the-way locales, where there’ll be fewer travellers clamouring for work. Bar and restaurant work usually pays around $12–18 an hour and tips are negligible. Generally you’ll need to commit to at least three months. Ski resorts occasionally employ people during the June to October season, usually in catering roles. The traditional $12–16 an hour may be supplemented by a lift pass and subsidized food and drink, though ﬁnding affordable accommodation can be difﬁcult and may offset a lot of what you gain. Hiring clinics for ski and snowboard instructors are usually held at the beginning of the season at a small cost, though if you are experienced it is better to apply directly to the resort beforehand. Local hostels and backpackers are always good places to hear about likely work opportunities, and there are a number of handy resources and websites.

Perhaps the best is NZ Job Search, base ACB, 229 Queen St, Auckland (T 09/357 3996, W www.nzjs.co.nz), which details the legalities, helps place people in jobs, and guides its clients through setting up bank accounts and dealing with the IRD. A new Christchurch ofﬁce is planned: check the website for details. For fruit picking and the like it’s also worth checking out sites such as W www .seasonalwork.co.nz and W www.job.co.nz.

Volunteering A useful starting point is the online service from the UK-based The Gapyear Company (W www.gapyear.com), who offer free membership plus heaps of information on volunteering, travel, contacts and living abroad. The Department of Conservation’s Conservation Volunteer Programme (search at W www.doc.govt.nz) provides an excellent way to spend time out in the New Zealand bush while putting something back into the environment. Often you will get into areas most visitors never see, and learn some skills while you’re at it. Projects include bat surveys, kiwi monitoring and nest protection, as well as more rugged

transport. Programmes are often booked up well in advance so it pays to send in an application (forms available on the website) before you reach New Zealand.

Costs The relatively high Kiwi dollar means that New Zealand is no longer the bargain it once was, but with high standards of quality and service the country is still good value for money. Daily costs vary enormously, and the following estimates are per person for two people travelling together. If you are on a tight budget, using public transport, camping or staying in hostels, and cooking most of your own meals, you could scrape by on $50 a day. A couple renting a car, staying in budget motels, and eating out a fair bit are looking at more like $120–150 per person. Step up to comfortable B&Bs and nicer restaurants, then throw in a few trips, and you can easily ﬁnd yourself spending over $300 a day. With the prevalence of good hostels, single travellers can live almost as cheaply as couples, though you’ll pay around thirty percent more if you want a room to yourself. Though you are unlikely to return from New Zealand laden with souvenirs, you can completely blow your budget on adventure trips such as a bungy jump (around $150) or tandem parachuting ($240 and up). If you’ve got the money, by all means spend it; if not, it pays to think carefully about how best to get the maximum bang for your bucks. New Zealanders are a straightforward bunch and the price quoted is what you pay. In almost all cases, the 12.5 percent Goods and Service Tax (GST) is included in the listed price, except for some business hotels, where rates will be clearly marked GST-exclusive.

| Travel Essentials

Travel Essentials

BASICS

tasks like track maintenance, tree planting and hut repair – all detailed on the website. You can muck in for just a day or up to a couple of weeks, and sometimes there is a fee (perhaps $50–200) to cover food and

GST exemption is available on more expensive items bought at shops bearing the “Duty-Free Shopping” sticker that are to be sent or taken out of the country. Student discounts are few and far between, but you can make substantial savings on accommodation and travel by buying one of the backpacker or YHA cards (see p.47); kids (see p.85) enjoy reductions of around ﬁfty percent on most trains, buses and entry to many sights.

Crime and personal safety New Zealand’s rates of violent crime are in line with those in other developed countries and you’ll almost certainly hear some grizzly stories through the news media. Still, as long as you use your common sense and don’t drop your guard just because you’re on holiday, you’re unlikely to run into any trouble. Some caution is needed in the seedier quarters of the larger cities where it is unwise for lone women to walk late at night. Obviously the more isolated a spot the less chance of getting help. One major safety issue is the increasing number of “boy racers” using city and town streets as racetracks for customized cars, leading to bystander fatalities. Although the police do take action they are relatively thin on the ground so it’s worth being on your toes when out late in city suburbs. Theft can also be a problem. There is rarely any stealing in hostels apart from the odd case of mistaken identity when it comes to food in the fridge, although it

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| Travel Essentials

doesn’t do any harm to lock away stuff if you can. Car and campervan break-ins are a more widespread problem. When staying in cities it’s easy enough (and a good idea) to move valuables into your lodging, but thieves also prey on visitors’ vehicles left at trailheads and while you go to take a picture of a waterfall. Campervans containing all your travelling possessions make obvious and easy pickings. When you leave your vehicle, take your valuables with you, and put packs and bags out of sight as much as possible. Beyond this, there isn’t really a great deal you can do except get good insurance. When setting out on long walks use a secure car park if possible, where your vehicle will be kept safe for a small sum.

Police and the law As everywhere, there are cases of corruption and brutality but on the whole the police are friendly and helpful. If you do get arrested, you will be allowed one phone call; a solicitor will be appointed if you cannot afford one and you may be able to claim legal aid. It is unlikely that your consulate will take more than a passing interest unless there is something strange or unusual about the case against you. The laws regarding alcohol consumption have traditionally been pretty lenient, though persistent rowdy behaviour has encouraged some towns to ban drinking in public spaces. Still, most of the time nobody’s going to bother you if you fancy a beer on the beach or glass of wine at some wayside picnic area. Unless you are actively causing trouble, the police are tolerant. The same does not apply to drink driving (see p.38), which is taken very seriously. Marijuana has a reputation for being very potent and relatively easily available. It is, however, illegal and although a certain amount of tolerance is sometimes shown towards personal use, the police and courts take a

Emergency phone calls 76

T111 is the free emergency telephone number to summon the police, ambulance or ﬁre service.

dim view of larger quantities and hard drugs, handing out long custodial sentences. New Zealand is, surprisingly, sixth in the world for methamphetamine usage, according to a recent survey. “Party Pills” – available, until recently, from high street shops and popular with some clubbers – are now illegal. Most large-scale drug trafﬁcking seems to be gang controlled, with around 2000 street gang members in Auckland alone. Gangs originated in the 1960s, with the Mongrel Mob and Black Power (who still exist), but have evolved to resemble their American counterparts. These days there are more gangs engaging in a broader range of activity, though tourists are about as likely to experience this ﬁrst hand as they are a poisonous spider.

Prejudice New Zealanders like to think of themselves as a tolerant and open-minded people, and foreign visitors are generally welcomed with open arms. Racism is far from unknown, but you’re unlikely to experience overt discrimination or be refused service because of your race, colour or gender. In out-of-the-way rural pubs, women, foreigners, and just about anyone who doesn’t live within a 10km radius, may get a frosty reception, though this breaks down once you get talking. Despite constant efforts to maintain good relations between Maori and Pakeha (white New Zealanders), tensions do exist. Ever since colonization, Maori have achieved lower educational standards, earned less and maintained disproportionately high rates of unemployment and imprisonment. Slowly Maori are getting some restitution for the wrongs perpetrated on their race, which of course plays into the hands of those who feel that such positive discrimination is unfair. “After all, we’re all New Zealanders” is a refrain often heard, particularly of late, with the arrest of Maori activists in October 2007 on terrorism charges, later dropped. Recent high levels of immigration from East Asia – Hong Kong, China and Taiwan in particular – have rapidly changed the demographics in Auckland, where most have settled. Central Auckland also has several English-language schools that are mostly full of Asian students. The combined effect

New Zealand operates a 230/240volt, 50Hz AC power supply, and sockets take a threeprong, ﬂat-pin type of plug. Suitable socket adaptors are widely available in New Zealand and at most international airports; and for phone chargers and laptops that’s all you’ll need. In most other cases, North American appliances require both a transformer and an adaptor, British and Irish equipment needs only an adaptor and Australian appliances need no alteration.

Entry requirements All visitors to New Zealand need a passport, which must be valid for at least three months beyond the time you intend to stay. When ﬂying to New Zealand you’ll probably need to show you have an onward or return ticket before they’ll let you board the plane. On arrival, British citizens are automatically issued with a permit to stay for up to six months, and a three-month permit is granted to citizens of most other European countries, Southeast Asian nations, Japan, South Africa, the USA and Canada, and several other countries. Australian citizens and permanent residents can stay indeﬁnitely. Other nationalities need to obtain a visitor visa in advance from a New Zealand embassy, costing the local equivalent of NZ$130 and usually valid for three months. Visas are issued by the New Zealand Immigration Service (Wwww.immigration.govt.nz). For foreign embassies and consulates in New Zealand see the “Listings” sections of the Auckland and Wellington chapters, on p.135 and p.489 respectively.

Embassies and consulates abroad Websites and contact details for all New Zealand embassies and consulates abroad can be found at Wwww.nzembassy.com.

Quarantine and customs

| Travel Essentials

Electricity

Australia Canberra T02/6270 4211, E nzhccba @bigpond.net.au; and consulates in Sydney and Melbourne. Canada Ottawa T 613/238-5991, Einfo @nzhcottawa.org; and consulates in Toronto and Vancouver. South Africa Pretoria T012/342 8656, [emailprotected]; and an honorary consul in Cape Town. UK and Ireland London T020/7930 8422, [emailprotected]; and honorary consuls in Belfast, Dublin and Edinburgh. USA Washington T202/328-4800, Einfo@nzemb .org; and consulates in New York and Los Angeles.

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means that in parts of Auckland, especially downtown, longer-established New Zealanders are in the minority. It is a sensation that some Maori and Pakeha ﬁnd faintly disturbing. There’s little overt racism, but neither is there much mixing.

In a country all too familiar with the damage that can be caused by introduced plants and animals, New Zealand’s Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry (MAF; W www.maf. govt.nz/quarantine) takes a hard line. On arrival you’ll be asked to declare any food, plants or parts of plants, animals (dead or alive), equipment used with animals, camping gear, golf clubs, bicycles, biological specimens and hiking boots. Outdoor equipment and walking boots will be taken away, inspected and perhaps cleaned then returned a few minutes later. After a long ﬂight it can all seem a bit of a pain, but such precautions are important and there are huge ﬁnes for non-compliance. Be sure to dispose of any fresh fruit, vegetables and meat in the bins provided or you are liable for an instant $200 ﬁne (even for that orange you forgot about in the bottom of your bag). Processed foods are usually allowed through, but must be declared. Visitors aged 18 and over are entitled to a duty-free allowance (Wwww.customs.govt .nz) of 200 cigarettes (or 250 grams of tobacco, or 50 cigars), 4.5 litres of wine or beer, three 1125ml bottles of spirits, and up to $700 worth of goods. There are export restrictions on wildlife, plants, antiquities and works of art.

Gay and lesbian travellers New Zealand is a broadly gay-friendly place, defying the odds in what has always been perceived as a fairly macho country. There remains an undercurrent of redneck

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| Travel Essentials

intolerance, particularly in rural areas, but it generally stays well below the surface. Homosexuality was decriminalized in 1986 and the age of consent was set at sixteen (the same as for heterosexuals). The human rights section of the legislation was passed in 1993, with none of the usual exceptions made for the military or the police. This also makes it illegal to discriminate against gays and people with HIV or AIDS, and makes no limitation on people with HIV or AIDS entering the country. The mainstream acceptance is such that the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra is quite upfront about one of its most prominent composers, Gareth Farr, doubling as a drag queen. This tolerant attitude has conspired to de-ghettoize the gay community; even in Auckland and Wellington, the only cities with genuinely vibrant gay scenes, there aren’t any predominantly gay areas and most venues have a mixed clientele. Auckland’s scene is generally the largest and most lively, but the intimate nature of Wellington makes it more accessible and welcoming. Christchurch has a few predominantly gay venues in the inner city, and Nelson has a moderately active gay community centred on Thursday nights at the Spectrum drop-in centre, 42 Franklyn St (7.30–10.30pm; T 03/545 0814). Elsewhere it’s hard to ﬁnd a gay network to plug into; even Queenstown is fairly quiet, though it has a gay information service at W www.gayqueenstown.com. Major events on the gay calendar include Auckland’s Hero Festival (see box, p.132)

each February and the annual Vinegar Hill Summer Camp, held just outside the small town of Hunterville, in the middle of the North Island, from Boxing Day to just after New Year. It’s a very laid-back affair, with a couple of hundred gay men and women camping out, mixing and partying. There’s no charge (except a few dollars for camping), no tickets and no hot water, but a large river runs through the grounds and everyone has a great time. The best source of on-the-ground information is the gay newspaper Express (fortnightly, free; Wwww.gayexpress.co.nz), which is available free in almost any decent bookstore and graces the magazine racks of gay-friendly cafés and venues. Also keep your eyes peeled for the national bi-monthly OUT! (W www.out.co.nz).

Health New Zealand is relatively free of serious health hazards and the most common pitfalls are not taking precautions or simply underestimating the power of nature. No vaccinations are required to enter the country, but you should make sure you have adequate health cover in your travel insurance, especially if you plan to take on the great outdoors (see p.63 for advice on tramping health and safety). New Zealand has a good health service that’s reasonably cheap by world standards. All visitors are covered by the accident compensation scheme, under which you can claim some medical and hospital expenses

Gay travel websites

Wwww.gaynewzealand.com A virtual tour of the country with a gay and lesbian slant. Wwww.gaytravel.net.nz A gay online accommodation and travel reservation service. Wwww.adventureout.co.nz Small-group outdoor adventure holidays for gay men. Wwww.gay.co.nz Provides travel information aimed at gay, lesbian and bisexual visitors, and vets businesses for standards of service and hospitality. Wwww.gaynz.net.nz A useful website that gives direct access to all manner of gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender information including the Pink Pages, essentially a collection of linked pages including what’s on in the gay community and a calendar of events all over the country. Wwww.rainbowtourism.com An excellent resource for gay and lesbian travellers in both NZ and Oz, listing accommodation, events, clubs and tours.

Visitors to New Zealand frequently get caught out by the intensity of the sun, its damaging ultra violet rays easily penetrating the thin ozone layer and reducing burn times to as little as ten minutes in spring and summer. Stay out of the sun (or keep covered up) as much as possible between 11am and 3pm, and always slap on plenty of sunblock. Re-apply every few hours as well as after swimming, and keep a check on any moles on your body: if you notice any changes, during or after your trip, see a doctor right away. The sea is a more immediate killer and even strong swimmers should read our surf warning (see box, p.139). New Zealand is regularly shaken by earthquakes, but most are minor and it is not something to worry about. If the worst happens, the best advice is to stand in a doorway or crouch under a table. If caught in the open, try to get inside; failing that, keep your distance from trees and rocky outcrops to reduce the chances of being injured by falling branches or debris.

Wildlife hazards New Zealand’s wildlife is amazingly benign. There are no snakes, scorpions or other nasties, and only a few poisonous spiders, all rarely seen. No one has died from an encounter with a spider for many years but if you get a serious reaction from a bite be sure to see a doctor or head to the nearest hospital, where antivenin will be available. Shark attacks are also rare; you are more likely to be carried away by a strong tide than a great white, though it still pays to be sensible and obey any local warnings when swimming. A far bigger problem are mosquitoes and sandﬂies which are a great irritant, but generally free of life-threatening diseases. The West Coast of the South Island in the summer

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Sun, surf and earthquakes

is the worst place for these beasts, though they appear to a lesser degree in many other places across the country: a liberal application of repellent keeps them at bay. At the microscopic level, giardia inhabits many rivers and lakes, and infection results from drinking contaminated water, with symptoms appearing several weeks later: a bloated stomach, cramps, explosive diarrhoea and wind. The Department of Conservation advises you purify drinking water by using iodine-based solutions or tablets (regular chlorine-based tablets aren’t effective against giardia), by fast-boiling water for at least seven minutes or by using a giardia-rated ﬁlter (obtainable from any outdoors or camping shop). The relatively rare amoebic meningitis is another water borne hazard, this time contracted from hot pools. Commercial pools are almost always safe, but in natural pools surrounded by earth you should avoid contamination by keeping your head above water. The amoeba enters the body via the nose or ears, lodges in the brain, and weeks later causes severe headaches, stiffness of the neck, hypersensitivity to light, and eventually coma. If you experience any of these symptoms, seek medical attention immediately.

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in the event of an accident, but without full cover in your travel insurance you could still face a hefty bill. For more minor ailments, you can visit a doctor for a consultation (around $60) and, armed with a prescription, buy any required medication at a pharmacy at a reasonable price.

Insurance New Zealand’s Accident Compensation Commission (Wwww.acc.co.nz) provides limited medical treatment for visitors injured while in New Zealand, but is no substitute for having comprehensive travel insurance to cover against theft, loss and illness or injury. Before paying for a new policy, it’s worth checking whether you are already covered: some all-risks home insurance policies may cover your possessions when overseas, and many private medical schemes include cover when abroad. In Canada, provincial health plans usually provide partial cover for medical mishaps overseas, while holders of ofﬁcial student/teacher/youth cards in Canada and the US are entitled to meagre accident coverage and hospital in-patient beneﬁts. Students will often ﬁnd that their student health coverage extends during the vacations and for one term beyond the date of last enrolment.

Rough Guides travel insurance BASICS

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Rough Guides has teamed up with Columbus Direct to offer you travel insurance that can be tailored to suit your needs. Products include a low-cost backpacker option for long stays; a short break option for city getaways; a typical holiday package option; and others. There are also annual multi-trip policies for those who travel regularly. Different sports and activities (trekking, skiing, etc) can be usually be covered if required. See our website (W www.roughguides.com/website/shop) for eligibility and purchasing options. Alternatively, UK residents should call T08700 339988; US citizens should call T 1-800/749-4922; Australians should call T1300 669999. All other nationalities should call T+44 8708 902843.

After exhausting the possibilities above, you might want to contact a specialist travel insurance company, or consider the travel insurance deal we offer (see above). A typical travel insurance policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash or cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Most of them exclude so-called dangerous activities unless an extra premium is paid. In New Zealand this can mean scuba diving, bungy jumping, whitewater rafting, windsurﬁng, skiing and snowboarding, and even tramping under some policies. Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don’t need – sickness and accident beneﬁts, for example, can often be excluded or included. If you do take medical coverage, ascertain whether beneﬁts will be paid as treatment proceeds or only after return home, and whether there is a 24-hour medical emergency number. When securing baggage cover, make sure that the perarticle limit – typically under £500 – will cover your most valuable possession. If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must obtain an ofﬁcial statement from the police.

Internet

Internet access is abundant and fairly cheap though seldom blindingly fast. You’ll ﬁnd coin-operated machines at most visitor centres, backpacker hostels, motels and campsites, generally charging $6–10 an

hour. At more expensive accommodation there’ll often be a free-use computer, and laptop connections may be available. Many machines (especially the coin-op ones) have limited functionality and can be frustrating if you want to do anything even slightly unusual. Many won’t accept USB cables or ﬂash memory sticks, so you may ﬁnd yourself in need of one of the abundant Internet cafés lining city streets, which typically charge $6 an hour. Wi-Fi access is rapidly becoming more widespread. Some hostels and many motels and hotels will have a hotspot which you can sign up to using your credit card. Rates vary considerably: an hour might cost $10 but you can often get a full 24hr day for under $25. The swankier B&Bs and lodges will usually have free Wi-Fi in all rooms. For more ﬂexibility, consider Telecom’s prepaid card, offering access to a nationwide network of several hundred wireless hotspots (various café chains, airports, Telecom stores, some libraries) charged at $10 an hour. You just pay for the minutes you use.

Mail NZ Post (T0800/501 501, W www.nzpost .com) runs New Zealand’s reliable mail service. Stamps, postcards, envelopes, packing materials and a lot more can be bought at post shops (aka post ofﬁces), which are open Monday to Friday 8.30am to 5pm, plus Saturday 9am or 10am to noon or 1pm in some large towns and cities. Red and silver post boxes are found outside post shops and on street corners, and mail is collected daily.

Specialist outlets should have a reasonable stock of maps of New Zealand, including Rough Guides’ own two-sided, 1:1,000,000 scale, waterproof fold-out sheet. The best of the rest is the map produced by International Travel Maps (W www.itmb.com), which displays important roads and has an attractive and instructive colour scheme giving a good sense of the country’s terrain. Road atlases are widely available in New Zealand bookshops and service stations; the most detailed are those produced by Kiwi Pathﬁnder, which indicate numerous points of interest and the type of road surface. With a road atlas and our city plans you can’t go far wrong on the roads, but more detailed maps may be required for tramping. All the major walks are covered by the Parkmap series, complete with photos (around $15 from DOC ofﬁces and bookshops in New Zealand), while the larger

Money The Kiwi dollar, or “buck”, is divided into 100 cents. There are $100, $50, $20, $10 and $5 notes made of a sturdy plastic material, and coins in denominations of $2 and $1, and 50¢, 20¢ and 10¢. Grocery prices are given to the nearest cent, but the ﬁnal bill is rounded up or down to the nearest ten cents. All prices quoted in the Guide are in New Zealand dollars. Exchange rates ﬂuctuate substantially, but the New Zealand dollar currently trades at NZ$2.56 for £1, NZ$1.30 for US$1, NZ$2 for e1 and NZ$1.23 for A$1. Check current rates at W www.xe.com.

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Maps

scale 1:50,000 Topomaps ($13) cover the whole country.

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There are two forms of domestic delivery: Standard (50¢, or $1 for larger envelopes), delivered to any destination within 2–3 days; and FastPost ($1/$1.50), delivered in 1–2 days. International air mail takes 3–6 days to reach Australia ($1.50), and 6–12 days to Europe, Asia and the United States ($2). Postcards cost $1.50 to anywhere in the world. Parcels are quite expensive to send overseas as there is no longer any surface mail and the economy service only saves ﬁfteen percent for a considerably delayed delivery. Your choice is either Airmail (1kg to Australia $13, USA $27, Europe $30), which takes about a week, or Economy (1kg to Australia $11, USA $23, Europe $25), which takes 2–5 weeks. One post shop in each major town operates a Poste Restante (or General Delivery) service where you can receive mail; we’ve listed the major ones in the “Listings” section of each town account. Most hostels and hotels will keep mail for you, preferably marked with your expected date of arrival. There is also an independent postal system called Universal Mail (Wwww.universalmail .co.nz) which only handles international mail and uses blue boxes. It is a little cheaper but there have been reports of very slow delivery.

Cards, cheques and ATMs For purchases, visitors generally rely on credit cards, particularly Visa and Mastercard/Bankcard, which are widely accepted, though many hostels, campsites and homestays will only accept cash. American Express and Diners Club are far less useful. You’ll also ﬁnd credit cards handy for advance booking of accommodation and trips, and with the appropriate PIN you can obtain cash advances through 24-hour ATMs found almost everywhere. Such withdrawals usually accrue interest immediately or are subject to a two percent premium – check with your bank before you go too wild. Debit cards are also useful for purchases and ATM cash withdrawals, though a fee of around 2 percent will be charged. The safest way to carry your money is still in the form of traveller’s cheques – they can be exchanged efﬁciently at banks and bureaux de change all over New Zealand and replaced if lost or stolen. Recognized brands – American Express, Thomas Cook, Mastercard and Visa – are accepted in all major currencies but traveller’s cheques (even in New Zealand dollars) aren’t accepted as cash.

Banks The major banks – ASB, ANZ, BNZ, National Bank and Westpac – have branches in towns of any size and are open Monday to

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Friday from 9.30am to 4.30pm, with some city branches opening on Saturday mornings (until around 12.30pm). The big cities and tourist centres also have bureaux de change, which are typically open from 8am to 8pm daily. The larger hotels will often change traveller’s cheques at any time, but rates tend to be poor. If you are spending over three months in New Zealand (and especially if you are working), you may want to open a bank account. A New Zealand EFTPOS (debit) card can be used just about anywhere for purchases or obtaining cash, so you can go for weeks without ever visiting a bank. In Auckland, the branch of Westpac at 229 Queen St and the ASB at the corner of Wyndham and Hobson streets are well set up for dealing with working backpackers’ needs. In Christchurch visit the ASB Migrant Banking Unit, 129 Riccarton Rd, Christchurch. An account can usually be set up within a day; remember to take your passport.

Opening hours New Zealand’s larger cities and tourist centres are increasingly open all hours, with cafés and bars open till very late, 24hr supermarkets abundant and shops open long hours every day. Once you get into rural areas, things change rapidly, and core shopping hours (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–noon) apply, though tourist-orientated shops stay open daily until 8pm. An ever-increasing number of supermarkets (at least one in or near each major city) now open seven days a week, 24 hours a day and small “dairies” (corner shops or convenience stores) also keep long hours and open on Sundays. Museums and sights usually open around 9am, although smalltown museums often open only in the afternoons and/or only on speciﬁc days. Public holidays and festivals are listed on p.57.

Phones

Given the near-ubiquity of mobile phones, most people don’t have much need for public telephones, though they are still fairly widespread across New Zealand. Coinoperated public phones are now rare, but all payphones accept major credit cards,

account-based phonecards and slot-in disposable phonecards ($5, $10, $20 and $50). These can be bought at post shops, newsagents, dairies, garages, visitor centres and supermarkets. A local call on a public payphone using coins or a slot-in phonecard costs $1 for the ﬁrst ﬁfteen minutes, then 20¢ a minute. NZ landline calls outside the local calling area cost $1 a minute, and calls to a cell phone are $1.20 a minute. If you are staying with friends you may get to use a private phone, on which local calls are generally free and national calls typically cost around $0.20 a minute depending on what pricing plan your host is on.

Phone numbers New Zealand landline numbers have only ﬁve area codes. The North Island is divided into four codes, while the South Island makes do with just one (T03); all numbers in the Guide are given with their code. Even within the same area, you may have to dial the code if you’re calling another town some distance away. Mobile numbers start with either T021, T027 or T029, and you’ll come across freephone numbers which are all T 0800 or T0508. Numbers preﬁxed T0900 are premium-rated and cannot be called from payphones. National directory assistance T 018 ($0.50 for up to two numbers, plus $0.50 to directly connect the call) International operator T0170 (connecting a call costs $4) International directory assistance T 0172 ($1.50 for up to two numbers) Emergency services Police, ambulance and ﬁre brigade T 111 (no charge)

International dialling codes To call New Zealand from overseas, dial the international access code (T00 from the UK, T011 from the USA and Canada, T 0011 from Australia, T09 from South Africa), followed by T64, the area code minus its initial zero, and then the number. To dial out of New Zealand, it’s T00, followed by the country code (see p.83), then the area code (without the initial zero if there is one) and the number. Remember that there’ll be a time difference between

your country and New Zealand (see "Time" on p.84 to avoid rude awakenings).

Mobile phones For sheer convenience you can’t do better than a mobile phone, and it needn’t cost the earth. NZ has two mobile providers: Telecom (Wwww.telecom.co.nz) run a CDMA network, while Vodafone (Wwww.vodafone.co.nz) operate a GSM system. Both have excellent reception in populated areas but Telecom has broader coverage in remoter spots. If you’re thinking of bringing your phone from home check with your service to see if your phone will work in NZ. GSM users may want to use their own phone, buying a New Zealand SIM card ($35 from Vodafone) and going pre-pay; you’ll have to tell friends and colleagues your new NZ number but it can save a fair bit of money. Alternatively, you can rent an NZ phone (around $2 a day from airports and bigger cybercafés) or buy an NZ phone and use it during your stay: both companies sell basic models for under NZ$100.

Photography

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For long-distance and international calling you are best off with pre-paid account-based phonecards (denominations from $5 to $50) that can be used on any phone. To make a call, dial the access number followed by the number you are calling; the cost of the call is then deducted from your account, which can be topped up using your credit card. There are numerous such cards around offering highly competitive rates, but be wary of the very cheap ones: they are often Internet-based and the voice quality can be poor and delayed. One reliable card is Telecom’s Yabba (Wwww .yabba.co.nz) which charges just 10¢ to Australia, Ireland, the UK and most of Western Europe, 29¢ to Canada and the USA, and 25¢ to South Africa. Be warned, though, that public payphones now charge an additional 24¢ per minute for use of Yabba and all other account-based phonecards, so try to use them from private phones whenever possible. There are also discount phone centres springing up in major cities and popular tourist destinations, which often undercut phonecards.

Note that the initial zero is omitted from the area code when dialling the UK, Ireland and Australia. Australia 00 + 61 + city code. Republic of Ireland 00 + 353 + city code. South Africa 00 + 27 + city code. UK 00 + 44 + city code. US and Canada 00 + 1 + area code.

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Phonecards and calling cards

Calling home

Camera shops everywhere will process your digital images onto CDs (for $5–8, less if you provide your own CD), and increasingly hostels have some way of allowing you to review your day’s snaps. Uploading to websites or a home server is possible at some cybercafés, though many don’t want you clogging up their lines. Standard colour print ﬁlm is still fairly widely available, but professional and slide ﬁlm is harder to come by outside the main cities.

Shopping NZ is hardly a shoppers’ paradise: you’re more likely to take home fond memories than a bag full of goodies. But there is stuff worth seeking out. One of the most popular souvenirs is a curvaceous greenstone (jade) pendant, probably based on a Maori design. They’re available all over the country, though it makes sense to buy close to the main source of raw material around Greymouth and Hokitika on the West Coast of the South Island. Most of the cheaper goods are manufactured from Chinese jade, which is regarded as inferior: for the genuine article insist on New Zealand pounamu carved locally (see box, p.746). A variation on this theme is the bone pendant. Several places around the country give you a chance to work a piece of cattle bone into your own design or something based on classic Maori iconography. With a little talent and application you should be able to whip up something to be proud of in a few hours. Something similar can be made of irridescent paua shell, or you can simply buy ready-made pieces fashioned

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into anything from buttons to detailed picture frames. As everywhere, gift shops come laden with tacky trinkets you wouldn’t look twice at, but you will ﬁnd photo books full of superb shots of magniﬁcent scenery. Look out in particular for books by Craig Potton and Andris Apse, but there are many other worthy examples. Sheepskin and wool products are also big, as are garments – socks, sweaters etc – at least partly made from possum fur. New Zealanders hate these Australian pests and will thank you for supporting any industry which hastens their demise. A quality possum-fur throw will set you back over $1000 but cushion covers come much cheaper. Sheepskins go for around $100. On a more practical level, you may need to supplement your wardrobe of outdoor clothing. There’s plenty of stuff around, but look out for the Icebreaker (Wwww .icebreaker.com) and Untouched World (W www.untouchedworld.co.nz) brands of stylish Merino-wool garments, which are fairly pricey but feel great, keep you warm and don’t harbour nasty odours as much as some synthetics. New Zealand doesn’t do budget or midrange fashion clothing all that well, but some of its top designers are world-class. Garments by Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester, Trelise Cooper, Zambesi and World are

expensive for most Kiwis, but may seem quite affordable if you’re travelling with a strong currency. If you want to dress up in a more permanent fashion, you might even consider a tattoo. Curvilinear designs derived from ferns or based on Maori iconography are popular and you’ll have little trouble tracking down skilled moko artists.

Time and seasons New Zealand Standard Time (NZST) is 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, but, from the last Sunday in September to the ﬁrst Sunday in April, Daylight Saving puts the clocks one hour further forward. Throughout the summer, when it is noon in New Zealand, it’s 10am in Sydney, 11pm the day before in London, 6pm the day before in New York, and 3pm the day before in Los Angeles. New Zealand follows Britain’s lead with dates, and 1/4/2009 means April 1 not January 4. Don’t forget that the southern hemisphere seasons are reversed: summer lasts roughly from November to March, and winter from June to September.

Tourist information New Zealand promotes itself enthusiastically abroad through Tourism New Zealand, and its extensive website Wwww .newzealand.com.

Metric conversion table Length 1 centimetre (cm) = 0.394in 1 metre = 39.37in 1 metre = 3.28ft 1 kilometre = 0.621 miles 1 foot (ft) = 30.48cm 1 yard (yd) = 0.91m 1 mile = 1.610km Area 1 hectare = 2.471 acres 1 square km = 0.39 square miles 1 acre = 0.40 hectares 1 square mile = 2.59 square km 84

Weight 1 ounce (oz) = 28.57g 1 pound (lb) = 454g 1 gram (g) = 0.035oz 1 kilogram = 2.2lb Volume 1 US gallon (gal) = 3.85 litres 1 litre = 0.22 UK gallons 1 litre = 0.26 US gallons Temperature To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit: multiply by 1.8 and add 32 To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius: subtract 32 and divide by 1.8

Every town of any size has an ofﬁcial i-SITE visitor centre, staffed by helpful and knowledgeable personnel and sometimes offering some form of video presentation on the area. Apart from dishing out local maps and leaﬂets, they offer a free booking service for accommodation, trips and activities, and onward travel, but only with businesses registered with them. Some (usually small) businesses choose not to register and may still be worth seeking out; we’ve mentioned them where relevant. In the more popular tourist areas, you’ll also come across all manner of places representing themselves as independent information centres that usually follow a hidden agenda, typically promoting a number of allied adventure companies. While these can be useful, it’s worth remembering that their advice may not be completely impartial. Other useful resources are Department of Conservation (DOC; Wwww.doc.govt.nz) ofﬁces and ﬁeld centres, usually sited close to wilderness areas and popular tramping tracks, and often serving as the local visitor centre as well. These are highly informative and well geared to trampers’ needs, with local weather forecasts, intentions forms and maps as well as historic and environmental displays and audio visual exhibitions. Their website contains loads of detail on the environment and the latest conservation issues plus details on national parks and Great Walks.

Tourism New Zealand ofﬁces Australia Suite 3, Level 24, 1 Alfred St, Sydney, NSW 2000 T 02/8220 9000. Canada Information line only T 1-866/639 9325. New Zealand PO Box 95, Wellington T04/ 917 5400.

Travelling with children New Zealand is a child-friendly place, and while other people’s kids aren’t revered in the way they are in Mediterranean Europe, if you’re travelling with kids you’ll ﬁnd broad acceptance. In fact getting you and your children to and from New Zealand might be the most difﬁcult part. Unless you are coming from Australia, ﬂights are inevitably long so it will probably pay to break your journey, or at least make sure your airline offers plenty of distractions to keep the little ones entertained. Once in New Zealand, accommodation is easy. Family rooms are almost always available at motels and hostels, and holiday parks (campsites) typically offer self-contained units where the whole family can be together. The better holiday parks also have kids’ play areas and often a swimming pool. To be more self-sufﬁcient, consider renting a medium-sized campervan, possibly with its own shower and toilet, though the downside is that you’ll have no escape. Travelling around you’ll ﬁnd public toilets in most towns and anywhere tourists congregate – cleanliness standards are usually good. Older kids can often join in adult adventure activities, though restrictions do apply. Bungy operators usually require a minimum age of ten, though this might rise to 12 or 13 for the bigger jumps. Whitewater rafting is typically limited to those 13 and over, though there are a few easier family-oriented trips. Similar restrictions apply to other activities, so ask when you book. Family tickets usually cost about the same as two adults and one child, so come into their own if you’ve got two or more children. Children are welcomed in most cafés and restaurants, and most will make a reasonable effort to accommodate you.

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Visitor centres

United Kingdom New Zealand House, Haymarket, London, SW1Y 4TQ T020/7930 1662, premiumrate information line T09069/101 010; also handles enquiries from Ireland. USA Suite 300, 501 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401 T310/395 7480 or 1-800/388 5494; Suite 2510, 222 East 41 St, New York, NY 10017 T212/661 7088.

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Many of the information centres listed below, as well as some cafés, bars and hostels, keep a supply of free newspapers and magazines oriented towards backpackers – they’re usually ﬁlled with promotional copy, but are informative nonetheless. NZ Backpackers News (Wwww.backpackersnews.co.nz) and TNT (Wwww.tntdownunder.com) are two of the best.

Travellers with disabilities BASICS

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New Zealand is disabled-traveller friendly, but that doesn’t mean everything is rosy. While many public buildings, galleries and museums are accessible to the disabled, restaurants and local public transport make few concessions. On the plus side, many tour operators are prepared to make a special effort to enable travellers with mobility problems or disabilities to participate in all manner of activities, such as swimming with dolphins or whales

Planning a trip There are organized tours and holidays speciﬁcally for people with disabilities – the contacts listed below will be able to put you in touch with specialists for trips to New Zealand. If you want to be more independent, it’s important to research where you must be self-reliant and where you may expect help, especially regarding transport and accommodation. It is also vital to be upfront with travel agencies, insurance companies and travel companions about your limitations. If your walking capabilities are limited, remember that you are likely to need to cover lengthy distances while travelling (often over rough terrain and in hot temperatures). Reading your travel insurance small print carefully to make sure that people with a pre-existing medical condition are not excluded could save you a fortune. Your travel agent can help make your journey simpler: airline or bus companies can better cater to your needs if they are expecting you. A medical certiﬁcate of your ﬁtness to travel, provided by your doctor, is also extremely useful; some airlines or insurance companies may insist on it. Make sure that you have extra supplies of medications – carried with you if you ﬂy – and a prescription including the generic name in case of emergency. Carry spares of any clothing or equipment that might be hard to ﬁnd; if there’s an association representing people with your disability, contact them. Once you’re in New Zealand, several organizations provide information for travellers with disabilities and give practical advice on where to go and how to get there.

Accommodation Current New Zealand law stipulates that any newly built hotel, hostel or motel must have at least one room designed or modiﬁed for disabled access and use. Many pre-existing accommodation establishments have converted rooms to meet these requirements, including most YHA hostels, some motels, campsites and larger hotels. Older buildings, homestays and B&Bs are the least likely to lend themselves to such conversions. For listings, go straight to W www.carers .org.nz which has a searchable database of lodging.

Travelling Few airlines, trains, ferries and buses allow complete independence. Air New Zealand provides a special wheelchair narrow enough to move around in the plane, and the rear toilet cubicles are wider than the others to facilitate access; for more details search for “Special Assistance” on their website. Other domestic airlines will provide help, if not always facilities. Cook Strait ferries have reasonable access for disabled travellers, including physical help while boarding, if needed, and adapted toilets. If given advance warning, trains will provide attendants to get passengers in wheelchairs or sight-impaired travellers on board, but moving around the train in a standard wheelchair is impossible and there are no specially adapted toilets; the problems with longdistance buses are much the same. In cities there are some taxis speciﬁcally adapted for wheelchairs, but these must be pre-booked; otherwise taxi drivers obligingly hoist wheelchairs into the boot and their occupant onto a seat. The New Zealand Total Mobility Scheme allows anyone unable to use public transport to use taxis at half-price; a list of participating areas and companies is available from the Disabled Persons Assembly (see “Contacts in New Zealand”, on p.87), who can arrange for the necessary vouchers to be issued; they also provide advice about parking concessions for people with mobility problems. Alternatively, organizations in your home country,

Disability Resource Centre 14 Erson Ave, Royal Oak, Auckland T 09/625 8069 & 0800/693 342, W www.disabilityresource.org.nz. General resource centre. Disabled Persons Assembly Level 4/173–175 Victoria St, Wellington, New Zealand T 04/801 9100 W www.dpa.org.nz. Resource centre with lists of travel agencies and tour operators for people with disabilities. Enable New Zealand T0800/171 981, Wwww .enable.co.nz. Organization assisting people with disabilities, though not speciﬁcally focused on travellers. Galaxy Motors T07/826 4020 & 0800/8642 5299, W www.galaxyautos.co.nz. Auckland company with rental vehicle for those with special mobility needs, plus personalized tours with a guide, companion, carer or translator. Ucan Tours 8 Campbell St, Sumner, Christchurch T 03/326 7881, Wwww.ucantours.com. Accessible group travel, customized independent tours and vehicle rental.

Contacts in Australia NDS (National Disability Services) PO Box 60, Curtin ACT 2605 T 02/6282 4333, Wwww.nds.org.au. Provides lists of travel agencies and tour operators for people with disabilities.

Contacts in the UK and Ireland Holiday Care 2nd ﬂoor, Imperial Building, Victoria Rd, Horley, Surrey RH6 7PZ T 0845/124 9971, Minicom T 0845/124 9976, Wwww .holidaycare.org.uk. Provides a free list of accessible accommodation in New Zealand for older travellers, as well as those with disabilities. Irish Wheelchair Association Blackheath Drive, Clontarf, Dublin 3 T 01/818 6400, Wwww.iwa.ie. Useful information about travelling abroad with a wheelchair. RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation) 12 City Forum, 250 City Rd, London EC1V 8AF T 020/7250 3222,

Contacts in the USA Access-Able W www.access-able.com. Online resource for travellers with disabilities. Mobility International USA Suite 202, 451 Broadway, Eugene, OR 97401 T 541/343-1284, W www.miusa.org. Information and referral services, access guides, tours and exchange programmes. Annual membership $35 (includes quarterly newsletter). Society for the Advancement of Travelers with Handicaps (SATH) 347 5th Ave, New York, NY 10016 T212/447-7284, Wwww.sath.org. Non-proﬁt educational organization that has actively represented travellers with disabilities since 1976.

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Contacts in New Zealand

Minicom T020/7250 4119, W www.radar.org.uk. Campaigning organization and general resource for the disabled.

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including those listed below, are good points of contact for advice. Staff on public buses will endeavour to lend a hand, but buses are difﬁcult to board. Some small minibus conversions are available and shuttle buses will help you board and stow your chair, but it pays to let the operator know beforehand of your particular needs.

Women travellers Despite being burdened with a somewhat out-of-date macho reputation, most Kiwi men have fairly progressive attitudes towards women, and travelling in New Zealand doesn’t present any particular problems. Of course, there are some unevolved specimens who will assume a lone female (any female) is fair game for their attentions, but this is rare and harassment may well be less of a problem than it is at home. Nonetheless, New Zealand isn’t all sweetness and light, and dangers do exist. Just because you’re on holiday and the country seems benign you shouldn’t let your guard down. Always follow the usual advice about not walking down empty city streets at night and avoiding hitch-hiking: a modicum of common sense and a short taxi ride can avert a disaster. In the unlikely event of trouble, contact W www.rapecrisis.org.nz. For support, Women’s Centres around the country are listed on the Ministry of Women’s Affairs website at Wwww.mwa.govt.nz/directory. You might also consider partly organizing your holiday through Women Travel New Zealand (Wwww.womentravel.co.nz), which offers essential information for the woman traveller in New Zealand with links to retreats, women-oriented tour operators and their newsletter.

Auckland and around

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

5"4."/4&"

1"$*'*$0$&"/

CHAPTER 1 AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Highlights

Auckland Museum The exemplary Maori and Paciﬁc Island collection is the highlight of this popular museum. See p.110

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Ponsonby Road Auckland’s premier eating and hangingout street. See p.116

Devonport Reﬁned waterside suburb that’s home to a swag of sumptuous B&Bs. See p.119

Otara Market Island print fabrics, veg stalls and a lot of life make this New Zealand’s ﬁnest expression

of Polynesian culture. See p.121

Rangitoto Island Make a day-trip to this gnarled lava landscape draped in forest with great views back to the city. See p.146

Great Barrier Island Enjoy island life, two hours but thirty years away from Auckland. See p.155

Tiritiri Matangi Observe some of New Zealand’s rarest birds close up in the regenerating habitat of one of the Hauraki Gulf’s prettiest islands. See p.161

92 Auckland

skyline from Westhaven Marina

uckland is New Zealand’s largest city and, as the site of the major international airport, most visitors’ first view of the country. Planes bank over the island-studded Hauraki Gulf and brightly spinnakered yachts tack through the glistening waters towards the “City of Sails”, but don’t be fooled. Auckland looks best from air or sea, its skyscrapered downtown dominated by a Skytower that attracts the eye. Truth is the downtown area is relatively small, surrounded by the grassy humps of some fifty-odd extinct volcanoes that ring the Waitemata Harbour, and low-rise suburban sprawl that extends as far as the eye can see. Beyond the central business district little rises above two storeys and prim wooden villas surrounded by substantial gardens set the tone. This is one of the least densely populated cities in the world, occupying twice the area of London and yet home to just over a million inhabitants. With its attractive harbour and warm climate, Auckland’s fans rank it alongside Sydney, though it fails to live up to the claim on most counts. Look beyond the glitzy shopfronts and Auckland has a modest small-town feel and measured pace, though this can seem frenetic in comparison with the rest of the country. If Auckland stakes a claim to fame, it is as the world’s largest Polynesian city. Around twelve percent of the population claim Maori descent while thirteen percent are families of migrants who arrived from Tonga, Samoa, the Cook Islands and other South Pacific islands during the 1960s and 1970s. Nevertheless, the Polynesian profile has traditionally been confined to small pockets, and it is only now, as the second generations reach maturity, that Polynesia is making its presence felt in mainstream Auckland life, especially in the arts. Many visitors only stay long enough for a quick zip around the smattering of key sights before moving on to less metropolitan locales. You could be forgiven for doing the same, but don’t miss the Auckland Museum, with its matchless collection of Maori and Pacific Island carving and artefacts. With more time it’s worth grabbing a ferry from the centre of the city, to the Hauraki Gulf islands: Rangitoto, Waiheke Island, Tiritiri Matangi or Great Barrier. Beyond these, you can get a taste of the city by ambling around the fashionable inner-city suburbs of Ponsonby, Parnell and Devonport, and using the city as a base for exploring the wild and desolate West Coast surf beaches and the wineries nearby. Auckland’s climate is often described as muggy; it’s never scorching hot, and the heat is always tempered by a sea breeze. Winters are generally mild but rainy.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Auckland and around

Auckland AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Auckland

AUCKLAND’s urban sprawl smothers the North Island’s wasp waist, a narrow isthmus where the island is all but severed by river estuaries probing inland from the city’s two harbours. To the west, the shallow and silted Manukau Harbour opens out onto the Tasman Sea at a rare break in the long string of black-sand beaches continually pounded by heavy surf. Maori named the eastern anchorage the Waitemata Harbour for its “sparkling waters”, which constitute Auckland’s deep-water port and a focus for the heart of the city. Every summer weekend the harbour and adjoining Hauraki Gulf explode into a riot of brightly coloured sails. In recent years, Auckland’s downtown Viaduct Harbour has blossomed with hundreds of modern apartments and a welter of stylish cafés and restaurants.Yet despite Auckland’s bustle and harbourside setting, few fall in love with the city 8IBOHBSFJ LN

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or stick around long enough to scratch below the surface. Those who persist might find themselves more enthusiastic about the place. Some history AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Arrival and information

The earth’s crust between the Waitemata and Manukau harbours is so thin that, every few thousand years, magma finds a fissure and bursts onto the surface, producing yet another volcano. The most recent eruption, some six hundred years ago, formed Rangitoto Island, to the horror of some of the region’s earliest Maori inhabitants, settled on adjacent Motutapu Island. Legend records their ancestors’ arrival on the Tamaki Isthmus, the narrowest neck of land between the Waitemata and Manukau harbours. With plentiful catches from two harbours and rich volcanic soils on a wealth of highly defensible volcano-top sites, the land, which they came to know as Tamaki-makau-rau (“the spouse sought by a hundred lovers”), became the prize of numerous battles over the years. By the middle of the eighteenth century it had fallen to Kiwi Tamaki, who established a three-thousand-strong pa (fortified village) on Maungakiekie (“One Tree Hill”), and a satellite pa on just about every volcano in the district, but was eventually overwhelmed by rival hapu (sub-tribes) from Kaipara Harbour to the north. With the arrival of musket-trading Europeans in the Bay of Islands around the beginning of the nineteenth century, Northland Ngapuhi were able to launch successful raids on the Tamaki Maori which, combined with smallpox epidemics, left the region almost uninhabited, a significant factor in its choice as the new capital after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. Scottish medic John Logan Campbell was one of few European residents when this fertile land, with easy access to major river and seaborne trading routes, was purchased for £55 and some blankets. The capital was roughly laid out and Campbell took advantage of his early start, wheeling and dealing to achieve control of half the city, eventually becoming mayor and “the father of Auckland”. After 1840, immigrants boosted the population to the extent that more land was needed, a demand which partly precipitated the New Zealand Wars of the 1860s (see p.881). During the depression that followed, many sought their fortunes in the Otago goldfields and, as the balance of European population shifted south, so did the centre of government. Auckland lost its capital status to Wellington in 1865 and the city slumped further, only seeing the glimpse of a recovery when prospectors flooded through on their way to the gold mines around Thames in the late 1860s. Since then Auckland has never looked back, repeatedly ranking as New Zealand’s fastest growing city and absorbing waves of migrants, initially from Britain then, in the 1960s and 1970s, from the Polynesian Islands of the South Pacific. A steady stream of rural Maori have been arriving on Auckland’s doorstep for the best part of half a century, now joined by an influx of East Asians whose tastes have radically altered the city centre – high-rise apartments now pepper the CBD and Korean, Thai, Malaysian, Chinese and Japanese restaurants are everywhere.

Arrival and information As New Zealand’s major gateway city, Auckland receives the bulk of international arrivals, a few disembarking from cruise ships at the dock by the Ferry Building downtown, but the vast majority arriving by air.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Arrival and information

Auckland International Airport (arrival and departure info at W www .auckland-airport.co.nz) is located 20km south of the city centre in the suburb of Mangere. The international terminal is connected to the two domestic terminals – operated by Air New Zealand, Qantas and various regional airlines – by a shuttle bus (6am–10.30pm), but if you’ve a light load it’s only a tenminute walk. Before leaving the international terminal you can grab a free shower at The Collection Point, who also store baggage (towels $10, storage $3/day per item), though most travellers just head straight for the city. The well-stocked and helpful i-SITE visitor centre (T 09/275 6467) stays open for all international arrivals and will book you into a city hotel free of charge, or you can make use of the bank of courtesy phones nearby. There’s also a branch of the BNZ bank that changes money at tolerable rates, and some duty-free shops. A taxi into the city will set you back around $65, while the AirBus (every 20min 6.20am–10pm; $15 one way, $22 return; backpacker cardholder discount, $13 one way, $20 return) follows a fixed route into the city (roughly 1hr). Most travellers, however, end up catching one of the door-to-door minibuses that wait outside the terminals. Ask at the first in line and if they’re not going to the part of town where you’re staying they’ll point you to one that is: you’ll seldom have to wait more than fifteen minutes. Fares are around $23 to downtown and $40 to Devonport; most offer small discounts to those with a backpacker card, and groups travelling to the same location get a significant reduction, adding only $5 per additional person. For pick-up on departure call Super Shuttle (T 0800/748 885) or phone a taxi company (see p.137). Long-distance bus services into Auckland mostly arrive at the InterCity Bus Terminal under the Sky City Casino complex at 102 Hobson St. This is used by InterCity, Newmans and Northliner Express. Smaller operators – Guthrey’s, Mainline, Delroys, Go Kiwi and Supa Travel, as well as the AirBus – stop outside the Scenic Tours & Travel office at 172 Quay St, opposite the Downtown Ferry Terminal. Overlander trains from Wellington and Hamilton arrive at the Britomart Transport Centre, at the harbour end of Queen Street.

Information

Auckland’s two main i-SITE visitor centres share contact details (T 0800/2825 5263, W www.aucklandnz.com). One is in The Atrium inside the Sky City, corner of Victoria and Federal streets (daily 8am–8pm;), and the other at 137 Quay St at the corner with Hobson St, close to Viaduct Harbour (daily: Oct–April Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; May–Sept daily 9am–5pm). The former is a little cramped, but both are stocked with leaflets from around the country including a number of advertisement-heavy free publications, the best of which are the annual Auckland A–Z Visitors Guide and the monthly Auckland What’s On. Both have sketch maps that are adequate for most purposes, or you could splash out on the KiwiMap Auckland Pathfinder Directory ($29.95), which includes 22 regional town maps. Backpacker information is best gleaned from noticeboards in hostels, where adverts cover rides, vehicle sales and job opportunities, and the hostels offer an extensive booking service for onward travel; try the Auckland Central, base, both YHAs and the Fat Camel. The compact Department of Conservation (DOC) office, in the Ferry Building at 99 Quay St (Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm, Oct–April only Sat 10am–3pm, closed every day for an hour for lunch; T 09/379 6476, E aucklandvc @doc.govt.nz), stocks DOC material and does track bookings for the whole country, although it specializes in the Auckland and Hauraki Gulf region.

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City transport AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| City transport

Auckland’s public transport is in a sorry state and periodic moves to improve it are hampered by the city’s spread, low population density, groaning ratepayers and politically motivated city and regional councils fighting petty internecine battles. That said, you can get to most places on foot (notably along the Coast to Coast Walkway, see p.122), by local bus, or with one of the city tour buses. Out on the harbour, ferries connect the city to the inner suburb of Devonport and the islands. Taxis are plentiful and can be flagged down, though they seldom cruise the streets and are best contacted by phone (see p.137). Few visitors will find much use for the suburban train services, which start from the Britomart Transport Centre at the harbour end of Queen Street and call at places that are of little interest to tourists. Parking isn’t a major headache, but drivers aren’t courteous and you may be better off renting a car just before you leave the city. Hilly terrain and motorists’ lack of bike-awareness render cycling a less than inviting option.

Buses Local buses fan out through the city from the Britomart Transport Centre at the northern end of Queen Street. The single most useful route is the Link (Mon–Fri 6am–11.30pm, Sat & Sun 7am–11.30pm; every 10min until 7pm, every 15min after; $1.60, $14 for ten rides), green buses which continuously loop through the city, Parnell, Newmarket, K’ Road and Ponsonby; buy tickets on the bus or in the Britomart. For buses other than the Link, fares are charged according to how far you travel: the inner city is $0 50, Stage One $1.60, Stage Two $3.20 and so on to Stage Eight. A limited view of the central city can be had on the City Circuit bus (daily 8am–6pm; every 10min; free) beginning on Queen Street, opposite the Britomart Transport Centre, then heading to the University before crossing back over Queen Street to explore the west side of downtown. There’s also a secure NightRider service (Sat & Sun 1–3am; $4–9) designed to get you home after a night out. Check the journey planner at W www.maxx .co.nz.

Ferries The Waitemata Harbour was once a seething mass of ferries bringing commuters in from the suburbs. Services have been rationalized over the years, but the harbour ferries remain a fast, pleasurable and scenic way to get around.

Information and transport passes

For integrated information on Auckland’s buses, trains and ferries consult Maxx (T 0800/103 080, W www.maxx.co.nz), which includes a timetable helpline and comprehensive journey planner. Alternatively pick up the ﬁve free Getting Around Auckland transport guides from Britomart. The most useful are the Central and Eastern regions. For short-stay visitors, the best deal is the one-day Getabout Auckland Discovery Pass ($13 from bus drivers, ferry ticket ofﬁces and the train station), which covers all the areas you’re likely to want to explore and includes the Link, suburban trains and all ferries to the north shore (including Devonport), though not those to the Gulf Islands (see p.146).

The main destinations are the Hauraki Gulf islands, but there are also services calling at Devonport, run by Fullers, the principal ferry company (T 09/367 9111, W www.fullers.co.nz). The Devonport Ferry (see box, p.120) is the cheapest of the ferries and is included in the Getabout Auckland Discovery Pass (see p.98).

| City transport

With many of the Auckland region’s sights conveniently accessible on foot or by public transport, there isn’t an advantage in having a car while in the city, though you’ll need one to explore the Kumeu wineries and surf beaches of the West Coast. As the main point of entry, Auckland is awash with places to rent a car (see p.135 for details of outfits in the city); and if you’re planning on some serious touring, you may be interested in buying one – see p.41 for some advice on the pros and cons, and p.135 for Auckland car markets. Driving around Auckland isn’t especially taxing, though it is worth avoiding the rush hours from 7 to 9am and 4 to 6.30pm. On first acquaintance, Auckland’s urban freeways are unnerving, with frequent junctions, poor signage, a high density of private and commercial traffic, lane changing at whim and vehicles overtaking aggressively on all sides. Driving is on the left, though if you’ve just arrived after a long flight you should consider waiting a day or so before taking the plunge. Inner-city streets are metered, which means that parking is best done in the multistorey car parks dotted round the city; some are not open 24 hours, so check the latest exit time.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Driving

Cycling Cycling around Auckland’s hills can be a tiring and dispiriting exercise. However, a few areas lend themselves to pedal-powered exploration, most notably the harbourside Tamaki Drive east of the city centre, which forms part of a 50km cycle route around the city and its isthmus – detailed in a free leaflet available from visitor centres. Rental bikes cost around $25 per day ($140/ week), depending on the sophistication of the model; see p.135 for details of outlets. In addition, some companies offer monthly rental and buy-back schemes for long-stayers (see p.43).

City tours If you’re keen to keep it simple, you can get around the main sights on the hop-on-hop-off Explorer Bus (T 0800/439 756, W www.explorerbus.co.nz; 1-day pass $30, 2-day pass $45, pay the driver), which runs every half-hour (9am–4pm) and comes with a commentary. The circuit starts from the Ferry Building on Quay Street, goes along Tamaki Drive to Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World, up to Parnell and the Auckland Museum, and back via Victoria Park Market and Viaduct Harbour. Between October and April, a second loop takes in Mount Eden, MOTAT and the Auckland Art Gallery. A different approach is taken by Tamaki Hikoi Tours (3hr, $80; T 0800/282 5526), who offer Maori-led walks showcasing Mount Eden and the city including a marae visit. A similar Maori perspective is provided by Potiki Adventures (daily 10am–6pm; $145, on demand; T 0800/692 3836, W www .potikiadventures.com) – see “Adventure Activities”, p.124. 99

Accommodation AUCKL AND AND AROUND

With a broad range of accommodation, Auckland meets the needs of most budgets but that doesn’t stop everywhere filling up through December, January and February, when you should book ahead. At other times it’s less critical and through the quiet winter months, from June to September, you’ll be spoiled for choice and significant discounts on room rates can be had; it’s worth asking. Auckland is a place where you might choose to stay outside the city centre, as most sightseeing can be done as easily from suburbs such as Ponsonby, less than 2km west of the centre, Mount Eden, 2km south of the centre, Devonport, a short ferry journey across the harbour, and Parnell, 2km east of the centre. All are well supplied with places to eat and drink. The city centre remains the place to find international four- and five-star hotels, mostly geared towards business travellers and tour groups; walk-in rates

| Accommodation

First night accommodation With several efﬁcient door-to-door shuttle services into central Auckland there is little reason to stay near the airport unless you arrive at midnight or have a hideously early ﬂight to catch. Most airport accommodation lines Kirkbride Road in Mangere, some 5km away, close to many of the car-rental pick-ups. New arrivals picking up a car or campervan near the airport may baulk at tangling with central city trafﬁc after a long ﬂight. There are numerous tempting beachside spots only an hour or two from the airport, including Miranda (1hr southeast of airport, see p.145); Muriwai (1hr northwest of airport, see p.141); Orewa (1hr north of airport, see p.143); Piha (1hr northwest of airport, see p.140); and Tawharanui Regional Park (1hr 30min north of airport, see p.172), though this is reached by twisty, narrow roads and poor signage that might put off anyone driving a campervan for the ﬁrst time.

Airport accommodation

100

All the places listed below provide their own free shuttle service to the airport (either on a ﬁxed schedule or to order), and have a freephone at the airport: just give them a call and they’ll pick you up. There isn’t much of interest around the airport hotels, but some have bars and restaurants, and there are a couple of eateries and takeaways nearby. Airport Bed & Breakfast 1 Westney Rd (at Kirkbride Rd) T 09/275 0533, Wwww .airportbnb.co.nz. Ten rooms (four en suite) in a converted suburban house that’s well placed for the airport, with a friendly owner, Wi-Fi and buffet breakfast thrown in. 4 Airport Skyway Lodge 30 Kirkbride Rd T 09/275 4443, Wwww.skywaylodge.co.nz. Several grades of basic budget accommodation in friendly and relaxed surroundings with guests’ kitchen and free luggage storage. Accommodation is in four-bunk dorms, double and twin rooms and self-catering motel units. There’s even free bikebox storage for cyclists. Doubles & twins 2 , en-suite rooms & units 3 Jet Park Airport Hotel and Conference Centre 63 Westney Rd T0800/538 466, Wwww.jetinn.co.nz. The subject of a major re-brand, with tastefully decorated rooms and all the expected facilities – Sky TV, minibars, lovely outdoor pool, restaurant/bar – plus a deluxe wing. 6 , deluxe 7 , exec suite 8 Ventura Inn and Suites 14 Airpark Drive T09/275 4540, Wwww.venturainns.co.nz. The nearest thing to the airport without camping by the runway just happens to be a swanky set of seventy air-conditioned rooms with all the usual business facilities at a surprisingly reasonable price. Housed in typical airport architecture, but if you’re inside it won’t matter. Standard Studio 4 , deluxe suite 5

Hotels and motels An increasing number of hotels pepper the city centre and inner suburbs, ranging from budget to swanky five-star affairs. High city rents force motels further out and you’ll see them mostly on the Great South Road in Epsom, immediately south of Newmarket, where at least a dozen nestle in one kilometre. Central Auckland

of your budget a visit to the Bellini cocktail bar on the ground ﬂoor will give you a taste of the high life and prices. 9

Parnell See map on p.113. Parnell Inn 320 Parnell Rd T0800/472 763, W www.parnellinn.co.nz. Compact and simple hotel tucked in behind the Kosmic Café right in the heart of Parnell. Rooms are fairly small, some with kitchenette, and off-street parking is available. Large rooms with view 4 , basic rooms 3

| Accommodation

See map on p.106. Airdale Hotel 380 Queen St T 09/374 1741, W www.scenic-circle.co.nz. Recently refurbished to its original 1950s Art Deco style, there are 100 rooms, all with kitchenette, some with city and harbour views from some rooms. Summer deals (6 ) make it good value for money. 7 Aspen House 62 Emily Place T09/379 6633, W www.aspenhouse.co.nz. Compact hotel right in the heart of the city but surprisingly quiet and with a small garden. Rooms aren’t big (and some have little natural light) but it’s great value and a helpyourself continental breakfast is included. Secure parking is available for $12.50 a day. Rooms 2 en suite 4 Elliott St Apartments Corner of Wellesley & Elliott sts T 0800/565 665, Wwww.esapts.co.nz. Attractive, modern studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments (serviced daily) in a heritage building right in the heart of the city. Rooms at the back can be a little dark (but are quieter), and all have full kitchen, laundry, dataports and Sky TV. No on-site parking. Studios 5 , 2-bedroom 6 Heritage 35 Hobson St T 0800/368 888, W www .heritagehotels.co.nz. Top-class hotel partly fashioned from the original Farmers department store – once the city’s grandest. Occasional bits of aged planking and wooden supports crop up in public areas, but it is ﬁtted out to a very high standard and many rooms have views across the harbour or into the glassed-in atrium. There is also an outside pool with views over the city rooftops. 7 Hilton Princes Wharf, 147 Quay St, Auckland T 09/978 2000, W www.1.hilton.com. Fabulously sited on a wharf jutting into the harbour. Beautifully decorated rooms, all with terrace or balcony, start from around $390 in summer but it is worth paying the extra $80 for a good view. Fabulous waterside suites are around a grand. If you decide this is out

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

are usually prohibitively high, though there are sometimes weekend deals. Backpacker hostels congregate around the city centre and inner suburbs; B&Bs and guesthouses are strongest in Ponsonby, Devonport and the southern suburbs of Epsom and Remuera; and the widest selection of motels is just south of Newmarket in Epsom. Predictably, campsites are further out and not really worth the hassle.

Ponsonby See map on p.117. Abaco on Jervois 59 Jervois Rd T0800/220 066, Wwww.abaco.co.nz. Attractive motel close to the Ponsonby cafés, with a range of rooms and plenty of off-street parking. Budget options lack kitchens; standard rooms are much more spacious but nothing compared to the deluxe rooms, many with spa baths and distant harbour views. Budget 3 , standard 4 , deluxe 6

Epsom See map on p.122. Greenpark 66 Great South Rd T0800/888 819, W www.green-park.co.nz. Renovated motel with standard and executive suites, all with separate bedrooms and full facilities. 3 Hansen’s & The Ascot Star 96 Great South Rd T09/520 2804 and 92 Great South Rd T0800/922 002, Wwww.ascotsyar.co.nz. One of the cheapest motels in town, with small s/c studios, has joined forces with its more illustrious next-door neighbour. 3 Off Broadway Motel Newmarket 11 Alpers Ave T0800/427 623, Wwww.offbroadway.co.nz. Business-oriented hotel with a/c, soundproofed en-suite rooms and a gym. Plump for the much larger suites if you can. Studios 4 , suites 6

101

Siesta 70 Great South Rd T 0800/743 782, W www.siestamotel.co.nz. Good modern family-run motel with kitchenless studios and self-catering units. Studios 3 , units 4

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

B&Bs and guesthouses Auckland’s stock of B&Bs and guesthouses is expanding. New places continually open, many pitching for the upper end of the market, with just a few rooms and an almost obsessive attention to detail. Places are scattered widely around the inner suburbs on the south side of the harbour and in the North Shore suburb of Devonport. Note that airport shuttle buses will drop you in Devonport for only a few dollars extra. Parnell

| Accommodation

See map on p.113. Ascot Parnell St Stephens Ave T09/309 9012, Wwww.ascotparnell.com. Very swish and comfy accommodation with a large lounge opening onto a balcony overlooking the harbour, luxurious private bathrooms, Internet access and a ﬁlling breakfast. 8

Ponsonby and Herne Bay See map on p.117. Amitee’s 237 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby T09/378 6325 Wwww.amitees.com. Petite urban hotel with smallish en-suite rooms sporting chic modern decor, all with access to the lounge (with honesty bar) where a help-yourself continental breakfast is served. If the rooms seem too small, step up to the penthouse with its own TV den and city views. Rooms 6 , penthouse 9 The Great Ponsonby B&B 30 Ponsonby Terrace, Ponsonby T09/376 5989, W www .greatpons.co.nz. This welcoming boutique hotel, in a restored 1898 villa 3min walk from Ponsonby Rd, is the pick of the crop. Boldly decorated in ocean tones using native timbers and Paciﬁc artworks; everyone has use of the sunny lounge and shaded garden and the breakfasts are a delight. The luxurious, en-suite rooms come with Sky TV; there are also self-catering studio units (8 ). Rooms 7 Herne Bay B&B 4 Shelly Beach Rd, Herne Bay T09/360 0309, Wwww.herne-bay.co.nz. Low-key B&B in a large, refurbished Edwardian house converted to accommodate several styles of room, some with their own kitchen. Basic rooms share facilities, the larger en suites have a separate living area and there’s a two-bedroom apartment. Continental breakfast is included and there’s also access to a partly restored rooftop turret. Basic 3 , en suites 5 , apartment 6

Devonport 102

Tudor Court 108 Great South Rd T0800/826 878, [emailprotected]. Compact motel with small hotel-style rooms and slightly larger ones with kitchenettes. 3

See map on p.119. 108 Victoria Rd 108 Victoria Rd, Devonport T 09/445 7565, E [emailprotected]. A B&B with

two rooms overlooking a saltwater swimming pool and a cottage in lush gardens. Breakfast costs extra, there’s a late checkout and both rooms can be rented as one. Rooms 4 cottage 7 The Garden Room 23 Cheltenham Rd, Devonport T09/445 2472, Wwww.devonportgardenroom .co.nz. Choose between the lovely private cottage in the leafy garden or the room inside the main house, both of which are done to a very high standard; sumptuous breakfasts can be served under an arbour or in your room. 5 Mahoe B&B 15b King Edward Parade, Devonport T09/445 1515, Wwww.mahoe.co.nz. Lovely property set back from the waterfront, in the heart of Devonport, tastefully furnished and offering either B&B in the house or a separate fully s/c apartment. 6 Parituhu Beachstay 3 King Edward Parade, Devonport T09/445 6559, Wwww.parituhu.co.nz. A gay-friendly budget B&B homestay in the heart of Devonport that overlooks the harbour, with just the one room, a private bath, access to a secluded garden and self-service breakfast. 5 Peace & Plenty Inn 6 Flagstaff Terrace, Devonport T09/445 2925, Wwww .peaceandplenty.co.nz. One of New Zealand’s ﬁnest B&Bs, yet relaxed and well priced. Elegantly restored kauri ﬂoorboards lead through to a lovely veranda, past exquisite rooms ﬁlled with fresh ﬂowers and equipped with sherry and port. Venture outside the bounds of the inn and you’re right in the heart of Devonport. 9

Birkenhead and Northcote See map on p.97. Number One House 1 Princes St, Northcote Point T09/480 7659, Wwww.nz-homestay.co.nz. Hospitable B&B with views across the Waitemata Harbour to the city and Rangitoto Island. It has a small beach, easy city access by ferry, two rooms, a s/c apartment and a quirky garden with a little

Mount Eden and Remuera

Hostels Auckland has stacks of backpacker hostels competing for your custom. Most are set up to assist new arrivals to plan onward travel, to the extent of having fully staffed on-site travel services – sometimes pushing favoured trips and activities, but generally offering impartial advice. There’s a definite trade-off between the convenice offered by downtown hostels and the relative quiet of places outside the centre. Most central hostels, with the exception of the YHAs, cram in the beds and, with bars and clubs only a short stagger away, cater to party animals. Hostels in the inner suburbs – Parnell, Ponsonby and Mount Eden – tend to be less boisterous affairs, often in old, converted houses, sometimes with gardens and usually with parking. As you’d expect, prices are higher than in the rest of the country, though you can still get dorm bunks for around $22. Small dorms and four-shares hover around $25 and most doubles and twins are $55–80. If you’re arriving during the peak summer season, try to book in advance. Central Auckland See map on p.106. base Auckland 16–22 Fort St T09/300 9999, W www.stayatbase.com. Classy conversion of a city ofﬁce building into a good hostel on seven ﬂoors complete with rooftop kitchen and outdoor barbecue area. There’s also a spa pool, sauna, good travel desk, a bargain café and a lively bar that goes off most nights. Accommodation is in a range of dorms (4–12 beds), doubles and twins, and there’s a separate women-only “sanctuary” ﬂoor with extra pampering. Dorms $26–28, sanctuary $30, en-suite double 3 base Auckland Central 229 Queen St T 0800/462 396, Wwww.stayatbase.com. Enormous, well-run hostel in a ten-storey converted ofﬁce building. Despite the inevitable impersonality of housing several hundred, everything runs smoothly and it seldom feels too crowded. They’ve thought of everything, including a

downstairs bar, separate terrace bar with nightly sausage sizzle, Internet centre, helpful travel ofﬁce, laundry, gear storage and electronic key access to each ﬂoor and public areas. Mixed dorms sleep up to eight but it’s worth the extra for a mixed fourbed dorm supplied with sheets. There’s all sorts of evening activities, and parking nearby ($7 overnight, $20 for 24hr). Big dorms $25, small dorms $28, rooms 3 , en suites with TV 3 BK Hostel 3 Mercury Lane T09/307 0052, W www.bkhostel.co.nz. Well-kept hostel in the heart of the lively K’ Road district. No dorms as such, just three-bed shares, doubles and twins with cheaper rates for those without windows. Common areas are spacious and security is good. Shares $25–27, rooms 2 City Groove 6 Constitution Hill T09/303 4768, W www.citygroove.co.nz. Small, slightly cramped accommodation, an easy walk from both the CBD and Parnell, that ﬁlls the gap between city and

| Accommodation

See map on p.122. Buses #274, #275 and #277 run from stand D16 on Customs St East in the CBD

to Mount Eden shops, passing close to both these B&Bs. Aachen House 39 Market Rd, Remuera T 0800/222 436, W www.aachenhouse.co.nz. Elegant, if somewhat snooty boutique B&B in an Edwardian house decorated with antiques. Rooms are spacious, beds huge and breakfasts delicious. 8 Bavaria 83 Valley Rd, Mount Eden T 09/638 9641, W www.bavariabandbhotel.co.nz. Eleven-room B&B in a spacious, comfortable suburban villa that boasts a pleasant deck and garden. It’s popular with German-speakers who appreciate the Teutonic touches to the buffet continental breakfast. Buses from downtown pass close by. 5

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

hobbit house. Great breakfast, plus the opportunity to go out on the owner’s yacht (around $225 per person per day). Rooms & apartment 6 Stafford Villa 2 Awanui St, Birkenhead T09/418 3022, Wwww.staffordvilla.co.nz. Located on a quiet street in one of the North Shore’s more venerable waterside suburbs, where there are several good restaurants and an excellent cinema, this top-notch place offers just two period-furnished en-suite rooms in an elegant century-old villa. Guests have access to a drawing room and a comfy library (with complimentary port), and are treated to a sumptuous breakfast. Rates are $395–445. 9

103

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Accommodation

suburban hostels. Relaxed atmosphere, small garden and limited parking. Dorms $20, shares $22, rooms 2 , en suite 2 The Fat Camel 38 Fort St T 09/307 0181, W www.nomadsworld.com. Solid downtown hostel with a bar, café and travel desk. The emphasis is on twins and doubles, though small dorms are available, arranged in small ﬂats with their own kitchens. Dorms $23, shares $26, windowless rooms 2 , with windows 2 YHA Auckland City Corner of City Rd & Liverpool St T 09/309 2802, E yha.aucklandcity @yha.co.nz. Large and central YHA with seven ﬂoors of mostly twin and double rooms – the upper ones with ﬁne city views – plus wellequipped common areas, a large travel centre and a bistro on site. Single-sex and mixed dorms $22, four-shares $24, rooms 2 YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St T09/302 8200, E yha.aucklandint@yha .co.nz. Just down the hill and even larger than its brother, this purpose-built YHA is thoroughly modern, with excellent cooking facilities, spacious rooms, separate TV and quiet lounges, Internet access and a travel centre. They even have a few free parking spaces; book early. Single-sex dorms $22, single-sex and mixed four-shares $26, rooms 3 , en-suite rooms 4

Parnell See map on p.113. City Garden Lodge 25 St George’s Bay Rd T09/302 0880, W www.citygardenlodge .co.nz. Friendly backpackers in a large, wellorganized villa originally built for the Queen of Tonga, and surrounded by expansive lawns. Along with Internet access there are spacious dorms, some lovely doubles/twins and even a yoga/ meditation room (classes available). Dorms $24, shares $25, rooms 2 International Backpackers 2 Churton St T 09/358 4584, E [emailprotected]. One-time home for wayward girls but now a friendly, spacious hostel on a quiet street 3min from Parnell with street parking and rejuvenated rooms. Large dorm $17, smaller dorms $22, rooms 2 , en suite 2 Lantana Lodge 60 St George’s Bay Rd T09/373 4546 Wwww.lantanalodge.co.nz. Small, clean and friendly hostel with wireless and a homely feel. Linen included. Dorms $23, rooms 2

Ponsonby See map on p.117. Brown Kiwi 7 Prosford St T09/378 0191, W www.brownkiwi.co.nz. Compact, cosy little hostel in a restored Victorian villa on a quiet street close to the Ponsonby cafés. A patio and tiny garden at the back helps the relaxing atmosphere. Daytime parking is poor but it’s easily accessible by the Link bus. Dorms $22, share $24, doubles and twins 2 Uenuku Lodge 217 Ponsonby Rd T09/378 8990, W www.uenukulodge.co.nz. Comfortable, goodvalue hostel worked into a warren of an old boarding house just steps from the action on Ponsonby Rd and on the Link bus route. It’s bright, clean, good value and there’s parking. Dorms $25, shares $29, twins 2 , doubles 2 Verandahs 6 Hopetoun St T09/360 4180, Wwww.verandahs.co.nz. Lovely, wellappointed, welcoming backpackers in a 1905 villa, overlooking a leafy park with city views that intentionally lacks TV. Offers off-street parking and a selection of spacious accommodation, as well as rooms in the recently renovated house next door. Dorms $25, shares $27–29, rooms 2

Mount Eden See map on p.122. Buses #274, #275 and #277 run from stand D16 on Customs St East in the CBD to Mount Eden shops, passing close to all these hostels. Bamber House 22 View Rd T09/623 4267, Wwww.hostelbackpacker.com. Spacious, well-managed hostel partly in a lovely old colonial house and partly in a swish modern house. There’s a large lawn out front and a host of other facilities including wireless Internet. Dorms $25, shares $28, rooms and en suites 2 Oaklands Lodge 5a Oaklands Rd T 09/638 6545, W www.oaklands.co.nz. Run by the folk above, this large two-storey Victorian house right by Mount Eden shops has mostly dorms with beds rather than bunks, and an abundance of separate lounge areas. Dorms $23, shares $25, rooms 2 Pentlands 22 Pentlands Ave T09/638 7031, W www.pentlands.co.nz. Slightly ageing, laid-back hostel in a quiet suburban street 10min walk from Mount Eden shops and cafés. Big lounge, plenty of videos and loads of parking. Dorms $23, shares $25, rooms 2

Campsites and motor parks 104

You’d have to travel a long way to find a genuinely attractive spot to pitch a tent. There are numerous, well-equipped motor camps within the city limits

that are fine for campervans and offer bargain cabins, though without your own vehicle, you’ll end up spending a lot of money on buses.

Central Auckland The central city street names represent a roll call of prime movers in New Zealand’s early European history. The city’s backbone, Queen Street, along with its attendant royal acolytes, Victoria and Albert streets, forms a central grid bedded with thoroughfares commemorating the country’s first GovernorGeneral, William Hobson, Willoughby Shortland, New Zealand’s first colonial secretary, and William Symonds, who chivvied along local Maori chiefs reluctant to sign the Treaty of Waitangi. Downtown clings to the southern shores of the Waitemata Harbour, the latter connected to the city through the developments round the Maritime Museum and the adjacent waterside rejuvenation of Viaduct Harbour and Princes Wharf; essentially flashy restaurants and swanky apartments dotted round a marina. Downbeat Queen Street, the main drag, strikes south through the city centre, largely sustained by banks and insurance companies. There’s little of abiding interest unless you’re designer label shopping on the more exclusive side streets, or fancy something more cultural in the form of the Auckland Art Gallery, currently undergoing a transformation (see p.108). Albert Park, wedged between the Gallery and the University, makes a nice break from the concrete jungle. At the top of Queen Street lies Karangahape Road (colloquially K’ Road), an altogether groovier strip of cheaper shops, ethnic restaurants and more down and dirty clubs. The Domain, an extensive swathe of parkland with trees and lawns, sweeps towards the harbour. It is Auckland’s premier green space, laid out around the city’s most-visited attraction, the Auckland Museum, exhibiting stunning Maori and Pacific Island artefacts.

| Central Auckland

Remuera Motor Lodge and Inner City Camping Ground 16 Minto Rd T 09/524 5126, [emailprotected]. About the most central and convenient site, 6km east of the city in a quiet residential area. There’s even a swimming pool, and buses stop close by. Camping $14–15, dorms $24, tourist ﬂats 3 , motel units 4 Takapuna Beach Holiday Park 22 The Promenade, Takapuna T09/489 7909, W www .takapunabeach.kiwiholidaypark.com. Beachside caravan park on the North Shore overlooking Rangitoto and 5min walk from Takapuna shops and restaurants. There are regular buses to central Auckland. Camping $14, cabins & on-site vans 2 , en-suite caravans 2 , tourist ﬂats 3

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Auckland North Shore Top 10 Holiday Park 52 Northcote Rd, Takapuna T 0508/909 090 & 09/418 2578, W www.nsmotels.co.nz. Wellappointed site on the North Shore just off the northern motorway, with an indoor swimming pool and extensive BBQ areas. Stagecoach buses stop nearby. Tents and vans $35 per site, cabins 2 , tourist ﬂats 3 , motel units 4 Avondale Motor Park 46 Bollard Ave, Avondale T 0800/100 542, Wwww.aucklandmotorpark.co. nz. Restful, fairly central site 6km southwest of the city and accessible by bus #211 or #212 from Symonds St. Camping $14, on-site vans 1 , cabins 2 , tourist ﬂats 3

Downtown and Viaduct Harbour Auckland’s waterfront was on Fort Street (originally Fore Street), but progressive reclamation shifted the shoreline 300m to the north, creating space for Downtown Auckland, which centres on the striking Britomart Transport

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Centre, located inside the neoclassical 1910 former post office at the northern end of Queen Street. The street ends at the dockside Ferry Building, a neoclassical 1912 brick structure that is still the hub of the Waitemata Harbour ferry services and home to the local DOC office. The chaotic bustle of the days before the harbour bridge is now a distant memory, but the ebb and flow remains, as commuters and sightseers board speedy catamarans to Devonport and Rangitoto, Waiheke and Great Barrier islands. Since the mid-1990s, the majority of the waterfront activity has shifted a couple of hundred metres west to Viaduct Harbour, smartened up in preparation for New Zealand’s successful defence of the America’s Cup, in 2000. Unfortunately the second defence, in 2003, suffered ignominious defeat at the hands of that famous ocean-sailing nation, the Swiss – primarily because of defections by crucial Kiwi personnel to the better-paying Swiss team.There’s nothing left of the once-scruffy fishing port; instead, exclusive apartments, expensive yacht berths, flash restaurants and themed bars epitomize the new regime. 106

National Maritime Museum

The only sight downtown is the National Maritime Museum, Viaduct Harbour, on the corner of Quay and Hobson streets (daily: Nov–Easter

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AUCKL AND AND AROUND

9am–6pm; Easter–Oct 9am–5pm; $16; W www.nzmaritime.org), which pays homage to the maritime history of an island nation reliant on the sea for colonization, trade and sport. The short Te Waka video shows an imagined Maori migration voyage, setting the scene for a display of outrigger and double-hulled canoes from all over the South Pacific. There’s a huge variety of designs, employed for fishing, lagoon sailing and ocean voyaging – the last represented by the massive 23m-long Taratai, which carried New Zealand photographer and writer James Siers and a crew of thirteen over 2400km from Kiribati to Fiji in 1976. The creaking and rolling innards of a migrant ship and displays on New Zealand’s coastal traders and whalers lead on to a collection of just about every class of yacht, culminating in the devotional exhibits on yacht racing. Other highlights include an early example of the Hamilton Jetboat, which was designed for shallow, braided Canterbury rivers; a replica of a classic 1950s holiday bach with great archival film footage adding to the nostalgic flavour; and the Edmiston and Fraser collections, containing maritime art. There are interesting guided tours (usually Mon–Fri 11am, Sat 11am or 1pm; free), and rides on the little steam tug, SS Puke (two Sun each month, $5).There are also one-hour cruises on the Ted Ashby (Tues, Thurs, Sat & Sun noon & 2pm; $15, $24 including museum entry, twilight harbour cruises, two Thursdays each month, $30), a 1990s replica of one of the traditional flat-bottomed, ketchrigged scows that once worked the North Island tidal waterways.

The liveliest section of the central city is High Street, south of downtown, energized by bookshops and trendy clothes stores. Most of the action happens around the junction with the former blacksmithing street of Vulcan Lane, now dominated by bars and restaurants. The city centre is dominated by the concrete Skytower, on the corner of Victoria and Federal streets (Mon–Thurs & Sun 8.30am–10.30pm, Fri & Sat 8.30am–11.30pm; $25, upper viewing extra $3), built in the mid-1990s as a

107 Skytower,

New Zealand’s tallest building

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Central Auckland

symbol for the city in the run-up to the new millennium. At 328m, it just pips the Eiffel Tower and Sydney’s Centrepoint, and is New Zealand’s tallest structure. The obligatory observation decks (192m and 220m) offer stupendous views over the city and Hauraki Gulf and there’s also a revolving restaurant and a couple of adventure activities (see p.125). Normally floodlit white, it periodically gets a makeover – red and green for Christmas, red and gold for Chinese New Year and pink for breast cancer week. The tower sprouts from the Sky City Casino, whose gaming floor, awash in deep blue and green decor, contains all the usual distractions. One of Queen Street’s few buildings of distinction is the Art Nouveau Civic Theatre, on the corner of Wellesley Street. The talk of the town when it opened in 1929, the management went as far as to import a small Indian boy from Fiji to complement the ornate Moghul-style decor. After renovation in 2000 it reopened in its full splendour, complete with a star-strewn artificial sky and an ornate proscenium arch with flanking lions, their eyes blazing red. It’s well worth a look, but unless you happen to strike one of the infrequent open days, the only way to get inside is to see a performance (see p.134). Bang next door, but architecturally miles away, is a chunky postmodern multiplex cinema. It flanks Aotea Square, which is overlooked on its other sides by the Town Hall and the city’s foremost concert hall, the Aotea Centre, which opened in a blaze of glory in 1990, with Kiri Te Kanawa performing on the inaugural night. On Friday and Saturday (10am–6pm), the arts, crafts, fashion, vintage clothing, local comestibles, jewellery and Pacifica stalls of the Aotea Square Markets bring the square to life and attempt to relieve visitors of a few dollars. Albert Park and the Auckland Art Gallery

Moving east of Queen Street, Wellesley Street runs up to Albert Park, formal Victorian-style gardens which spread uphill from the Auckland Art Gallery to the university. Originally the site of a Maori pa, the land was successively conscripted into service as Albert Barracks in the 1840s and 50s, and then as a labyrinthine network of air-raid shelters during World War II, before relaxing into its current incarnation as parkland thronged with sunbathing students and office workers. It comes filled with a century’s worth of memorials, a floral clock, some beautiful oaks, Morton Bay fig trees and the 1882 former gatekeeper’s cottage. On the eastern edge of Albert Park, the Auckland Art Gallery (daily 10am–5pm; free but with fees for special exhibitions; infoline T 09/307 7700, W www.aucklandartgallery.govt.nz) comes in two parts – one predominantly traditional, the other resolutely contemporary – that jointly make up the world’s most important collection of Kiwi art. The Heritage Gallery was closed for a massive and highly impressive upgrade in 2008, due for completion in 2010. The galleries

108

The elaborate mock-French Heritage Gallery, on the corner of Wellesley and Kitchener streets, is out of bounds while it’s being enhanced, and all exhibitions are at the New Gallery, across the street on the corner of Wellesley and Lorne streets. It has two light and spacious floors and contains elements of the Heritage Gallery collection as well as site-specific installations by predominantly New Zealand, and particularly Maori, artists. One name to look out for is Colin McCahon, whose fascination with the power and beauty of New Zealand landscape informs much recent Kiwi art. Others, such as Gordon Walters, draw their inspiration from Maori iconography, in Walters’ case

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Central Auckland

controversially employing vibrant, graphic representations of traditional Maori symbols (for more on Maori design, see “Maoritanga”, p.893). The Heritage Gallery collection includes a small, respectable representation of world art and an extensive collection of homegrown. At any one time you may see original drawings by artists on Cook’s expeditions or overwrought oils depicting Maori migrations. These romantic images, seen through European eyes, frequently show composite scenes that could never have happened, contributing to a mythical view that persisted for decades. Much of the rest of the early collection is devoted to works by two of the country’s most loved artists – both highly respected by Maori as among the few to accurately portray their ancestors. Bohemian immigrant Gottfried Lindauer emigrated to New Zealand in 1873 and spent his later years painting lifelike, almost documentary, portraits of rangatira (chiefs) and high-born Maori men and women, in the mistaken belief that the Maori people were about to become extinct. In the early part of the twentieth century, Charles F. Goldie became New Zealand’s resident “old master” and earned international recognition for his more emotional portraits of elderly Maori regally showing off their traditional tattoos, or moko, though they were in fact often painted from photographs (sometimes after the subject’s death). Contemporary landscape painters largely projected European visions of beauty onto New Zealand landscapes, reducing vibrant visions to subdued scenes reminiscent of English parkland, north European seas and Swiss Alps. It took half a century for more representative images to become the norm – an evolutionary process that continued into the 1960s and 70s, when many works betray an almost cartoon-like quality, with heavily delineated spaces daubed in shocking colours. Look out for works by Rita Angus, renowned for her images of Central Otago in the 1940s, and Tony Fomison (1939–1990), painter of one of the gallery’s most expensive works, Study of Holbein’s “Dead Christ”. Completed in 1973, it’s typical of his later, more obsessive period, combining the artist’s passion for art history and his preoccupation with mortality. Also worth a look are the works of Russell Clark (1905–1966), who painted scenes from everyday working life.

Karangahape Road At its southern end, Queen Street climbs to the ridge-top Karangahape Road, universally known as K’ Road. Formerly an uptown residential area for prosperous nineteenth-century merchants, it later became associated with Auckland’s Polynesian community, but now only a couple of consulates and a Samoan church remain. For twenty years planners have hailed a mainstream shopping renaissance but K’ Road remains determinedly niche. Groovy cafés, music shops specializing in vinyl and clothes shops selling budget designer garb rub shoulders with colourful stores run by East and South Asians. There are no specific sights, but you can easily pass an afternoon browsing the shops and eating in ethnic restaurants. K’ Road is much loved by those who know it and much maligned by those who don’t – chiefly on account of the notoriety associated with its western end, a two-hundred-metre-long corridor of massage parlours, strip joints and gay cruising clubs. It is certainly one of the seedier parts of town but the raunchy places are interspersed with mainstream nightclubs and there is always a vibrant feel that is seldom intimidating, though the usual precautions should be exercised at night. Further east, K’ Road crosses Symonds Street by the little-known and somewhat neglected Symonds Street Cemetery, one of Auckland’s earliest

109

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

burial grounds, with allocations for Jewish, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic and Anglican faiths – the last two areas largely destroyed by the motorway cut through Grafton Gully in the 1960s. A patch of deciduous woodland shades the grave of New Zealand’s first Governor, William Hobson, tucked away on the eastern side of Symonds Street almost under the vast concrete span of Grafton Bridge.

The Domain

| Central Auckland

Grafton Gully separates the city centre from The Domain, a swathe of semiformal gardens draped over the low, irregular profile of an extinct volcano known to Maori as Pukekawa or “hill of bitter memories”, a reference to the bloodshed of ancient inter-tribal fighting. In the 1840s, when Auckland was the national capital, Governor Grey set aside the core of The Domain as the city’s first park and it remains its finest, furnished with mid-nineteenth-century accoutrements: a band rotunda, phoenix palms, formal flowerbeds and spacious lawns. In summer, the rugby pitches metamorphose into cricket ovals and softball diamonds and marquees and stages are erected in the crater’s shallow amphitheatre for outdoor musical extravaganzas. The Domain’s volcanic spring was one of Auckland’s original water sources. It was used to farm the country’s first rainbow trout in 1884 and by the Auckland Acclimatization Society to grow European plants, thereby promoting the rapid Europeanization of the New Zealand countryside. The spirit of this enterprise lingers on in the Wintergardens (Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am– 5.30pm, Sun 9am–7.30pm; April–Oct daily 9am–4.30pm; free), a shallow fishpond in a formal sunken courtyard flanked by two elaborate barrel-roofed glasshouses – one temperate, the other heated to mimic tropical climes – filled with neatly tended botanical specimens. Next door, a former scoria quarry has been transformed into the Fernz Fernery (same hours; free), a green dell with over a hundred types of fern in dry, intermediate and wet habitats. Auckland Museum

110

The highest point on The Domain is crowned by the imposing Greco-Romanstyle Auckland Museum (daily 10am–5pm; $5, valid for repeated entry on one day; W www.akmuseum.org.nz). Built as a World War I memorial in 1929, the names of World War II battles were duly added around the outer walls. The contents of Auckland’s original city museum were moved here and the holdings expanded to form one of the world’s finest collections of Maori and Pacific art and craft. The museum has retained a traditional approach but is thoroughly contemporary in its execution, with each of the three floors taking on an individual identity – Pacific people (ground), natural history (middle) and New Zealand at War (top). A 2006 revamp introduced a new atrium, containing a bowl-shaped building covered in Fijian kauri, hanging above the ground, the whole shebang housed beneath an undulating glass and copper dome. You can enter from this end of the building but the museum makes more sense from the foyer entrance, the new space providing an intriguing space in which to sit and have coffee or a snack (daily 10am–5pm). Kids are catered for with the Children’s Discovery Centre on the middle floor and if you’re interested in buying Maori crafts, check out the high-quality traditional and contemporary work in the museum shop. To round off the experience, head along to the thirty-minute Manaia cultural performance (daily 11am, noon & 1.30pm, also Jan–March 2.30pm; $20) of song and dance, heralded by a conch-blast.

Auckland Museum is on the route of the Coast to Coast Walkway and the city tour buses. Both the Link bus and regular #283 bus stop on Park Road, five minutes’ walk away. Ground Floor AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Central Auckland

Entering from the foyer entrance, turn left as you enter to reach the Pacific Lifeways room, which mainly concentrates on daily life and is dominated by a simple yet majestic breadfruit-wood statue from the Caroline Islands depicting Kave, Polynesia’s malevolent and highest-ranked female deity, whose menace is barely hinted at in this serene form. This leads on to the Maori Court, an extensive collection marking the transition from purely Polynesian motifs to an identifiably Maori style. It’s exemplified in the Kaitaia Carving, a two-and-ahalf-metre-wide totara carving (in the first case as you enter) thought to have been designed for a ceremonial gateway, guarded by the central goblin-like figure with sweeping arms that stretch out to become lizard forms at their extremities: Polynesian in style but Maori in concept. It was found in 1920 near Kaitaia and is estimated to date from the fourteenth or fifteenth century, predating most Maori art so far discovered. As traditional Maori villages started to disappear towards the end of the nineteenth century, some of the best examples of carved panels, meeting houses and food stores were rescued. Many are currently displayed here, though some of the exhibits are claimed by Maori groups throughout the country and may ultimately be returned to their traditional owners.The main gallery is dominated by Hotunui, a large and wonderfully restored carved whare whakairo (meeting house), built near Thames in 1878, late enough to have a corrugated iron rather than rush roof, and re-erected here in 1929. Once again the craftsmanship is superb; the house’s exterior bristles with grotesque faces, lolling tongues and glistening paua-shell eyes, while the interior is lined with wonderful geometric tukutuku panels. Outside is the intricately carved prow and stern-piece of Te Toki a Tapiri, a 25m-long waka taua (war canoe) designed to seat a hundred warriors, the only surviving specimen from the pre-European era. Beyond the canoe you’re into the main Pacific Island collection, known as Pacific Masterpieces, filled with exquisite Polynesian, Melanesian and Micronesian works. Look out for the shell-inlaid ceremonial food bowl from the Solomon Islands, ceremonial clubs and a wonderfully resonant slit-drum from Vanuatu. The textiles are fabulous too, with designs far more varied than you’d expect considering the limited raw materials: the Hawaiian red feather cloak is especially fine. Middle Floor

The middle floor of the museum comprises the natural history galleries, an unusual combination of modern thematic displays and stuffed birds in cases. It charts the progress from the “Big Bang” through an exploration of plate tectonics and the break up of Gondwanaland, the geology and seismology of New Zealand and its flora and fauna. Dinosaur skeletons allude to their presence here until 65 million years ago, something scientists had discounted until the 1970s when fossils started turning up. Displays like the three-metre Giant Moa (an ostrich-like bird) and an 800kg ammonite can’t be missed, but there’s a lot of stuff virtually hidden so be prepared to take your time. Armed with the knowledge of how New Zealand came to be, you proceed to a series of ecosystems including a reconstruction of a cave in Waitomo and a threestorey-high model of a kauri tree. Also worth a look is the Maori Natural History display, which attempts to explain the unique Maori perspective

111

unencumbered by Western scientific thinking, and the lively volcanoes display which relies heavily on said science. Top Floor AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| The suburbs

A multi-levelled approach is used on the top floor in the Scars on the Heart exhibition, an emotional exploration of how New Zealanders’ involvement in war has helped shape national identity. At any time you are able to divert from the main timeline and explore specific topics in more detail via interactive displays with personal accounts of the troops’ experiences and the responses of those back home. You enter Scars on the Heart through a slightly incongruous mock-up of an 1860s Auckland street that sets the scene for the New Zealand Wars, interpreted from both Maori and Pakeha perspectives. World War I gets extensive coverage, particularly the Gallipoli campaign in Turkey, when botched leadership led to a massacre of ANZAC – Australian and New Zealand Army Corps – troops in the trenches. Powerful visuals and rousing martial music accompany newsreel footage of the Pacific campaigns of World War II and finally New Zealand’s foray into Vietnam is briefly documented.

The suburbs You’re likely to spend more time in the suburbs than you are in the centre of the city, as the bulk of the specific sights lie outside the CBD. Parnell forms the ecclesiastical heart of the city, with one of Auckland’s oldest churches and a couple of historical houses. Beyond lies the waterfront Tamaki Drive, running past the watery attractions of Kelly Tarlton’s to the city beaches of Mission Bay and St Heliers. West of the centre, the suburbs spread out beyond Freeman’s Bay to Auckland’s most concentrated cluster of restaurants and cafés along Ponsonby Road, and out to Western Springs, home of the MOTAT transport museum. Across the Waitemata Harbour the seemingly endless suburbs of the North Shore stretch into the distance, though you’re only likely to want to spend much time in the old waterside suburb of Devonport and perhaps the long golden beach at Takapuna. Immediately south of the centre, two of Auckland’s highest points, Mount Eden and One Tree Hill with its encircling Cornwall Park, provide wonderful vantage points for views of the city. The main reason for heading further south is to visit Saturday’s Otara Market.

East of the city centre

112

The Auckland Domain separates the city from the fashionable inner suburbs of Parnell and Newmarket, the former an established, moneyed district of restaurants, boutiques and galleries with a modest line in churches and historical houses. To the east lies Auckland’s prime waterfront, traced by Tamaki Drive, a twisting thoroughfare that skirts eight kilometres of Auckland’s most popular city beaches – Mission Bay, Kohimarama and St Heliers. During the summer, the waterfront is the favoured hangout of rollerbladers and recreational cyclists. Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World is the only specific sight, but the harbour views out to Rangitoto and the Hauraki Gulf are excellent both from shore level and from a couple of headland viewpoints. The gentle hills behind are dotted with the secluded mansions of leafy Remuera, Auckland’s old-money

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makes an appealing place to spend "$$0..0%"5*0/ 3&45"63"/54 $"'²4#"34 half a day, sipping lattes at pavement "TDPU1BSOFMM & "TJBO'PPE)BMM .VTUBOH4BMPPO #PESVN /PO4PMP1J[[B cafés and exploring some of the $JUZ(BSEFO 1BOEPSP -PEHF $ $IPDPMBUF marks left by the area’s long history. *OUFSOBUJPOBM #PVUJRVF 1PSUPmOP 4USBXCFSSZ " $JCP At the southern end of Parnell Road #BDLQBDLFST -BOUBOB-PEHF # %J.BSF "MBSN$MPDL stands one of the world’s largest 1BSOFMM*OO % +BWB3PPN 4VO8PSME .FDDB ;BSCP wooden churches, the Cathedral Church of St Mary (Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 12.30–4pm; free), built from native timbers in 1886. Inside, the most interesting feature is a series of photos taken on the dramatic day in 1984 when the church was rolled in one piece from its original site across Parnell Road to join its more modern kin, the Auckland Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 11am–5pm; free). The original Gothic chancel was started in 1959 then left half-finished until the late 1980s, when an airy nave with a Swiss chalet-style roof was grafted on, supposedly in imitation of the older church alongside. The result is shambolic. It is, however, worth

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suburb. Further east is the suburban heartland of Panmure, Pakuranga and the former “fencible” settlement of Howick.

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admiring the modern stained-glass windows at the back; the bold and bright side panels symbolize Maori and Pakeha contributions to society. The most recent additions are the eighteen glass panels lining the nave. The more colourful set are by artist Robert Ellis but the most striking are by Maori artist Shane Cotton, who uses a unifying palette of muted reds, browns and greens. The Gothic flourishes of the nineteenth-century church show the influence of New Zealand’s prominent missionary bishop, George Selwyn. With his favoured architect, Frederick Thatcher, Selwyn left behind a trail of trademark wooden Selwyn churches, distinguished by vertical timber battens – examples include St Stephen’s Chapel, down the hill at Judges Bay (see below) and All Saints’ at Howick (see p.116). In 1857, Selwyn commissioned Thatcher to build the nearby Kinder House, at 2 Ayr St (Tues–Sun 11am–3pm; $4), for the headmaster of the new grammar school – a post filled by John Kinder, an accomplished watercolourist and documentary photographer. Built of roughhewn Mount Eden volcanic rock, the house contains some interesting photos and reproductions of Kinder’s paintings of nineteenth-century New Zealand. Just down the road is Ewelme Cottage, 14 Ayr St (Fri–Sun 10.30am–noon & 1–4.30pm; $7.50, $15 joint ticket with Highwic in Newmarket, see below and Alberton, see p.118; T 09/379 0202), a pioneer kauri house built as a family home in 1864 for the wonderfully named Howick clergyman Vicesimus Lush. The appeal of the place lies not so much in the house but in its furniture and possessions, left just as they were when Lush’s descendants finally moved out in 1968, the family heirlooms betraying a desire to replicate the home comforts of their native Oxfordshire. Judges Bay and Newmarket

114

From the cathedral you can continue south to Newmarket (see below) or northeast down Gladstone Road to Dove-Myer Robinson Park and the Parnell Rose Gardens (unrestricted entry; free), where five thousand bushes are at their glorious best from October to April. The park sweeps down to Judges Bay, named for three officers of the colony’s Supreme Court who lived here from 1841, commuting to the courts on Symonds Street by rowboat. Bishop Selwyn used to stay with his friend, the Chief Justice William Martin, and had St Stephen’s Chapel (usually closed) built nearby on a prominent knoll overlooking the harbour; the waterside Judges Bay Road leads to the open-air saltwater Parnell Baths. The southern continuation of Parnell Road runs into Broadway, the main drag through fashion-conscious NEWMARKET, on the eastern flanks of Mount Eden. In the last decade it has transformed itself into one of the city’s top shopping districts, complete with good places to eat. Just south of the shops, Great South Road is lined with motels (see p.101). Specific sights are few in these parts, though you may be tempted by Lionzone, 380 Khyber Pass Rd (tours daily 9.30am, 12.15pm & 3pm; $15 bookings T 09/358 8366, W www.lionzone.co.nz), a self-promoting introduction to New Zealand’s largest brewery involving a historical perspective, a look at the packing lines and a chance to sample the product. It’s better than your average brewery tour but at almost two hours a long-winded way to get a drink. If you are staying over this way, consider visiting the Gothic timber mansion of Highwic, 40 Gillies Ave (Wed–Sun 10.30am–noon & 1–4.30pm; $7.50, $15 joint ticket with Ewelme Cottage in Parnell, see above, and Alberton, see p.118; T 09/524 5729), built as a “city” property by a wealthy rural auctioneer and landowner in 1862. The estate, complete with outbuildings and servants’ quarters, gives a fair indication of the contrasting lives of the time. From here

it’s a short walk to Eden Garden, 24 Omana Ave (daily 9am–4.30pm; $5; W www.edengarden.co.nz), an enclave created in a former quarry and tended by volunteers.There’s year-round interest with a little of everything from watergardens, cacti and proteas to Australasia’s largest and most varied collection of camellias, in bloom from April to October.

| The suburbs

Quay Street runs east from the foot of Queen Street, soon becoming Tamaki Drive, which separates Waitemata Harbour from Judges Bay. Crossing the causeway to Okahu Bay brings you to Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World, 23 Tamaki Drive (daily 9am–6pm; $29.50 valid all day; W www.kellytarltons.co.nz). City tour buses and Stagecoach buses numbered #745 and #769 stop outside and Tarlton’s shuttle runs from the Sky City atrium for $2 (one way). Opened in 1985, Underwater World was the brainchild of Kiwi diver, treasure hunter and salvage expert Kelly Tarlton, who converted some huge sewage tanks that, from 1910 until 1961, flushed the city’s effluent into Waitemata Harbour on the outgoing tides. The aquarium pioneered the walk-through acrylic tunnels that have now become commonplace, and it is still a pleasure to stand on the moving walkway and glide through two tanks, both sculpted into the gnarled rock walls: one is dominated by flowing kelp beds, colourful reef fish and twisting eels; the other with smallish sharks, all appearing alarmingly close in the crystal-clear water. Newer tanks in the Stingray Bay section feature these graceful beasts, some with a two-metre wingspan. You can scuba dive with the sharks ($149) or stingrays ($69), or just snorkel with some less dangerous fish ($69). The remaining sewage tanks form a couple of other diversions. Antarctic Encounter kicks off with some Antarctic history and an accomplished replica of the prefabricated hut used by Robert Falcon Scott and his team on their illstarred 1911–12 attempt to be the first to reach the South Pole; the original hut still stands at Scott Base, New Zealand’s Antarctic foothold. The capacious shelter has some unusual contents, including a pianola, a fully functional laboratory and a printing press – from which the South Polar Times rolled every few months throughout the three long years of the expedition. Contemporary footage and tales of their exploits add to the haunting atmosphere. Next up is a kind of penguin-atrium visited on a naff Disneyesque Snow Cat ride made bearable by the close-up views of king and gentoo penguins shooting through the water and hopping around on fake icebergs. A little further along Tamaki Drive, Hapimana Street leads up onto the grassy range of Bastion Point and the M.J. Savage Memorial Park, the nation’s austere Art Deco homage to its first Labour prime minister, who ushered in the welfare state in the late 1930s. More recently, Bastion Point was the site of a seventeen-month standoff between police and its traditional owners, the Ngati Whatua, over the subdivision of land for housing. The occupiers were removed in May 1977, but the stand galvanized the land-rights movement, and paved the way for a significant change in government attitude.Within a decade, the Waitangi Tribunal recommended that the land be returned. Bastion Point looks down on Mission Bay, the closest of the truly worthwhile city beaches, where a grassy waterside reserve is backed by an enticing row of cafés and restaurants. Swimming is best here close to high tide; at other times the water remains shallow a long way out. Similar conditions prevail at the sheltered beaches of Kohimarama and St Heliers Bay, both a short way further along Tamaki Drive, which finishes on a high note with excellent harbour views from Achilles Point.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

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115

Howick

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| The suburbs

With your own transport it’s easy enough to wind your way from St Heliers towards Howick, 15km east of central Auckland. Howick was one of four fencible settlements – along with Panmure and in the east, and Onehunga and Otahuhu in the south – set up around the young capital as a defence against disgruntled Maori and ambitious French. So-called “fencibles” (pensioned British soldiers) were re-enlisted to defend these sites for seven years, in return for free passage and a block of land. Skirmishes were few and the original shipments of men and their families formed the basis of small towns, all of which were subsequently engulfed by the Auckland conurbation.The best place to get a sense of fencible life is at the Howick Historical Village, Bells Road, Lloyd Elsmore Park (daily 10am–5pm, last admission 4pm; $13; T 09/576 9506, W www.fencible.org.nz), 10km east of downtown between Pakuranga and Howick. Over thirty buildings dating from the 1840s and 1870s have been restored and re-sited from the four fencible settlements, and arranged in a believable village setting complete with a pond, a working blacksmith’s and market gardens.Volunteers role-play the diligently researched lives of real 1850s characters as they amble between the tents and makeshift Maori-style raupo huts used on arrival, the officers’ cottages, hostelry, school hall and village shop. The colonial village is 1km off Pakuranga Road, plied by all Howick & Eastern buses, which take about fifty minutes to get here from Britomart. The suburb of Howick, a further 5km east, is a popular dwelling for East Asians, who have constructed huge, florid mansions on former farmland to the south of town which have become an attraction in their own right, mounting a challenge to Howick’s more traditional sight, the distinctive, square-turreted All Saints’ Church, the country’s oldest active “Selwyn” church (see p.114), built in 1847.

West of the city centre The suburbs of West Auckland developed later than their eastern counterparts, mainly because of their distance from the sea in the days when almost all travel was by ferry.The exceptions were the inner suburbs of Freeman’s Bay, Ponsonby and Herne Bay, now enjoying renewed desirability for their proximity to the city and an unsurpassed array of restaurants, cafés and bars. Except for the flagging Victoria Park Market, sights are scarce until you get out to Western Springs, infant Auckland’s major water source. The site is now part of MOTAT, a patchy transport and technology museum. To the south stands Alberton, once one of the city’s grandest residences, but now just a brief distraction before you hit the wineries and West Coast beaches (see p.138 & pp.138–142). Freeman’s Bay, Ponsonby and Herne Bay

116

Victoria Street climbs the ridge west of Queen Street and descends into Freeman’s Bay, a flat basin long since reclaimed from the Waitemata Harbour to accommodate early sawmilling operations. The land is now given over to the popular rugby and cricket fields of Victoria Park, all overshadowed by the 38mhigh chimney of Auckland’s defunct incinerator, occupied since 1984 by Victoria Park Market (daily 9am–6pm; W www.victoria-park-market.co.nz), a knot of stalls and restaurants. Check out the Awhina stall, full of handwoven kete (baskets) and carved pounamu (greenstone). The Link bus passes on its way to Ponsonby, and city tour buses also stop here. Early in Auckland’s European history, the areas around Ponsonby became fashionable neighbourhoods, only moving downmarket with the arrival of

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trams at the turn of the century. Inner-city living conditions deteriorated dramatically in the Depression of the 1930s, and the resulting low rents attracted large numbers of Pacific Islanders during the 1960s. Ponsonby took a bohemian turn in the Seventies and before long young professionals were moving in, restoring old houses and spending fistfuls of dollars in the cafés, restaurants and boutiques along Ponsonby Road. The street itself may not be beautiful, but the people sure are; musicians, actors and media folk congregate to lunch, schmooze and be seen in the latest fashionable haunt here. There’s good reason to brave the poseurs, though, for some of New Zealand’s classiest clothes shopping and eating. Beyond Ponsonby lies Herne Bay, which followed its neighbours’ economic ebb and flow and now ranks as Auckland’s most expensive suburb, the merchants’ water-view villas fetching astronomical prices. Western Springs and MOTAT

In the late nineteenth century the burgeoning city of Auckland, with its meagre supply of unreliable streams, was heavily reliant on the waters of Western Springs, 4km west of the city. The area is now devoted to attractive

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parkland and the Museum of Transport & Technology (MOTAT) on Great North Road (daily 10am–5pm; $14; infoline T 0800 668 286, W www.motat .org.nz), which offers a trawl through New Zealand’s vehicular and industrial past in a jumble of sheds and halls. It is worth visiting for the restored Western Springs’ pumphouse – where audiovisual displays run through the 100-year history of the original engine – and the Pioneers of New Zealand exhibit. This intriguing exhibition concentrates on the lives, personalities and achievements of two early New Zealand aviators: Richard Pearse (see p.611), the first man to achieve powered flight; and Jean Batten, an internationally recognized air ace of the 1930s. Admission includes entry to the Sir Keith Park Memorial Site (same hours), a kilometre away and linked to the main site by ancient rattling trams (every 10–20min; included in admission price). The Memorial Site is for aeroplane buffs, with the star attractions being one of the few surviving World War II Lancaster bombers and a double-decker flying boat, decked out for dining in a more gracious age and used on Air New Zealand’s South Pacific “Coral Route” until the mid-1960s. The tram between the two sites also stops at Auckland Zoo, Motions Road (daily 9.30am–5.30pm; $18; W www.aucklandzoo.co.nz), whose centrepiece is the trailblazing Pridelands development, in which lions, hippos, rhinos, giraffes, zebras and gazelles all roam across mock savannah behind enclosing moats. Elsewhere, the Sealion and Penguin Shores exhibit brings you face to face with these loveable animals. New Zealand’s wildlife is represented in the form of a nocturnal kiwi house, a group of tuatara and a large, walk-through aviary. Western Springs is on city tour bus routes and can be reached on the #048, #163, #179 and #193 buses from Britomart. Alberton

The only other diversion in the western suburbs proper is the imposing mid-Victorian mansion of Alberton, 100 Mount Albert Rd (Wed–Sun 10.30am–noon & 1–4.30pm; $7.50, $15 joint ticket with Highwic in Newmarket and Ewelme Cottage in Parnell) that began life as a farmstead built in 1863 by Allan Kerr-Taylor. This grand old house achieved its current form – replete with turrets and verandas – through a series of late-nineteenth-century additions befitting the centrepiece for an estate that once stretched over much of western Auckland.

The North Shore

118

The completion of the harbour bridge in 1959 provided the catalyst for the development of the North Shore, previously a handful of scattered communities linked by a web of ferries crisscrossing the harbour. By the early 1970s, the volume of traffic to the suburbs log-jammed the bridge – until a Japanese company attached a two-lane extension (affectionately dubbed “the Nippon Clip-ons”) to each side. The bridge and its additional lanes can now be seen at close quarters on the Auckland Bridge Climb (see p.124). The vast urban sprawl marches inexorably towards the Hibiscus Coast (see p.143), with most interest to be found in the maritime village of Devonport and the adjacent cove of Cheltenham, at the southern end of a long string of calm swimming beaches. Further north, try the more open and busier Takapuna, a short stroll from dozens of good cafés and reached by a host of buses mostly in the #800s and #900s, and Long Bay (buses #839, #858, #886 and others), with a grassy reserve and BBQ areas. All, to some degree, suffer

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from the Auckland curse of being shallow at low tide, but beaches tend to be well attended throughout the summer. Devonport

Devonport is one of Auckland’s oldest suburbs, founded in 1840 and still linked to the city by a ten-minute ferry journey. The naval station was an early tenant, soon followed by wealthy merchants, who built fine kauri villas. Some of these are graced with little turrets (“widows’ watches”) that served as lookouts where the traders could scan the seas for their precious cargoes and wives watch hopefully for their returning husbands. Wandering along the peaceful streets and the tree-fringed waterfront past grand houses is the essence of Devonport’s appeal and there’s no shortage of tempting bookshops, small galleries, cafés and restaurants along the main street to punctuate your amblings. Call at the i-SITE visitor centre, 3 Victoria Rd (daily 8.30am–5pm; T 09/446 0677, W www.tourismnorthshore.org.nz), to pick up the Old Devonport Walk leaflet, or a map (both free). Unless you have a soft spot for lifeless collections of uniforms and guns, you can blithely skip the Navy Museum, Spring Street (daily 10am–4.30pm; donation), in favour of a stiff walk up one of the two ancient volcanoes that back Devonport. The closest, about fifteen minutes’ walk away, is Mount Victoria (Taka-a-ranga; unrestricted access for pedestrians; closed to vehicles from dusk on Thurs, Fri & Sat), from where you get fabulous gulf views. The hill was once the site of a Maori pa and fortified village and the remains of terraces and kumara pits can still be detected on the northern and eastern slopes. A kilometre east, the grass- and flax-covered volcanic plug of North Head (Maungauika; daily 6am–10pm, vehicles 6am–8pm; free) guards the entrance to the inner harbour, a strategic site for Maori before it was co-opted to form part of the young nation’s coastal defences. In the wake of the “Russian Scares” of 1884–86, which were precipitated by the opening of the port of Vladivostok, North Head became Fort Cautley. It is now operated by

119

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

DOC as the North Head Historic Reserve and you can amble around the peripheral remains – pillboxes, concrete tunnels linking gun emplacements and even a restored eight-inch “disappearing gun”, which recoiled underground for easy reloading. North Head is part of the North Shore City Coastal Walk (free leaflet from the visitor centre). This 23-kilometre combination of clifftop and street walking starts by the Devonport ferry wharf and runs all the way north to Torbay. It forms part of the fledgling Te Araroa walkway from Cape Reinga to Bluff (see p.59).

South of the city centre

| The suburbs

Southern Auckland, arching around the eastern end of Manukau Harbour, is neglected by most visitors, though the airport at Mangere is where most arrive. There are no unmissable attractions but the city’s most lofty volcano, Mount Eden, offers superb views, and its near-identical twin, One Tree Hill, has some of the best surviving examples of the terracing undertaken by early Maori inhabitants. Further south, Auckland’s Polynesian community plies its wares early each Saturday morning at the Otara Market. Mount Eden and One Tree Hill

At 196m, Mount Eden (Maungawhau) is Auckland city’s highest volcano and is named for George Eden, the first Earl of Auckland. The extensive views from the summit car park, just 2km south of the city, make it extraordinarily popular with tour buses, which grind up the steep slope through the day and well into the evening. There’s a more rewarding area 5km to the southeast around One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie; 183m), one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks, topped by a 33m-tall granite obelisk. For a century, until just before the arrival of Europeans, Maungakiekie (“mountain of the kiekie plant”) was one of the largest pa sites in the country; an estimated 4000 people were drawn here by the proximity to abundant seafood from both harbours and the rich soils of the volcanic cone, which still bears the scars of extensive earthworks including the remains of dwellings and kumara pits. The site was abandoned and then bought by the Scottish medic and “father of Auckland”, Sir John Logan Campbell, one of only two European residents when the city was granted capital status in 1840. Through widespread land purchases and the founding of numerous shipping, banking and insurance companies, Campbell prospered, eventually becoming mayor in time for the visit of Britain’s Duke and Duchess of Cornwall, in 1901. To commemorate the event, he donated his One Tree Hill estate to the people of New Zealand and named it Cornwall Park (daily 7am–dusk; free).The park puts on its best display around Christmas time, when avenues of pohutukawa trees erupt in a riot of red blossom. Campbell is buried at the summit, next to the obelisk, which bears inscriptions in Maori and English lauding Maori– Pakeha friendship. The summit is known in Maori as Te Totara-i-ahua, a reference to the single totara that originally gave One Tree Hill its name. Early

Devonport ferry

120

Devonport is best reached on the Devonport ferry (Mon–Thurs 6.10am–11.30pm, Fri & Sat 6.15am–1am, Sun 7.15am–10pm; every 30min; $10 return, bikes free), which forms part of the Getabout Auckland Discovery Pass (see p.98).

AUCKL AND AND AROUND terracing on One Tree Hill

settlers cut it down in 1852, and Campbell planted several pines as a windbreak, a single specimen surviving until the millennium. Already ailing from a 1994 chainsaw attack by a Maori activist avenging the loss of the totara, the pine’s fate was sealed by a similar attack in 1999 and the tree was removed the next year. Free leaflets outlining a trail around the archeological and volcanic sites of the hill are available from the visitor centre (daily 10am–4pm), which is housed in Huia Lodge, originally built on the northern slopes by Campbell as a gatekeeper’s house and now containing displays on the park and the man. Immediately opposite is Acacia Cottage (daily dawn–dusk; free), Campbell’s original home and the city’s oldest surviving building, built in 1841 and re-sited from central Auckland in the 1920s. Campbell devotees can round off their homage with a visit to the magisterial statue of him in mayoral garb at the northern end of the park by Manukau Road. Fans of astronomy are better served on the southern side of One Tree Hill at the Stardome Observatory, just off Manukau Road, where a frequently changing schedule of 45-minute multimedia programmes are played out on the ceiling of the planetarium (Wed–Sun 8pm & 9pm, earlier in winter; $14; T 09/624 1246, W www.stardome.org.nz).Weather and darkness permitting, the shows are followed by thirty minutes of telescope viewing. Most of Cornwall Park is closed after dark but the observatory and the summit are accessible from the southern entrance off Manukau Road, which can be reached on buses #52, #68, #328, #347 and #472 from Britomart.

| The suburbs

Kumara-pit

South Auckland

Beyond Cornwall Park is South Auckland, the city’s poorest sector and the less-than-flatteringly-depicted gangland setting of Lee Tamahori’s film Once Were Warriors. There isn’t a great deal to see here, but neither is it a no-go zone, and Otara Market is certainly worth a look. Each Saturday morning, stalls sprawl across the car park of the Otara Town Centre. Plausibly billed as the largest Maori and Polynesian market in the world, its authenticity has been diluted by an influx of market traders flogging cheap clothes and shoddy trinkets. The tat is alleviated by displays of island-style floral print fabrics,

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reasonably priced Maori carvings and truckloads of cheap fruit and veg. Your best bet is the food: there are stalls where you can buy home-made cakes and Maori bread, and a van has been ingeniously kitted out to produce an ersatz hangi. The market gets going around 6am and runs through to noon, so get there early. Take the Otara exit off the southern motorway or catch bus #487 or #497 for the fifty-minute journey from Britomart.

Walks, cruises and adventure activities Few visitors linger long in Auckland, most being content to make travel arrangements then head out to the “real” New Zealand, but the city does boast a few adventure activities. There are diverting ways to get out in the harbour, including sailing an America’s Cup yacht or dolphin and whale safaris, and two of Auckland’s largest structures provide the framework for adrenalin thrills like the Auckland Bridge bungy jump and the Skyjump. In addition, there are sightseeing tours to the city’s West Coast beaches and gannet colony (see p.137) and wine tours to the wineries of Kumeu and Huapai (see p.138).

Walks

122

The most ambitious walking normally attempted by visitors to Auckland is a stroll through The Domain or a short hike up to one of the volcano-top viewpoints. The best of these have been threaded together as the well-marked Coast to Coast Walkway, a four-hour, thirteen-kilometre route straddling the isthmus from the Ferry Building on the Waitemata Harbour to Onehunga on the Manukau Harbour. By devoting a full day to the enterprise you can take in much of the best Auckland has to offer, including excellent harbour views from The Domain and the summits of Mount Eden and One Tree Hill, the Auckland Museum, Albert Park and numerous sites pivotal to the development of the city. All is revealed in the free “Coast to Coast Walkway” leaflet available from the tourist offices. At its northern end, the walkway links (by means of the Devonport Ferry) with the 23km North Shore City Coastal Walk (see p.120).

More ambitious hikers can head to Rangitoto Island (see p.146) or out into the hills, west to the Waitakere Ranges (see p.138).

Cruises, kayaking and dolphin safaris

Cruises and sailing

Auckland’s volcanic cones Auckland is built on around ﬁfty small volcanoes, yet the city hasn’t been very respectful of its geological heritage. Even the exact number seems in doubt, not least because several cones have disappeared over the last 150 years, mostly chewed away by scoria and basalt quarrying. That might sound a Herculean feat, but Auckland’s largest volcano, Rangitoto Island out in the Hauraki Gulf (see p.146), is only 260m tall, and in the city itself none are taller than Mount Eden, just under 200 metres. Many are pimples barely 100m high that only just poke above the surrounding housing. Early on, Maori recognized the fertility of the volcanic soils, and set up kumara gardens on the lower slopes, usually protected by fortiﬁed pa sites around the summit. Europeans valued the elevated positions for water storage – most of the main volcanoes have reservoirs in the craters. It is only in the last few decades that volcanic features have been protected from development, often by turning their environs into parks. City ordnances dictate that some summits can’t be obscured from certain angles, and yet protection is limited. Debate raged for months recently when the edge of one volcano was marked for removal to make way for a motorway extension. Some see UNESCO World Heritage status as the best means of protection, but it is unlikely anything will happen soon. In the meantime, the volcanoes make wonderful viewpoints dotted all over the city, notably from Mount Eden and One Tree Hill (see p.120) and from the top of Rangitoto Island (see p.146) where you can also explore lava caves. Though it is over 600 years since the last eruption, the volcanic ﬁeld remains active. No one knows when the next eruption will be, but it is unlikely to be through one of the existing volcanoes – meaning one day a new peak will emerge.

| Walks, cruises and adventure activities

As well as their ferry services, Fullers offer a two-hour Harbour Cruise (daily 10.30am & 1.30pm; $30) that tours Viaduct Harbour and coasts past Devonport and the Harbour Bridge. Similar ground is covered when you crew on America’s Cup racing yachts NZL 40 or NZL 41 (T 0800/724 569, W www .sailnewzealand.co.nz; $140 for a two-hour sail or $195 as part of a team in a race between the two boats). Built for New Zealand’s 1995 challenge in San Diego they are now based quayside at the Viaduct Harbour, and give a real sense of power and speed. The same company also offers an alternative way to get to the Bay of Islands: cruises on Peter Blake’s old Whitbread Cup round-the-world yacht, Lion, run from Auckland to the Bay of Islands (Nov–May; 2 days & 2 nights one way; $595) with two departures weekly. Romantics might prefer a gentler trip under sail with Pride of Auckland (T 09/373 4557, W www.prideofauckland.com), based at the Maritime Museum and running a variety of cruises with coffee or a meal served on board: try the Coffee Cruise

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Auckland is so water-focused that it would be a shame not to get out on the harbour at some point. The easiest and cheapest way is to hop on one of the ferries to Devonport (see p.120) or one of the outlying islands (see “Islands of the Hauraki Gulf ” from p.146), but for prolonged forays, consider one of the many cruises available, while a dolphin and whale safari or sea-kayaking trip offers a more intimate experience.

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AUCKL AND AND AROUND

(3.45pm; 1hr 30min; $58), the Lunch Cruise (1pm; 1hr 30min; $68) or the Dinner Cruise (7pm; 2hr 30min; $95). All trips include entry to the Maritime Museum. On most summer weekends you can help sail the Søren Larsen (Dec–Feb Sun 10am–3pm; $97 including lunch; T 0800/707 265, W www.sorenlarsen .co.nz), a Danish Baltic trader built of oak in 1949 and later fitted with a nineteenth-century sailing rig. This majestic vessel starred in the 1970s TV series The Onedin Line and led the First Fleet re-enactment that formed a part of the Australian bicentennial celebrations in 1987. Passengers are free to participate – steering, hauling sheets and climbing the rigging – though maritime instruction tends to be a larger component of the midweek trips to Hauraki Gulf and Bay of Islands (5 nights; $1400). Dolphin swimming and kayaking

| Walks, cruises and adventure activities

The Hauraki Gulf is excellent territory for spotting marine mammals, best seen on five-hour dolphin-and whale-watching trips run by Dolphin & Whale Safari ($140; T 0800/383 940, W www.dolphinsafari.co.nz) from Viaduct Harbour. Educational and entertaining trips head out daily (11am & 4pm, weather permitting) on a 20m catamaran and dolphins are spotted ninety percent of the time (you get a fifty percent discount on a second trip if none are seen), although strict controls restrict contact and passengers only occasionally get to swim with them. Bryde’s whales and orcas are also frequently seen. For the same price you can do much the same trip with DolphinPlanet on Dreamweaver (T 0800/220 111, W www.dolphinplanet.co.nz), an 18m catamaran. For kayaking head to Fergs Kayaks, 12 Tamaki Drive, Okahu Bay (T 09/529 2230, W www.fergskayaks.co.nz), who run guided trips 7km across the Waitemata Harbour to Rangitoto Island (9.30am & 5.30pm; 6hr; $120) hiking to the summit, then paddling back. They also do trips 3km to Devonport with a hike up North Head (9.30am & 5.30pm; 4hr; $95). In both cases, the later departure gives you a chance to paddle by moon or torchlight. If you’d rather go it alone, Fergs offer kayak rental in either single sea kayaks ($20 1hr, $35 a half-day) or doubles ($40 1hr, $70 a half-day).

Adventure activities Auckland has long tried to catch up with the rest of New Zealand by offering adventurous pursuits but walking to the top of the Harbour Bridge or jumping off the Skytower don’t really match up, thankfully canyoning in the Waitakere Ranges does. However, if gentler activities call to you, try rollerblading along Tamaki Drive (shared with bikes and pedestrians) with good harbour views; in-line skates can be rented from Fergs Kayaks (see above) for $15 an hour. For something a little out of the ordinary, consider a trip with Potiki Adventures (T 0800/692 3836, W www.potikiadventures.com), run by a couple of Maori women who are passionate about the great outdoors and bring a Maori worldview to their Auckland-based full-day trips ($145 each). Snorkelling and kayaking at Goat Island (see p.172) are the objectives for their Marine Reserve Adventure (Mon, Wed & Fri, $185); the Urban Maori Experience (Tues & Sat, includes morning and afternoon tea) visits One Tree Hill, the Waitakere Ranges and Whatipu beach and gives you a change to learn flax weaving; and there’s also the option of abseiling a waterfall (Thurs & Sun) on a trip that visits the gannets at Muriwai and a Maori tattoo studio.

124

Auckland Bridge Climb and Bungy

Based on the Sydney Harbour bridge climb, the Auckland Bridge Climb ($100, $80 for the abbreviated climb; T 09/625 0445, W www.ajhackett.com),

Skyjump and Vertigo Climb

| Eating

Auckland’s 328-metre Skytower is the venue for two adventure activities, both exploiting its position as New Zealand’s tallest building. On the Skyjump (daily 10am–6pm, and as late as 10pm on busy summer evenings; $195; booking recommended on T 0800/759 586, W www.skyjump.co.nz) – claimed as the world’s highest tower-based jump – you plummet 192m towards the ground in a kind of arrested freefall at 75kph, with a cable attached to your back. Alternatively, go for the more drawn-out sense of dread engendered by the Skywalk ($115, weather dependent W www.skywalk.co.nz), a nervous stroll round a 1.2m- wide walkway, 192m above the pavement. Although you are attached by safety line to a rail several feet above your head, there are no handrails and so confidence in your sense of balance suddenly becomes very important, for 75 minutes (total time including harness fitting and safety briefing). Two groups of six people can be on the walkway at any one time enjoying, the stupendous views.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

gives you the opportunity to sample excellent city views from the highest point on the city’s harbour, crossing some 65 metres above the Waitemata Harbour. The ninety-minute trip doesn’t actually involve climbing, just strolling along steel walkways under the roadway then emerging onto the upper girders by means of ordinary stairs, while clipped by safety harness to a cable. Guides relate detail on the bridge’s fulcrums, pivots and cantilevers. Reservations are essential and anyone over seven can go. Cameras are not allowed but there’ll be someone on hand to take a snap and sell it to you later. If you crave an adrenalin rush, the Auckland Bridge Bungy (same contact details) should do the trick, with a 40m leap out over the water that will set you back $100 and includes a T-shirt.

Canyoning

About the most fun you can have in a wetsuit, particularly around Auckland, is canyoning, a combination of swimming, abseiling, jumping into deep pools and sliding down rock chutes. Two companies operate in the Waitakere Ranges, both making pick-ups in Auckland. Canyonz (T 0800/422 696, W www .canyonz.co.nz) operates in Blue Canyon and offers a great variety of activities including an 8m waterfall-jump or abseil (standard full-day trip $175, 7hr). Awol Adventures (T 0800/462 965, W www.awoladventures.co.nz) runs a similar trip near Piha, with more emphasis on abseiling. Join the day-trip ($155), half-day trip ($125) or go night canyoning ($145) with just a headtorch and glowworms for illumination. Both companies’ trips often end up with a visit to one of the West Coast surf beaches. Canyonz also offers day-trips down the magnificent Sleeping God canyon near Thames (Oct–May only; $235). In this wonderfully scenic spot you descend 300m in a series of twelve drops using slides, and abseils as long as 70m (some through the waterfall), with the opportunity to leap 13m from a rock ledge into a deep pool. It’s tough enough to require previous abseiling experience.

Eating Aucklanders take their eating seriously and there is no shortage of restaurants. For a more casual experience, cafés or pubs (see p.131), offer decent meals for under $20. On a fine summer evening it is tempting to flock to the waterside

125

restaurants and bars of Viaduct Harbour, though it can be pricey and those on a budget will do better up on Karangahape Road. Dedicated foodies will find the best areas for grazing in the inner-city suburbs, chiefly along Ponsonby Road, Auckland’s culinary crucible, or Parnell Road, the other main eat street. AUCKL AND AND AROUND

City centre and Viaduct Harbour

| Eating

The centre of Auckland is the best place to grab something quick during the day, with dozens of places geared to lunching city workers. Among the most popular are the food halls, seating plazas surrounded by inexpensive vendors, often in the basements of shopping arcades that spur off Queen Street. Downtown’s eating scene is spiced with an increasing number of Asian restaurants, although in the evening parts of the city feel dead. High Street and Lorne Street are both good hunting grounds, but nowhere are the restaurants so densely packed as around the Viaduct Harbour – where good quality food is readily available but the venues lack soul and zealously embrace ostentation for its own sake, charging above the city average. Food halls and takeaways Atrium Food Gallery Elliot St. Slightly more salubrious than the competition, with a wide range of counters – Vietnamese, sushi, bagels, pizza, kebabs, roasts, Chinese – plus a bakery and decent coffee. Mon–Thurs 7am–6pm, Fri 7am–8pm, Sat–Sun 9am–5pm. Food Alley 9 Albert St. Spartan, inexpensive twolevel food hall with 13 kitchens exhibiting a strong East Asian bias. Open daily 10.30am–10pm. Force Entertainment Food Hall In the basement of the 12-screen multiplex cinema, Queen St. This large food hall provides everything from pizza to Japanese for the hungry impatient cheapskate. Open daily 10am–10pm.

Cafés and restaurants

126

Euro Princes Wharf T 09/309 9866. This popular, trendy place offers very high-quality food and service. Their signature dish of rotisserie chicken on a bed of mashed potato and peanut slaw ($32) is excellent. French Café 210 Symonds St T 09/302 2770. Consistently one of the ﬁnest restaurants in the city. The ever-changing seasonal menu leans towards contemporary European cuisine and the service is faultless. Six courses $90, add another $60 for matching wines. Dinner Tues–Sat plus Fri lunch. Grand Harbour 18–28 Customs St West T 09/357 6889. More opulent than most of the city’s Chinese places and heavily patronized by the Chinese community, this bustling modern restaurant is popular for business lunches and serves great yum cha.

The Grove St Patrick’s Square, Wyndham St T09/368 4129, Wwww.thegroverestaurant.co.nz. Tucked away off a quiet square in the city centre, this sophisticated place turns out some of the best modern New Zealand cuisine in Auckland. Mains cost $35 upwards and there are both omnivore ($100) and vegetarian ($80) tasting menus. Wine pairings are $80 extra. Closed Sat lunch and Sun. Harbourside Seafood Bar & Grill Upstairs in the Ferry Building, 99 Quay St T09/307 0556. Classy but relaxed seafood restaurant. If it’s warm, reserve a table on the harbour-view terrace and feast on beautifully prepared and presented ﬁsh and crustaceans. Expect to part with at least $75 for a full meal, not including drinks. Merlot 23 O’Connell St T09/309 5456. Intimate, unpretentious candlelit restaurant with something of the feel of a French bistro. Mains from $26 and a selection of over a hundred wines. Mezze Bar 1a Little High St T 09/307 2029. Airy café offering respite from the buzz of Queen St. Great for tapas and meze ($9–20), with broadly Mediterranean and Middle Eastern leanings. Open for lunch and dinner with dishes such as Spanish tortilla and grilled mushroom on polenta or Moroccan meat bake ($25–30), washed down with a broad selection of beers and wines. Middle East Café 23a Wellesley St, west. Tiny, simple, camel-themed eat-in or takeout unlicensed café that’s an Auckland institution, deservedly celebrated for its chawarma and falafel ($7–10), both cloaked in creamy garlic, spicy tomato sauce or hot chilli sauce. Closed Sat lunch, & Sun. New Gallery Café 18–26 Wellesley St, inside the New Gallery T09/302 0226. Excellent daytime

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127

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Eating

oasis, with a comfortable terrace for peoplewatching and a coffee and cake. At lunch (until 2.30pm), you can get something more substantial like a tasty risotto, ﬁsh cakes or tandoori lamb. Closed Sun. The Occidental 8 Vulcan Lane. Belgian bar serving bargain pots of mussels ($18) dressed with lobster bisque and brandy, mustard and cream, or coconut cream and lemongrass. Every item on the menu comes with a suggested libation and the beerpouring is conducted with ritualistic zeal. Raw Power 10 Vulcan Lane. Great little upstairs café famous for its fresh juices and smoothies. Also worthwhile for salads, tofu burgers, falafel, curried corn fritters and the like ($9–15) until 4pm. Closed Sun. Tanuki 319b Queen St T09/379 5353. Excellent yakitori and sake bar in a cave-like basement setting, with a more formal restaurant above. You can tuck into various delicacies – from grilled

cloves of garlic to teriyaki chicken, all washed down with sake or Japanese beer. Tony’s 32 Lorne St & 27 Wellesley St West T09/373 2138. Steak restaurants, rightly famous for well-presented, good-quality food ($25– 35). The second, 27 Wellesley St address is the original. Lunchtime menus are cheaper and you should book ahead. Waterfront 161–173 Quay St. Big, stylish café that is unusually good value. Serves generous portions of a wide range of cuisines with a prime waterfront seating. Wildﬁre Princes Wharf T09/353 7595. Flashy, popular Brazilian barbecue restaurant with some tables overlooking the water. Primarily here for the churrascaria (lunch $34, dinner $46), assorted tapas-style appetizers followed by a vast selection of meats and seafood marinated in herbs and roasted over manuka coals. Carved off skewers at the table.

Karangahape Road and around Despite continued developer pressure at its eastern end, Karangahape Road still feels more relaxed than the city centre, with laid-back cafés and an abundance of low-cost ethnic restaurants. Alleluya Bar and Café St Kevin’s Arcade, 179 K’ Rd T09/377 8482. You’ll ﬁnd some of the best city views plus good, reasonably priced food and a no-nonsense attitude at this spot hidden in a pretty 1920s arcade, great for kicking back. Open daily for breakfast at 9am, and licensed. Kamo 382 K’ Rd T 09/377 2313. Stripped-down, rowdy bar/restaurant serving Asian-inﬂuenced dishes alongside Mediterranean favourites that gets younger and rowdier as the night wears on. Gay-friendly. Rasoi 211 K’ Rd. It feels almost like you’re in South India in this budget vegetarian café dishing up dosas, uttappams and thalis for $9–17 and there’s an all-you-can-eat maharajah thali for $17. Great Indian sweets too. Revels 146 K’ Rd. Funky breakfast café offering tasty coffee, salads, wraps and cakes, alongside

generous carnivore and vegetarian breakfasts, open daily. Satya 271 K’ Rd. This excellent South Indian place steps outside the usual range of curries with the likes of murg badami with almonds and marinated chicken ($18). Licensed & BYO. Closed Sun lunch. Sri Pinang 356 K’ Rd T09/358 3886. Simple Malaysian restaurant. Start with half a dozen satay chicken skewers and follow with perhaps sambal okra, beef rendang or clay-pot chicken rice scooped up with excellent roti. BYO only but you can buy wine and beer from the shop across the road. Closed Mon & Sat lunch, and all day Sun. Verona 169 K’ Rd. Longstanding muso hangout and general place-to-be-seen. Sip good coffee and tuck into low-cost quiches, salads and pasta dishes in the comfy booths.

Parnell Parnell’s eating places split into two camps: established restaurants with the accent on fine dining, and trendier, cheaper cafés catering to younger devotees and backpackers. See map on p.113.

128

Chocolate Boutique 323 Parnell Rd. Compact chocolate emporium selling handmade choccies and a range of chocolate (and coffee) drinks. Tables inside and out. Stays open until 10pm for that postdinner dessert.

Cibo 91 St George’s Bay Rd T09/303 9660. Fine dining a little off the main drag, and worth seeking out. Reliable favourites such as steak and duck leg are available but there’s always something unexpected on the menu. Popular for business

Non Solo Pizza 259 Parnell Rd T09/379 5358. Choose the big airy room or more intimate patio for classy, but not too expensive Italian cuisine. The name means “Not just Pizza”, but that is the specialty, done in crispy style with imaginative but classic Italian toppings. Portoﬁno 156 Parnell Rd T09/373 3740. Basic but reliable trattoria without the pretensions of much of this street, serving pasta and pizza around $20. Strawberry Alarm Clock 119 Parnell Rd. Lowkey café popular for inexpensive breakfasts, a snack or just hanging out over good coffee either inside or out in the rear courtyard.

There’s plenty of good eating in Newmarket but unless you are staying nearby or have come here to shop it’s a bit of a stretch from the centre. Asian Food Hall Newmarket Plaza, Teed St, next to the ﬁsh market. Malaysian, Thai, Japanese, Korean and a couple of Chinese dishes all served up at bargain prices. Bodrum 2 Osborne St. Boisterous Turkish restaurant, evenings only, serving chicken moussaka ($24), kebab plates ($26.50) and the obligatory baklava and locum for dessert. Low tables and cushions available for those who can sit crosslegged for an hour. Closed Mon. Mecca 61 Davis Crescent. Relaxed café with speedy service dishing up excellent blueberry pancakes with fresh fruit ($11) and well-presented

breakfast and lunch dishes including Thai chicken curry ($15). Sun World 2 York St. Bustling, budget Chinese place popular with Asian English-language students. There’s little attempt to appease delicate Western palates but everything is fresh and promptly served. Zarbo 24 Morrow St. Auckland’s ﬁnest deli/ café with a fabulous range of products from around the world put to good use in a delicious range of breakfast and lunch dishes ($9–20). Lunch ﬁnishes at 3pm but they stay open until 5pm for salads, cakes and coffee.

| Eating

Newmarket

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

lunches so probably best left for evening visits. Mains $35–38. Di Mare Shop 9, 251 Parnell Rd T09/300 3260. One of the best surf and turf restaurants in the city, serving delicious traditional and innovative dishes to an appreciative crowd, in an intimate, back alley courtyard restaurant off the main road. Well worth making the effort to ﬁnd, particularly for the modern take on paella ($30 on request). Java Room 317 Parnell Rd T 09/366 1606. Intimate dinner-only restaurant serving loosely Indonesian-inﬂuenced dishes but also dim sum, spicy ﬁsh cakes, hot ruby prawns ($23) and Siamese snapper ($23).

Tamaki Drive: Okahu Bay and Mission Bay If you find yourself peckish while visiting Kelly Tarlton’s, rollerblading along Tamaki Drive, kayaking or out for a swim at Mission Bay, try one of this selection from a long line round the bay. Bar Comida 81 Tamaki Drive. Quality version of the typical Kiwi cover-all-the-bases café/restaurant/bar with wood-ﬁred gourmet pizza, great coffee and desserts and a strong line in tapas and Persian ﬂatbreads, applied to anything from BLT to grilled vegetables with hummus. Hammerheads 19 Tamaki Drive, Okahu Bay, by Kelly Tarlton’s T09/521 4400. The perfect spot for a

upmarket lunch on a sunny day, preceded by a cocktail while you admire the tremendous views over the water to the city skyline. Mains mostly under $37. Tonino’s Pizzeria 35 Tamaki Drive T 09/528 8935, W www.toninos.co.nz. Small good-value Italian restaurant with tasty pasta dishes ($15–20) and pizza ($18–32) to dine in and take away. Licensed & BYO.

Ponsonby and Herne Bay At the cutting edge of Auckland’s foodie scene, Ponsonby Road is a street where devotion to style is as important as culinary prowess. But don’t be intimidated; the food is mostly excellent and competition keeps prices reasonable. Popular daytime cafés frequently ease into more rambunctious drinking later on. See map on p.117.

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| Eating

Bonita Tapas Bar 242 Ponsonby Rd. Atmospheric little bar serving delicious tapas plates from $10– 15 – try the tiny ﬂavour-packed meatballs. Closed Sun & Mon. Café Cézanne 296 Ponsonby Rd. This casual, ramshackle place is a welcome retreat from the glitz of the rest of Ponsonby Rd; great for reading the papers over hearty breakfasts, excellent quiches or huge wedges of cake. Dizengoff 256 Ponsonby Rd T 09/360 0108. Unlicensed breakfast and lunch café specializing in wonderful bagels, some Jewish deli favourites and luscious chargrilled vegetables, all at reasonable prices. Fatimas 240 Ponsonby Rd T 09/376 9303. If you fancy home-made, Middle Eastern food then look no further than this friendly wee café/bar where nothing costs more than $15. Fusion 32 Jervois Rd. Friendly, relaxed daytime café with tables inside and in the small garden out the back. A good range of breakfasts all day, plus light lunches, great coffee and tasty fruit lassi drinks. Il Forno 55 MacKelvie St. Great daytime bakery and café, especially notable for its delectable made-on-the-premises cakes, pastries and coffee, but also doing ﬁne sandwiches and rolls. Leonardo’s 263 Ponsonby Rd T 09/361 1556. About as authentic an Italian restaurant as you’ll

ﬁnd in Auckland. No pizza, but a great antipasto plate ($31), pasta and gnocchi dishes (around $25–30), and segundi piatti ($30–35) such as ﬁsh in a paper parcel with garlic. Weekend lunches & dinner nightly except Mon, and Wed is live opera night. One2One 121 Ponsonby Rd. Relaxed longstanding café where the ﬂufﬁes (cappuccino foam), and a sandpit in the grapevine-shaded courtyard make it a great place for those with kids. Good coffee, plus excellent mufﬁns and a blackboard full of macrobiotic and organic food. Ponsonby Fresh Fish and Chip Co 127 Ponsonby Rd T09/378 7885. One of the best ﬁsh, chips and burger takeaways around, frequently lauded in Metro magazine’s annual readers’ poll and always busy, so call ahead or trot across the road to the SPQR bar and wait. The vegetarian burgers are sensational. Unlicensed. Santos 114 Ponsonby Rd. Hip little café serving some of the best coffee on Ponsonby Rd and tasty panini. SPQR 150 Ponsonby Rd T 09/360 1710. Dimly lit and eternally groovy restaurant/bar that’s always popular for its quality Italian-inﬂuenced food (especially the pizzas). Many treat it more as a bar and venue for spotting actors and rock stars. Excellent cocktails and a wide range of wines (sold by the glass).

130 Dining

alfresco at SPQR, Ponsonby Road

Devonport Devonport has variety but few venues that live up to Auckland’s better foodie hangouts. See map on p.119.

Drinking, nightlife and entertainment With a million plus people to entertain, there’s always something going on in Auckland. The best way to find out what’s on is to pick up the New Zealand Herald, the Vulture, an Auckland guide to music, art, theatre and film or the free Groove Guide, a music and clubbers listing and review. For more specialist gig information, buy the monthly Real Groove ($7.90), available from most record store and magazine shops or go to the entertainment guide section of the bFM radio station website W www.95bfm.co.nz. At any time you should be able to find some quality local bands bashing away in a club or dedicated venue but due to New Zealand’s remoteness, acts from North America or Europe are less frequent visitors. Auckland’s arts scene is thriving, and on any night of the week there should be a choice of a couple of plays, comedy and dance or opera.

| Drinking, nightlife and entertainment

good at any time of the day for light snacks and salads or just for coffee and cake. Monsoon 71 Victoria Rd T09/445 4263. Valuefor-money Thai/Malaysian place with tasty dishes such as ﬁsh and tiger prawns in a red curry sauce for around $18–23. Evenings only, from 5pm. BYO & licensed. The Stone Oven 5 Clarence St. Large, bustling bakery and café with a solid reputation for organic sourdough, cakes and pastries to take away or eat in; also popular for all-day breakfasts (starting at 6.30am), light lunches, quiches, pies and stuffed panini.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Catch 22 Fish Shop 19 Victoria Rd. On a nice evening it’s hard to beat ﬁsh and chips or a straightforward burger on the beach. Pick some up at Catch 22 and wander over. Closed Mon. Ice It Café 29 Church St T09/446 3333. On a suburban street away from the bustle of Victoria Rd, this delightful daytime café has outside tables shaded by a nice tree. Delicate lemon syrup cakes go down well with coffee, and they apply equal attention to their lunches. Manuka 49 Victoria Rd T 09/445 7732. Quality restaurant specializing in pasta, wood-ﬁred pizza ($21–28) and a few steak and chicken dishes, but

Pubs and bars In Auckland, as in much of the rest of the country, the distinction between eating and drinking places is frequently blurred. The factor uniting those listed is their dedication to drinking: some are bars that may serve food; others are old-time hotels in the Kiwi tradition, though even these have been dramatically smartened up and do a sideline in inexpensive counter meals. Drinking hours are relaxed, with most places staying open until 1–2am at weekends. Viaduct Harbour, city centre and K’ Road See map on p.127. The Blue Stone Room 9 Durham Lane T 09/302 0930. Wood-ﬂoored, stone-walled former store from the 1850s right in the heart of the city. Monteith’s real-ale-style beers predominate, there are pub-style meals and covers bands play at weekends.

Crow Bar 26 Wyndham St. Stylish cocktail bar whose upstairs Trophy Room provides a variation on the general theme of funky piped music and sophisticated chatter. Degree 204 Quay St. Typical harbour-basin venue with a long bar and high chairs that serves good seafood and rewards the late-stayers with afterdinner DJing guaranteed to bring on crushed toes or indigestion.

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Gay and lesbian Auckland

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| Drinking, nightlife and entertainment 132

New Zealand has a fairly small but progressive and proactive gay culture, and Auckland and Wellington vie to be at its centre. Auckland hosts the annual Hero Festival (Wwww.hero.org.nz), held over three weeks in the middle of February, which includes a tour around gay gardens, a tennis tournament, a lesbian tea party and a “big gay out” afternoon festival. It culminates in the Hero Party , a major dance event (and after-party) usually held around K’ Road. The best way to link into the scene is to pick up the free, fortnightly Express magazine (Wwww.gayexpress.co.nz), found in racks in gay-friendly shops, cafés and bars, at branches of Maggazzino and at the Out! Bookshop, 37 Anzac Ave (T09/377 7770). Alternatively get a copy of the free GayNZ leaﬂet and New Zealand venue guide. For counselling and support, contact the Gay and lesbian helpline (T09/303 3584; Mon–Fri 10am–10pm, Sat & Sun 5–10pm; Wwww.gayline.org.nz). The gay scene is fairly low-key, woven into the café/bar mainstream of Ponsonby, Parnell and Newmarket, and the western end of K’ Road, where strip clubs mingle freely with gay bars and cruise clubs. Among the restaurants and bars, SPQR on Ponsonby Road is always a good starting point, as is Kamo on K’ Road. For speciﬁcally gay bars and clubs try: Dorothy’s Sister 265 Ponsonby Rd. Great café and focal point for the scene at the far end of Ponsonby Rd. Family Bar 270 K’ Road. The focal point of K’ Road’s gay scene, operating as a café and bar during the day and getting more raucous into the evening. Expect karaoke on Wednesday and drag shows at weekends when basement club GAY comes alive.

Elbow Room 12 Durham St East. Fashionable little bar that is often quiet midweek but bouncy at the weekends, with live music. Globe 229 Queen St, under base Auckland Central (see p.103). Long, thin, noisy backpackers-getdrunk bar that’s full most nights of the week. The Loaded Hog Viaduct Harbour. Vast, bustling, glass-walled bar with America’s Cup paraphernalia around the walls. There’s seating on the quay, bar food, an impressive range of wines and four microbrewed beers. Turns clubby late on Fri & Sat nights. Minus5 Princes Wharf T 09/377 6702, Wwww .minus5experience.com. Stand in a room entirely sculpted from ice supping cocktails from a chunky ice “glass”. The $30 cover charge gets you half an hour, a cocktail and coat. O’Hagan’s 101–103 Customs St West. Irishthemed pub spilling out onto the Market Square at the Viaduct Harbour. Guinness, Kilkenny and English ales on tap, a good range of meals for around $25 and occasional live bands. Rakino’s 1st ﬂoor, 35 High St. Daytime café with tables shaped like Hauraki Gulf islands. On Thurs, Fri & Sat evenings it transforms into a compact venue serving up anything from live jazz to DJs. Shakespeare Tavern 61 Albert St. Unreconstructed Kiwi pub raised above the pack by brewing a handful of commendable ales and lagers. Best on the ﬁrst-ﬂoor terrace.

Starks Corner of Queen & Wellesley sts. Cool, relaxing and stylish little cocktail bar offering the best gin and tonics in town, people-watching and highly polished professional service. Tabac 6 Mills Lane. Cosy establishment co-owned by former Crowded House singer/songwriter Neil Finn; good for a drink in the bar (where there’s often a DJ), or take it through to the sofas of the intimate Velvet Room out back. Closed Sun & Mon.

The suburbs Dogs Bollix Corner of Karangahape & Newton rds. See map, p.117. Lively ersatz Irish bar with a soft spot for visitors, plus cheap bar food and live music every night (originals and cover bands). Galbraith’s Alehouse 2 Mount Eden Rd. See map, p.122. Micro-brew pub with some of New Zealand’s ﬁnest English-style ales plus a handful of other local brews and ﬁfty-odd bottled varieties. Back-to-basics bar meals include liver and onions and ﬁsh and chips – all at very reasonable prices. Lime 167 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. See map, p.117. Longstanding locals’ favourite with a reputation as a singles bar – get more than thirty people and you’re so close you can’t help striking up a conversation. Good cocktails and singalong music make this a fun late-night hangout. The Mustang Saloon 444–448 Kyhber Pass Rd, Newmarket. A Wild West theme sets the scene for

seating. Always heaving at weekends when Chicane, the club upstairs, comes alive. The Whiskey 210 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. See map, p.117. Stylish modern bar with something of the feel of a groovy gentleman’s club, all chocolate leather sofas and white brick walls hung with superb photos of Little Richard, the New York Dolls, Jimi Hendrix and more.

Clubs and gigs

Boogie Wonderland Queen St, near the corner with Customs St T 09/361 6093. Club that pays homage to seventies disco (plus a little funk and eighties pop), and even has a ﬂashing, colouredsquare danceﬂoor. The clientele is mostly over 25, though few can remember Saturday Night Fever from the ﬁrst time around. $10 entry. Fu Bar 166 Queen St. A cool basement club with a good danceﬂoor that kicks off about 10pm with occasional alternative and progressive sounds. Bigname spinners hit the spot regularly, when cover charges can rise to $25 plus. Khuja Lounge 3rd ﬂoor, 536 Queen St T 09/377 3711. Khuja means “melting pot” in Arabic and

that sums up the feel in this lounge bar which calls itself the “Home of Aotearoa Soul”. The funky jazz, soul and hip-hip (often with live bands) certainly attracts a slightly older, musically inclined crowd. $5–10 in. Closed Sun–Tues. Kings Arms 59 France St, Newton T09/373 3240. Popular pub and second-string venue hosting local and touring acts who can’t quite ﬁll the bigger venues. Typically $5–25 in. Safari Lounge 116 Ponsonby Rd. Swanky venue for cocktails, DJ-led dancing and occasionally live bands.

| Drinking, nightlife and entertainment

Auckland by sheer weight of venues gets to see more bands than anywhere else; indeed, the bigger international acts often make it no further. The clubbing torch currently burns brightest along Karangahape Road, where you can join the nightly flow of young things meandering between the bars and clubs. Unless someone special is on the decks or a band is playing, few clubs charge more than $5 admission, and many are free, encouraging sporadic and unpredictable exits – just follow the crowds. Most of the venues mentioned in “Pubs and Bars” (see p.131) double as venues for live acts, employ DJs or put on some form of entertainment. Many of the clubs have one area set up as a stage and on any night of the week you might find top Kiwi acts and even overseas bands blazing away in the corner; a few pubs may also put on a band from time to time. Bigger acts understandably opt for the larger venues; tickets can be booked through Ticketek (T 09/307 5000, W www.ticketek.co.nz). One of the best ways to see local acts is to attend one of the free summer concerts held in The Domain and elsewhere under the Music in Parks banner (Jan–March; T 09/379 2020, W www .aucklandcity.govt.nz;), mostly on Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons. All venues listed are in the city centre unless otherwise specified; see map on p.127.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

this popular bar with saddles for stools and live music (Wed–Fri), thankfully not often country and western. They also serve generous portions of TexMex and pizza. Sponge 198 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. See map, p.117. A ﬂashy oval bar adorns the centre of this modern cocktail bar-cum-designer club where DJs spin house and hip-hop and well-dressed, slightly older partygoers canoodle on the leather booth

Classical music, dance, theatre and comedy The theatre scene lacks a professional company with a permanent venue but the Auckland Theatre Company (T 09/309 0390, W www.atc.co.nz) is firmly established at both the Aotea Centre and the Maidment, with occasional performances elsewhere. The Aotea Centre doubles as the major venue for classical music, opera and ballet but events are sporadic: the New Zealand

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Festivals

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| Drinking, nightlife and entertainment 134

As beﬁts a city of its size, Auckland has numerous festivals and annual events. These are some of the best. Anniversary Day (Jan, last Mon). Massive sailing regatta on Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour. Big Day Out (Jan, 3rd Fri). One day rock/pop/dance festival, with acts from all over the world at Mt Smart Stadium in the otherwise unvisited suburb of Penrose. Wwww .bigdayout.com, tickets about $125. International Buskers Festival (beginning of Feb). Wwww.crackerjackpromotions .co.nz. Mission Bay Jazz and Blues Streetfest (Feb, 2nd Sat). Wwww.jazzandbluesstreetfest .com. Devonport Food, Wine and Music Festival (Feb, 3rd weekend). Local retailers and vintners get together to charge extra (tickets $40) for their wares while mostly local acts play a little light music. Pasiﬁka (March, 1st or 2nd weekend). A celebration of Polynesian and Paciﬁc Island culture (music, culture, food and crafts) held at Western Springs Park and stadium Friday night and all day Saturday. Round the Bays Fun Run (March, 2nd or 3rd Sun). Up to 70,000 people jog 9km along the Tamaki Drive waterfront. Wwww.roundthebays.co.nz. Royal New Zealand Easter Show (Easter weekend). Family entertainment Kiwi style, with equestrian events, wine tasting and arts and crafts, all held at the ASB showgrounds along Greenlane. International Comedy Festival (mid-May to early June). Wwww.comedyfestival .co.nz. Auckland International Film Festival (mid- to late July). The Auckland leg of this nationwide ﬁlm tour. Wwww.enzedff.co.nz.

Symphony Orchestra strikes up every month or so, the Wellington-based New Zealand Ballet calls in during its tours of the provinces and the Auckland Opera puts on several shows a year. The Auckland Philharmonia (T 09/638 7073, W www.aucklandphil.co.nz) also present a number of shows, primarily at the Auckland Town Hall. The comedy scene is relatively lively, with a dedicated venue hosting regular stand-up, while from mid-May to early June theatres and pubs are jumping with local stand-up comics and top-flight international acts for the three-week International Comedy Festival. Aotea Centre Aotea Square, Queen St T09/309 2677. New Zealand’s ﬁrst purpose-built opera house and the home stage for the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra and the New Zealand Ballet. The Auckland Theatre Company performs in its Herald Theatre. Civic Theatre Corner of Queen and Wellesley sts T 09/307 2677. Lovely theatre worth visiting if there’s anything at all on – could be dance, theatre or classic movies. The Classic 321 Queen St T 09/373 4321, W www.comedy.co.nz. Bar and comedy venue hosting top local names and touring acts. Shows

Mon–Sat but the best line-ups are at weekends. $20–25 for the main acts, $15 for the nightly 10.30pm improv. Maidment Theatre Corner of Princess & Alfred sts T09/373 7599, Wwww.maidment.auckland.ac.nz. Two university theatres, with mainstream works in the larger venue and more daring stuff in the studio. Silo Theatre 1/108 Quay St T 0800/8425 3835, W www.silotheatre.co.nz. Small venue specializing in less mainstream plays and events. Success varies, but there’s usually something interesting on.

Cinema

and a wall-to-wall curved screen. Screens the smarter end of mainstream movies. Lido 427 Manukau Rd, Epsom T09/630 1500, W www.lidocinema.co.nz. Grab a beer or wine, sink into wide seats, and enjoy mainstream and classic movies with digital sound. Rialto 167 Broadway, Newmarket Wwww.rialto .co.nz. One of the most accessible of the fringe cinemas and resplendent after restorative work.

| Listings

Academy 44 Lorne St T 09/373 2761, Wwww .academycinemas.com. Predominantly arthouse cinema with two screens tucked underneath the main library. Bridgeway 122 Queen St, Birkenhead T 09/418 3308, W www.bridgeway.co.nz. Renovated movie theatre on the North Shore that makes cinemagoing even more of a pleasure with its intimate feel, good foyer food and coffee, luxurious seating

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Suburban multiplexes have virtually killed off smaller cinemas, leaving central Auckland with one twelve-screen monstrosity and two arthouse screens. We’ve listed the best of the smaller cinemas around the city, mostly in the inner suburbs. Admission is often reduced before 5pm (especially Mon–Wed); the New Zealand Herald has listings. The annual Auckland International Film Festival, usually held in mid-July, presses many of these cinemas into service for arthouse and foreign screenings.

Listings Automobile Association 99 Albert St T 09/966 8800, W www.aa.co.nz. Bike rental Adventure Cycles, 1 Laurie Ave, Parnell (T 0800/335 566, Wwww.adventure-auckland .co.nz), has city bikes for $20 a day, mountain bikes from $25 a day and offers touring bikes at around $230 a month. Adventure Cycles also offer a service whereby you buy the equipment and they’ll buy it back from you at the end of your trip for half the purchase price. Hedgehog Bikes, 72 Barrys Point Rd, Takapuna (T09/489 6559, W www.hedgehog.co.nz), also rent bikes (around $230/month plus fees for panniers etc) and will generally pick up from the airport and drop off a little out of Auckland. Bookshops The biggest bookshops are on Queen St: Borders is at no. 291 (T09/309 3377), and Whitcoulls at no. 210 (T 09/356 5400). Unity Books, 19 High St (T 09/307 0731), is more highbrow; for a massive selection of second-hand books visit Hard to Find (But Worth The Effort), either at 238 K’ Rd (T 09/303 0555), or 81a Victoria St, Devonport (T09/446 0300). Buying a car For general advice, consult Basics (see p.41), then peruse the noticeboards in hostels and at the main visitor centre. One of the best bets is the Backpackers Car Market, 20 East St (daily 9.30am–5pm; T 09/377 7761, Wwww .backpackerscarmarket.co.nz), just off K’ Rd, where backpackers buy and sell directly to each other. Alternatively head to the Auckland Car Fair, Ellerslie Racecourse, Greenlane (every Sun 9am–noon; T 09/529 2233, W www.carfair.co.nz), which is

well organized, with qualiﬁed folk on hand to check roadworthiness. Alternatively, glance through the page of cars for sale in the weekly Auto Trader or Trade & Exchange magazines, or pick up Wednesday’s or Saturday’s New Zealand Herald. Camping and outdoor equipment For top-quality gear visit Bivouac, 210 Queen St T 09/366 1966), and 300 Broadway, Newmarket (T 09/529 2298). Kathmandu, 151 Queen St, (T09/309 4615), and 255 Broadway, Newmarket (T09/520 6041), are best for low-cost clothing and gear, especially during their frequent half-price sales. It’s also worth checking hostel noticeboards for offers. Car rental The international and major national companies all have depots close to the airport and free shuttle buses to pick you up; smaller companies are mostly based in the city or inner suburbs. In the central city, you’ll ﬁnd several close together along Beach Rd. The main international and local operators are listed in Basics (see p.40). Consulates Australia (T 09/921 8820; Wwww .australia.org.nz); Canada (T09/309 8516; W www.international.gc.ca/newzealand); Ireland (T09/977 2252); UK (T09/303 2973; Wwww .britishhighcommission.gov.uk); USA (T09/303 2724; W www.wellington.usembassy.gov.com). Currency exchange Most places are clustered around the harbour end of Queen St. Travelex, 34 Queen St T09/377 2666; Money World, 155 Queen St T09/366 3280. Emergencies Police, ﬁre and ambulance, T 111; Auckland Central police station T09/302 6400.

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Laundry Clean Green Laundromat, 18 Fort St, T09/358 4370 (Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat 8am–5pm). Left luggage Lockers at the Sky City Bus Terminal, 102 Hobson St (accessible daily 7am–8.30pm), and most of the larger hostels also have long-term storage for one-time guests at minimal or no charge. Library Auckland Public Library, 44–46 Lorne St, T 09/377 0209 (Mon–Fri 9.30am–8pm, Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm). Maps Auckland Map Centre, National Bank Centre, Shop 3, 209 Queen St, T 09/309 7725, Wwww .aucklandmapcentre.co.nz, or Speciality Maps, 46 Albert St, T 09/307 2217. Medical treatment Auckland City Hospital, Park Rd, Grafton, T09/367 0000; Travelcare, Level 1, 125 Queen St, T09/373 4621 (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm), offers diving medicals, physiotherapy, X-rays and dental

treatment; CityMed Medical Centre, corner Albert St and Mills Lane, has doctors and a pharmacy (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9.30am–2pm). Registered medical practitioners are listed separately at the beginning of the White Pages phone directory. Newspapers and magazines Auckland’s morning paper is the New Zealand Herald (W www.nzherald.co.nz), the closest New Zealand gets to a national daily. The best selection of international newspapers – mostly from Australia, UK and the US – is at Borders, 291 Queen St. This is also your best bet for specialist magazines, which are also sold at branches of Magazzino (123 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby; and 3 Mortimer Passage, Newmarket). Pharmacy The most convenient late-opening pharmacy is the Auckland City Urgent Pharmacy, 60 Broadway, Newmarket (Mon–Fri 8.30am–1am, Sat & Sun 9am–1am); emergency departments of

Moving on from Auckland Moving on from Auckland is a straightforward business. There’s just one daily intercity train service (T 0800/872 467, Wwww.tranzscenic.co.nz) each way between Auckland and Wellington. Frequent bus services (see below) fan out from central Auckland: InterCity, Newmans and Northliner Express all leave from the Sky City terminal on Hobson Street; the rest depart from opposite the Ferry Building on Customs Street. InterCity/Newmans T09/623 1503, Wwww.intercitycoach.co.nz: The widest selection of destinations. Northliner Express T 09/623 1503, W www.northliner.co.nz. Routes to Northland shared with Intercity. Guthreys Express T 0800/732 528, W www.guthreys.co.nz: Auckland–Hamilton– Rotorua. Dalroy Express T 06/759 0197, Wwww.dalroytours.co.nz: Auckland–Hamilton–New Plymouth–Hawera. Go Kiwi T 0800/446 549, W www.go-kiwi.co.nz: Auckland–Thames–Whangamata– Whitianga and Auckland–Hamilton. Northbound drivers can take either SH1 directly over the harbour bridge, or go west around the head of the Waitemata Harbour past the wineries, West Coast beaches and Waitakere Ranges to meet SH1 at Wellsford. Cyclists must use the Devonport Ferry rather than the harbour bridge if heading north but will do well to take the western route, possibly riding a suburban train to Waitakere ($1 for the bike; travel outside peak hours). Southbound cyclists are better off following the Seabird Coast, avoiding the Southern Motorway, the main route south out of the city. The network of ferries and ﬂights linking the islands in the Hauraki Gulf presents more interesting ways to get out of the city. You might, for example, spend a few days on Great Barrier Island then continue to the Coromandel Peninsula without returning to Auckland (for details see our Great Barrier Island account from p.157). Another option is the 360 Discovery ferry service (T 0800/888 006, W www.360discovery.co.nz) to Coromandel Town. It runs four times a week and at just $49 one way is a viable alternative to taking the bus via Thames. Finally, if you’re on your way out of New Zealand, remember to keep $25 aside for your airport tax, payable on site.

Taxis Alert T 09/309 2000; Co-op T09/300 3000; Discount T 09/529 1000. Travel agencies Numerous in the city centre including Flight Centre with branches at 2 Fort St (T09/377 4655) and 350 Queen St (T09/358 4310), and STA Travel, 187 Queen St (T09/309 0458) and 267 High St (T 09/356 1550). Women’s centres Auckland Women’s Centre, 4 Warnock St, Grey Lynn (Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; T09/376 3227, Wwww.womenz.org.nz), offers counselling and health advice and has a library. The Women’s Bookshop, 105 Ponsonby Rd (T09/376 4399), specializes in feminist literature and women’s interest books.

Real New Zealand begins, for many, in the immediate vicinity of Auckland, where verdant hills and magnificent beaches replace towerblocks, suburbs and sanitized wharfs. The Waitakere Ranges, to the west of the city offer a viable break from urban bustle. The hills also serve to deflect the prevailing westerly winds, providing shelter for the vineyards around Kumeu. Spectacular expanses of sand are found along New Zealand’s western seaboard, but it is only at Auckland’s West Coast beaches that you will find surflifesaving patrols in reassuring numbers. Heading north, Auckland infringes on southern Northland, making the Hibiscus Coast a virtual suburb. South of Auckland, the Hunua Ranges offer a few modest walks and provide a windbreak for the Seabird Coast, where low shingle banks and extensive mudflats form an excellent breeding ground for dozens of migratory species.

| Around Auckland • West of Auckland

Around Auckland

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hospitals (see “Medical treatment” above) have 24hr pharmacies. Post ofﬁce Auckland’s main post ofﬁce is just off Queen St in the Bledisloe Building, 24 Wellesley St, T 09/379 6710 (Mon–Fri 7.30am–5.30pm), and has poste restante facilities. Swimming Central pools include the indoor Edwardian-style Tepid Baths, 102 Customs St West (Mon–Fri 6am–9pm, Sat & Sun 7am–7pm; T 09/379 4745), and the open-air saltwater Parnell Baths, Judges Bay Rd (Nov–Easter Mon–Fri 6am–8pm, Sat & Sun 8am–8pm; T 09/373 3561). Otherwise, simply head for one of the beaches (see “The North Shore”, p.118).

West of Auckland Auckland’s suburban sprawl peters out some 20km west of the centre among the enveloping folds of the Waitakere Ranges. Despite being the most accessible expanse of greenery for over a million people, the hills remain largely unspoilt, with plenty of trails through native bush. On hot summer days, thousands head over the hills to one of half a dozen thundering surf beaches, largely undeveloped but for a few holiday homes (known to most Kiwis as baches) and the odd shop. The soils around the eastern fringes of the Waitakeres nurture long-established vineyards, mainly around Kumeu, just short of the Kaipara Harbour town of Helensville and the hot pools at Parakai. You’ll need your own transport to do justice to the beaches and most of the ranges, unless you join one of the West Coast tours: Bush & Beach (T 0800/423 224, W www.bushandbeach.co.nz) offer afternoon trips ($125) or the more satisfying full-day tour ($185) taking in Piha Beach.You can also see the area on canyoning trips (see p.125).

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As far as public transport goes, Auckland’s suburban trains make it as far as Henderson and Waitakere – a boon for cyclists keen to get out of the city quickly – and Richies buses #066 & #067 run through Henderson to Kumeu and Helensville. AUCKL AND AND AROUND

The Kumeu and Huapai wineries

| West of Auckland

Once a viticultural powerhouse, West Auckland has been eclipsed by bigger enterprises in Marlborough, Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay. There is still some production, however, centred around the contiguous and characterless villages of KUMEU and HUAPAI. As early as 1819 the Reverend Samuel Marsden planted grapes, ostensibly to produce sacramental wine, in Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands, but commercial winemaking didn’t get under way until Dalmatians turned their hand to growing grapes after the kauri gum they came to dig ceased to be profitable (see p.226). Many of today’s businesses owe their existence to immigrant families, a legacy evident in winery names such as Babich, Delegat, Nobilo and Selak. Today, the region produces quality wines, usually Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The free and widely available Kumeu: Classic Wine Country booklet details the half-dozen wineries that can be visited. One of the most pleasurable is Matua Valley, Waikoukou Valley Road, Waimauku (daily 10am–5pm; T 09/411 8301, W www.matua.co.nz). Here you can taste, picnic or repair to the Hunting Lodge restaurant (T 09/411 8259; closed Mon; $25–40 for main dishes) set beside the vines. Alternatively Soljans, 366 SH16 (T 0508/765 526, W www.soljans.co.nz), right on the main road, has worthwhile cellar-door sales and a pleasing café. If you plan some serious tasting, designate a non-drinking driver or leave the car behind and join one of the West Coast tours (see p.137), who visit wineries as part of wider explorations. Better still, spend the day with Fine Wine Tours (T 0800/023 111, W www.insidertouring.co.nz), who offer a Kumeu half-day tour ($139), visiting three wineries and allowing time for lunch.

The Waitakere Ranges and the West Coast beaches

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Auckland’s western limit is defined by the bush-clad Waitakere Ranges, rising up to five hundred metres. The hills are a perennially popular weekend destination for Aucklanders intent on a picnic or a stroll and the western slopes roll down to the wild, black-sand West Coast beaches. Pounded by heavy surf and punctuated by precipitous headlands, these tempestuous shores provide a counterpoint to the calm, gently shelved beaches of the Hauraki Gulf. The Kawarau a Maki people knew the region as Te Wao Nui a Tiriwa or “the Great Forest of Tiriwa”, aptly describing the kauri groves that swathed the hills before the arrival of Europeans. By the turn of the century, diggers had pretty much cleaned out the kauri gum, but logging continued until the 1940s, leaving the land spent. The Auckland Regional Council bought the land, built reservoirs and designated a vast tract as the Centennial Memorial Park, with two hundred kilometres of walking tracks leading to fine vistas and numerous waterfalls that cascade off the escarpment. The easiest access to the majority of the walks and beaches is via the Waitakere Scenic Drive (Route 24), which winds through the ranges from the dormitory suburb of Titirangi, in the foothills, to the informative Arataki visitor centre (Sept–April daily 9am–5pm; May–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–4pm,

Whatipu is the southernmost of the West Coast surf beaches, 45km from central Auckland and located by the sand-bar entrance to Manukau Harbour, the watery grave of many a ship. The wharf at Whatipu was briefly the terminus of the precarious coastal Parahara Railway, which hauled kauri from the mill at Karekare across the beach and headlands during the 1870s. The tracks were

| West of Auckland

Whatipu

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Sat & Sun 9am–5pm), which shows an excellent twelve-minute DVD about the area on demand (free). A felled kauri has been transformed by Kawarau a Maki carvers into a striking pou, or guardian post, which marks the entrance and sets the tone for several smaller carvings within. Outside, walkways forge into the second-growth forest: the ten-minute plant identification loop trail identifies a dozen or so significant forest trees and ferns; a longer trail (1hr 15min) visits one of the few mature kauri stands to survive the loggers. Arataki is also the place to pick up camping permits (call the Parksline in advance on T 09/366 2000) for the seven sites ($5 per person) in the ranges, marked on the Waitakere Ranges Recreation and Track Guide map ($8, available from the visitor centre). Beyond the visitor centre, the scenic drive swings north along the range, passing side roads to the beaches, noted for their foot-scorching gold-and-black sands and demanding swimming conditions. Before entering the water, read the box below, and heed all warning signs. No buses run out this way, but Piha Surf Shuttle (T 09/627 2644; reserve at least 24hr in advance) picks up in Auckland around 8.30am and leaves Piha for the city at 4pm (Dec–Feb daily; $50 return).

Always swim between the flags The New Zealand coast is frequently pounded by ferocious surf and even strong swimmers can ﬁnd themselves in difﬁculty in what may seem benign conditions. Every day throughout the peak holiday weeks (Christmas–Jan), and at weekends through the rest of the summer (Nov–Easter), the most popular surf beaches are monitored daily from around 10am to 5pm. Lifeguards stake out a section of beach between two red and yellow ﬂags and continually monitor that area: always swim between the ﬂags. Before entering the water, watch other swimmers to see if they are being dragged along the beach by a strong along-shore current or rip. Often the rip will turn out to sea, leaving a “river” of disturbed but relatively calm water through the pattern of curling breakers. On entering the water, feel the strength of the waves and current before committing yourself too deeply, then keep glancing back to where you left your towel to judge your drift along the shore. Look out too for sand bars, a common feature of surf beaches at certain tides: wading out to sea, you may well be neck deep and then suddenly be only up to your knees. The corollary is moments after being comfortably within your depth you’ll be ﬂoundering around in a hole, reaching for the bottom. Note that boogie boards, while providing ﬂotation, can make you vulnerable to rips, and riders should always wear ﬁns (ﬂippers). If you do ﬁnd yourself in trouble, try not to panic, raise one hand in the air and yell to attract the attention of other swimmers and surf rescue folk. Most of all, don’t struggle against the current; either swim across the rip or let it drag you out. Around 100–200m offshore the current will often subside and you can swim away from the rip and bodysurf the breakers back to shore. If you have to be rescued (or are just feeling generous), a large donation is in order. Surf lifeguards are dedicated volunteers, always strapped for cash and in need of new rescue equipment.

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continually pounded by surf, but a second tramway from Piha covered the same treacherous expanse in the early twentieth century. Scant remains are visible, including an old tunnel that proved too tight a squeeze for a large steam engine whose boiler still litters the shore. Over the last few decades, the sea has receded more than half a kilometre, leaving a broad beach backed by wetlands colonized by cabbage trees, tall toe toe grasses and waterfowl. It’s a great place to explore, particularly along the base of the cliffs to the north where, in half an hour, you can walk to the Ballroom Cave, fitted with a sprung dancefloor in the 1920s that apparently still survives, buried by five metres of sand that drifted into the cave in the intervening years. The only sign of civilization now is Whatipu Lodge (booking essential; T 09/811 8860, E [emailprotected]; tents $15 per site, rooms 3 ). Occupying an 1870 former mill manager’s house, the lodge has no mains electricity (it generates its own for limited hours), but has communal cooking facilities and hot showers. Bring a sleeping bag. Karekare, Piha and Te Henga

You can walk 5km north along the beach from Whatipu to KAREKARE, otherwise reached by a seventeen-kilometre road from Arataki visitor centre. Perhaps the most intimate and immediately appealing of the West Coast settlements, Karekare has regenerating manuka, pohutukawa and cabbage trees running down to a deep, smooth beach hemmed in by high promontories, and only a smattering of houses. In one hectic year, this dramatic spot was jolted out of its relative obscurity, providing the setting for beach scenes in Jane Campion’s 1993 film The Piano and the inspiration for Crowded House’s Together Alone album. The Karekare Surf Club patrols a safe swimming area on summer weekends, or there is a pool below Karekare Falls, a five-minute walk on a track just inland from the road. There is nowhere to stay here, and no facilities. For decades PIHA, 20km west of the Arataki visitor centre, has been an icon for Aucklanders. A quintessential West Coast beach with a string of low-key weekend cottages and crashing surf, it lures a wide spectrum of day-trippers and the party set, whose New Year’s Eve antics hastened in a dusk-till-dawn alcohol ban on holiday weekends. Piha is on the brink of change, its quaint old-time baches displaced by upmarket beach houses, a gentrification that will be hastened by a proposed café, owned by TV celeb and former-All Black Marc Ellis. The 3km sweep of gold-and-black sand is hemmed in by bush-clad hills and split by Piha’s defining feature, 101m Lion Rock. This former pa site, with some imagination, resembles a seated lion staring out to sea; the energetic climb to a shoulder twothirds of the way up (20–30min return) is best done as the day cools. The Tasman Lookout Track (30–40min return) leaves the south end of the beach, climbing up to a lookout over the tiny cove of The Gap, where a spectacular blowhole performs in heavy surf. Most swimmers flock to South Piha, where the more prestigious of the two surf-lifesaving clubs hogs the best surf. North Piha Road follows the beach for 2km to the second surf club; if battling raging surf isn’t your thing, head for the cool pool below Kitekite Falls, a three-stage plunge reached on a loop track (1hr 30min) that starts 1km up Glen Esk Road, running inland opposite Piha’s central Domain. Day-trippers are catered for by a general store and surf shop, a traditional burger bar at South Piha (summer only) and the Piha Memorial RSA, 3 Beach Rd,

MURIWAI, the most populous of the West Coast beach settlements, lies 15km north of Piha and 10km coastwards from Huapai. Again, there’s wonderful surf, and a long beach stretching 45km north to the heads of Kaipara Harbour. The main attraction is at the southern end of the beach where a gannet colony (late Oct to mid-Feb) occupies Motutara Island and Otakamiro Point, the headland between the main beach and the surfers’ cove of Maori Bay. The

| West of Auckland

Muriwai

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which welcomes visitors. There’s also a surf shop with a great view, Piha Surf (T 09/812 8723, W www.pihasurf.co.nz), a couple of kilometres before the beach on the road in. The self-contained caravans ($25) and cabins ($35) at the Piha Surf Shop provide good places to stay. For something upmarket, Black Sands Lodge, 54 Beach Rd (T 021/969 924, W www.pihabeach.co.nz), offers jazzed-up Kiwi baches from the 1940s (6 ). Their larger suites (8 ) exude beach chic with big decks, French doors and quality furnishings and bedding. The lively hosts will also prepare romantic four-course dinners, served in your suite (around $125 a head, excluding wine). Three kilometres back from the beach, with great ocean views, Piha Lodge, 117 Piha Rd (T 09/812 8595, W www.pihalodge.co.nz; 5 ), has comfortable rooms and an outdoor pool. The smaller and much less popular TE HENGA (also known as Bethell’s Beach) lies at the end of a long road from Waitakere, 8km north along the coast. Less dramatic than Karekare, Piha or Muriwai, Te Henga is correspondingly less visited, making it good for escaping the crowds in the summer. There are no shops, but there is a surf club and luxurious accommodation at Bethells Beach Cottages (T 09/810 9581, W www.bethellsbeach.com) – at either the elegant pohutukawa-shaded Te Koinga Cottage (9 ), housing up to seven but comfortably sleeping two couples, or Turehu Cottage (8 ), a smaller studio sleeping two; both with kitchens.

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gannet, Muriwai

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| West of Auckland 142

gannets breed here before migrating to sunnier climes, a few staying behind with the fur seals that inhabit the rocks below. Gannets normally prefer the protection of islands, this is one of the few places where they nest on the mainland, just below viewing platforms from where you get a bird’s-eye view. Short paths lead up here from near the surf club and off the road to Maori Bay. To explore the beach, dunes and pine forests to the north, join a horse trek run by the Muriwai Beach Riding Centre, 290 Oaia Rd (2hr; $70; T 09/411 8480, W www.aucklandhorsehire.org.nz).To try surfing, visit the Muriwai Surf School (T 021/478 734, W www.muriwaisurfschool.co.nz), where you can rent gear (board and wetsuit $40/3hr), take a lesson (introductory $55, advanced $90) or muck around on blow carts ($45, 1hr) and mountain bikes ($10, 1hr). Its shed is located behind Sand Dunz Beach Café, at the road junction close to the beach, a modern café and takeaway that stays open well into the evening in summer. If you want to stay, try the B&B at Muriwai Beach Lodge, 380 Motutara Rd (T 0800/687 499, W www.muriwainz.co.nz; 5 ), half a kilometre back from the beach, or the shaded Muriwai Beach Motor Camp, (T 09/411 9262; camping $12). For those without transport, Bush & Beach Ltd (see p.137) run half-day and day-trips out here.

The southern Kaipara: Helensville and Parakai Venture beyond the vineyards of Kumeu and you’ll soon find yourself in uninspiring HELENSVILLE, 45km from Auckland but more closely associated with the Kaipara Harbour (see p.223). Like many Kaipara towns, Helensville was founded on timber that, following the completion of the rail link to Auckland in 1881, was floated here in huge rafts then loaded onto freight wagons. Dairying has replaced the kauri trade and though the spread of the Auckland conurbation is threatening, Helensville still potters along. Photos and displays of the busier days can be seen at the new Helensville Pioneer Museum (Wed, Sat & Sun 1–3.30pm; $5; W www.helensvillemuseum.org.nz), at 98 Mill Rd as you enter town from Muriwai. You’ll get a better idea of what the kauri logging days were like with Kaipara Cruises (T 09/420 8466, W www.helensville.co.nz/kewpie.htm), who run a series of trips from December to March on an old wooden ferryboat.Trip times are tide dependent (call or check the website) and leave either from the wharf at Springs Road in Parakai, north of the Aquatic Park (see below), or from Shelly Beach wharf, 20km north of Helensville. The three-hour Historical and Nature Cruise ($15) visits kauri mill sights and logging camps around the harbour, and the seven-hour Great West Coast Sand Safari ($55) includes a cruise to Poutu Point, south of Dargaville, where you link up with a 4WD sand bus to visit a historic lighthouse before returning by boat to Helensville. To get to Kaipara Harbour you have to drive through PARAKAI, 3km north of Helensville, chiefly noted for its Aquatic Park (daily 10am–10pm; $15, private spa $6 extra per hour; T 09/420 8998, W www.aquaticpark.co.nz), where pools are filled by natural hot springs; entry includes free use of a couple of buffeting water chutes. Richies buses #066 and #067 (T 0800/103 080; not Sun) operate from Britomart to Parakai and Helensville. There’s a visitor centre, 87 Commercial Rd (daily 10am–4pm; T 09/420 8060, W www.helensville.co .nz), in the heart of town.

North of Auckland

Orewa and the Whangaparaoa Peninsula

| North of Auckland

The most striking of the Hibiscus Coast beaches is the three-kilometre strand backed by OREWA, the region’s main town and home to most of the area’s accommodation and restaurants. Apart from swimming – and kitesurfing for those with their own gear – there isn’t a great deal to do except a few bushwalks and minor diversions such as the town’s stern-looking statue of Edmund Hillary. South of Orewa, the Whangaparaoa Peninsula juts out 12km into the Hauraki Gulf, its central ridge traced by Whangaparaoa Road. This passes the small-time, narrow-gauge Whangaparaoa Steam Railway, 400 Whangaparaoa Rd (Sept–June, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm, plus school holidays Mon–Fri 10am–4pm; $6; W www.rail.co.nz) on the way to Shakespear Regional Park (8am–dusk; free), a pleasant place to swim and wander through regenerating bush spotting pukeko, red-crowned parakeets and tui. The peninsula’s most enticing diversion, though, is a trip to the bird sanctuary of Tiritiri Matangi (see p.161), with boats leaving from the vast Gulf Harbour Marina just before Shakespear Park.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

The straggling suburbs of north Auckland merge into the Hibiscus Coast, which starts 40km north of the city and is increasingly favoured by retirees and long-distance commuters. The region centres on the suburban Whangaparaoa Peninsula – a launching point for trips to Tiritiri Matangi Island (see p.161) – and the anodyne beachside community of Orewa, now mostly bypassed by an extension of the northern motorway. Immediately to the north, the hot springs at Waiwera herald the beach-and-BBQ scene of Wenderholm Regional Park and the classic old Puhoi pub. Travelling north, the account continues on p.169 with Warkworth.

Practicalities

A complex web of Auckland buses (call Maxx, T 0800/103 080) fan out from Auckland’s Britomart Transport Centre to the Hibiscus Coast. The best routes are #893 and #896, which take an hour.These, and Northland-bound InterCity and Northliner buses, stop in central Orewa after passing the well-stocked i-SITE visitor centre, 214a Hibiscus Coast Hwy (daily 10am–4pm; T 09/426 0076, W www.orewa-beach.co.nz). The buses continue along Whangaparaoa Road to Shakespear Park several times a day, passing within 2km of the Tiritiri Matangi wharf. Campsites and backpackers offering budget accommodation are supplemented by dozens of motels and a few B&Bs. Motel prices peak from Christmas to the end of January. Accommodation Edgewater Motel 387 Hibiscus Coast Hwy T 09/426 5260, E [emailprotected]. Comfortable budget motel with spa and a range of units, some beachside. Units 3 , beachside 4 Orewa Beach Holiday Park 265 Hibiscus Coast Hwy T 09/426 5832, E [emailprotected]. Orewa’s only campsite, located at the south end of town and with a host of amenities. Camping $16, waterfront camping $18, cabins 2

Pillows Travellers Lodge 412 Hibiscus Coast Hwy T09/426 6338, Wwww.pillows.co.nz. Fairly central hostel with modern dorms, four-shares and rooms, some en suite. Dorms $20, rooms 1, en suites 2 The Ridge Greenhollows Rd, 10km north of Orewa T0508/843 743, Wwww.theridge.co.nz. Luxurious, eco-friendly lodge with panoramic views of the sea, farmland and bush, and a host of bushwalks fanning out from the house. Three-course dinners available ($65). 8

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Eating and drinking

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Asahi 6 Bakehouse Lane T 09/426 0065. Simply furnished Japanese restaurant where the sushi is tasty and the teriyaki chicken ($18.50) to die for. Hola! Moana Court T 09/427 4652. A casual, good-value Mexican with all the favourites including $15 fajitas.

Muldoon’s Westpac Plaza, Moana Ave. Convivial Irish Bar with moderately priced meals and a courtyard that catches the afternoon sun.

Waiwera and Wenderholm

| North of Auckland

The main highway north of Orewa (buses #893 and #896) runs through the cluster of holiday and retirement homes that make up Hatfields Beach to WAIWERA, 6km north of Orewa, where Maori once dug holes in the sands to take advantage of the natural hot springs. Bathing is now in the Waiwera Infinity Thermal Spa Resort, Waiwera Road (daily 9am–10pm; $22; W www.waiwera.co.nz), where a network of suicidal waterslides and indoor and outdoor pools are naturally heated to between 28 and 43°C. The Superpass ($40) gives you resort entry, half an hour private spa and a sunbed session. Occupying a high headland between the estuaries of the Puhoi and Waiwera rivers, Wenderholm Regional Park was the first of Auckland’s regional parks. Its sweeping golden beach is backed by pohutukawa-shaded swathes of grass and is often packed with barbecuing families on summer weekends. Walking tracks range from twenty minutes to two hours winding up to a headland viewpoint through nikau palm groves that have been turned into a “mainland island”. By trapping and poisoning, the headland is kept free of introduced predators, allowing native birds to return, some reintroduced from Tiritiri Matangi (see p.161). You can also take a peek at Coudrey House Museum (Jan daily 1–4pm, Feb–Dec Sat & Sun 1–4pm; $2), an 1860 colonial homestead. Buses terminate here on summer Sundays; if you need to stay there’s a nicely sited water-and-toilets campsite ($10) with grassy plots and a BBQ beside the mangroves.

Puhoi

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The village of PUHOI, 6km north of Waiwera, remains a bucolic place, settled by staunchly Catholic Bohemian migrants who arrived in 1863 from Egerland, in what was then the Austro-Hungarian Empire (now the Czech Republic). The land was poor, and settlers were forced to eke out a living by cutting the bush for timber: the horns of famed bullock teams are still ranged round the walls of the historic Puhoi Tavern, a colonial hotel containing a single-roomed bar festooned with pioneering paraphernalia and photos. Few visit anywhere other than the pub, but Puhoi Bohemian Museum (Christmas–Easter daily 1–4pm; Easter–Christmas Sat, Sun & school holidays 1–3.30pm; $2) in the former Convent School, is interesting if only for the historic model of the village. Gentle activity beckons in the form of kayaking, or canoeing, along a tidal section of the river (1hr; double kayak or canoe $40) or downstream to Wenderholm (2hr; double kayak or canoe $80, including pick-up) with Puhoi River Canoe Hire (T 09/422 0891, W www.puhoirivercanoes.co.nz; bookings essential). For refreshments, hit the pub or drive 3km north to The Art of Cheese café (9am–5pm) where they make tasty cheeses.

Southeast of Auckland

The Hunua Ranges

| Southeast of Auckland

A considerable amount of rain is dumped on the 700m-high Hunua Ranges, 50km southeast of Auckland, flowing down into a series of four dams that jointly supply over half the city’s water.The bush surrounding the reservoirs was once logged for kauri but has largely regenerated, providing a habitat for birds, rarely seen in the city. Access to the region is easiest through the village of CLEVEDON, whose cafés and craft shops shouldn’t detain you from visiting, 9km east along SH25, Clevedon Coast Oysters (Mon–Fri 7am–4.30pm, Sat 9am–2pm, Sun 10–4pm; W www.clevedonoysters.com), for a bargain bag or dozen pack of delicious local oysters. Pressing on south to Hunua, you’ll come across the Hunua Ranges Park visitor centre (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; T 09/292 4823), selling the Hunua & Waitakere Recreation Areas map ($12) – invaluable for extended walks in the ranges. The best of the walks are around the thirty-metre Hunua Falls, about 5km east, where the Wairoa River carves its way through the crater of an ancient volcano. There’s good swimming here, or you could take the half-day loop hike crossing the Wairoa River at the falls and following the Massey Track to Cosseys Dam and back down the Cosseys Gorge Track to the falls.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Most southbound travellers hurry along Auckland’s southern motorway to Hamilton or turn off to Thames at Pokeno – either way missing out on the modest attractions of the Hunua Ranges and the Seabird Coast on its eastern shore. For cyclists in particular the coast road is an excellent way into and out of Auckland, following Tamaki Drive from the centre through Panmure and Howick to Clevedon and the coast. Even for Auckland day-trippers the older and more rounded Hunuas play second fiddle to the more ecologically rich Waitakeres, but there are some decent walks – notably around the Hunua Falls. There are greater rewards further south with excellent seabird viewing and hot pools at Miranda.

The Seabird Coast and Miranda The Firth of Thames, a sheltered arm of the Hauraki Gulf separating South Auckland from the Coromandel Peninsula, borders the Hunua Ranges to the east. Its frequently windswept western littoral has become known as the Seabird Coast, in recognition of its international importance for migrating shorebirds; almost a quarter of all known species visit the region. During winter, the vast inter-tidal flats support 30,000-strong flocks, with over fifty percent of the entire world population of the wrybill plover over-wintering here. During the southern summer (Sept–March), the arctic migrants, who fly 15,000 kilometres from Alaska, Siberia and Mongolia, are more significant – notably bar-tailed godwits and lesser knots, as well as turnstones, curlews, sandpipers and red-necked stints. The tidal flats butt up against the geologically significant “chenier plain” around Miranda, where the land has been built up from successive deposits of shell banks; much has been converted to farmland but newer shell banks in the making can be seen along the coast. From Clevedon the coast road winds 35km past the small beach settlements of Kawakawa Bay and Orere Point, and the Tapapakanga Regional Park (primitive camping $10) to KAIAUA. Here you’ll find a couple of places to eat in the form of the Bay View Hotel, and the adjacent Kaiaua Fisheries, which operates a licensed seafood restaurant in the evening and serves good fish and chips.

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The coast’s birdlife is thoroughly interpreted at the excellent Miranda Shorebird Centre, 7km south of Kaiaua (daily 9am–5pm, and often later in the summer, when it’s awash with twitchers reluctant to leave; T 09/232 2781, W www.miranda-shorebird.org.nz); they’ll fill you in on the current hot sightings and point you in the direction of the best viewing spots. With a sunny veranda for viewing, the centre also has good-value self-catering accommodation (bunks $17.50, flat 2 ). A further 7km south are the slightly alkaline Miranda Hot Springs (daily 8am–9.30pm; $15, private spa $10 extra per 30min; W www.mirandahotsprings.co.nz), with a large, warm open pool and private kauri spa tubs. Guests at the adjacent Miranda Holiday Park (T 0800/833 144, W www.mirandaholidaypark.co.nz; tent sites $19, rooms 2 , s/c units 5 ) have access to their own landscaped mineral pool as well as a tennis court. From here it’s a twenty-minute drive to Thames (see p.362).

| Islands of the Hauraki Gulf • Rangitoto and Motutapu islands

Islands of the Hauraki Gulf Auckland’s greatest asset is the island-studded Hauraki Gulf, a seventykilometre-square patch of ocean to the northeast of the city. In Maori, Hauraki means “wind from the north” – though the gulf is somewhat sheltered from the prevailing winds and ocean swells by the islands of Great Barrier and Little Barrier, creating benign conditions for Auckland’s legions of yachties. Most just sail but those who wish to strike land can visit some of the 47 islands, administered by the Department of Conservation, designated either for recreational use with full access, or as sanctuaries for endangered wildlife, requiring permits. Auckland’s nearest island neighbour is Rangitoto, a flat cone of gnarled and twisted lava that dominates the harbourscape. The most populous of the gulf islands is Waiheke, increasingly a commuter suburb of Auckland, with sandy beaches and some quality wineries. Such sophistication is a far cry from the largest island hereabouts, Great Barrier, but the advent of seasonal fast ferries has put its sandy surf beaches, hilly tramping tracks and exceptional fishing within reach of holidaying locals and international visitors. The Department of Conservation’s policy of allowing access to wildlife sanctuaries is wonderfully demonstrated at Tiritiri Matangi, where a day-trip gives visitors an unsurpassed opportunity to see some of the world’s rarest birds. Frequent ferries run to the more popular islands from the Downtown Ferry Terminal by Auckland’s Ferry Building, at the foot of Queen Street; the DOC information centre is conveniently located in the same complex. Assorted Fullers offices sell tickets for most island-bound boats, as do 360 Discovery. For more on cruising and kayaking the Gulf, see “Adventure activities”, on p.123.

Rangitoto and Motutapu islands 146

The low, conical shape of Rangitoto, 10km northeast of the city centre, is a familiar sight to every Aucklander. Yet few set foot on the island, missing out on a freakish land of fractured black lava, the world’s largest pohutukawa

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forest clinging precariously to its crevices. Alongside lies the older, and geologically quite distinct, island of Motutapu or “sacred island”, linked to Rangitoto by a narrow causeway. A day-trip is enough to get a feel for Rangitoto, make the obligatory hike to the summit and tackle a few trails, but longer stays are possible if you pitch your tent at the primitive campsite at Home Bay on Motutapu. Rangitoto is Auckland’s youngest and largest volcano. Molten magma probably pushed its way through the bed of the Hauraki Gulf around six hundred years ago – watched by Motutapu Maori, who apparently called the island “blood red sky” after the spectacle that accompanied its creation. Others attribute the name to a contraction of Te Rangi i totongia a Tamatekapua (“the day the blood of Tamatekapua was shed”), recalling an incident when chiefs of the Arawa and Tainui clashed at Islington Bay. Rangitoto’s youth, lack of soil and porous rock have created unusual conditions for plant life, though the meagre supply of insects attracts few birds, making it eerily quiet. Pohutukawa trees seeded first, given a head start by their roots, which are able to tap underground reservoirs of fresh water up to 20m below the surface. Smaller and fleshier plants then established themselves under the protective canopy. Harsh conditions have led to some strange botanical anomalies: both epiphytes and mud-loving mangroves are found growing directly on the lava, an alpine moss is found at sea level, and the pohutukawa has hybridized with its close relative, the northern rata, to produce a spectrum of blossoms ranging from pink to crimson. The succulent pohutukawa leaves were a big hit with possums and wallabies, introduced in the 1880s, who ravaged the forests until the eradication programme of the early 1990s, which allowed the pohutukawa to rebound with vigour. Already Rangitoto is looking

| Rangitoto and Motutapu islands

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147

Rangitoto summit walk

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Rangitoto and Motutapu islands 148

The best way to appreciate Rangitoto Island is on foot, but bear in mind that, though not especially steep, the terrain is rough and it can get very hot on the black lava. Consequently the best walks are those that follow shady paths to the summit. A favourite is the clockwise Summit/Coastal Loop Track (12km; 5–6hr; 260m ascent) around the southeast of the island. Turn left just past the toilets at Rangitoto Wharf and follow signs for the Kowhai Grove, a typical Rangitoto bush area with an abundance of the yellow-ﬂowering kowhai that blossoms in September. Turn right onto the coastal road from Rangitoto Wharf then left into Kidney Fern Grove, which is packed with unusual miniature ferns that unfurl after rain. The well-worn Summit Track winds through patches of pohutukawa forest. Around three-quarters of the way to the summit, a side track leads to the lava caves (20min return) that probe deep into the side of the volcano. Further along the main track a former military observation post on the summit provides views out across Auckland city and the Hauraki Gulf. Continue northwards to the east–west road across the island and follow it towards Islington Bay; from there, pick up the coastal track south, initially following the bay then cutting inland through some little-frequented forests back to Rangitoto Wharf.

the better for it. Over the next five years a concentrated rodent eradication programme, costing 5 million dollars, should see off any other mammal pests and allow DOC to introduce more birds. Europeans gave Rangitoto a wide berth until the Crown purchased the island for £15 in 1854, putting it to use as a military lookout point and a workcamp for prisoners. From the 1890s, areas were leased for camping and, in keeping with the defiantly anti-authoritarian streak that thrived in early New Zealand, unauthorized baches were cobbled together on the sites. By 1937 over 100 baches had sprouted, but subsequent legislation decreed that they could be neither sold nor handed down and must be removed upon the expiry of the lease. In recent years the rules have been relaxed as the cultural value of this unique set of 1920s and 1930s houses has been appreciated. Only 34 remain and the people who still use them defend their right to do so. Some of the finest examples are being preserved for posterity, their corrugated iron chimneys and cast-off veranda-railing fenceposts capturing the Kiwi make-do spirit. Bach 38, near Rangitoto Wharf, has been restored to its 1930s condition and you’re free to look around the outside. If you’re lucky you might strike one of the days when the Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust (W www .rangitoto.org) open it up for inspection. The moment you step across the causeway onto Motutapu, the landscape changes dramatically; suddenly, you are back in rural New Zealand, with its characteristic grassy paddocks, ridge-top fencelines, corrugated iron barns and macrocarpa windbreaks. DOC’s plan is to gradually restore its cultural and natural landscape, replanting the valleys with native trees – you can join their volunteer programme (see p.74) – restoring wetlands and interpreting the numerous Maori sites. Until the trees grow, Motutapu will continue to have a much more open, pastoral feel than Rangitoto, but the views of the Hauraki Gulf make time spent here worthwhile, particularly tramping the Motutapu Walkway to the campsite and beach at Home Bay (6km; 1hr 30min one way), then back again.

Practicalities Fullers ferries (Mon–Sun 3 daily; $20 return) take forty minutes to reach Rangitoto Wharf, where there is a toilet block, the island’s only drinking

Pastoral WAIHEKE, 20km east of Auckland, is the second-largest of the gulf islands and easily most populous, particularly on summer weekends when daytrippers and weekenders quadruple its population. The traffic isn’t all one way, though, as the fast and frequent ferry service makes it feasible for a growing proportion of the islanders to commute daily for work in the city – a trend that is turning Waiheke into a suburb. For the moment, with its chain of sandy beaches along the north coast and a climate that’s slightly warmer and a lot less humid than Auckland, Waiheke retains its luxuriant character – and is popular with international visitors in search of a peaceful spot to recover from jet lag or to idle away a few days before flying home. The earliest settlers on Waiheke trace their lineage back to the Tainui canoe that landed at Onetangi and gave the island its first name,Te Motu-arai-Roa, “the long sheltering island”. Waiheke, or “cascading waters”, originally referred to a particular creek but was assumed by Europeans to refer to the island. Among the first settlers to set foot on Waiheke was Samuel Marsden, who preached here in 1818 and established a mission near Matiatia. The island then went through the familiar cycle of kauri logging, gum digging and clearance for farming. Gradually, the magnificent coastal scenery gained popularity as a setting for grand picnics, and hamper-encumbered Victorians, attired in formal dress, arrived in boatloads. Development was initially sluggish, but the availability of cheap land amid dramatic landscapes drew painters and craftspeople; others followed as access from Auckland became easier and faster.

| Waiheke Island

Waiheke Island

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

water, and a sun-warmed saltwater swimming pool (filled naturally by the high tide) that’s great for kids. Apart from the Home Bay campsite and a couple of toilets there’s nothing else on the island, so bring everything you need – including strong shoes to protect you from the sharp rocks, a sun hat and a raincoat. If you’re planning a walk, bring plenty of water. The first and last boats are met by the only transport on the island, a kind of tractor-drawn buggy that operates the two-hour Volcanic Explorer Tour ($50 including cost of ferry), a dusty summit trip with a full and informative commentary; the final 900m is on foot along a boardwalk. The DOC has intentionally done all they can to ensure that the twin islands are the preserve of day-trippers. As a concession to the hardy and determined, there is a primitive but pleasant beachside DOC campsite ($5; booking essential Christmas–Jan on T 09/379 6476), with toilets and water, at Home Bay on the eastern side of Motutapu, over an hour’s walk from Islington Bay and almost three hours’ walk from Rangitoto Wharf.

Arrival, information and transport Avoid Waiheke at the weekend, when it’s flooded by Aucklanders shopping, tasting at vineyards and occupying the eateries and bars, where there’s often live music. Lots of accommodation will demand a two-night minimum for Friday and Saturday, or will charge an additional fee. Better to visit midweek, the downside being a few wineries may not open, artists occasionally close their studios and trips requiring minimum numbers are harder to organize (outside the summer season). Fullers operate fast ferries (T 09/367 9111; roughly hourly; 35min; $28.50 return, bikes free) from the Ferry Building in Auckland to Matiatia Wharf ferry

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Information

| Waiheke Island

Waiheke’s main source of information is the efficient i-SITE visitor centre, 2 Korora Rd, Oneroa (daily 9am–5pm; T 09/372 1234, W www.waihekenz .com), where bags can be stored for $2 apiece. A further i-SITE exists in the ferry terminal but is rarely occupied. Shops, a couple of banks and a post office are also clustered in Oneroa. The weekly Gulf News ($1.50) comes out on Thursday afternoons and details of what’s on, as well as a rundown of arts and crafts outlets. The free Waiheke Week is also informative.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

terminal, at the western end of Waiheke. The wharf is just over a kilometre from the main settlement of Oneroa. If you’re staying for a couple of days or longer, you may find it cost-effective to bring your vehicle over using the daily car ferry, a flat-deck barge run by Sealink (T 0800/732 546, W www.sealink.co.nz; $120–160 return for a car plus up to four people) from Half Moon Bay near Pakuranga in Auckland’s eastern suburbs to Kennedy Point, between Huruhi and Putiki bays about 4km from Oneroa. 360 Discovery (T 0800/888 006, W www.360discovery.co.nz) run a service from Auckland to Coromandel (Tues, Thurs, Fri & Sun; Auckland–Orapiu $32, Orapiu–Coromandel $65) via the small wharf at Orapiu on the southeast corner of Waiheke. There’s no bus service down there, so it’s of limited use unless you fancy staying at Orapiu Bay Resort, who can arrange a pick-up, or bring a bicycle.

Getting around

Ferry arrivals and departures connect with Fullers buses (T 09/3697 9111), which run to Onetangi via Oneroa, Surfdale and Ostend, and to Rocky Bay via Oneroa, Little Oneroa and Palm Beach. Tickets and a 10-day pass (only worthwhile for three or more long journeys) are available on the bus. For more flexibility, rent a vehicle. Waiheke Auto Rentals (T 09/372 8635, W www .waihekerentalcars.co.nz), at Matiatia Wharf, are the most convenient and rent cars ($55 a day plus $0.60/km), 4WD ($80 plus $0.60/km), scooters ($55) and motorbikes ($75). Each car comes with an island pack, including an excellent map and a package of the more interesting brochures. Owned by the same company, Offshore Rentals, 2 Belgium St, Ostend (T 09/372 1018, W www .offshorerentals.co.nz), market older budget models for as little as $40 a day with unlimited mileage. Bikes from Waiheke Bike Hire (T 09/372 7937) at the Matiatia wharf cost $30 a day but remember Waiheke is undulating and you’ll need to be pretty fit. For taxis, contact the companies on p.155, which all run tours and dropoffs at accommodation around the island, prices depend on numbers and destination. Day-trippers are well catered for by a number of island tours. Fullers (T 09/3697 9111) run two. Their Explorer Tour (daily year-round departing Auckland 10am & noon; $44) includes an open-dated return ferry trip from Auckland, an hour-and-a-half island tour, plus an all-day bus pass so you can explore further on your own. The Vineyard Tour (Dec–Feb daily, March & Nov Wed–Sun, April–Oct Sat & Sun, departing Auckland 11am; $90) has the same benefits but spends four hours visiting three top vineyards including a light lunch at Stonyridge. On balance, this is the best way to tour the wineries, some of which are otherwise only open by appointment. Island-based operators include Ananda Tours (T 09/372 7530, W www.ananda.co.nz), who run personalized wine, eco, art and scenic tours around the island from around $90 per person (minimum numbers apply).

151

Accommodation

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If your visit coincides with the peak Christmas and January season or summer weekends, be sure to reserve a room as far in advance as possible – though this is less critical at the backpacker hostels. At other times, accommodation is plentiful, especially if you follow Aucklanders’ lead and go for B&Bs; most are registered with the i-SITE. Camping is restricted to the grounds of the various hostels and a simple but attractive site at Whakanewha Regional Park (reservations T 09/366 2000; $5) on the tidal Rocky Bay, though it’s a couple of kilometres’ walk from the nearest bus stop. There’s a lot to be said for basing yourself at one of the quieter and more relaxing beaches like Palm Beach and Onetangi, but many people prefer to stay close to Oneroa, for the convenience of being near the buses, restaurants and shops.

| Waiheke Island

Hotels, motels and B&Bs Giverny Inn 44 Queens Drive, Oneroa T 09/372 2200, W www.giverny.co.nz. Comfortable rooms in the main house and a separate independent cottage with fantastic views over the bay make this modern, friendly outﬁt one of the best places on the island. Rates (which start at $370) include welcome drinks and a sumptuous four-course breakfast. 9 Kiwi House 23 Kiwi St, Oneroa T09/372 9123, E [emailprotected]. A sociable place with several rooms (continental breakfast included), all with access to communal self-catering facilities, a TV lounge and BBQ. 4 Palm Beach Lodge 23 Tiri View Rd, Palm Beach T 09/372 7763, Wwww.waiheke.co.nz/palmbeach. htm. Luxurious salmon-pink guesthouse with lovely rooms, each with a balcony overlooking the sea. 7 Punga Lodge 223 Ocean View Rd, Little Oneroa T09/372 6675, W www.pungalodge .co.nz. Delightful and hospitable B&B, well located in the bush close to Oneroa beach, with tea and mufﬁns available from the helpful hosts. Accommodation consists of a range of comfortable and spacious en-suite doubles with verandas, and four self-catering apartments of different sizes. There’s a spa pool, and good-value off-season deals. They

also run the nearby Tawa Lodge, which has a wellpriced B&B and a very comfortable apartment with wonderful sea views. Ferry transfers available. Rooms 4 , garden rooms 5 , apartments 6

Hostels Fossil Bay Lodge 58 Korora Rd, Oneroa T09/372 8371. A relaxed, haphazard collection of huts located 5min walk from an all-but-private beach 1km from town on an organic farm. Single $30, rooms 1 Hekerua Lodge 11 Hekerua Rd, Little Oneroa T09/372 8990, Wwww.gotowaiheke.co.nz /hekerualodge.htm. Peaceful, pool-equipped backpackers set in the bush 10min walk from Oneroa. Some private rooms and a s/c unit. Tent sites $16, dorms $26, shares $30, rooms 3, unit 4 Orapiu Bay Resort 15 Anzac Rd, Orapiu T09/372 4443, Wwww.orapiubay.co.nz. Comfortable waterside backpacker resort on the southeast corner of the island, accessible by shuttle ($20, depending on numbers) from Matiatia and the 360 Discovery ferry between Auckland and Coromandel. It’s a relaxing place, with great swimming and an in-house bar and restaurant (Sat & Sun), and is handy for Passage Rock winery and pizzeria. Bunks $25, rooms 2

Around the island

152

The bulk of Waiheke’s population inhabits the western quarter of the island, chiefly around Oneroa, a kilometre east of the Matiatia Wharf. Waiheke’s finest beaches lie east of Oneroa: the almost circular Enclosure Bay for snorkelling, Palm Beach for swimming, and the more surf-oriented Onetangi. Waiheke has no shortage of diversions if you tire of the beaches. The bays and headlands lend themselves to short, often steep walks, detailed in the free Waiheke Island’s Walkways leaflet, available from the i-SITE. One of the best and most accessible coastal tracks leads from Oneroa past Little Oneroa around to Enclosure Bay, while inland there’s a shady stroll through regenerating bush of

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the Waiheke Forest and Bird Reserve, up behind Onetangi. If you’re still restless, try kayaking or sailing (see p.155). Oneroa and around

The settlement of ONEROA is draped across a narrow isthmus between the sandy sweep of Oneroa Bay and shallow, silty Blackpool Beach. The ridge-top main street runs up to the island’s visitor centre (see p.151), where you can pick up the free Waiheke Island of Wine Map and Waiheke Island Art Map, a guide to the scattered studios of Waiheke’s numerous artists and craftspeople. Artists’ studio opening times tend to be erratic, so call ahead. For a primer on what the island has to offer, call in at the Community Gallery (daily 10am–4pm; free), by the visitor centre and adjacent to the library and cinema. Next door is the eccentric Whittaker’s Musical Experience (daily 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; $3; W www.musical-museum.org), a room full of flageolets, piano accordions, player pianos, xylophones and more, some dating back two hundred years and all ably demonstrated during the occasional musical performances (30min; $12.50). The most accessible vineyard from Oneroa is Mudbrick, 2km west on Church Bay Road (T 09/372 9050, W www.mudbrick.co.nz; tasting daily in summer), which has an excellent restaurant (see p.155). The rest of the island

What passes for a main road on Waiheke winds east from Oneroa through the contiguous settlements of Little Oneroa, Blackpool and Surfdale, and across the lagoon at Putaki Bay to Ostend. The island’s light-industrial heart, far from any appealing beaches, Ostend is best ignored except on Saturday mornings (7am–1pm) when the Ostend Hall, corner of Ostend Road and Belgium Street, is given over to the Ostend Market, with organic produce, arts and crafts, food stalls, massage, iridology readings and local entertainers.

153

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Waiheke Island

Several of Waiheke’s most reputable wineries lie between here and Onetangi, many welcoming visitors. One of the best is Stonyridge, 80 Onetangi Rd (Dec–Feb daily 11.50am–5pm; March–Nov closed Wed; T 09/372 8822, W www.stonyridge.co.nz), where organic, hand-tended vineyards are used to produce the world-class Larose, one of New Zealand’s top Bordeaux-style reds. Each vintage is sold out before it’s even bottled so there are often limited cellar-door sales. You can dine alfresco, overlooking the vines, at the excellent low-key restaurant, where wines are on offer by the glass (including Larose at around $25 a pop). On the weekends they do a more formal and entertaining tour and tasting (Sat & Sun 11.30am; $10). Adjacent, you’ll find newly branded Wild on Waiheke, 82 Onetangi Rd (T 09/372 1014, W www.wildonwaiheke.co.nz), who offer wearisome corporate team-building activities but thankfully still produce their own beer from the Waiheke Island Brewery, providing an antidote to excessive wine talk. Call before visiting. Six kilometres east of Oneroa, Palm Beach takes a neat bite out of the north coast, with houses tumbling down to a small sandy beach separated by a handful of rocks from the nude bathing zone at its western end.Waiheke’s longest and most exposed beach is ONETANGI, popular in summer with surfers, board riders and swimmers, and an occasional venue for beach horse races, usually in mid-March. There’s very little habitation east of Onetangi, just tracts of open farmland riddled with vineyards. The main goal in these parts is the mass of abandoned World War II defences at Stony Batter Historic Reserve (daily: Christmas– Jan 9am–7.30pm; Feb–Christmas 10am–3.30pm; $5, plus $5 extra for a torch; T 09/372 5622) at the northeastern tip of the island 23km from Matiatia wharf. This labyrinth of dank concrete tunnels and gun emplacements was built to protect Auckland from a feared Japanese attack during World War II. The attack never came and after the war the guns and equipment were removed. The tunnels hold little allure but the views from the top are good. Stony Batter is a kilometre walk from the car park and visited by all the island tour buses.

154 The

Hauraki Gulf from Oneroa, Waiheke Island

Eating and entertainment

vineyard restaurant serving delicious meals. A red onion tarte tatin ($18) might be followed by seafood bisque medley ($35) perhaps washed down with wines produced on site. Palm Beach Clubhouse Palm Beach. Sophisticated restaurant and bar open for brunch at weekends but otherwise only delicious dinners (mains approaching $35, closed Mon). Passage Rock Café 438 Orapiu Rd, Orapiu T09/372 7257. A little inconveniently sited on a vineyard far from Waiheke’s towns, but if you’ve got wheels it is the place to go for toothsome wood-ﬁred pizza. Sand Bar 153 Ocean View Rd T09/372 9458. Chic little bar, great for a cocktail as the sun goes down and frequently hosting DJs at the weekend. Opens 4pm. Spice 153 Ocean View Rd, Oneroa. A licensed café open from breakfast through lunch, serving great coffee, snacks, sandwiches and cakes.

| Great Barrier Island (Aotea)

Ajadz 2 Korora Rd. Surprisingly good Indian with authentic food at bargain prices. Dinner daily, lunch weekends only. Cats Tango 21 The Strand, Onetangi. Lovely semiformal licensed café with music on Fri & Sat, tasty food and a fantastic deck with sea views out to Little Barrier Island. Cortado Espresso Bar 29 Waikare Rd, Oneroa. Wonderful cakes and coffee are served up in this stylish little café with great views and an excellent seafood menu, plus exceptional ﬁsh and chips dished up daily from the building next door, run by the same folk. Lazy Lounge 139 Oceanview Rd. A good place to hang out and watch an endless parade of local characters call in for coffee, wine, beer or food options like Thai green curry, pizza, Mexican burritos or a hearty slice of cake. Mudbrick Church Bay Rd, 2km west of Oneroa T 09/372 9050. Expensive but highly regarded

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Oneroa is unchallenged on Waiheke for its range of places to eat, with restaurants catering to the demands of city day-trippers. Elsewhere, the scene is more ad hoc, with beachside cafés serving snacks and fast food. Entertainment is limited, though it is worth checking listings for the Waiheke Island Community Cinema, 2 Koroka Rd, near the visitor centre. Live music mostly happens at weekends, with Sand Bar and Cats Tango worthy bets.

Listings Internet access The library on Oceanview Rd (daily 9am–5pm) and i-SITE have Internet access. Kayaking Ross Adventures (T 09/372 5550, W www.kayakwaiheke.co.nz) run guided trips from Matiatia: half-day trips (4hr; $70), evening trips (3hr; $70), full-day trips including a shuttle back to your starting point ($135) and round-theisland camping trips (2–4 days; around $135 per day). They also rent sea kayaks (from $35/halfday). The Kayak Company (T 09/372 2112, W www.thekayakcompany.co.nz) offers an almost

identical range at similar prices, plus a 2hr jaunt ($45) and a full day around Cactus Bay ($120). Medical emergencies Waiheke Island Community Health Services, 5 Belgium St, Ostend (T09/372 5005) and the Oneroa Accident and Medical Centre, Oceanview Rd (T09/372 3111). Sailing Flying Carpet, 104 Wharf Rd, Ostend (T09/372 5621, W www.ﬂyingcarpet.co.nz), offer day-trips on an ocean-going catamaran ($110), evening cruises ($50) and a range of others. Taxis Waiheke Dial-a-Cab T09/372 3000; Waiheke Quality Cabs T09/372 7000.

Great Barrier Island (Aotea) Rugged and sparsely populated Great Barrier Island (Aotea) lies 90km northeast of Auckland on the outer fringes of the Hauraki Gulf and, though only 30km long and 15km wide, packs in a mountainous heart which drops away to deep indented harbours in the west and eases gently to golden surf beaches in the east. It’s a two-hour ferry or half-hour plane ride from the city but seems a world apart. There is no mains electricity or water, no industry, no towns to speak of, and no regular public transport. This lends Great Barrier a

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sense of peace and detachment, enhanced by beaches, hot springs and tightly packed mountains clad in bush and spared the ravages of deer and possums. Ferries arrive in Tryphena, the southern harbour and major settlement, some continuing up the west coast to the minuscule hamlet of Port Fitzroy, an ideal jumping-off point for tramps in the Great Barrier Forest. Claris, in the east, is the site of the airport and is convenient for the best beaches at Medlands and Awana Bay. Some history

| Great Barrier Island (Aotea)

Great Barrier is formed from the same line of extinct volcanoes as the Coromandel Peninsula and shares a common geological and human past. Aotea was one of the places first populated by Maori, and the Ngatiwai and Ngatimaru people occupied numerous pa sites when Cook sailed by in 1769. Recognizing the calming influence of Aotea and neighbouring Hauturu on the waters of the Hauraki Gulf, Cook renamed them Great Barrier Island and Little Barrier Island. The vast stands of kauri all over the island were soon seized upon for ships’ timbers, the first load being taken in 1791. Kauri logging didn’t really get under way until the late nineteenth century but continued until 1942, outliving some early copper mining at Miners Head and sporadic attempts to extract gold and silver from a large quartz intrusion in the centre of the island. Kauri logging and gum digging were replaced by a short-lived whale-oil extraction industry at Whangaparapara in the 1950s, but the Barrier soon fell back on tilling the poor clay soils and its peak population of over 5000 dropped to around 1000. The space and tranquillity of the island appealed to budding alternative lifestylers, who trickled across from the mainland in the 1960s and 1970s. Much of the Seventies idealism has been supplanted by modern pragmatism, but self-sufficiency remains, more out of necessity than lifestyle choice. People grow their own vegetables, everyone has their own water supply and the strain on diesel generators is reduced by wind-driven turbines and solar panels. Agriculture takes a back seat to tourism, however, and wealthy second-home-owners are moving in. Islanders have resisted this trend but as land prices rocket, some on low incomes are forced to leave, while others head out when their kids reach high school age. Indeed, a dropping population and the need to cater for visitors means there’s often casual work available in the summer.

Arrival, information and transport

156

Points of entry are the airport at Claris, the grass airstrip at Okiwi in the north and the two main harbours of Port Fitzroy and Tryphena. Around the first there’s a couple of lodges and shops, leaving the bulk of the activity to the four main bays of Tryphena Harbour: Shoal Bay (where ferries arrive), Mulberry Grove, Stonewall Village (the largest settlement), and Puriri Bay (a short walk along the coast from Stonewall Village). The vast majority of visitors arrive from Auckland over the summer months aboard Fullers ferries to Tyrphena (days of departure vary enormously and depend on the time of year; 2hr; $70 one way, bikes $10; T 09/367 9111) The slower Sealink car ferry (T 0800/732 546, W www.sealink.co.nz), carries passengers, cars and just about all the island’s freight, leaving Wynyard Wharf in Auckland (Christmas–Jan daily; Feb–Christmas 5 weekly; 4hr 30min) for Tryphena, with one service a week (Tues) to Port Fitzroy (foot passengers $68 one way, $110 return; cars $330/$205). Ferries are met by shuttle buses, that generally run to the bays around Tryphena Harbour and on to Claris – if you want to go beyond Stonewall

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AUCKL AND AND AROUND

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Village book in advance. Fares are around $10 to Medlands, $20 to Whangaparapara and $12 to Claris, ask when you arrive. Bad weather occasionally causes ferries to be cancelled, but you can preempt any inconvenience by buying a boat/fly deal with Great Barrier Express (see below), flying back or out and taking the ferry the other way. Alternatively, fly both ways. The two main players are Great Barrier Airlines (GBA; T 0800/900 600, W www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz; $75–96 each way) and Great Barrier Xpress (T 0800/222 123, W www.mountainair.co.nz; generally

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AUCKL AND AND AROUND

$79–98 each way, fly/boat $150), both of which operate at least three scheduled flights a day from Auckland International Airport to Claris. GBA also flies from the Barrier to Whangarei and Whitianga 2–3 times a week. Newcomer Island Air (T 0800/545 455, W www.islandair.co.nz), offer flights from Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula for as little as $95 each way. Shuttle buses meet most flights but it’s better to book. Information

The island’s visitor centre (daily 9am–4pm; T 09/429 0033, W www.greatbarrier .co.nz) is opposite Claris airfield and run by the helpful folk from GBI (see below). The DOC office is the well-stocked and informative Port Fitzroy Area Office (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; T 09/429 0044), ten minutes’ walk west of the Port Fitzroy wharf. There are no ATMs and many places don’t accept credit cards, so bring cash. If you have an EFTPOS card on a New Zealand account you can get cash in shops and cafés.

| Great Barrier Island (Aotea)

Getting around

Great Barrier has no real scheduled public transport, though Great Barrier Buses (T 0800/426 832) run a service from Tryphena to Claris (five times a day) and Port Fitzroy (Wed & Sat). When things are quiet some buses don’t run, so call in advance. Many people rent a car for at least part of their stay. Rates range from $40 to $80 a day, depending on the vehicle; GBI Rent-a-Car (T 09/429 0062, W www.greatbarrierisland.co.nz), have a wide range and are the cheapest. Aotea Rentals (T 0800/426 832, W www.greatbarriertravel.co.nz) range upwards from $55. Note that all roads are gravel except for the run from Tryphena to Claris and the odd kilometre dotted around the island. Mountain bikes can be rented from Paradise Cycles in Claris (T 09/429 0303), though the hills are steep and the roads dusty and hot in summer.

Accommodation

158

Accommodation on Great Barrier ranges from camping to plush lodges. Walkers and campers are well served by basic campsites and a trampers’ hut and cabin, which is set up for groups. Most of these are towards the north of the island, close to the Great Barrier Forest: all six DOC campsites are marked on the map on p.157 and tend to be empty most of the year except from Christmas to the end of January, when you should book in advance (T 09/429 0044); note that camping is not permitted outside designated campsites. There are backpacker hostels scattered across the island but most other options are concentrated around Tryphena Harbour. Some of the best of the island’s selfcatering cottages are listed, but there are many more on lists at the visitor centre; the owners often live close by and can arrange breakfast and sometimes dinner while, given the dearth of places to eat, many lodges and guesthouses have self-catering facilities. Some places pick up from the harbours and airport, though those in Tryphena and Medlands will expect you to catch the shuttles that meet each boat or plane. The island’s remoteness means that accommodation is generally more expensive than the mainland, particularly through the summer; some places further boost their rates from Christmas to the end of January when visitor numbers are at their peak – and you’ll need to book well ahead to stand any chance of finding a place.

Lodges, guesthouses and cottages

The Crossroads Lodge 1 Blind Bay Rd, Crossroads T09/429 0889, Wwww.xroadslodge.com. Comfortable hostel well sited in the middle of the island, within walking distance of the hot springs

Akapoua DOC Campsite Orama. Harbour-edge site right by the DOC ofﬁce and an easy walk to the harbour and shop at Port Fitzroy. It comes equipped with cold showers and toilets. Camping $8–9. Awana DOC Campsite Awana. Exposed site with separate tent and vehicle sites, all 400m from a good surf beach. Cold showers and toilets. Camping $8–9. GBI Campground Puriri Bay, Tryphena T09/429 0184. A quiet sheltered campsite nestled in bush by a freshwater stream near a safe swimming beach, 20min walk to shops. Camping $9. The Green DOC Campsite Whangaparapara. Basic campsite with barbecues, water and toilets but no vehicle access. No showers but it’s close to the sea and there’s a stream to wash in. Camping $8–9. Harataonga DOC Campsite Harataonga. Shady site 300m back from the beach, equipped with toilets and cold showers. Camping $8–9. Medlands DOC Campsite Medlands Beach. Attractive beach-back site that gets very crowded in the peak season. Cold showers, stream water and toilets. Camping $8–9. Mickey’s Place Awana T09/429 0140. Hospitable commercial campsite 25km north of Tryphena that’s less well located than the nearby DOC site but has hot showers, toilets and a cookhouse, all for $7. Orama Karaka Bay, Port Fitzroy T 09/429 0063. A Christian centre also operating as a waterfront holiday park with swimming pool, shop, small boats and kayaks and access to magniﬁcent bushwalks, ﬁshing and diving. Camping $10, cabins 3 , s/c houses and cottages 4

| Great Barrier Island (Aotea)

Hostels

Campsites

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

Fitzroy House Glenfern Rd, Port Fitzroy T 09/429 0091, W www.ﬁtzroyhouse.co.nz and Glenfern Sanctuary (W www.glenfern.org.nz). The emphasis at Glenfern is on nature tourism and there is free use of canoes and a dinghy (sea kayaks are extra). Lodge guests can join a day-trip ($45–85 depending on numbers) that involves a Unimog 4WD journey, a hike and a botanical walkway to a suspension bridge into the top of a six-hundred-year-old kauri. Accommodation is in one comfortable s/c cottage sleeping six, with views over the northern shore of the inner harbour. 9 Great Barrier Lodge Whangaparapara Harbour T 09/429 0488, W www.greatbarrierlodge.com. This harbourside lodge is pretty much all there is at Whangaparapara, and also serves as the local shop. Accommodation is in cottages and studio units and the main building houses a bar/ restaurant. Bunkroom $40, cabin 3 , studios & cottages 6 The Jetty Kaiaraara Bay, Port Fitzroy T09/429 0050, E [emailprotected]. Sited around 2km from Port Fitzroy Wharf. B&B accommodation is in nicely decorated s/c chalets. 5 Oasis Lodge 50 Medlands Rd, Tryphena T 09/429 0021, W www.barrieroasis.co.nz. Lovely en-suite rooms, great valley views and a separate s/c cottage for the reclusive. Rooms are let on a B&B basis, though you are encouraged to stay for delicious dinners (see p.161). 8 Pigeons Lodge 179 Shoal Bay Rd, Tryphena T 09/429 0437, W www.pigeonslodge.co.nz. Small, comfortable and classy B&B (with delicious breakfasts) nestled in the bush near the sea, with en-suite accommodation and two self-catering chalets. Self-catering 5 , B&B 6 Pohutukawa Lodge Stonewall, Tryphena T 09/429 0211, W www.currachirishpub.com. The pick of the places around Tryphena, homely, small and welcoming, with a great pub and restaurant spilling out onto the veranda, all conveniently close to the shop. There are attractive en suites and backpacker rooms (linen supplied). Backpacker rooms $25, rooms 4 Sunset Waterfront Lodge Mulberry Grove, Tryphena T 09/429 0051, Wwww.sunsetlodge.co .nz. Upmarket motel-style accommodation. 6

and island tramps. Accommodation is in cabins or double rooms. Beds $30, rooms 3 Medlands Beach Backpackers 9 Mason Rd T09/429 0320, Wwww.medlandsbeach.com. Basic, low-key backpackers with two- and four-bed dorms, a secluded chalet and a couple of villas on a small farm 10min walk from Medlands Beach – making it popular with surfers. There are body boards for guests’ use, but there are no meals and no shops nearby, so bring your own food. Dorms $30, chalet 3 , villa 5 Stray Possum Lodge Shoal Bay T 0800/767 786, W www.straypossum.co.nz. This hostel has a bar and on-site licensed pizza restaurant (which also serves breakfast) set in a spacious clearing in attractive bush. Beds are in six- to eight-bed dorms or in s/c chalets ideal for groups of up to six. Camping $12, dorms $25, rooms 3 , chalets 5

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Around the island

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| Great Barrier Island (Aotea) 160

Much of the pleasure here is in lazing on the beaches and striking out on foot into the Great Barrier Forest, a rugged chunk of bush and kauri-logging relics between Port Fitzroy and Whangaparapara that takes up about a third of the island. If you’re looking for more structure to your day, there are a few small-time operators keen to keep you entertained by means of various activities and tours (see p.161). TRYPHENA has a particular dearth of things to do, though there is the appealing Tryphena to Okupu Walking Track (4hr), which runs from Puriri Bay around coastal headlands to Okupu on Blind Bay. Most people head straight for Medlands Beach, a long sweep of golden sand broken by a sheltering island and often endowed with some of the Barrier’s best surf – though, be warned, there is no patrolled area. The pretty blue and white St John’s Church looks suitably out of place, having only been moved here from the mainland in 1986 by barge before being dragged over the dunes. North of Medlands, the road leaves the coast for the airport at Claris, where the post office claims to be the world’s first place to have run an airmail service. The story goes that when the SS Wairarapa was wrecked on the northwest coast of Great Barrier in 1898, the news took a sobering three days to get to Auckland. In response the island set up a pigeon-mail service that was used until 1908, when a telephone was installed. Not far from the airport, the Milk, Honey and Grain Museum, 47 Hector Sanderson Rd (open most days, donation), boasts a collection of memorabilia neatly organized into three categories which reveals a lot more about the island than its name suggests – a worthwhile stop if the weather’s bad. Crossroads, 2km north of Claris, is just that – the junction of roads to Okupu, Port Fitzroy and the north of the island, and Whangaparapara. The Whangaparapara road runs past the scant roadside remains of the Oreville gold stamping battery (unrestricted entry) and the start of a path to Kaitoke Hot Springs (4km return; 1hr; also on the Great Barrier Forest Tramp – see p.162), sulphurous dammed pools that aren’t especially pretty but are perfect for an hour’s wallowing. At Whangaparapara itself, a short stroll around the bay brings you to the foundations of a whaling station built here in the 1950s. North from Crossroads, the Port Fitzroy road passes two excellent camping spots by the surf beach at Awana Bay, then the start of a track to Windy Canyon (1km; 20–30min return), a narrow defile that gets its name from the eerie sounds produced by certain wind conditions. The narrow path winds through nikau palms and tree ferns to a viewpoint that gives a sense of the island’s interior, as well as coastal views. The island’s highest point, Hirakimata, can be reached in three hours walking from Awana Bay or a similar time from PORT FITZROY, whose harbour remains remarkably calm under most wind conditions, a quality not lost on yachties who flock here in summer. Apart from the shop, burger bar and a few places to stay there’s not a lot here, but Port Fitzroy makes the best base for tramping or shorter day-walks to some fine kauri dams. For three years from 1926, the Kauri Timber Company hacked trees out of the relatively inaccessible Kaiaraara Valley, shunning the tramways and trestle bridges employed in more manageable terrain in favour of six kauri dams – wooden structures up to twenty metres high and spanning the valley floor. Logs were cut and rolled into the reservoirs as the stream built up the water level behind the dams. The upper dams were then tripped, followed seconds later by the lower dams; the combined releases sent a torrent of water and logs sluicing down to Kaiaraara Bay, where they were lashed together in rafts and floated to Auckland.

Eating and drinking

Mulberry Grove Store Mulberry Grove, Tryphena. Bar/eatery that’s well worth a visit for excellent coffee and good grub alongside a range of shop goods. Oasis Lodge 50 Medlands Rd, Tryphena T09/429 0021, Wwww.barrieroasis.co.nz. Delicious meals using local and homegrown produce (including their own Cabernet Sauvignon and olive oil), frequently with Thai, Indian or seafood themes. Evening meals are table d’hôte and will set you back $65 for three courses. Tipi & Bob’s Waterfront Lodge Puriri Bay, Tryphena T09/429 0550. A soulless public bar, leafy garden bar and spartan seafood and steak restaurant serving $15–35 mains. Whale Boat Bistro Great Barrier Lodge, Whangaparapara Harbour. Bar and restaurant serving meals indoors or on the spacious deck with harbour views.

| Tiritiri Matangi

Angasana Thai Restaurant just north of Crossroads, on Gray’s Rd. Completely unexpected, brilliant Thai and Kiwi licensed restaurant, open for lunch and dinner with a wide-ranging menu and friendly service. Claris Texas Café Claris T09/429 0811. Easily the best café on the island, with a sunny deck and a grassy patch for the kids. It’s open daily 8am–4pm for light meals, good chowder, panini, great desserts and excellent coffee. Currach Irish Pub Stonewall, Tryphena. An Irish Pub that’s about as traditional as you can get on a South Paciﬁc island – a lot of the paraphernalia came from the owner’s grandmother’s pub, in County Kerry, which closed in 1950. They have Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and there’s often live acoustic music, especially on Thurs when anyone is welcome to jam. Full breakfasts until 9.30am, and in the evening, great hot meals are served.

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

The relative lack of stand-alone restaurants encourages lots of accommodation places to offer meals, and those that don’t will almost certainly have self-catering facilities. Still, there are a few restaurants springing up, for which you should book in advance. There are also a shops in Tryphena, Claris, Whangaparapara and Port Fitzroy, where you can get snacks and pick up picnic provisions. Drinking tends to happen in bars attached to accommodation establishments or in the social clubs at Tryphena and Claris.

Listings Fishing To test Great Barrier’s enviable reputation, head out for a day’s ﬁshing in the Colville Channel aboard any of the Tryphena-based boats, who charge $380 a half-day ($640 a day) for four people including rod, tackle and bait. Try Tryphena Charters (T 09/429 0596). Golf Pioneer Park, Whangaparapara Rd, Claris (T 09/429 0420; green fee and club rental are ridiculously cheap), is a nine-hole par-three course surrounded by bush with pukeko strutting across the fairways; every Thurs and Sun the lively bar serves cheap drinks and decent meals. Internet The Crossroads Lodge (see p.159) has Internet facilities open to all, as does Claris Texas café (see above).

Kayaking Tryphena-based Great Barrier Kayaks (T027/660 022) run short paddling trips ($40 harbour cruise), joint 4–5hr kayak and snorkelling trips ($80) and sunset paddles ($50). Package Tours If organizing your own Barrier Island itinerary is too much trouble, go for an all-in package (book through Pohutukawa Lodge, see p.159) including ﬂights, two nights accommodation and car hire, all for $320 per person. Shuttle bus companies Choose from The Barrier Tour Co (T09/429 0222), Great Barrier Buses/ Great Barrier Travel (T 09/429 0474), Kaka Tours (T09/429 0640), GBI Buses (T 09/429 0062) and Sanderson Transport (T 09/429 0640).

Tiritiri Matangi A visit to Tiritiri Matangi is the highpoint of many a stay in Auckland. About 4km off the tip of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and 30km north of Auckland, Tiritiri Matangi is an “open sanctuary”, and visitors are free to roam through

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The Great Barrier Forest tramp

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| Tiritiri Matangi 162

The Great Barrier Forest, New Zealand’s largest stand of possum-free bush, offers a unique tramping environment. Because the area is so compact, in no time at all you can ﬁnd yourself climbing in and out of little subtropical gullies luxuriant with nikau palms, tree ferns, regenerating rimu and kauri, and onto scrubby manuka ridges with stunning coastal and mountain views. Many of the tracks follow the routes of mining tramways past old kauri dams. The only decent walking maps are the four Topomaps that cover the island, though DOC also print a Track Information leaﬂet (from the Auckland DOC ofﬁce) which will do for most purposes. Book huts in Auckland or use the local ﬁeld ofﬁce (see p.158).

Access and huts The tramp can be done equally well from Port Fitzroy or Whangaparapara, both of which can offer accommodation and a reasonably well-stocked shop. Port Fitzroy also has the 28-bunk Kaiaraara Hut nearby ($10), and the main DOC ofﬁce (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; T09/429 0044), which sells hut tickets and maps. In addition, Port Fitzroy’s Akapoua Bay campsite is superior to Whangaparapara’s simple The Green. If you have come speciﬁcally to tramp it is best to catch one of the infrequent ferries direct to Port Fitzroy. Alternatively, call one of the shuttle operators in advance to organize transport from the airport or Tryphena.

The tramp From the wharf at Port Fitzroy, follow the coast road ﬁfteen minutes south to the DOC ofﬁce. From there the road climbs for half an hour over a headland with views over Kaiaraara and Rarohara bays to a gate. The Kaiaraara Hut is roughly ﬁfteen minutes on, along a 4WD track and across a couple of river fords. From Kaiaraara Hut to Whangaparapara (13km; 7–9hr; 800m ascent), the route leaves the 4WD track and crosses the Kaiaraara Stream several times as it climbs steeply to the ﬁrst and most impressive kauri dam (see p.160), reached in under an hour. The welldeﬁned path continues for another ﬁfty minutes to one of the upper dams then begins a long and arduous series of boardwalks and wooden steps designed to keep

the predator-free bush where, within a couple of hours, it’s possible to see rarities like takahe, saddlebacks, whiteheads, red-crowned parakeets, North Island robins, kokako and brown teals. To stand a chance of seeing the littlespotted kiwi and tuatara, you’ll have to stay overnight. Evidence from pa sites on the island indicate that Tiritiri Matangi was first populated by the Kawerau-A-Maki Maori and later by Ngati Paoa, both of whom are now recognized as the land’s traditional owners. They partly cleared the island of bush, a process continued by Europeans who arrived in the midnineteenth century to graze sheep and cattle. Fortunately, predators such as possums, stoats, weasels, deer, cats, wallabies and the like failed to get a foothold, so after farming became uneconomic in the early 1970s Tiritiri was singled out as a prime site for helping to restore bird populations. The cacophony of birdsong in the bush is stark evidence of just how catastrophic the impact of these predators has been elsewhere. Since 1984, a reforestation programme has seen the planting of over 300,000 saplings and though the rapidly regenerating bush is far from mature, the birds seem to like it. Most are thriving with the aid of feeding stations to supplement diets in the leaner months, with nesting boxes standing in for decaying trees. Four of the species released here are among the rarest in the world, with total populations of around a couple of hundred. The most visible are the flightless takahe, lumbering blue-green turkey-sized birds long thought to be extinct (see

AUCKL AND AND AROUND

| Tiritiri Matangi

trampers on the path and prevent the disturbance of nesting black petrels. It’ll take a good thirty to forty minutes to reach the summit of the 621-metre Hirakimata (Mount Hobson), where you’ll be rewarded by panoramic views. Less extensive boardwalks extend south around the dramatic spire of Mount Heale towards the junction of two paths. To the right a path follows the south branch of the Kaiaraara Stream back to the Kaiaraara Hut in around an hour and a half, making a four- to- ﬁve-hour circuit from the hut. The leftmost path follows an undulating but gradually descending route into Kaitoke Creek No.1, eventually reaching the edge of Kaitoke Swamp right by the hard-to-locate Peach Tree Hot Spring just beyond the northernmost tip of the swamp. Originally dug by kauri loggers, the pools here are hotter than the more widely used Kaitoke Hot Springs – the latter reached along a ten-minute track which spurs off south twenty minutes ahead; the more attractive hollows are to be found upstream. Back on the main track, you soon reach the 4WD forest road: follow it south for a hundred metres or so, then join the signposted track to the former site of Whangaparapara Hut, ﬁfteen minutes on. From here it’s ten minutes’ walk to the DOC residence and half an hour to the Whangaparapara Wharf. There are two main routes from Whangaparapara to Kaiaraara Hut, the direct and dull route following the Pack Track due north of the former site of Whangaparapara Hut and the 4WD forest road (11km; 5hr; 200m ascent), and the more appealing semi-coastal Kiwiriki Track (12km; 6hr; 300m ascent) which branches off the 4WD forest road just north of its junction with the Pack Track. The track cuts west from the forest road by the rocky knob of Maungapiko, leading to the picnic area at Kiwiriki Bay then climbing steeply over a ridge to Cofﬁns Creek before a relatively gentle walk to a second picnic area at Kaiaraara Bay. From here it is half an hour to Kaiaraara Hut and another hour or so to the Port Fitzroy Wharf. An alternative start to either route eschews the Pack Track and follows the far more interesting Withey’s Track, which starts between the Whangaparapara DOC ﬁeld base and the former hut site; it takes half an hour longer, but goes through some lovely bush with delightful streamside nikau groves.

p.845); birds moved here from Fiordland have bred well and are easily spotted as they are unafraid of humans and very inquisitive. Saddlebacks, kokako and stitchbirds stick to the bush and its margins, but often pop out if you sit quietly for a few moments on some of the bush boardwalks and paths near feeding stations. Northern blue penguins also frequent Tiritiri, and can be seen all year round – but are most in evidence in March, when they come ashore to moult, and from September to December, when they nest in specially constructed viewing boxes located along the seashore path west of the main wharf.

Practicalities Tiritiri Matangi is typically visited as a day-trip, giving five hours on the island; you’ll need to take your own lunch, as there is no food available. 360 Discovery ferries (T 0800/888 006, W www.360discovery.co.nz) depart from Auckland’s Downtown Ferry Terminal (Christmas to mid-Jan daily 9am, rest of year Wed–Sun and public holidays 9am; $59 return) then call at Gulf Harbour (see p.143: 9.50am; $26.80 return) before arriving at Tiritiri around 10.10am. Boats arrive back in Auckland around 5pm. Visitors arriving on scheduled ferries can join guided walks (1–2hr; $5), leaving from the wharf and led by volunteers steeped in bird-lore.They typically finish near the lighthouse at the modern interpretation centre. Otherwise,

163

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you’re free to wander the island or indulge in a little swimming from Hobbs Beach, a ten-minute walk west of the wharf and the only sandy strand around. It’s also possible to stay overnight in a self-contained bunkhouse – bring a sleeping bag and food in sealed rodent-proof containers – near the lighthouse (T 09/476 0010; $20); weekends are booked months ahead and for week nights you’ll need to book two weeks in advance. For more detail on the island go to the Supporters of Tiritiri Matangi website (W www.tiritirimatangi.org.nz).

Little Barrier Island

| Little Barrier Island • Travel details

Very few visitors make it out to Little Barrier Island (Hauturu), 80km north of Auckland, a nature reserve barred to those without the necessary DOC permit. Although around a third of its trees were felled for timber before the government acquired the island and set it aside as a wildlife sanctuary in 1884, mountainous Little Barrier remains largely unspoilt. Home to fascinating creatures – including giant earthworms up to a metre long, the prehistoric tuatara and a mouse-sized version of the grasshopper-like weta – the island became completely pest-free in 2007 and now DOC plans to create a refuge for native birds.

Travel details For more on moving on from Auckland, see box, p.136 Trains Auckland to: Hamilton (1 daily; 2hr 30min); National Park (1 daily; 5hr 30min); Ohakune (1 daily; 6hr 30min); Otorohanga (1 daily; 3hr); Palmerston North (1 daily; 9hr 30min); Wellington (1 daily; 12hr).

Buses

164

Auckland to: Dargaville (1 daily, not Sat; 3hr); Gisborne (1 daily; 9hr 30min); Hamilton (14–16 daily; 2hr); Hastings (3 daily; 7hr 50min); Helensville (Mon–Fri 8 daily; 1hr 10min); Huntly (14–16 daily; 1hr 20min); Kaitaia (1 daily; 7hr); Kerikeri (3–5 daily; 5hr); Kumeu (4–8 daily; 35min); Mangonui (1 daily; 6hr 30min); Napier (3 daily; 7hr 20min); National Park (1 daily; 5hr 30min); New Plymouth (3 daily; 5hr 30min–6hr 15min); Ngaruawahia (14–16 daily; 1hr 30min); Ohakune (1 daily; 6hr); Orewa (5–7 daily; 30min); Paihia (4–6 daily; 4hr 20min); Palmerston North (4 daily; 9hr); Rotorua (6 daily; 4hr); Taihape (3 daily; 6hr 45min); Taupo (4 daily; 4–5hr); Tauranga (3 daily; 3hr 40min); Thames (4 daily; 1hr 45min); Waipu (4–6 daily; 2hr 30min); Waitomo Caves (1 daily; 4hr 20min); Warkworth (6–8 daily; 1hr); Wellington (4 daily; 11hr); Whangarei (5–8 daily; 3hr).

Ferries Auckland to: Coromandel (3 weekly; 2hr); Devonport (every 30min; 10min); Great Barrier (2–5 weekly; 2–5hr); Gulf Harbour Marina (3 daily; 50min); Rangitoto (2–4 daily; 40min); Tiritiri Matangi Island (4 weekly; 1hr 30min); Waiheke (7– 10 daily; 35min). Gulf Harbour Marina to: Tiritiri Matangi Island (4 weekly; 20min). Half Moon Bay to: Waiheke (11 daily; 45min).

Flights Auckland to: Bay of Islands (5 daily; 40min); Blenheim (4 daily; 1hr 20min); Christchurch (20–25 daily; 1hr 20min); Dunedin (1 daily; 1hr 50min); Gisborne (5–8 daily; 1hr); Great Barrier Island (5– 10 daily; 30min), Hamilton (3 daily; 30min); Kaitaia (1–2 daily; 50min); Napier (5–8 daily; 1hr); Nelson (12–14 daily; 1hr 20min); New Plymouth (5–8 daily; 45min); Palmerston North (5–8 daily; 1hr); Queenstown (4 daily; 1hr 50min); Rotorua (3–5 daily; 40min); Taupo (2–3 daily; 45min); Tauranga (6–9 daily; 35min); Wanganui (3–4 daily; 1hr); Wellington (20–30 daily; 1hr); Whakatane (3–5 daily; 45min); Whangarei (7–10 daily; 35min). Great Barrier Island: to Auckland (5–10 daily); Whitianga (2 weekly; 20min).

2 NORTHL AND

Northland

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CHAPTER 2

Highlights

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| Highlights

Poor Knights Islands Scuba dive amid caves, fabulous rock arches, abundant ﬁsh, and wrecks including the Rainbow Warrior. See p.180

Cape Reinga Sandboard giant dunes and see the Paciﬁc Ocean and Tasman Sea meeting in a maelstrom. See p.218

Whangaroa Harbour Sail around some of New Zealand’s most paradisiacal waters. See p.207

Hokianga Harbour Watch the sun set in a ﬁery rainbow of orange, fuchsia and indigo. See p.219

Taipa hinterland Catch open-mic poetry and local musicians at a full moon bazaar. See p.209

Waipoua Kauri Forest Marvel at New Zealand’s largest tree, the majestic 2000-year-old Tane Mahuta. See p.223

166 Red

pigﬁsh, Poor Knights Islands

2 NORTHL AND

Northland

hrusting 350km from Auckland into the subtropical north, Northland separates the Pacific Ocean from the Tasman Sea. The two oceans crash together off Cape Reinga, New Zealand’s most northerly road-accessible point. Kiwis often describe this staunchly Maori province as the “Winterless North”, a phrase that rightly evokes the palms and citrus trees, warm aquamarine waters and beaches of white silica and golden sand that make the upper reaches of the region such a magnet. Scenically, Northland splits down the middle. The east coast is a labyrinth of coves hidden between plunging headlands. Beaches tend to be calm and safe, with the force of occasional Pacific storms broken by clusters of protective barrier islands. There could hardly be a greater contrast than the long, virtually straight, west coastline pounded by powerful Tasman breakers and broken only by occasional harbours. Tidal rips and holes make swimming dangerous, and there are no lifeguard patrols. Some beaches are even designated as roads but are full of hazards for the unwary – and rental cars aren’t insured for beach driving. Exploration of the undulating interior involves long forays down twisting side roads. Beyond the Hibiscus Coast, on the east shore, is the rural Kowhai Coast, which is popular with yachties circumnavigating Kawau Island, and snorkellers exploring the underwater world of the Goat Island Marine Reserve. The broad sweep of Bream Bay runs to the dramatic crags of Whangarei Heads at the entrance to Northland’s major port and town, Whangarei. Off the coast here lie the Poor Knights Islands, New Zealand’s premier dive spot. Tourists in a hurry tend to make straight for the Bay of Islands, a jagged bite out of the coastline, dotted with islands perfect for cruising, diving and swimming with dolphins, and steeped in New Zealand history. Everything north of here is loosely referred to as The Far North, a region characterized by the quiet remoteness of the Whangaroa Harbour, Doubtless Bay, and the Aupori Peninsula, which backs Ninety Mile Beach all the way up to Cape Reinga. The west coast is very different from the east, marked by economic neglect over the last fifty years as kauri logging ended and dairying never successfully replaced it. First stop on the way back south from Ninety Mile Beach is the fragmented Hokianga Harbour, one of New Zealand’s largest, with spectacular sand dunes gracing the north head. South of here you’re into the Waipoua Forest, all that remains after the depredations of the kauri loggers, a story best told at the excellent Kauri Museum at Matakohe. Northland has no passenger train services so getting around by public transport means travelling by bus. If you’re driving the choices are limited to

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a major road up each side of the peninsula. This forms a logical loop formalized as the Twin Coast Discovery Highway: there’s no need to follow it slavishly, but the brown signs emblazoned with a dolphin and curling wave make a good starting framework. Some history

168

Northland was the site of most of the early contact between Maori and European settlers, and the birthplace of New Zealand’s most important document, the Treaty of Waitangi. Maori legend tells of how the great Polynesian explorer Kupe discovered the Hokianga Harbour and, finding the climate and abundance of food to his liking, encouraged his people to return and settle there. It was their descendants in the Bay of Islands who had the dubious honour of making the first contact with white men, as European whalers plundered the seas and missionaries sought converts. Eventually, the northern chiefs signed away their sovereignty in return for assurances on land and traditional rights, which were seldom respected. There is still a perception among some Maori in the rest of the country that the five northern iwi gave Aotearoa away to the Pakeha. As more fertile farmlands were found in newly settled regions further south, rapacious kauri loggers and gum diggers cleared the bush and later, as

extractive industries died away, pioneers moved in, turning much of the land to dairy country. Local dairy factories closed as larger semi-industrial complexes centralized processing, leaving small towns all but destitute, though the planting of fast-growing exotic trees and sporadic horticulture keep local economies ticking over.

| The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

Around 50km north of central Auckland the city’s influence begins to wane, heralding the Kowhai Coast, a thirty-kilometre stretch of shallow harbours, beach-strung peninsulas and small islands. Its individual character becomes apparent, once you pass pretty Warkworth and head out either to Kawau Island, or up the coast to Leigh and the snorkelling and diving nirvana of Goat Island. There’s little to detain you on SH1 between Warkworth and Waipu as it passes the road junction at Brynderwyn, where SH12 loops off to Dargaville, the Waipoua kauri forest and the Hokianga Harbour. If you’re heading north and want a scenic route, it’s better to stay on the coast and follow Bream Bay, named by Cook when he visited in 1770 and his crew hauled in tarakihi, which they mistook for bream. The bay curves gently for 20km from the modest, rocky headland of Bream Tail in the south, past the entrance of Whangarei Harbour to the dramatic and craggy Bream Head. There are no sizeable towns here, only the small beach communities of Mangawhai Heads and Waipu Cove, looking out to the Hen and Chicken Islands, refuges for rare birds such as the wattled saddleback.

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The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

Warkworth and around The Kowhai Coast’s main township, WARKWORTH, sits at the head of Mahurangi Harbour, sheltered from the sea by its peninsula. A peaceful and slow-paced rural town, it only really comes to life in high summer when thousands of yachties moor their boats in the numerous estuaries and coves nearby. From the late 1820s for about a century, the languid stretch of river behind the town seethed with boats shipping out kauri, initially as spars for the Royal Navy and later as sawn planks; a boardwalk now traces its shores. To learn more about the town’s past, head 3km south to the Warkworth and Districts Museum, on Tudor Collins Drive, signposted off the main road (daily: 9am until at least 3.30pm, but hours vary according to season, $6), which offers a fairly prosaic exploration of the region’s history through re-created rooms, and a five-metre-long, 130-link chain carved from a single piece of kauri. The two ancient kauri outside mark the start of two well-presented twenty-minute boardwalk nature trails through the preserved bush of the Parry Kauri Park (9am–dusk; donation). A free leaflet at the museum’s entrance explains the trees in detail. Just 4km south of Warkworth on SH1, stop in at the Honey Centre (daily 8.30am–5pm; T 09/425 0132, W www.honeycentre.co.nz; free) for free honey tastings, a peek at bees, and the chance to buy everything from mead to honey ice cream and honey smoothies, along with café fare like kumara chips with honey mustard. 169

The Northland website is Wwww.northland.org.nz.

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Following SH1 north of Warkworth, it’s 4km to Sheep World (daily 9am–5pm; entry $9, entry & show $17.50; T 09/425 7444, W www.sheepworld .co.nz/farm.htm), where there’s an entertaining, indoor sheep-shearing show (daily 11am & 2pm) and the chance to have a go at shearing a sheep yourself.The complex also contains a mini-farm and a short nature trail, along with a campsite, a backpackers (see below) and a café. The Dome Forest Walkway begins 2km further north on SH1, leading through native forest to a lookout point (40min return), before climbing steeply to the summit (90min return) for superb views. The path then descends gently to the twenty magnificent trees of the Waiwhiu Kauri Grove (3hr return). Practicalities

| The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

Warkworth’s i-SITE visitor centre, 1 Baxter St (Nov–Easter Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am–4pm; Easter–Oct Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–3pm, T 09/425 9081, W www.warkworth-information.co.nz), is in the centre of town at the junction of Queen and Neville streets, where InterCity and Northliner buses stop. You can eat well in town, or the nearby vineyards (see p.171). Accommodation Rosemount Homestead 25 Rosemount Rd, 4km northeast of Warkworth on the way to Matakana T09/422 2580, Wwww.rosemount.co.nz. A lovingly restored kauri homestead dating from 1900, with wraparound verandas, extensive gardens and a pool; each of the three rooms is en suite. 7 Saltings Guest House 1210 Sandspit Rd, Sandspit T 09/425 9670, Wwww.saltings.co.nz. Gorgeous boutique B&B on a hill overlooking the estuary. All rooms are en suite with their own patio and views of the estuary, and ﬁne breakfasts; independent self-catering in the Vintners Apartments at the edge of the vineyard. Rooms 7 , apartments 7 – 9 Sandspit Motor Camp 1334 Sandspit Rd T 09/425 8610, E [emailprotected]. Oldfashioned, well-kept estuaryside campsite offering free use of canoes, dinghies and a small golf course. Camping $15, cabins 2 Sheep World Caravan Park, Camping Ground & Backpackers 4km north of town, T09/425 9962, W www.sheepworldcaravanpark.co.nz. Camping

ground overlooking sheep-ﬁlled paddocks where campervans each get a private bathroom. Camping $15, dorms $25, on-site caravans & cabins 2 , s/c chalet 5

Eating Ducks Crossing Café Riverview Plaza. Good café with outdoor seating overlooking the river. Flavour 7 Neville St. Friendly hole-in-thewall where you can read the paper over excellent breakfasts and good strong coffee or tuck into lunches (around $15) such as warm beef salad or tofu burgers. The Pizza Co 18 Neville St. Cosy little restaurant perfect for a great chowder or a ﬁne pizza. The Verandah Café & Restaurant 3 Neville St T09/422 2111. The ﬁrst-ﬂoor timber veranda is a charming spot to enjoy coffee and pastries, lunches, and dinner mains ($26–29) such as mustard-seared salmon steak with ﬂuffy mashed potatoes, with suggested wine pairings, and sinful desserts ($11–12) like Baileys double cream chocolate mousse. Closed Mon & Tues.

Kawau Island

170

With a resident population of around seventy (plus lots of weekenders), KAWAU ISLAND is chiefly given over to holiday homes each with its own wharf. Unless you have your own boat, however, you’ll most likely only visit the Kawau Island Historic Reserve, a bayside enclave in the southwestern corner of the island. It’s centred on the grand, kauri-panelled Mansion House (daily: Christmas–Feb & Easter 10am–4pm; rest of the year noon–3.30pm; $4), the former private home of George Grey – then doing his second stint as New Zealand’s governor – and furnished much as it would have been in Grey’s time, including his writing desk, books and some silverware.

Practicalities

Matakana and around MATAKANA, 9km northeast of Warkworth, is little more than a road junction at the heart of a fledgling winemaking region, though the surrounding area is dotted with crafts workshops. The catalyst for the region’s development was the Morris & James Pottery & Tileworks, 2km from Matakana at Tongue Farm Road (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; free), which in the late 1970s exploited New Zealand’s fortress economy by producing handmade terracotta tiles and large garden pots from local clay. You can catch a free thirty-minute tour of the pottery (Mon–Fri 11.30am) before a visit to the café/bar. Despite received wisdom about high humidity and proximity to the sea, newly planted vineyards have proliferated in the last decade or so. The free and widely available Matakana Coast Wine Country booklet currently details half a dozen wineries offering tastings (most for a small charge). First stop should be Heron’s Flight, 49 Sharp Rd (daily from 10am; T 09/422 7915, W www.heronsflight.co.nz), where Italian Sangiovese, Pinotage and Chardonnay have been planted with considerable success.You can dine at the lovely restaurant overlooking the vines, or wander through the gardens of heritage plants and Maori medicinal herbs. Other good bets are Ascension Vineyard & Café, 480 Matakana Rd, 4km east of Warkworth (daily 10am–5pm; T 09/422 9601, W www.ascensionvineyard .co.nz), where the pleasant café/restaurant serves Mediterranean-style dishes for lunch as well as dinner Fri and Sat (bookings advised); and Matakana’s original winery, Hyperion Wines (Christmas–Jan daily plus rest of year Sat & Sun; T 09/422 9375, W www.hyperion-wines.co.nz), on Tongue Farm Road 1km from Morris & James. For a high-quality snack head for the tiny Pop-in Patisserie on Matakana Valley Road in Matakana itself, and if you are around on a Saturday, you won’t be able to (and shouldn’t) miss the town’s bustling Farmers’ Market.

| The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

Boats to Kawau Island leave from the wharf (council-run parking available) at Sandspit, a small road-end community on the Matakana Estuary, 8km east of Warkworth. Throughout the year, Reubens (T 0800/111 616, W www.reubens .co.nz) operate the Royal Mail Run (daily 10.30am; 4hr; $52 return; $70 with BBQ lunch), delivering mail, papers and groceries to all the wharves on the island and giving you around an hour and a half ashore at Mansion House Bay. Reubens also runs one to two Mansion House Bay trips daily that give you roughly twice the time ashore ($38). The same company also operates water taxi services daily all year round to various bays on the island. Bring whatever you need to Kawau: there are no shops, though the café at Mansion House Bay is open daily from 10am till late (mains $14–26).

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Grey’s pursuit of the Victorian fashion for all things exotic resulted in magnificent grounds stocked with flora and fauna from all over the world, such as Chilean wine palms and coral trees. He also brought in four species of wallaby, which have overtaken the island and have to be regularly culled.You might even see Australian kookaburras and a white peacock. A path runs through the gardens to the tiny beach at Lady’s Bay (5min) and on to a network of short tracks that weave through pine forest and kanuka scrub. The most popular destination is the ruins of the island’s old copper mine (40min each way).

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Tawharanui Regional Park

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Just past Matakana, a side road runs about 10km southeast to Tawharanui Regional Park, with great beaches and swathes of regenerating bush. Predators have been eradicated and native birds are returning to this designated open sanctuary: come to swim, snorkel, picnic and walk or bike the easy trails, but you’ll have to bring everything with you. The only facilities are the campsite ($10; book ahead on T 09/366 2000).

Leigh and Goat Island

| The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

East of Matakana, the road runs 13km to the village of LEIGH, and a picturesque harbour with bobbing wooden fishing boats. Heading a further 4km northeast brings you to the Cape Rodney–Okakari Marine Reserve, usually known simply as Goat Island for the bush-clad islet 300m offshore. Established in 1975, this was New Zealand’s first marine reserve, stretching 5km along the shoreline and 800m off the coast. More than three anglingand shellfishing-free decades later, the undersea life is thriving, with large rock lobster and huge snapper. Feeding has been discouraged since blue maomaos developed a taste for frozen peas and began to mob swimmers and divers. Easy beach access (from the road-end parking area), clear water, rock pools on wave-cut platforms, a variety of undersea terrains and relatively benign currents combine to make this an enormously popular year-round diving spot, as well as a favourite summer destination for families: aim to come midweek if you value tranquillity. In fine weather, join forty-five-minute glass-bottomed boat tours around the island on the Aquador (Sept–April; $20; T 09/422 6334, W www .glassbottomboat.co.nz), which depart from the beach. Snorkellers can enjoy a lush world of kelp forest with numerous multicoloured fish; those who venture deeper find more exposed seascapes with an abundance of sponges. The highly professional Goat Island Dive, 142a Pakiri Rd, Leigh (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 8am–5pm; T 0800/348 369, W www.goatislanddive.co.nz) rents snorkelling equipment plus full dive gear and also run trips to Goat Island Marine Reserve. Alternatively visit Seafriends (T 09/422 6212, W www.seafriends.org.nz), a marine education centre, with an array of aquarium tanks recreating different Goat Island ecosystems about a kilometre along Goat Island Road; they also rent snorkelling gear and have a small café. Practicalities

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Without your own wheels, your only transport option is a taxi from Matakana (Matakabs, T 09/422 2244), or Warkworth (Warkworth Taxi & Minibus Charters, T 09/425 0000). Facilities are limited once you get here. You can stay at the welcoming Goat Island Camping & Accommodation (T 09/422 6185, W www.goatislandcamping.co.nz; camping $16, cabins & on-site caravans 2 ), about 500m back from the reserve on the way to Goat Island, which has great bay views, plus snorkel gear rental. The Leigh Sawmill Café, 142 Pakiri Rd (T 09/422 6019, W www.sawmillcafe.co.nz; March–Christmas Thurs–Sun), has five spacious en-suite doubles (5 ), two dorms ($25) and a communal kitchen. Its vast sawmill has been sensitively converted into a smart café/bar (summer daily; winter closed Thurs–Sun) serving fine gourmet pizzas and beers brewed on site; weekends typically draw touring bands. The best chippy around is Leigh Fish and Chips, Cumberland Street (closed Mon–Wed except during school holidays).

Pakiri

Back on SH1 and heading north, your next chance to turn off towards the coast is at the small roadside settlement of TE HANA, 4km north of Wellsford. Here you’ll find The Arts Factory (T 09/423 8069, W www.artprimitiveandmodern .com; 9am–5pm Sat–Sun & by appointment), an innovative gallery specializing in work by Maori artists. From here it is 20km along winding country roads to tiny Mangawhai, where you should stop at the A Smashed Pipi, 40 Moir St (T 09/431 4847; gallery daily 9am–5.30pm), a gallery crammed with colourful glass, jewellery, woven flax, ceramics and funky clothing, with an attached café and bar (closed evenings Mon–Wed April–late Dec; mains $5–29). An organic fruit-and-veg market is held on Saturday mornings in the village hall on the corner of Moir and Insley streets. The road continues 3km north to meet the coast at Mangawhai Heads at the mouth of the Mangawhai Harbour, marked by holiday homes straggling over the hillsides behind a fine surf beach. Long a Kiwi summer-holiday favourite, Mangawhai Heads tends to be bypassed by outsiders due to its lack of specific attractions, but that’s part of the charm. There’s also the scenic Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway (2–3hr; closed Aug to mid-Oct for lambing). Walk north along the beach for fifteen minutes then follow the orange markers up through bush-backed farmland along the top of the sea cliffs until the path winds back down to the beach. Provided the tide is below half, you can return along the beach through a small rock arch.

| The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

Mangawhai Heads and around

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North of Leigh, a sealed road continues 10km to the tiny community of Pakiri, with a long, dune-backed white surf beach. The main land-based attraction here is horse-riding with the highly professional Pakiri Beach Horse Riding, Rahuikiri Road, Pakiri Beach (T 09/422 6275, W www .horseride-nz.co.nz), who operate year-round and run a pleasant café. Rides range from a brief jaunt along the beach and through a pohutukawa glade, to multiday safaris through stands of native bush and along the tops of sea cliffs. Most people go for short rides (2hr for $85, half-day for $120), but it’s worth considering the excellent overnight trips ($575) or even an epic seven-day Coast-to-Coast ride (see p.67). There’s good reason to stay over in the farm’s range of attractive on-site accommodation: riverside backpacker cabins ($25), self-contained beachside cabins for two (6 ), and a luxurious four-bedroom beach house from $500 a day for up to eight. Campers can stay nearby at the well-sited, if rather haphazardly run, Pakiri Beach Holiday Park, Pakiri River Road (T 09/422 6199, W www.pakiriholidaypark.co.nz; camping $15, dorms $25, cabins 2 , en-suite cabins 3 , flats 4 , cottages 5 ) which also has a luxury beachfront lodge sleeping four (8 plus $50 per extra adult).

Practicalities

For hostel accommodation head straight for Coastal Cow Backpackers, 299 Molesworth Drive (T 09/431 5444; dorms $23, rooms 2 ), in a pleasant modern house. There’s far more luxury at Milestone Cottages by the Sea, 27 Moir Point Rd (T 09/431 4018, W www.milestonecottages.co.nz; studio 5 , cottages 6 – 8 ), a cluster of beautiful cottages amid sumptuous organic gardens and coastal bush within sight of the sea; it’s just a short walk to a secluded estuary beach. All are self-catering including a BBQ deck, and there’s free use of a lap pool and kayaks.

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At Mangawhai Heads most of the town’s shops and cafés are in the Wood Street shopping complex, off Molesworth Drive, though it is also worth seeking out the licensed Naja Garden Café, 5 Molesworth Drive (T 09/431 4111) at a garden centre, which makes a fine stop for a coffee and breakfast, or gourmet sandwiches; phone ahead to ask if they’ll be open for dinner as hours vary. NORTHL AND

Lang’s Beach and Waipu Cove

| The Kowhai Coast to Bream Bay

Surfing is superb at both Lang’s Beach, 12km north of Mangawhai Heads, and, a further 4km north, at WAIPU COVE – a cluster of houses and the excellent Cove Café (T 09/432 0323; kitchen closes 8.30pm) by a sweeping stretch of Bream Bay. Accommodation is limited but right by the beach. There’s camping at Camp Waipu Cove, 897 Cove Rd (T 09/432 0410, W www.campwaipucove .com; $25 per tent, cabins 2 ), and a dozen stylish, state-of-the-art poolside apartments at the A Waipu Cove Resort, 891 Cove Rd (T 09/432 0348, W www .waipucoveresort.co.nz; 5 ). Or go for the modern cottages at the secluded Waipu Cove Cottages and Camping, 685 Cove Rd (T 09/432 0851, E covecottages@xtra .co.nz; $30 per tent; rooms 2 , cottages 4 – 5 ), with free use of dinghies. Half a kilometre further on, the Stone House (T 09/432 0432 E stonehousewaipu @xtra.co.nz; dorms $20, cabins & cottages 4) occupies a couple of lovely buildings with grounds running down to the estuary, which you can explore with the free dinghy and kayaks.

Waipu and around The increasingly chic yet delightfully quirky village of WAIPU is dominated by an Aberdeen granite monument surmounted by a Scottish lion. It’s a historic nod to the settlers who followed charismatic preacher, the Reverend Norman McLeod, here in the mid-1800s by way of Nova Scotia, until famine and a series of harsh winters drove them here, where they formed a strict, self-contained Calvinist community built on farming and forestry. The settlers’ Scottish history and genealogy is recounted in the Waipu Museum on the main street (daily 9.30am–4.30pm; $5) through a well-laid-out exhibition of settlers’ photos and personal effects; and during the Highland Games (W www.highlandgames.co .nz; New Year’s Day), in which competitors heft large stones and toss cabers and sheaves in the Caledonian Park. Nearby, the Waipu Caves make a popular excursion to view one of the longest stalagmites in New Zealand in a twohundred-metre glow-worm-filled passage, in the limestone country 16km to the northwest. Obtain a free map from the visitor centre in the Waipu Museum, wear old clothes and good footwear, and take a couple of good torches per person. The cave is signposted from Waipu Caves Road and is impenetrable after heavy rain; you’ll get muddy even in dry weather. North from Waipu, the road runs parallel to Bream Bay, with occasional turnings accessing the long white beach to the east. The best place to head to the sands is at Uretiti, 6km north of Waipu, where there’s a primitive DOC camping area ($7), with water and cold showers, and an adjacent unofficial naturist beach. Practicalities

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InterCity and Northliner buses drop off and pick up on request outside the liquor store on the main street, which also acts as a ticket agent (T 09/432 0225). A block away, the Waipu Museum contains the town’s visitor centre (daily 9.30am– 4.30pm; T 09/432 0746) and has Internet access. There are no banks or ATMs, but you can exchange traveller’s cheques and currency (Mon, Wed & Fri 9.30am–3pm only) at the kiosk next door to the liquor store on the main road.

Despite its prime gateway location to Whangarei Heads’ sweeping beaches and world-class diving around the Poor Knights Islands, Northland’s capital, WHANGAREI (pronounced Fahn-ga-RAY), remains refreshingly down to earth, with a laid-back local vibe and a complete absence of tourism overkill. The main focal point for visitors is the riverside Town Basin, where sleek yachts moor outside a small redeveloped settler-style shopping and restaurant complex. Elsewhere there’s a smattering of museums and rewarding walks, particularly the scenic track to Whangarei Falls.

| Whangarei and around

Whangarei and around

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There’s a better range of places to stay down the road at Waipu Cove, but you’ll find welcoming budget accommodation here at Waipu Wanderers, 25 St Mary’s Rd (T 09/432 0532, E [emailprotected]; four-bed dorms 23, rooms 1 ), which has beds in a separate house with its own kitchen and bathroom, within easy walking distance of the town centre. For tasty meals, try the longstanding A Pizza Barn, 2 Cove Rd (T 09/432 1011; closed Mon & Tues April–Nov) in Waipu’s former post office, serving wellpriced lunches and dinners (mains $13.50–18), including pizzas topped with gourmet ingredients such as brie, smoked salmon and fresh asparagus. Eat in the cosy corrugated iron and timber cabin dining room-bar, or in the garden room filled with surfboards and hibiscus flower candles; and peek inside the toilets, which are a veritable art installation of ’70s kitsch. Alternatively, the contemporary Artform Restaurant, at the corner of South and Cove roads (T 09/432 0280), has cutting-edge artworks and inventive cuisine (mains $23–28).

Arrival and information No passenger trains make it this far. InterCity and Northliner buses pull up on Bank Street, the hub of the skeletal local town service that runs frequently on weekdays, slightly less so on Saturday, and not at all on Sunday. Daily flights from Auckland, and five flights weekly from Great Barrier Island arrive at Onerahi Airport, 5km east of town and linked to Whangarei by local bus and two shuttle taxi firms – Kiwi Carlton Cabs (T 0800/438 4444) and A1 Shuttle (T 0800/483 3377). The main i-SITE visitor centre lies 2km south of town on the main route from Auckland at 92 Otaika Rd (Christmas–Jan daily 8.30am–6.30pm; Feb–Christmas Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; T 09/438 1079, W www.whangareinz.com), and there’s a more central satellite office in the foyer of Chapham’s Clocks, Town Basin (daily 9am–5pm; T 09/438 3993); both have Internet access. The DOC office (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; T 09/430 2470) is at 149 Bank St.

Accommodation Accommodation in Whangarei is seldom hard to find and prices are reasonable. Hotels, motels and B&Bs Central Court Motel 54 Otaika Rd T0800/990 000, Wwww.centralcourtmotel.co.nz. Ageing but decent budget motel close to the visitor centre with a free spa and cheap sauna. Basic units 3, kitchen units 4

Graelyn Villa 166 Kiripaka Rd, Tikipunga T09/437 7532, Wwww.graelynvilla.co.nz. Three pretty en-suite rooms in a hundred-year-old villa with a latticed veranda amid lush rose gardens in a tranquil setting close to Whangarei Falls. 5

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relaxed B&B around 25min drive east of Whangarei surrounded by bush and overlooking the harbour. You get a spacious s/c apartment and meals can be provided. 4

Hostels and campsites Bunkdown Lodge 23 Otaika Rd T09/438 8886, W www.bunkdownlodge.co.nz. A spacious, low-key

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The Town

| Whangarei and around

Whangarei Falls Holiday Park & Backpackers Ngunguru Rd at Tikipunga, 6km from town near Whangarei Falls T0800/227 222, Wwww .whangareifalls.co.nz. On the edge of the countryside, and with a pool and spa. Camping $13, dorms $18, cabins 1 Whangarei Top 10 Holiday Park 24 Mair St T0800/455 488, Wwww.whangareitop10.co.nz. Small and tranquil site in a pretty setting 2km north of town with a wide range of accommodation. Camping $15, cabins 2 , en-suite cabins & s/c units 4 YHA Whangarei 52 Punga Grove Ave T09/438 8954, [emailprotected]. Intimate, sociable hostel a steep 15min walk from the centre of Whangarei, with expansive views over town from several rooms, and glow-worms a short walk away in the bush (torches available). Accommodation is in glass-fronted cabins and four- and six-bed dorms and there’s Wi-Fi. Reception closed noon–5pm. Dorms $25, rooms 2

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hostel in a pretty 1903 villa, with cheap bike rental. There are two kitchens, dorm beds, four-shares, twins and doubles, with free tea and coffee and access to a heap of videos. Staff go out of their way to help, and also offer lessons in portraiture. Dorms $20, linen hire $2, rooms 1 – 2 Little Earth Lodge 85 Abbey Caves Rd T09/430 6562, W www.littleearthlodge.co.nz. Tucked into a pastoral valley 7km northeast of Whangarei, close to Abbey Caves. Free bikes, a DVD lounge, and camping by arrangement. Call ahead to check on winter closures. Dorms $26, rooms 2 Treasure Island Motor Camp Pataua South T 09/436 2390, W www.treasureislandnz.co.nz. Situated just 75m from one of New Zealand’s best surf beaches about 30min drive east of Whangarei. Incredibly cheap powered sites cost the same as unpowered, and there’s a general store, takeaway and bakery serving coffee and croissants. It’s treasured by in-the-know Kiwis; book well ahead for high summer. Camping $12.

Whangarei’s most appealing features are its peaceful parks and easy walks within a few minutes of the town, the best of which are outlined in the free Whangarei Walks leaflet, from the visitor centre. Extensive views over the harbour and town are the reward for climbing to the sheet-metal war memorial atop Mount Parihaka (240m), which can be approached by car along Memorial Drive or on foot along the steep Ross Track (40min ascent) from the end of Dundas Road. Central Whangarei

Based around an 1880s villa, the redeveloped Town Basin is a small, prettified zone of upmarket galleries, shops and restaurants. Call in at the kauri and fudge shops, or play with the giant chessboard pieces outside the Burning Issues Gallery (daily 10am–5pm; free), a glass and ceramics studio where you can watch glass-blowing. The main sight is Clapham’s Clocks (daily 9am–5pm; $8), a museum packed with 1500 clocks ranging from mechanisms taken out of church towers to cuckoo clocks. Outside is New Zealand’s largest sundial. Nearby, Whangarei’s oldest kauri villa, Reyburn House (Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat & Sun 1–4pm; free), hosts the Northland Society of Arts’ exhibition gallery, with monthly rotating exhibits. In the centre of town, don’t miss Tuatara Gallery, 29 Bank St (Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm, Sat 9am–2.30pm, plus Nov–March Sun 10am–3pm; free), a small gallery space focusing on works by emerging Maori artists, fronted by an inventive shop stocking Maori-designed and -influenced goods from contemporary clothing to fine jewellery and greenstone carving. Immediately west, the well-kept Cafler Park is pleasant for a stroll – head for the Rose Gardens and the adjacent Whangarei Art Museum (daily 9am–5pm; gold coin donation), which houses a small permanent collection of heritage and contemporary New Zealand art. A footbridge crosses the stream running through Cafler Park to the cool, restful Fernery Conservatory & Cacti House, First Avenue (daily 10am–4pm; free), sheltering the country’s largest public collection of native

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ferns. From here, it’s ten minutes’ walk but a step back in time to the Craft Quarry artists’ co-operative, Selwyn Avenue (daily 10am–4pm; free), a focus for the local vibrant crafts community. You’re free to wander among shacks built from adobe, timber and corrugated iron and watch the artisans at work.

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Clarke Homestead, Whangarei Museum and the Native Bird Recovery Centre

| Whangarei and around

There is a collection of museums at the Whangarei Heritage Park, 6km southwest of Whangarei on SH14 in Maunu (daily 10am–4pm; $10 combined ticket only). Clarke Homestead, a rare example of an unrestored original homestead, was built in 1886 for a Scottish doctor, Alexander Clarke.The house was at its most vibrant in the 1930s, when Alexander’s son hosted high-society parties here, and much of what you see dates from that era. The Whangarei Museum, housed in a modern building in the homestead grounds, has an intriguing selection of objects relating to local history, flora and fauna and a small Maori collection. The prize exhibit is the waka tupapuka, a sixteenthcentury wooden funerary chest decorated with bird-form carvings. The museum’s Kiwi House is one of the best of its kind, well laid out and with clear views of the birds. The adjacent Whangarei Native Bird Recovery Centre (Mon–Fri 10.30am–4.30pm; gold coin donation) attempts to rehabilitate birds that have been damaged in some way and can’t fend for themselves. The star attraction is Woof-Woof the tui, who mimics his keeper perfectly and whistles Pop Goes the Weasel. Whangarei Falls, the Kauri Park and Abbey Caves

A broad curtain of water cascades over a twenty-six-metre basalt ridge into a popular swimming hole at Whangarei Falls, 5km northeast of the town centre. Kamo-bound buses pass close by, but the nicest way to get here is to walk along a bushland walking trail following the Hatea River (90min one way) from the Parihaka Scenic Reserve on the opposite shore from the Town Basin – the visitor centre has a route map. A couple of kilometres before Whangarei Falls, Whareora Road branches off 1.5km to the A. H. Reed Memorial Kauri Park, where shady paths through native bush pass 500-year-old kauri trees – look out for the ten-minute Alexander Walk, which links with a short, sinuous canopy boardwalk high across a creek before reaching some fine kauri. From the Elizabeth track it is possible to link up with the trail along the Hatea River to Whangarei Falls (30min one way). Accessed from Whareora Road, the fluted and weather-worn limestone formations of Abbey Caves (unrestricted access) have stalactites and stalagmites in abundance, as well as glow-worms. Armed with a torch plus a moderate level of fitness you can explore them at leisure. A little scrambling is required to get into the first, Organ Cave, where you can walk a couple of hundred metres along an underground stream. Middle Cave and Ivy Cave are badly signposted but, once found, are also worth exploring. The owners of Bunkdown Lodge can provide guidance to guests, as can Little Earth Lodge, next to the caves (see p.177).

Eating and drinking 178

Cafés and restaurants cluster around the Town Basin, with some emerging hotspots in the city centre. Pak ’n’ Save, on the corner of Robert and Carruth streets, has the cheapest groceries. For details of live music gigs, check out Tuesday’s The Leader newspaper.

| Whangarei and around

switched to DJ use on dance nights. The bistro menu offers more than just basic bar food and there’s a $6 Meal Steal (Tues–Sat; lunch & dinner). Deluca Café 6 Rust Ave. Whangarei’s best bet for breakfast – from home-made muesli or buttermilk pancake stacks to full-blown fry-ups ($9–17), in sleek white surrounds with moulded plastic seats and ’70s-inspired wallpaper. Closed Sun. Indian Aroma 23 Vine St T09/438 5005. Outstanding curries, including plenty of vegetarian options like a creamy butter Paneer (mains $11.90–16.50), to eat in or take away. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily. Killer Prawn 28 Bank St W www.killerprawn .co.nz. Conservatory-style bar and seafood restaurant; prawns served every which way (such as in tomato and rosemary broth, with dipping bread) are the speciality. Light snacks start at $7, enormous mains at $31. Closed Sun. Mokaba Town Basin. The pick of Town Basin’s cafés, with outside seating overlooking the yachts, decent coffee, cool music and fresh, healthy fare (mains $12–16.50).

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À Deco 70 Kamo Rd T09/459 4957. Classy linen and crystal-ware service in a lovely Art Deco home 2km north of the centre. Easily worth the journey for exquisite meals that might start with mushroom risotto with aged parmesan and white trufﬂe foam ($13), followed by steamed Northland ﬂounder with aniseed bisque (mains $23–34). There’s also a ﬁvecourse tasting menu ($75) with matched wines ($115). Closed Sun & Mon. Bob 29 Bank St. Airy terrazzo and polished concrete deli-café that does proper espresso, scrumptious warm berry-ﬁlled pinwheels, imaginative lunch mains ($14–17) and, though it’s open daytimes only, a lush choice of cocktails. Bogart’s 84 Cameron St. Easy-going, licensed dinner restaurant that’s lively at weekends and best value for its gourmet pizzas (from $17). Brauhaus Frings 104 Lower Dent St Wwww.frings .co.nz. Welcoming micro-brewery and small bar. Also good bar food, plus regular live music at weekends. Caffeine 4 Water St. Contemporary café with the best coffee in town, tasty mufﬁns and wraps plus seasonal lunch mains (around $14–16.50). Danger Danger 37 Vine St. Kickin’ bar that boasts the biggest sports screen in Northland, which is

Around Whangarei It’s worth hanging around Whangarei to explore the surrounding area, particularly to the east and north of the town where craggy, weathered remains of ancient volcanoes abut the sea. Southeast of the town, Whangarei Heads is the district’s volcanic heartland where dramatic walks follow the coast to calm harbour beaches and windswept coastal strands.To the northeast, Tutukaka acts as the base for dive trips to the undersea wonderland around the Poor Knights Islands. The only public transport is from Whangarei to Tutukaka with MVS Shuttles (T 09/438 9912; $15 each way), which are coordinated with dive trip departure and return times. Whangarei Heads

The winding road around the northern side of Whangarei Harbour runs 35km southeast to Whangarei Heads, a catch-all name for a series of small, residential beach communities scattered around jagged volcanic outcrops that terminate at Bream Head, the northern limit of Bream Bay. Numerous attractive bays provide safe swimming – McLeod Bay in particular – but otherwise there’s no reason to stop until the road leaves the harbour and climbs to a saddle at the start of an excellent, signposted walk (3km return; 2hr–2hr 30min; 200m ascent) up the 430-metre Mount Manaia, crowned with five eroded pinnacles shrouded in legend. One story tells of a jealous dispute between Chief Manaia (whose pa stood atop Mount Manaia), and the lesser chief, Hautatu (from across the water at Marsden Point) who was married to the beautiful Pito. Hautatu was sent away on a raid, leaving the coast clear for Manaia to steal Pito. Hautatu returned and gave chase to Manaia, his two children and Pito across the hilltop when all five were struck by lightning, leaving the figures petrified on the summit. These pinnacles remain tapu, but you can climb to their base through native bush, passing fine viewpoints.

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| Whangarei and around

Beyond Mount Manaia, the road runs for 5km to Urquharts Bay, where a short walk (20min each way) leads to the white-sand Smugglers Cove. A longer trail (3hr return) continues to the small and pebbly beach of Peach Cove, which has a hut ($10; book through Whangarei DOC T 09/430 2133). Very keen walkers could press on to Ocean Beach (5hr one way), a wild white-sand surf beach that’s also accessible by road. Bring provisions, as there are no shops, and little shade.These walks are described in DOC’s Whangarei District Walks leaflet, available from the visitor centres and the DOC office. There are also sweeping surf beaches at Pataua South, further north along the heads and also reachable by car, with a footbridge over the estuary and dunes to the ocean. You’ll also find a smattering of shops here. Check with the visitor centre for updates on the limited summertime bus service to the beaches. Panoramic views of Whangarei Heads are best seen by skydiving. Tandem jumps with Ballistic Blondes (T 021 519 577, W www.skydiveballisticblondes .co.nz) start from $200 including pick-up from accommodation around Whangarei. Tutukaka and the Poor Knights

Boats ply the waters from the tiny but growing village of TUTUKAKA – set on a beautiful, deeply incised harbour 30km northeast of Whangarei – for one of the world’s premier dive locations, the Poor Knights Islands Marine Reserve, 25km offshore. The warm East Auckland current swirling around Cape Reinga and the lack of run-off from the land combine to create visibility approaching 30m most of the year, though in spring (roughly Oct–Dec) plankton can reduce it to 15–20m.The clear waters are home to New Zealand’s most diverse range of sea life, including a few subtropical species found nowhere else, as well as a striking underwater landscape of near-vertical rock faces that drop almost 100m through a labyrinth of caves, fissures and rock arches teeming with rainbow-coloured fish, crabs, soft corals, kelp forests and shellfish.The Poor Knights lie along the migratory routes of a number of whale species, so blue, humpback, sei and minke whales, as well as dolphins, are not uncommon. The waters north and south of the reserve are home to two navy wrecks.The survey ship HMNZS Tui was sunk in 1999 to form an artificial reef, and it was so popular with divers and marine life that the obsolete frigate Waikato followed two years later. Practicalities

The only amenities around the harbour at Tutukaka are restaurants, most notably the Schnappa Rock Café, Marina Road (T 09/434 3774; daily 8am–late), a groovy bar/restaurant turning out a tempting range of dishes (mains $22– 32.50), including vegetarian, as well as bar snacks; it’s buzzing with divers, and it always pays to book ahead for dinner in summer. Local accommodation is mostly on the headland just south of Tutukaka and accessed along Tutukaka Block Road, or 5km back towards Whangarei in NGUNGURU, which is strung along an attractive, sandy estuary that’s fine for swimming if you dodge the jet skis. Accommodation

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Malibu Mal’s Tutukaka Block Rd, Kowharewa Bay T09/434 3450 Wwww.malibumals.co.nz. Diving groups are welcome at the two spacious self-catering units (one sleeping four, the other six) in a secluded garden 5min drive from Tutukaka Marina. 3

Paciﬁc Rendezvous Motel Rd, off the Tutukaka Block Rd T0800/999 800, W www.oceanresort .co.nz. Fabulously sited on the peninsula that forms the southern arm of Tutukaka’s harbour, offering tranquil s/c suites and apartments, as well as chalets with decks overlooking the ocean. 6

W www.tutukaka-holidaypark.co.nz. In a pretty valley that’s a 2min walk from the harbour, this convenient site offers camping ($12–14), dorms ($20) and a variety of cabins (2 ) and ﬂats sleeping up to six people. 4

Angling

| Whangarei and around

Free-ranging species such as marlin, shark and tuna that stray outside the protected Poor Knights Reserve are picked off by big-game anglers from December to May. Anglers wanting to rent a quarter-share of a charter gamefishing boat for the day should expect to pay $250 or more: for a list of operators contact the Whangarei Deep Sea Anglers Club (daily 8am–6pm during season; T 09/434 3818, W www.sportfishing.co.nz).

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Sands Motel Tutukaka Block Rd, 4km off the highway T09/434 3747, Wwww.sandsmotel .co.nz. Right beside the sands of Whangaumu Bay, this breezy motel offers one-and two-bedroom units. 4 Tutukaka Holiday Park Matapouri Rd, just around the corner from the harbour T09/434 3938,

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boat off the Poor Knights Islands

Diving and snorkelling

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| Whangarei and around

You’ll need prior diving experience to sample the best the Poor Knights have to offer, but there’s still plenty for novices and snorkellers. Several companies operate daily trips in the main season (Nov–April), and usually, at least one goes out most days the rest of the year. Boats leave from Tutukaka with most outfits picking up from backpackers in Whangarei at no extra charge. They offer broadly the same deal, with a full day out including two dives and a quick look around the Poor Knights coast. The largest operator is the reliable Dive Tutukaka, Marina Road, Tutukaka (T 0800/288 882, W www.diving.co.nz), who offer Poor Knights trips ($125; including gear $209) on one of several boats, so you are typically with similarly skilled divers. Snorkellers and sightseers ($119) are welcome, and everyone can use the on-board kayaks. Full-day dive trips onto the two wrecks cost the same. Firsttime divers can try a resort dive ($275) with full gear and one-to-one instruction; while a five-day PADI open-water dive qualification will cost $595. Boat trips

Dive Tutukaka run a fast boat on the Perfect Day trip (5hr, $119), which zips you out for a look around the Poor Knights Islands then deep into Rikoriko Cave which penetrates 130m into the island. This is claimed to be the world’s largest sea cave, and was formed 10 million years ago when a massive gas bubble got trapped during the volcanic formation of the islands. There’s also time for snorkelling and kayaking. For a more leisurely cruise, Ocean Blue Adventures (T 09/434 3678, W www .oceanblue.co.nz) do overnight sailing trips out to the Poor Knights ($580 including at least 5 dives), and five-day trips ($1160 including at least 11 dives). Surﬁng

Tutukaka Surf Experience (W www.tutukakasurf.co.nz) run two-hour surfing lessons (group $60, private $90 including board and wetsuit hire) most mornings in summer, and on Saturdays and Sundays the rest of the year. North of Tutukaka

It’s a pleasant day-trip from Whangarei to the beachside holiday settlements north of Tutukaka for safe swimming in gorgeous sheltered bays. Favourites include the village of MATAPOURI, 6km north of Tutukaka, which backs onto a curving white-sand bay bounded by bushy headlands, and the pristine Whale Bay, signposted off Matapouri Road 1km further north and reached by a twenty-minute bushwalk. There are virtually no facilities along this stretch apart from a shop and takeaway at Matapouri.

From Tutukaka to the Bay of Islands The roads that access the coast around Tutukaka and Matapouri rejoin SH1 at Hikurangi 16km north of Whangarei. About 6km further north you have a choice of roads: both go to the Bay of Islands but approach from different directions. Carry straight on and you go direct to Paihia with opportunities for side trips to the Maori redoubt of Ruapekapeka Pa, and the Hundertwasser toilets at Kawakawa. Turn right along Old Russell Road and you twist towards the coast on the tar-sealed but windy back road to Russell. 182

The direct route: along SH1

Sticking with SH1, a sign 17km north of Hikurangi directs you 5km northeast to Ruapekapeka Pa (unrestricted access; free), the site of the final battle in the

The direct route follows SH1 15km north of the Ruapekapeka junction to the small town of KAWAKAWA, where the only reason to stop is to visit its celebrated toilets on the main road and signposted from SH1. These works of art were created in 1997 by the reclusive Austrian émigré Friedrich Hundertwasser. Painter, architect, ecologist and philosopher, Hundertwasser made Kawakawa his home from 1975 until his death in 2000, aged 71. The ceramic columns supporting the entrance hint at the interior’s complex use of broken tiles, coloured bottles and found objects such as the old hinges on the wrought-iron doors. A steady trickle of visitors take a peek in both the Gents and the Ladies after suitable warning. The columns are echoed across the road at the Grass Hut, 37 Gillies St, a quality gift shop selling Hundertwasser prints and cards. For eating, try the central Trainspotters Café, 39 Gilles St; or the Historic Fallowfield Café, SH1 3km north toward Paihia (closed Mon & July–Sept), in a lovely 1894 kauri villa surrounded by mature gardens, where you can sit on the veranda to tuck into light meals and delicious cakes (some gluten-free) washed down with fresh lemonade and leaf teas made with filtered rainwater. From here it’s another 14km to Paihia.

| Whangarei and around

Kawakawa

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War of the North in 1846. Hone Heke’s repeated flagpole felling in Russell (see p.196) precipitated nine months of fighting during which Maori learnt to adapt their pa defences to cope with British firepower.The apotheosis of this development is Ruapekapeka, the “Bat’s Nest”. Its hilltop setting, double row of totara palisades and labyrinth of trenches and interconnecting tunnels helped Hone Heke and his warriors defend the site, despite being heavily outgunned and outnumbered three to one. After ten days of bombardment the British attacked the pa but their victory was a hollow one; when Heke’s uncle, Kawiti, offered New Zealand’s new governor, George Grey, a truce saying “Mehe mea kua mutukoe” (“If you have had enough, I have had enough”), Grey replied “Kuamutu ahau” (“I have had enough”). The War of the North was over. A modern carved gateway marks the entrance to the pa site where trench lines are clearly visible and large holes indicate at bunkers linking underground passages. There’s even a small cannon pointing back at the British position.

The back road to Russell: Whangaruru Harbour and the Cape Brett Track

With time on your hands, the most scenic way to approach the Bay of Islands is along Old Russell Road, which spurs off SH1 towards the coast. The narrow and winding seventy-five kilometre run to Russell takes around two hours, but you can spin it out over a lot longer, admiring the wonderful coastline around the Whangaruru Harbour, stopping for swims at numerous gorgeous bays, and perhaps a short walk in the mixed kauri forest of the Ngaiotonga Scenic Reserve. Leaving SH1 you travel through 14km of farmland before reaching The Gallery Helena Bay Hill (T 09/433 9616, W www.galleryhelenabay.co.nz), an imaginative gallery coupled with a great daytime café (closed June–Aug) with views across bush-clad hills down to Helena Bay. Stop if you’re the slightest bit peckish as there’s nowhere much to eat between here and Russell, sixty slow kilometres away. The first settlement is 11km on at OAKURA, where an island-studded bay is backed by a gently curving beach and a cluster of holiday homes. Not a great deal happens here, but that is its appeal, and there’s no shortage of places to swim and walk.

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The Cape Brett Track

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| Whangarei and around 184

Northland’s best overnight tramp is the challenging but rewarding Cape Brett Track (20km each way; 6–8hr) which follows the hilly ridge along the centre of the peninsula with sea occasionally visible on both sides – a route outlined in DOC’s Cape Brett leaﬂet. The track starts in Rawhiti (see below) and crosses private land, so all walkers must pay a track fee ($30, payable in advance). The Cape Brett lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula is now automatic but was once tended by keepers who lived in a house that now operates as a DOC hut ($23 beds; $12, annual hut pass not valid; booking required through DOC in Russell), with gas cooking stove but no cooking utensils. The hut is in a fabulous location surrounded by sea and views out to the Hole in the Rock, so you might want to stay more than one night. You don’t need to walk the track in both directions: Cape Brett Walkways/Kiwi Eco Tours (T 09/403 8823, Wwww.capebrettwalks.co.nz) runs a water taxi service between Rawhiti and Cape Brett ($80 per person each way, minimum 4 people). Occasionally it is too rough for boats to drop off or pick up near the Cape Brett hut, but you can get dropped off at Deep Water Cove ($40 per person) two hours’ walk away from the hut. Cape Brett Walkways also give you the opportunity to tackle part of the Cape Brett Track as a one-day walk (6hr; $110) which entails a cruise from Russell or Paihia to the Cape Brett hut, an unguided walk to Deep Water Cove, then a cruise back with time for lunch and a swim. You can learn more about the bush and Maori stories of the area on a guided single group charter ($325 per person) with longer to appreciate the area and a crayﬁsh lunch.

Along the next stretch of road, at Coast Road Farm, 12km north of Oakura (T 09/433 6894, W www.thefarm.co.nz; camping $15, dorms $21, rooms and en suites 2 ) you can get involved with dairy farm life, ride horses or motorbikes, go kayaking and much more. Breakfast is available for $6, lunch for $7, and dinner by arrangement for $12. At Ngaiotonga, a further 2km north, a sealed side road runs 8km through hilly farmland to the broad sweep of Bland Bay with great beaches on both sides of an isthmus. Continue 2km beyond Bland Bay to reach Whangaruru North Head Scenic Reserve, with yet more lovely beaches, fine walks around the end of the peninsula and a DOC campsite ($7; only July–Nov) with water and toilets. Tent sites are around a hundred metres from the parking area. Back on the coast road it is 7km north to a road junction where you turn left for Russell (25km further) and continue straight on for the scattered and predominantly Maori village of Rawhiti, the start of the Cape Brett Track (see box above). Just 1km along the Rawhiti road there’s shorter, easier walking in the form of the Whangamumu Track (4km each way; 1hr; 150m ascent), a forest path which crosses the base of the Cape Brett Peninsula to a lovely beach. Here you can see the remains of a whaling station which closed in 1940. Following the road towards Russell for 11km you’ll come across a signposted side road to some fine stands of kauri. These can be visited on the Twin Bole Kauri Walk (around 200m; 5min), Ngaiotonga Kauri Grove Walk (1km; 20min), and the Ngaiotonga–Russell Forest Walkway (21km; 9hr); the last is best tackled over two days armed with a tent (more information is available from DOC in Russell, see p.196).

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| The Bay of Islands

THE BAY OF ISLANDS, 240km north of Auckland, lures visitors to its beautiful coastal scenery, scattered islands and clear blue waters. There are other equally stunning spots along the Northland coast, such as the Whangaroa and Hokianga harbours, but what sets the bay apart is the ease with which you can get out among the islands, and its pivotal history. This was the cradle of European settlement in New Zealand, a fact abundantly testified to by the bay’s churches, mission stations and orchards. It’s also a focal point for Maori because of the Treaty of Waitangi (see box, p.194) still, despite its limitations, New Zealand’s most important legal document. Perhaps surprisingly, much of your time in the Bay of Islands will be spent on the mainland, as there are no settlements on the islands. Most visitors base themselves in beachside Paihia, which is well set up to deal with the hordes who come here for the various cruises and excursions, as well as being the closest town to the Treaty House at Waitangi. The compact town of Russell, a couple of kilometres across the bay by passenger ferry is prettier and almost equally as convenient for cruises.To the northwest, away from the bay itself, Kerikeri is intimately entwined with the area’s early missionary history, while Waimate North, inland to the west, was another important mission site and still has its Mission House. As the main tourist centre in Northland, the Bay of Islands acts as a staging post for forays further north, in particular for day-long bus tours to Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach (see box, p.214) – arduous affairs lasting eleven hours, most of them spent stuck inside the vehicle.You’re better off making your way up to Mangonui, Kaitaia or Ahipara and taking a trip from there, though if time is short you can take your pick from a wide range of Paihia-based excursions, including scenic flights over Northland. Some history

A warm climate, abundant seafood and deep, sheltered harbours all contributed to dense pre-European Maori settlement in the Bay of Islands, with many a headland supporting a pa. The bay also appealed to Captain Cook, who anchored here in 1769. Cook landed on Motuarohia Island at what became known as Cook’s Cove, where he forged generally good relations with the inhabitants. Three years later the French sailor Marion du Fresne, en route from Mauritius to Tahiti, became the first European to have sustained contact with Maori, though he fared less well when a misunderstanding, probably over tapu, led to his death, along with twenty-six of his crew. The French retaliated, destroying a pa and killing hundreds of Maori. Despite amicable relations between the local Ngapuhi Maori and Pakeha whalers in the early years of the nineteenth century, the situation gradually deteriorated. With increased contact, firearms, grog and Old World diseases spread and the fabric of Maori life began to break down, a process accelerated by the arrival in 1814 of Samuel Marsden, the first of many missionaries intent on turning Maori into Christians. In 1833, James Busby was sent as the “British Resident” to secure British interests and prevent the brutal treatment meted out to the Maori by whaling captains. Lacking armed back-up or judicial authority, he had little effect. The signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 brought effective policing yet heralded a decline in the importance of the Bay of Islands, as the capital moved from its original site of Kororareka (now Russell), first to Auckland and later to Wellington. In 1927 American writer Zane Grey came here to fish for striped and black marlin, making the area famous with his book The Angler’s El Dorado. Every

185

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186

summer since, the bay has seen game-fishing tournaments and glistening catches strung up on the jetties.

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| The Bay of Islands

The only island that accommodates overnight guests to date is Urupukapuka Island, where Zane Grey, author of best-selling westerns and avid hooker of marlin, set up a fishing resort at Otehei Bay. The resort largely burned down in 1973, but you can still stay in the accommodation units, which now operate as the Zane Grey Lodge (T 09/403 7009, W www.zanegrey.co.nz) with spartan dorms ($30), doubles (1 ), en suites (3 ), and a self-contained four-berth cottage (5 ) all sharing a fully equipped kitchen. Adjacent to the lodge, the Zane Grey restaurant is a stopping point for Fullers cruises (see below), which provide regular access to the island ($39). There are also basic DOC campsites (T 09/403 9005, booked through DOC at Russell, $8) in all except the western bays of the island and there are several Maori pa and terrace sites all over the island, which can be explored in a few hours by following signs on the island and DOC’s free Urupukapuka Island Archeological Walk leaflet. Of the other six large islands, by far the most popular is Motuarohia, more commonly known as Roberton Island after John Roberton, who moved here in 1839. The Department of Conservation manages the most dramatic central section, an isthmus almost severed by a pair of perfectly circular blue lagoons, where it has installed an undersea nature trail for snorkellers, waymarked by inscribed stainless-steel plaques. At the time of writing, DOC was planning to open a campsite on the wildlife sanctuary of Moturua, which has a network of walks through bush alive with spotted kiwi, saddlebacks and North Island robins – check with the DOC office in Russell for updates. Other sights that often feature on cruise itineraries include the Black Rocks, bare islets formed from columnar-jointed basalt – these rise only 10m out of the water but plummet a sheer 30m beneath. At the outer limit of the bay is the craggy peninsula of Cape Brett, named by Cook in 1769 after the then Lord of the Admiralty, Lord Piercy Brett. Cruises also regularly pass through the Hole in the Rock, a natural tunnel through Piercy Island, which is even more exciting when there’s a swell running.

Exploring the bay Unless you get out onto the water you’re missing the essence of the Bay of Islands. The vast majority of yachting, scuba diving, dolphin watching, kayaking and fishing trips start in Paihia, but all the major cruises and bay excursions also pick up from Russell wharf around fifteen minutes later. Occasionally there are no pick-ups available, but you can catch the frequent, inexpensive passenger ferry between Paihia and Russell (p.190). From December to March, when demand outstrips supply, everything should be booked a couple of days in advance. Most hotels and motels book these trips for you and hostels can usually arrange some sort of “backpacker” discount of around ten percent. Cruises Dolphin Discoveries T0800/365 744, W www .dolphinz.co.nz. The Discover the Bay trip on a fast catamaran (2 trips daily; 3hr 30min, $79) takes you to the Hole in the Rock and other sights on a ﬂexible route, allowing for wildlife spotting throughout the year.

Fullers T0800/653 339, Wwww.fboi.co.nz. Longstanding operator of large and stable craft. The leisurely Cream Trip is part of the Supercruise (daily Sept–May; June–Aug Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat; 6hr 15min; $82) and delivers groceries and mail to wharves all around the bay. It includes a visit to the

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For coverage of bus trips to Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga see p.214.

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| The Bay of Islands

Hole in the Rock and 90min at Otehei Bay. Their Hole in the Rock cruise (1–2 trips daily; 4hr; $77) speeds through the islands to Cape Brett and, when conditions permit, edges through the hole itself. Kings T 0800/222 979, Wwww.dolphincruises .co.nz. Family-run ﬁrm, running a Hole in the Rock Scenic Cruise (2 trips daily; 3hr; $77) which makes no island stops but includes dolphin and whale watching and an on-board Maori legend commentary. The Day in the Bay trip (Oct–May 1 daily; 6hr; $115) takes in the Hole in the Rock and an island stop of the captain’s choice plus the possibility of swimming with dolphins.

The Rock T 0800/762 2527, W www.rocktheboat .co.nz. Backpacker accommodation and activities aboard a former car ferry converted to sleep up to thirty. Board in the late afternoon and chug out to some gorgeous bays for ﬁshing, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, feasting on a big BBQ and then relaxing while someone plunks away on a guitar or the piano; arriving back around noon. Choose from six-berth dorms ($148) and private cabins ($168), all with sea views and all with dinner and breakfast included, but not drinks. Take a sleeping bag.

Fast boats Mack Attack T 0800/622 528, W www .mackattack.co.nz (4 trips daily in summer 2 trips daily in winter; 1hr 30min; $70). Open catamaran driven by 1320hp engines gives an adrenalinpumping blast out to the Hole in the Rock and back at up to 50 knots; it’s also the only boat that can take you right inside Cathedral Cave.

The Excitor T09/402 7020, W www.excitor.co.nz (5 trips daily in summer, 2 trips daily in winter; 90min; $77). Another catamaran that basically does the same thing.

Sailing and snorkelling

To combine sailing with snorkelling, join one of the smaller yachts which usually take less than a dozen passengers: competition is tight and the standards high, with all bringing snorkelling and fishing gear and typically going out for six hours and including lunch. See p.189 for trips focusing on dolphin watching and swimming. Carino T 09/402 8040, Wwww.sailingdolphins .co.nz. A large, fast, red catamaran based in Paihia, licensed to allow swimming with dolphins; $85, plus $5 for BBQ lunch. Ecocruz T0800/432 6278, Wwww.ecocruz.co.nz. A three-day sail on the twenty-two-metre twin-masted Manawanui, which takes up to twelve people around the Bay with the emphasis on appreciation of the natural environment. Excellent meals are included, along with use of kayaks, snorkel gear, ﬁshing tackle and a good deal of local knowledge and enthusiasm. Dorm bunk $495, double cabin $1150.

Gungha II T0800/478 900, Wwww .bayoﬁslandssailing.com. A twenty-metre yacht on which you can also beneﬁt from optional sailing tuition. $85, lunch included. R. Tucker Thompson T 0800/882537, W www .tucker.co.nz. A beautiful Northland-built schooner sails out on day-trips into the islands and anchors for a swim and BBQ lunch, taking up to twenty at a time. Daily late Oct–April; 6hr; $120 including morning tea with freshly baked scones and cream.

Scuba diving

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Dive HQ, Williams Road (T 0800/107 551, W www.divenz.com) is the main scuba-diving outfit and will take you out in the Bay of Islands, or the wrecks of the Rainbow Warrior (see p.206) and the Canterbury; all cost $205 for a twotank dive including gear.

Kayaking and waka paddling

Lack of experience is no impediment to kayaking in and around Paihia, as plenty of operators offer guided trips. If you want to go it alone, there are a couple of rental outfits to choose from.

Dolphin watching and swimming

Relatively warm water all year round and an abundance of marine mammals make the Bay of Islands a wonderful place for dolphin watching. You’ve around a 90 percent chance of seeing bottlenose and common dolphins in pretty much any season, orca from May to October and minke and Bryde’s whales from August to January. Be aware that swimming with dolphins is never a certainty, and swimming is forbidden when they have juveniles in tow (which can be any time of year). Generally your chances swimming with them are about 50 percent, but some (though not all) companies offer money back or a second trip if you miss out. These “raincheck” policies can vary according to the season; check with the visitor centre or direct with the operators when you book. Your best chance to see dolphins is on a cruise with one of the companies licensed to actively search for and swim with dolphins, but only eighteen people are allowed in the water at a time and since most trips carry around forty people in the peak season, you can expect to be in the water about a third of the time that the dolphins are about. Carino (see Sailing, p.188). A big catamaran that takes you on a day-trip around the islands, with a chance to swim with the dolphins if found in the right conditions. Dolphin Adventures T09/402 7421, Wwww .fboi.co.nz. Run by Fullers (see p.187) this 4hr trip includes the option of a stopover on Urupukapuka Island for an extra few hours if you take the early boat at 8am; $105. Dolphin Discoveries Marsden Rd, opposite the visitor centre T 0800/365 744, W www.dolphinz .co.nz. The pioneers of dolphin swimming in this

| The Bay of Islands

Island Kayaks at Bay Beach Hire T0800/611 440, Wwww.islandkayaking.co.nz. Operate all year, offering half-day ($55) and full-day ($90) trips exploring the inner islands and bays. Taiamai Tours 09/405 9990, W www .taiamaitours.co.nz. Paddle your own canoe Maori-style. You and up to a dozen others will get the full works – karakia (prayers), whaikorero (speechmaking), and learn how to handle a hoe (paddle) – before propelling the waka (canoe) around the bay, getting a real feel for the Maori sense of spirituality and afﬁnity with the land and sea. Daily at 10am & 1pm; 90min; $75.

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Bay Beach Hire South end of Paihia Beach T09/402 6078. Rents sit-on kayaks (single $10 per hr, $40/day; doubles $15/60), sea kayaks (singles $15/50; doubles $25/75), windsurfers ($25 per hr) and catamarans ($50 per hr). Also rents overnight allowing you to stay on Urupukapuka Island either camping or at Zane Grey Lodge (see p.187). Coastal Kayakers Waitangi Bridge T09/402 8105, W www.coastalkayakers.co.nz. Open all year, running a variety of trips from half-day paddles upstream to Haruru Falls ($55) and full-day trips ($90), to two-day guided camping excursions (Nov–June; $130). They also rent out kayaks for two or more people at a time ($10 per hr, $40/day).

area and sensitive to the needs of the dolphins; 4hr, $99. Dolphin Rendezvous (see p.208). Mangonuibased boat skippered by a local ﬁsherman, who welcomes all travellers including those with disabilities. Enquire about pick-ups from Paihia. November to mid-June only. Kings T 0800/222 979, W www.dolphincruises .co.nz. Dolphin watching is a feature of all their trips or you can swim with dolphins as part of their Day in the Bay cruise (see p.188).

Fishing

Fishing trips range from a line fishing for snapper through to big-game boats in search of marlin, shark, tuna and kingfish. Ask around and speak to the

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skippers to find a trip that suits; daily charter rates range around $90 for light tackle and $280 upwards for the big-game boats. Flights and parasailing

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Salt Air Marsden Rd, near the Maritime Building, Paihia T 0800/472 582, W www.saltair.co.nz. Small plane trips ($115 for 30min, $195 for 1hr to the Hole in the Rock) and 20min helicopter ﬂight (from $190, min 4 people).

Flying Kiwi Parasail based at Bay Beach Hire on Paihia waterfront T09/402 6078. 10–15min tandem or solo ﬂights from the back of a speedboat to around 250m ($75) or 350m ($85).

Horse-riding and quad biking

| The Bay of Islands

The Adventure Company Tirohanga Rd, near Kawakawa T 09/404 1142, Wwww .adventurecompany.co.nz. Professionally run horse

rides in small groups (90min; $55) and quad-biking tours (90min; $75) that climb rugged hill tracks to breathtaking views.

Paihia and Waitangi PAIHIA is where it all happens. Until the mid-1990s it consisted of little more than a fish and chip shop but it’s now a two-kilometre-long string of waterside motels, restaurants and holiday homes teeming with trip operators, backpacker hostels, party-oriented bars and hotels. Fortunately, Pahia’s low-rise development is sympathetic to its three beautiful, flat beachside bays looking towards Russell and the Bay of Islands, encircled by forested hills. A plaque outside the current St Paul’s Anglican Church on Marsden Road marks the spot where, in 1831, the northern chiefs petitioned the British Crown for a representative to establish law and order. In 1833 King William IV finally addressed their concerns by sending the first British resident, James Busby. Busby built a house on a promontory 2km north across the Waitangi River in WAITANGI – the scene some seven years later of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, which ceded the nation’s sovereignty to Britain in return for protection. Arrival, information and getting around

Northliner and InterCity buses arrive on the waterfront Marsden Road outside the Bay of Islands’ main i-SITE visitor centre (daily 8am–5pm, extended hours Oct–April; T 09/402 7345, E [emailprotected]), which has Internet access and books tours. The Bay of Islands airport is twenty-two kilometres northwest, near Kerikeri, receiving planes from Auckland, which are met by a shuttle bus ($50 one way). Paihia isn’t big, and everywhere is within walking distance. If you’ve got bags to carry, engage the services of the Paihia Tuk Tuk Shuttle Service, based outside the visitor centre (T 0274/866 071), who will pick up and drop off one

Paihia–Russell ferries

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Sticking to the highways Russell is almost 100km from Paihia, but drivers can shorten that to 15km by using the small vehicle ferry (7am–10pm; daily every 20min; car & driver $10 each way, pedestrians $1; buy your ticket on board) across the narrow Veronica Channel at OPUA, 6km south of Paihia. Foot passengers can take one of several passenger ferries (Oct–May 7am–10.30pm; June–Sept 7.30am–7pm; $6 each way) between the main wharves in Paihia and Russell, a ten to ﬁfteen minute journey.

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to six people pretty much anywhere in town for around $5 each and run up to Haruru Falls for around $10 each. Alternatively, you can rent good-quality mountain bikes from Bay Beach Hire, at the south end of Paihia Beach (T 09/402 6078; $15 a half-day, $20 per day, $25 overnight). Parking is difficult in high season; your best bet is the car park opposite the 4-square supermarket on Williams Road.

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Accommodation

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Paihia abounds in accommodation for all budgets though rates can be stratospheric during the couple of weeks after Christmas. B&Bs and homestays tend to vary their prices less than motels, and hostels maintain the same prices yearround. Motels and B&Bs are scattered all over but there is a central cluster in the streets opposite the wharf. Kings Road is a veritable backpackers’ village with a selection of generally excellent places. It is also worth considering spending a night on Urupukapuka Island (see p.187) or taking a backpacker-oriented overnight cruise on The Rock (see p.188). Hotels, motels and B&Bs

| The Bay of Islands

Abri 10 Bayview Rd T09/402 8003, Wwww .abri-accom.co.nz. Two high-standard individual modern studio apartments each sleeping two, in a pretty bush setting with great views over the town and bay from the sundecks. 8 Allegra House 39 Bayview Rd T09/402 7932, Wwww.allegra.co.nz. A choice of luxury B&B or s/c apartment in a big, light and modern house at the top of a hill, and all with stupendous views right out over the Bay of Islands. All are a/c, sport their own balconies and have access to a hot tub in native bush. B&B 5 , apartment 6 Bay Adventurer 28 Kings Rd T0800/112 127, W www.bayadventurer.co.nz. A kind of upmarket backpackers resort with apartments, all nicely laid out with an attractive pool, free bikes and free access to the nearby tennis courts. It is particularly good for its rooms and fully s/c studio apartments. You can order cooked and continental breakfasts. Dorms $20–25, rooms 2 , apartments 4 Bounty Inn Corner of Bayview & Selwyn rds T0800/472 444, Wwww.bountyinn.co.nz. Pleasant, central yet quiet motel, 100m from the beach and with ample off-street parking. Rooms without cooking facilities, and fully equipped motel units all come lined in timber with a sundeck or balcony. Rooms 5, units 6 Craicor 49 Kings Rd T 09/402 7882, Wwww .craicor-accom.co.nz. A couple of excellent-value self-catering apartments, both spacious, well kept and with limited sea views; plus an attractive double room. Continental breakfast can be supplied for $7.50.Double 5 , s/c apartments 6

Hostels

192

Captain Bob’s Beachhouse 44 Davis Crescent T 09/402 8668, E [emailprotected]. In Captain Bob’s absence, Marie runs a tight ship in this attractive, well-maintained and homely hostel away from the hubbub of Kings Rd. There are good sea views and a separate women’s dorm. Dorms $25, rooms 2 – 3 , apartment 3 The Mousetrap 11 Kings Rd T 09/402 8182, W www.mousetrap.co.nz. Welcoming, nautically themed, wood-panelled hostel that sets itself apart

from the other backpackers on this lively street. With rooms scattered all over the site, three small kitchens and a BBQ area it has an intimate feel, plus there’s free bike use and a decent sea view. Dorms $22–24, rooms 2 Peppertree Lodge 5 Kings Rd T09/402 6122, W www.peppertree.co.nz. High-standard central hostel with spacious eight-bunk dorms, four-bunk dorms with own bathroom, great en-suite doubles and a s/c ﬂat. Guests can make use of a tennis court, free good-quality bikes and kayaks, and there’s an excellent DVD library. Be sure to book ahead Oct–April. Dorms $23, rooms 3 , ﬂat 4 Pickled Parrot Grey’s Lane, off MacMurray Rd T0508 727 768 or 09/402 6222, Wwww .pickledparrot.co.nz. One of Paihia’s smaller and more relaxed hostels, tucked away in a peaceful spot with a lovely courtyard. Secluded tent sites; four- and six-bed dorms as well as singles, doubles and twins, all with free continental breakfast thrown in, plus free pick-ups, bikes and tennis racquets. Camping $16, dorms $23, double & twin rooms 2 YHA Paihia Corner of Kings & MacMurray rds T09/402 7487, [emailprotected]. Double-storey hostel around a series of sunny courtyards, with newly renovated kitchen facilities, plus Wi-Fi, that attracts a friendly mix of travellers including families and backpackers. Dorms $23–27, rooms 2

Campsites Beachside Holiday Park SH11, 3km south of Paihia T 09/402 7678, Wwww.beachsideholiday .co.nz. Small and peaceful waterside site with a range of cabins and units, as well as dinghies and kayaks for rent. Camping $12–16, cabins 2 , s/c units 3 Haruru Falls Resort Panorama Puketona Rd T0800/757 525, Wwww.harurufalls.co.nz. Fabulous location by the river with commanding views of Haruru Falls, 4km north of Paihia, offering riverside tent sites and motel units around a pool. The resort has outdoor games such as pétanque and volleyball, a BBQ, and its own restaurant bar, plus kayaks and pedalboats for rent; there’s a courtesy shuttle to Paihia. Camping $12–19, motel units 3

The Town

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

| The Bay of Islands

Crossing the bridge over the Waitangi River you enter the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where in 1840 Queen Victoria’s representative William Hobson and nearly fifty Maori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi (see box, p.194). It’s now home to the Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House (daily: Oct–March 9am–6pm; April–Sept 9am–5pm; $12; free for New Zealand citizens), the single most symbolic place in New Zealand for Maori and Pakeha alike, and a focal point for the modern nation’s struggle for identity. You can easily spend half a day here, taking in an audiovisual presentation that sets the historical framework, bolstered by a small exhibition of Maori artefacts, and perhaps a short daytime cultural performance or a guided tour (all $10), as well as daytime shows ($12), though most people give it around two hours then perhaps return in the evening for the Culture North Sound and Light Show (T 09/402 5990, W www.culturenorth.co.nz), a highly recommended contemporary approach to presenting Maori culture (Oct–March Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat 8pm; $45; book ahead), conducted inside the traditional meeting house. Over an hour and a quarter you’re introduced to an extended family as the stories of Maori life from the arrival of Kupe to the present day are enacted with verve mixing drama, song and dance with storytelling. Free pick-ups are available from Paihia. The Treaty House was built in Georgian colonial style in 1833–34. Its front windows look towards Russell over sweeping lawns, where marquees were erected on three significant occasions: in 1834, when Maori chiefs chose the Confederation of Tribes flag, which now flies on one yardarm of the central flagpole; the meeting a year later at which northern Maori leaders signed the Declaration of Independence of New Zealand; and, in 1840, the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi itself. The northern side of the lawn is flanked by the whare runanga, or Maori meeting house, built between 1934 and 1940. Though proposed by Bledisloe and northern Maori chiefs, the construction of the house was a co-operative effort between all Maori, and the interior carvings represent all iwi rather than the usual single tribe. A short audiovisual presentation explains key elements on the richly carved panels. Housed in a specially built shelter in the Treaty House grounds is the world’s largest war canoe (waka), the Ngatoki Matawhaorua, named after the vessel navigated by Kupe when he discovered Aotearoa. It’s an impressive boat, built over two years from two huge kauri by members of the five northern tribes and measuring over 35m in length. It has traditionally been launched each year on Waitangi Day, propelled by eighty warriors. Near the visitor centre is the excellent Waikokopu Café in a relaxing setting (see p.196). Westwards, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds extend beyond the Waitangi Golf Course to the scenic viewpoint atop Mount Bledisloe, reached by car 3km away. Two kilometres beyond that and accessed from the main road, are the Haruru (Big Noise) Falls, formed where the Waitangi River drops over a basalt lava flow. Though not that impressive by New Zealand standards, there’s

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Paihia is primarily a base for exploring the bay, and there are no sights in town itself. If you’d like to study some fine bone and pounamu (greenstone) carvings check out the Cabbage Tree counter in the Maritime Building. Fans of mangroves and estuarine scenery can tackle the gentle Paihia–Opua Coastal Walkway (6km; 90min–2hr one way), which wanders along the wave-cut platforms and the small bays in between.

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The Treaty of Waitangi

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The Treaty of Waitangi is the founding document of modern New Zealand, a touchstone for both Pakeha and Maori, and its implications permeate New Zealand society. Signed in 1840 between what were ostensibly two sovereign states – the United Kingdom and the United Tribes of New Zealand, plus other Maori leaders – the treaty remains central to New Zealand’s race relations. The Maori rights guaranteed by it have seldom been upheld, however, and the constant struggle for recognition continues.

The treaty at Waitangi

| The Bay of Islands

Motivated by a desire to staunch French expansion in the Paciﬁc, and a moral obligation on the Crown to protect Maori from rapacious land-grabbing by settlers, the British instructed naval captain William Hobson to negotiate the transfer of sovereignty with “the free and intelligent consent of the natives”, and to deal fairly with the Maori. Hobson, with the help of James Busby and others, drew up both the English Treaty and a Maori “translation”. On the face of it, the treaty is a straightforward document, but the complications of having two versions (see Contexts, p.879) and the implications of striking a deal between two peoples with widely differing views on land and resource ownership and usage have reverberated down the years. The treaty was unveiled on February 5, 1840, to a gathering of some 400 representatives of the ﬁve northern tribes in front of Busby’s residence in Waitangi. Presented as a contract between the chiefs and Queen Victoria – someone whose role was comprehensible in chieﬂy terms – the beneﬁts were ampliﬁed and the costs downplayed. As most chiefs didn’t understand English, they signed the Maori version of the treaty, which still has mana (goodwill) among Maori today.

The treaty after Waitangi The pattern set at Waitangi was repeated up and down the country, as seven copies of the treaty were dispatched to garner signatures and extend Crown authority over parts of the North Island that had not yet been covered, and the South Island. On May 21, before signed treaty copies had been returned, Hobson claimed New Zealand for Britain: the North Island on the grounds of cession by Maori, and the South Island by right of Cook’s “discovery”, as it was considered to be in terrorium nullis (without owners), despite a signiﬁcant Maori population. Maori fears were alerted from the start, and as the settler population grew and demand for land increased, successive governments passed laws that gradually stripped Maori of control over their affairs – actions which led to the New Zealand Wars of the 1860s (see Contexts, p.881). Over the decades, small concessions were made, but nothing signiﬁcant changed until 1973, when Waitangi Day (February 6) became an ofﬁcial national holiday. Around the same time, Maori groups, supported by a small band of Pakeha, began a campaign of direct action, increasingly disrupting commemorations, thereby alienating many Pakeha and splitting Maori allegiances between angry young urban Maori and the kaumatua (elders), who saw the actions as disrespectful to the ancestors and an affront to tradition. Many strands of Maori society were uniﬁed by the hikoi (march) to Waitangi to protest against the celebrations in 1985, a watershed year in which Paul Reeves was appointed New Zealand’s ﬁrst Maori Governor General and the Waitangi Tribunal for land reform was given some teeth. Protests have continued since as successive governments have vacillated over whether to attend the commemorations at Waitangi.

194

good swimming at their base. Haruru Falls are also reached from the Treaty House grounds via the very gentle Hutia Creek Mangrove Forest Boardwalk (2hr return) or on a guided kayak trip up the estuary and among the mangroves (see p.189).

Eating, drinking and entertainment

Bay of Islands Swordﬁsh Club Marsden Rd. Private club, overlooking the bay and welcoming visitors outside the peak summer season: just sign yourself in. Simple but good-value food is served from 6pm, and “Swordy’s” has some of the cheapest drinks in town. Beachhouse 16 Kings Rd. Lively all-day café and juice bar with seating out under the shade sail and a menu of varied breakfasts, panini, and gourmet burgers ($7–15). There’s the Sand Pit pool hall round the back, and live music most nights. Frank’s Marsden Rd. Chilled café, pizzeria and bar with good breakfasts, decent coffee and a wicked cocktail list. Only Seafood 40 Marsden Rd T 09/402 7444. Stylish restaurant located in an atmospheric villa and open nightly for seafood extravaganzas such

as rare yellowﬁn tuna with roasted langoustine (mains around $30). Darryl’s Dinner Cruise T0800/334 6637, W www.ddinner.co.nz. Convivial and leisurely cruise (2hr 30min, $78) from Paihia Wharf up the Waitangi River to Haruru Falls, where you tuck into prawns and mussels followed by T-bone steak, lamb and ﬁsh. Catch it for a good sunset and it is a great way to spend the evening. There’s a cash bar on board or BYO wine. Pipi Patch Bar 18 Kings Rd. Situated at Paihia’s branch of the Base backpacker chain and the liveliest bar at this end of town, always full of backpackers and locals out on the deck, often tucking into the nightly $10 BBQ and competing for trip giveaways. Pure Tastes 116 Marsden Rd T09/402 0003. Acclaimed chef Paul Jobin is at the helm of this ultra-ﬁne dining restaurant at the

| The Bay of Islands

Cafés, restaurants, bars and dinner cruises

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Paihia’s range of places to eat is unmatched anywhere in the Bay of Islands and competition keeps prices reasonable – wander around town and you’ll find any number of appealing restaurants and cafés, typically specializing in seafood. The restaurants are also good places to stick around for post prandial drinking, and there are several more raucous bars along Kings Road. Paihia’s winters are enlivened by two three-day festivals – country rock during the second weekend in May (W www.country-rock.co.nz), and jazz and blues, usually held during the second weekend in August (W www.jazz-blues.co.nz).

195 The

world’s largest war canoe, Waitangi

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oasis-like Paihia Beach Resort. Breakfasts such as French sourdough toast with caramelized apples ($16) will see you through to intricately prepared lunches (poolside in summer; mains around $20), but it comes into its own with dinner choices like black lacquer duck with green banana, chilli and lime ($33). Also tasting menus (four-course $65, ﬁve-course $75). Toast Selwyn Mall T 09/402 8684. Chic and somewhat hidden restaurant and bar that draws the cognoscenti for a cocktail on the banquettes,

one of their ﬁne gourmet pizzas (around $20), or simply to curl up in the corner with a liqueur coffee and a book. Waikokopu Café Treaty House Grounds, Waitangi T 09/402 6275. Outstanding daytime café accessed by a track through the rainforest and surrounded by picnic table-strewn lawns. Perfect for tucking into unusual and beautifully prepared breakfasts and lunches ($13.50– 18.50), plus an excellent range of cakes and great coffee. Licensed.

| The Bay of Islands

Russell The isolated location of RUSSELL – on a narrow peninsula with poor road but good sea access – gives this small hillside settlement an island ambience. In summer, however, day-trippers pile off passenger ferries from Paihia and vehicle ferries from nearby Opua to explore the village’s historic buildings and stroll along its quaint waterfront. Evenings are more peaceful and romantic – a far cry from the 1830s when Kororareka, as Russell was then known, was a swashbuckling town full of whalers and sealers with a reputation as the “Hell Hole of the Pacific”. Savage and drunken behaviour served as an open invitation to missionaries, who gradually won over a sizeable congregation and left behind Russell’s two oldest buildings, the church and a printing works that produced religious tracts. By 1840, Kororareka was the largest settlement in the country, but after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, Governor William Hobson fell out with both Maori and local settlers and moved his capital progressively further south. Meanwhile, initial Maori enthusiasm for the Treaty of Waitangi had faded: financial benefits had failed to materialize and the Confederation of Tribes flag that flew from Flagstaff Hill between 1834 and 1840 had been replaced by the Union Jack. This came to be seen as a symbol of British betrayal, and as resentment crystallized it found a leader in Hone Heke Pokai, Ngapuhi chief and son-in-law of Kerikeri’s Hongi Hika. Between July 1844 and March 1845, Heke and his followers cut down the flagstaff no less than four times, the last occasion sparking the first New Zealand War, which raged for nearly a year, during which Kororareka was destroyed. The settlement rose from the ashes under a new name, Russell, and grew slowly around its beachfront into the tranquil village of today. The main cruises (see p.187) all call here some fifteen minutes after leaving Paihia, though it’s important to reserve in advance so that they know to pick you up. If you’re only passing through, everything at Russell can be seen comfortably in a day. Arrival and information

196

Most visitors reach Russell by ferry (see box, p.190), but it’s also accessible along the back road described on p.183. Tourist information is available from Russell Information, at the end of the wharf (daily: Christmas–March 7.30am–8pm April–Christmas 8.30am–5pm; T 09/403 8020, W www .visitrussell.co.nz), who also make bookings for local trips and accommodation. For specific walking and environmental information make for DOC’s Bay of Islands Visitor Centre, The Strand (daily: Nov–May 9am–5pm; June–Oct 9am–4.30pm; T 09/403 9005) which is full of interesting displays and stocks the useful Russell Heritage Trail and Bay of Islands Walks leaflets.

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Few places are more than half a kilometre away from the wharf, though if time is limited you may fancy the Russell Mini Tour (3–5 tours daily; 1hr; $20; T 09/403 7866), which leaves from outside the Fullers office on The Strand and visits the major sights. There’s daytime Internet access at Enterprise Russell on York Street. Accommodation

Accommodation in Russell is much more limited than in Paihia and tends to be more upmarket. Apart from a handful of motels, hotels and backpacker lodges, most accommodation is in B&Bs and homestays. Don’t expect to find many vacancies in the three weeks after Christmas, when you’ll have to book well ahead and pay inflated rates, which continue to the end of February. Lodges, motels and B&Bs Arcadia Lodge 10 Florance Ave T09/403 7756, W www.arcadialodge.co.nz. One of Russell’s gems: B&B in an historic, rambling wooden house encircled by decks on a quiet hill overlooking English cottage gardens and the bay. It’s a 5min stroll from the village and some of the half-dozen

wooden-ﬂoored suites and rooms (one not en suite) enjoy sea views. Rooms 6 , suites 8 Motel Russell Matauwhi Bay Rd T 0800/240 011, W www.motelrussell.co.nz. Despite the lack of sea views, this is the pick of Russell’s motels, with pleasant s/c units and units (some with kitchens), plus an attractive pool and spa. Studios 4 , units 5

197

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| The Bay of Islands 198

Pukematu Lodge Flagstaff Hill T09/403 8500, W www.pukematulodge.co.nz. Beautifully sited boutique lodge with great 360-degree views and two spacious double suites furnished in recycled native wood. A delicious breakfast is included, plus mufﬁns and tea on arrival. 9 The White House 7 Church St T09/403 7676, Wwww.thewhitehouserussell.com. Wonderfully relaxing B&B in a historic 1840 house that’s been carefully modernized (including free Wi-Fi). Unwind in the spa pool in the garden and help-yourself buffet and cooked breakfast which you can spin out until the noon checkout. 8

Hostels and campsites Pukeko Cottage 14 Brind Rd T09/403 8498. Cute little hostel set on the hill above Russell with distant sea views. There are plenty of games and

books to read and a selection of twins and doubles, bookable either by the room (2 ) or bed ($25). Russell Top 10 Holiday Park Long Beach Rd T09/403 7826, Wwww.russelltop10.co.nz. Central, well-ordered and spotless campsite with tent and campervan sites and an extensive range of high-standard cabins and motel units. Rates rise appreciably between Dec 20 and end of Jan. Camping $13–19, cabins 2 , units 4 Sheltered Waters 18 Florance Ave T 09/403 8818, Wwww.russellbackpackers.co.nz. Modest and welcoming hostel conveniently sited close to town. Dorms $25, rooms and en suite 3 Wainui Lodge 92d Wahapu Rd, 5km south of Russell T 09/403 8278, W www.bay-of-islands .pelnet.org. Relaxed and friendly backpackers with great views. Closed May–Oct. Dorms $23, rooms 2

The Town

Arriving on the passenger ferry, the single most striking establishment at the southern end of town is Pompallier (daily: Dec–April 10am–5pm with or without tour; May–Nov by 45-min tour only, tours 10.15am, 11.15am, 1.15pm, 2.15pm & 3.15pm; $7.50), the last surviving building of Russell’s Catholic mission, once the headquarters of Catholicism in the western Pacific. Pompallier was built in 1842 as a printing works for the French Roman Catholic bishop Jean Baptiste François Pompallier. He had arrived three years earlier to find the Catholic word of God under siege from Anglican and Wesleyan tracts, translated into Maori. The missionaries built an elegant rammed-earth structure in a style typical of Pompallier’s native Lyon.The press and paper were imported, and a tannery installed to make leather book-bindings. During the next eight years over a dozen titles were printed, comprising more than thirty thousand volumes, which were some of the first books printed in Maori. The property became a private house in 1850, but restoration work has largely recreated its 1842 state. Today, artisans again produce handmade books – the production processes are explained in each room, and on the tour you can even get your hands dirty in what is New Zealand’s only surviving colonial tannery. Outside, the grounds make a perfect place for a picnic. Russell’s only other building surviving from the same era is the prim, white, weatherboard Christ Church on Robertson Road, built in 1836 and New Zealand’s oldest surviving church. Unlike most churches of similar vintage, it was not a mission church but built by local settlers: an appeal for public donations loosened the purse strings of Charles Darwin, who passed through the Bay of Islands at the time, long before he fell out with the church over his theory of evolution. In the mid-nineteenth century the church was besieged during skirmishes between Hone Heke’s warriors and the British, leaving several still-visible bullet holes. The small Russell Museum, York Street (daily: Christmas–Jan 10am–5pm; Feb–Christmas 10am–4pm; $5), shows a video telling the town’s history and contains well-laid-out exhibits, including an impressive one-fifth scale model of Cook’s Endeavour, which called in here in 1769. From the museum, a stroll along The Strand passes the prestigious Bay of Islands Swordfish Club, which was founded in 1924, and the Duke of Marlborough Hotel – the original building on this site held New Zealand’s first liquor licence.

Russell has a limited range of restaurants and prices are fairly high, but quality is good. Outside the peak summer season, things close down pretty early. For drinking the best bets are often the cheap private clubs – the RSA on Cass Street and the Bay of Islands Swordfish Club on The Strand, for example – which usually welcome visitors. Bay of Islands Swordfish Club The Strand. Technically a private club but you just sign yourself in. Always a winner for cheap beer, great sunset views from the veranda and simple but good bar meals. Kamakura The Strand T 09/403 7771. Probably the ﬁnest eating in town. A modern, licensed waterfront restaurant with an understated Japanese ambience and a varied menu of exquisite and beautifully presented dishes, particularly ﬁsh (mains around $30). Closed Mon & Tues. Omata Estate Aucks Rd, 8km from Russell and 2km from ferry wharf T09/403 8007, Wwww .omata.co.nz. Classy restaurant and bar overlooking

| The Bay of Islands

Eating and drinking

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At the end of The Strand, a short track (30–40min return) climbs steeply to Flagstaff Hill (Maiki). The current flagpole was erected in 1857, some twelve years after the destruction of the fourth flagpole by Hone Heke as a conciliatory gesture by a son of one of the chiefs who had ordered the original felling. The Confederation of Tribes flag, abandoned after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, is flown on twelve significant days of the year, including the anniversary of Hone Heke’s death and the final day of the first New Zealand War. From Flagstaff Hill it’s a further kilometre to the Tapeka Point Historic Reserve, a former pa site at the end of the peninsula – a wonderfully defensible position with great views and abundant evidence of terracing. Another worthwhile stroll is to Oneroa Bay (Long Beach), 1km east of Russell on the far side of the peninsula, a gently shelving beach sheltered from the prevailing wind and safe for swimming.

young vineyards with the inner bay as a backdrop. Lunch platters cost around $45–65 for two, dinner mains around $30. Advance booking essential for meals in summer. Sally’s 25 The Strand T09/403 7652. Convivial, unpretentious and always busy day/night restaurant, strong on seafood (and especially seafood chowder; $10). It’s worth booking ahead in peak season. Most mains $27–30. Waterfront Café The Strand. Simple café with great coffee, waterfront seating as well as all-day breakfasts and delicious lunches such as chicken and shrimp laksa. Closed Mon in winter.

Kerikeri KERIKERI, 25km northwest of Paihia, is central to the history of the Bay of Islands and yet geographically removed from it, strung out along the main road and surrounded by the orchards that form Kerikeri’s economic mainstay. Two kilometres to the east of town, the thin ribbon of the Kerikeri Inlet forces its way from the sea to its tidal limit at Kerikeri Basin, the site chosen by Samuel Marsden for the Church Missionary Society’s second mission in New Zealand. In the 1920s the area was planted with the subtropical crops that continue to thrive here – mainly citrus fruit, along with tamarillos, feijoas, melons, courgettes, peppers and kiwifruit. For most of the year it’s possible to get seasonal work in the orchards, weeding, thinning or picking. Work is most abundant from January to July, but this is also when competition for jobs is greatest, and you may find that your chances are just as good any month except August and September. The best contacts are the managers of the hostels and campsites, many of which also offer good weekly rates. In recent years Kerikeri has earned itself a reputation for its high-quality craft shops dotted amongst the orchards.

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Arrival and information

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Air New Zealand flights from Auckland land 5km out of town towards Paihia at Bay of Islands Airport, from where Paihia Taxis operate an airport shuttle ($10 per person to Kerikeri). Northliner and InterCity buses stop on Cobham Road, with several services to Paihia but just one bus heading north to Kaitaia daily (not Sun): book through Trixie Newton World Travel, 65 Kerikeri Rd (T 0800/108 001). There’s no official visitor centre, but you can pick up leaflets inside the foyer of the library on Cobham Road (Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 9am–2pm; T 09/407 9297); and there’s a DOC office at 34 Landing Rd (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; T 09/407 8474), which can advise on local walks and more ambitious treks into the Puketi and Omahuta forests (see p.204) and has Internet access.

Accommodation

Kerikeri has a good selection of accommodation in all categories, particularly budget places – a consequence of the area’s popularity with long-stay casual workers. The i-SITE office in Pahia keeps an updated list and can assist with bookings. Seasonal price fluctuations are nowhere near as marked as in Paihia, though it’s still difficult to find accommodation in January.

| The Bay of Islands

area, well-equipped standard cabins with good weekly rates, comfortable s/c units and a separate backpackers section (prices vary depending on length of stay). Other attractions are two spas and a big BBQ on Friday nights and the occasional sound of kiwi in the night. Camping $14–16, cabins 2 , units 4 Stone Store Lodge 201 Kerikeri Rd T09/407 6693, Wwww.stonestorelodge .co.nz. Stylish B&B in a light and airy contemporary house with views down to Kerikeri Basin. Decor is tastefully minimal, the spacious rooms are all climate-controlled with private deck, and there’s an option of dining on pizza cooked in (and eaten around) the outdoor oven. 6 The Summer House 424 Kerikeri Rd T09/407 4294, Wwww.thesummerhouse.co.nz. Classy boutique inn done out in French provincial style with three en-suite rooms. Sumptuous breakfasts are served in lovely gardens. Rooms 7 , s/c suite 8

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Abilene Motel 136 Kerikeri Rd T09/407 9203, W www.abilenemotel.co.nz. Centrally located motel in a garden setting with a solar-heated pool, spa and Sky TV. 4 Hone Heke Lodge 65 Hone Heke Rd T09/407 8170, W www.honeheke.co.nz. Pleasant hostel that’s recently undergone massive renovation and landscaping. Eight-bed dorms each come with a fridge and tea-making gear, plus there are doubles and twins, some en suite. There’s also a games room and BBQ area. Dorms $23, rooms 2 , en suites 3 Kemp Lodge 134 Kerikeri Rd T09/407 8295, W www.kemplodge.co.nz. Three pleasant s/c chalets close to town, complete with TV and video, and pool. 4 Kerikeri Top 10 Holiday Park and Aranga Backpackers Kerikeri Rd T0800/272 642, W www.aranga.co.nz. Large, beautiful streamside site on the edge of town with a spacious camping

Kerikeri Basin

Kerikeri’s past importance is evident at Kerikeri Basin, nearly 2km northeast of the current town. It was here, in 1821, that mission carpenters started work on what is now New Zealand’s oldest European-style building, Kerikeri Mission House (daily: Nov–April 10am–5pm; May–Oct 10am–4pm; combined entry with Old Stone Store $7.50), a restrained two-storey Georgian colonial affair. The first occupants, missionary John Butler and family, soon moved on, and by 1832 the house was in the hands of lay missionary and blacksmith James Kemp, who extended the design. Since the last of the Kemps moved out in 1974 it has been restored, furnished in mid-nineteenth-century style, and surrounded by colonial-style gardens. Next door is the only other extant building from the mission station and the country’s oldest stone building, the Old Stone Store, constructed mostly of local stone, with keystones and quoins of Sydney sandstone. Completed in 1836 as a central provision store for the Church Missionary Society, it successively served as a munitions store for troops garrisoned here to fight Hone Heke, then a kauri trading store and a shop, before being opened to the public in 1975. The ground-floor store sells goods almost identical to those on offer almost 180 years ago, most sourced from the original manufacturers. You can still buy the onceprized Hudson Bay trading blankets, plus copper and cast-iron pots, jute sacks, gunpowder tea, old-fashioned sweets, and preserves made from fruit grown in the mission garden next door. The two upper floors house a museum stocked with old implements, including a hand-operated flour mill from around 1820, thought to be the oldest piece of machinery in the country. From opposite the Old Stone Store, a path along the river leads to the site of local chief Hongi Hika’s Kororipo Pa, passing the place where, in the 1820s,

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he had a European-style house built. The pa commands a hill on a prominent bend in the river, a relatively secure base from which attacks were launched on other tribes using newly acquired firearms. Signs help interpret the dips and humps in the ground, but you’ll get a better appreciation of pre-European Maori life from Rewa’s Village, 1 Landing Rd (daily: Dec & Jan 9am–5pm; late Oct–April 9.30am–4.30pm; May–late Oct 10am–4pm; $5), a reconstruction of a fishing village across the river from the pa site. It comes complete with marae, weapons and kumara stores, as well as an authentic hangi site with an adjacent shell midden. The entrance kiosk screens a short video on the history of the area and can supply you with a guide to the “Discoverers Garden” planted with over fifty species of plant Maori used for purposes as varied as eating, tattooing, healing and the lifting of tapu.

| The Bay of Islands 202 Old

Stone Store, Kerikeri

The rest of town

| The Bay of Islands

Elsewhere, Kerikeri is dominated by orchards and craft outlets. The free and widely available Kerikeri Art & Craft Trail leaflet advertises the major ones; they’re mostly open daily from 10am–5pm, and you could easily spend a day pottering round them all. A few of the most highly regarded ones include The Enz of the Earth, right in town at 127 Kerikeri Rd (T 09/407 8367), which combines Indian and Indonesian handicrafts with an exotic garden;The Kauri Workshop, 500 Kerikeri Rd (T 09/407 9196), which stocks anything you could make from kauri; and next door, Makana Confections, Kerikeri Road (T 0800/625 262) produce handmade chocolates and you can watch the process. Creations by New Zealand’s top designers – including Kate Sylvester, Trelise Cooper and Doris De Pont – grace the racks of River NZ Designer Clothing, 86 Kerikeri Rd (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–2pm). Further out, Kaleidoscopes, 265 Waipapa Rd (T 09/407 4415, W www .scopesnz.com) make a fabulous range of devices out of mirrors made on site and a myriad coloured baubles. As well as classic swamp kauri tube kaleidoscopes they make wonderful jukebox kaleidoscopes and even a patented projecting kaleidoscope. If the crafts trail does nothing for you, help may be at hand in the form of the Steam Sawmill, Inlet Road, 4km east of town (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; $7.50; T 09/407 9707), a working steam-driven mill powered by secondhand equipment garnered from all over the country.You can take a look anytime, but it is best to join one of the tours (Mon–Fri 10.30am & 1.30pm) when the steam whistle is blown. The mill is closed from Christmas to the middle of January.

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Opposite is the Kerikeri Basin Reserve and the start of a track past the site of Kerikeri’s first hydroelectric station (15min each way) and the swimming holes at Fairy Pools (35min each way) to the impressively undercut Rainbow Falls (1hr each way).The latter are also accessible off Waipapa Road, 3km north of the Basin. To explore the waters of Kerikeri Inlet, join the hour-long steamboat cruise (Mon–Sat 11am & 2pm; $25; T 0800/944 785, W www.steamship.co.nz; booking essential) on one of two charming little boats: the replica nineteenthcentury Eliza Hobson which carries fourteen, or the diminutive 1882 original Firefly, which only has space for half a dozen.

Eating, drinking and entertainment

For its size, Kerikeri has an impressive selection of places to eat, particularly cafés. The town also boasts three wineries, all of which offer well-priced dining. Entertainment in Kerikeri is thinner on the ground, though there’s always the lovingly restored, sixty-year-old Cathay Cinema, on Hobson Avenue (T 09/407 4428), which shows mainstream first-run movies and has a good café attached (closed Sun). Wineries Ake Ake Vineyard 165 Waimate North Rd T09/407 8230, Wwww.akeakevineyard.co.nz. Newcomer whose cellar door is open Wed–Sun. Lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Fri & Sat plus Thurs & Sun Dec–April. Ake Ake also runs various tours ($3 to $9.50) and regular wine and food evenings. Cottle Hill Winery Cottle Hill Drive, about 4km south of town off SH10 (T 09/407 5203)

Considerable range of table wines, as well as port and dessert wines; with a summertime café serving ploughman’s lunches and antipasti platters. Marsden Estate Wiroa Rd T09/407 9398, W www.marsdenestate.co.nz. Makes a broad variety of reds and whites sampled through free tastings, and runs a moderately priced restaurant (closed Mon in winter).

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Restaurants & cafés

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Café Blue Kerikeri Rd, 3km west of town T 09/407 5150. Excellent licensed café for breakfast and lunch in a pretty garden setting. Dishes include a ﬁne range of quiche, pizza and ﬁlo rolls stuffed with imaginative ﬁllings, plus larger meals. Great coffee and cakes served outside or in the airy interior. Café Zest 73 Kerikeri Rd. Vibrant new café with sweet and savoury mufﬁns and scones and the best coffee in town, plus a huge range of wholesome hot lunches and salads under $15.

Fishbone Café 88 Kerikeri Rd T09/407 6065. Great licensed café for breakfast and lunch, perennially popular for its high-quality Kiwi fusion food. Jerusalem Cobblestone Mall T09/407 1001. Small, friendly, licensed Israeli café beloved by Northlanders for its authentic, low-cost and wonderfully aromatic Middle Eastern dishes to eat in or take away. Closed Sun lunch. Kerikeri Bakehouse Café Deli 334 Kerikeri Rd. Great, and reasonably priced, pastries, sandwiches, superlative vegetarian pies as well as soups and good coffee served in a large airy room or outside.

| The Bay of Islands

Around Kerikeri Some 15km southwest from Kerikeri is WAIMATE NORTH and the colonial Regency-style Te Waimate Mission House, set in lush gardens (10pm–5pm; Nov–Dec 24 Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun; Dec 26–April daily; May–Oct Sat & Sun or by appointment T 09/405 9734; $7.50), New Zealand’s second-oldest European building. Now virtually in the middle of nowhere, in the 1830s this was the centre of a vigorous Anglican mission, the first to be established on an inland site, chosen for its fertile soils and large Maori population. Missionaries were keen to add European agricultural techniques to the literacy and religion they were teaching the Maori, and they made use of the grounds already cultivated by the missionaries’ friend and Ngapuhi chief, Hongi Hika. By 1834 locally grown wheat was milled at the river, orchards were flourishing and crops were sprouting – all impressing Charles Darwin, who visited the following year. For two years from 1842 this was the home of Bishop Selwyn and headquarters of the Anglican church in New Zealand but, ultimately, shifting trade patterns made this first European-style farm uneconomic and the mission declined. The house itself was built by converts in 1831–32 and fashioned almost entirely of local kauri. Though slightly modified over the years, it has been restored as accurately as possible to its original design. Guided tours highlight prize possessions. The modest mission Church of St John the Baptist nearby is also open daily during daylight hours (free). Ngawha Springs and the Puketi Forest

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The nearest substantial town to Waimate North is KAIKOHE, almost equidistant from both coasts.There’s little reason to stop, though you might like to soak your bones at Ngawha Springs (daily 9am–9.30pm; $5), pronounced “Naf-fa Springs” 7km southeast of Kaikohe, where eight individual pools (all with different mineral contents and at different temperatures) are enclosed by native timber but otherwise untouched by tourist trappings. The stands of the Puketi and Omahuta native forests, 20km north of Kaikohe, jointly comprise one of the largest continuous tracts of kauri forest in the north. The easiest access is to the east of the forest: head north off SH1 at Okaihau, or west off SH10 just north of Kerikeri along Pungaere Road. Both routes bring you to the Puketi Recreation Area, where there’s a basic DOC $7 campsite and a trampers’ hut (from $7 in an 18-bunk main hut or two 3-bunk cabins; see Kerikeri DOC for keys) at the start of the twenty-kilometre Waipapa River Track – best done in one short (5hr) and one long (8hr) day, camping midway.This and several other decent tracks are detailed in DOC’s free Puketi and Omahuta Forests leaflet which, along with camping and hut details, can be obtained from the DOC office in Kerikeri.

North to Doubtless Bay NORTHL AND

| North to Doubtless Bay

North of the Bay of Islands everything gets a lot quieter. There are few towns of any consequence along the coast and it is the peace and slow pace that attract visitors to an array of glorious beaches and the lovely Whangaroa Harbour. The first stop north of Kerikeri is tiny Matauri Bay, where a hilltop memorial commemorates the Greenpeace flagship, Rainbow Warrior, which now lies off the coast. A sealed but windy back road continues north, offering fabulous sea views and passing gorgeous headlands and beaches before delivering you to Whangaroa Harbour, one of the most beautiful in Northland, and an excellent place to go sailing or kayaking. Further north is the idyllic surfing and fishing hideaway of Taupo Bay. Continuing north brings you to the huge bite out of the coast called Doubtless Bay, which had two celebrated discoverers: Kupe, said to have first set foot on Aotearoa in Taipa; and Cook, who sailed past in 1769 and pronounced it “doubtless, a bay”. A week later, French explorer Jean François Marie de Surville became the first European to enter the bay. Bounded on the west and north by the sheltering Karikari Peninsula, the bay offers safe boating and is popular with Kiwi vacationers. In January you can barely move here and you’ll struggle to find accommodation, but the shoulder seasons can be surprisingly quiet, and outside December, January and February room prices drop to more affordable levels. Most of the bay’s facilities cluster along the southern shore of the peninsula in a string of beachside settlements – Coopers Beach, Cable Bay and Taipa Bay – running west from picturesque Mangonui.

Matauri Bay Some 20km north of Kerikeri, a high inland ridge provides a dramatic first glimpse of the long and sandy MATAURI BAY as it stretches north to a stand of Norfolk pines and the Cavalli Islands just offshore. The northern limit of

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Warrior Memorial, Matauri Bay

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the main bay is defined by Matauri Bay Hill, topped by a distinctive stone and steel Rainbow Warrior Memorial which remembers the Greenpeace flagship (see box below), now scuttled off Motutapere Island, one of the Cavalli Islands. Designed by sculptor Chris Booth, the memorial comprises a stone arch (symbolizing a rainbow) and the vessel’s salvaged bronze propeller. It’s reached by a well-worn path (20min return; 70m ascent) from near the holiday park at the foot of the hill. Missionary Samuel Marsden first set foot in Aotearoa in 1814 at Matauri Bay, where he mediated between the Ngati Kura people – who still own the bay – and some Bay of Islands Maori, a process commemorated by the quaint wooden Samuel Marsden Memorial Church on the road into town, and a small memorial near the beach. The Ngati Kura tell of their ancestral waka, Mataatua, which lies in waters nearby. It was the resonance of this legendary canoe that partly led the Ngati Kura to offer a final resting place to the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior. Paihia-based dive operators (see p.188) run trips out to the wreck, 10 minutes offshore from Matauri Bay. The best visibility is in April; from September to November plankton sometimes obscure the view but it’s still pretty good.

French nuclear testing in the Pacific The French government has always claimed that nuclear testing is completely safe, and for decades persisted in conducting tests on the tiny Paciﬁc atolls of Mururoa and Fangataufa, a comfortable 15,000km from Paris, but only 4000km northeast of New Zealand. In 1966 France turned its back on the 1963 Partial Test Ban Treaty, which outlawed atmospheric testing, and relocated Paciﬁc islanders away from their ancestral villages to make way for a barrage of tests over the next eight years. The French authorities claimed that “Not a single particle of radioactive fallout will ever reach an inhabited island” – and yet radiation was routinely detected as far away as Samoa, Fiji and even New Zealand. Increasingly antagonistic public opinion forced the French to conduct their tests underground in deep shafts, where another 200 detonations took place, threatening the geological stability of these fragile coral atolls. Surveys with very limited access to the test sites have since revealed severe ﬁssuring; there is also evidence of radioactive isotopes in the Mururoa lagoon, as well as submarine slides and subsidence. In 1985, Greenpeace co-ordinated a New Zealand-based protest ﬂotilla, headed by its ﬂagship, the Rainbow Warrior, but before the ﬂeet could set sail from Auckland, the French secret service sabotaged the Rainbow Warrior, detonating two bombs below the waterline. As rescuers recovered the body of Greenpeace photographer Fernando Pereira, two French secret service agents posing as tourists were arrested. Flatly denying all knowledge at ﬁrst, the French government was ﬁnally forced to admit to what David Lange (then Prime Minister of New Zealand) described as “a sordid act of international state-backed terrorism”. The two captured agents were sentenced to ten years in jail, but France used all its international muscle to have them serve their sentences on a French Paciﬁc island; they both served less than two years before being honoured and returning to France. In 1995, to worldwide opprobrium, France announced a further series of tests. Greenpeace duly dispatched Rainbow Warrior II, which was impounded by the French navy on the tenth anniversary of the sinking of the original Rainbow Warrior. In early 1996 the French ﬁnally agreed to stop nuclear testing in the Paciﬁc, paving the way for improved diplomatic relations between the French and New Zealand, and the following year the two foreign ministers met for the ﬁrst time since the bombing of the Rainbow Warrior.

Accommodation in the bay is limited to the peaceful Matauri Bay Holiday Park (T 09/405 0525, W www.matauribay.co.nz; camping from $12; on-site caravans 2 ; chalets 3 ), which has some lovely beachfront sites and a handy small shop.The only other place for a bite to eat is Matauri Top Shop, a combined store and good-value café at the top of Matauri Bay Road, just before you descend to the bay.

| North to Doubtless Bay

Inland from Matauri Bay on SH10 the small town of KAEO heralds the virtually landlocked and sheltered Whangaroa Harbour. Time spent around here is the perfect antidote to Bay of Islands’ commercialism. The scenery, albeit on a smaller scale, is easily a match for its southern cousin and, despite the limited facilities, you can still get out onto the water for a cruise or to join the big-game fishers. Narrow inlets forge between cliffs and steep hills, most notably the two bald volcanic plugs, St Paul and St Peter, which rise behind the harbour’s two settlements, WHANGAROA and TOTARA NORTH. The harbour wasn’t always so quiet though, being among the first areas in New Zealand to be visited by European pioneers, most famously those aboard the Boyd, which called here in 1809 to load kauri spars for shipping to Britain. A couple of days after its arrival, all sixty-six crew were killed and the ship burned by local Maori in retribution for the crew’s mistreatment of Tara, a highborn Maori sailor who had apparently transgressed the ship’s rules. A British whaler avenged the incident by burning the entire Maori village, thereby sparking off a series of skirmishes that spread over the north for five years. Later the vast stands of kauri were hacked away; some were rafted to Auckland, while others were milled at Totara North. Even if you’re just passing through, it’s worth driving the 4km along the northern shore of the harbour to Totara North, passing a boatyard or two, the last commercial remnants of this historic community.

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Whangaroa Harbour

Activities

The single best thing to do around Whangaroa is to spend a day on the eleven-metre Snow Cloud yacht (T 09/405 0523, W www.snowcloud.co.nz, E [emailprotected]; 10–11hr; $90, including meals) – trips typically involve sailing out to the rugged uninhabited Cavalli Islands, stopping to let the small group of passengers snorkel, sunbathe and walk; it’s great value for money. Alternatively, sail on a similarly priced trip on the fifteen-metre steel cutter, Sea Eagle (T 09/405 1963, W www.seaeaglecharters.com). Summer kayak trips (half-day; $65; full-day $85, no credit cards) can be arranged with the knowledgeable Northland Sea Kayaking, on the northeastern flank of the harbour (T 09/405 0381, W www.northlandseakayaking.co.nz); while the Whangaroa Big Gamefish Club are the people to see if you want to go out game fishing. One of the most immediately rewarding walks is the hike up the volcanic dome of St Paul (30min return; 140m ascent) from the top of Old Hospital Road in Whangaroa. The final few metres involve an easy scramble with fixed chains to assist. On the harbour’s north side, DOC’s Lane Cove Walk (90min–2hr each way) runs from Totara North, past freshwater pools, mangroves and viewpoints to DOC’s Lane Cove Cottage ($12) on Pekapeka Bay, which sleeps sixteen people, but only opens for a minimum of four. It is accessible on foot and by boat, and has a solar-heated shower, water, toilets and plenty of sandflies. You’ll need your own cooking gear and should book well in advance in summer through Kerikeri DOC.

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Practicalities

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| North to Doubtless Bay

Though a combined InterCity and Northliner bus plies SH10 at the head of the harbour, public transport reaches neither the small community of Whangaroa, 6km off SH10 on the southern side of the harbour, nor tiny Totara North, 4km off the highway on the northern side. There’s good accommodation around the harbour much of it clustered along the road to Whangaroa; try A Kahoe Farms Hostel SH10 1.5km north of the Totara North turn-off (T 09/405 1804, W www.kahoefarms.co.nz; dorms $25, rooms 2 ), a small and extremely hospitable backpackers in a beautifully restored nineteenth-century property tucked into a corner of a working cattle farm, where you can enjoy excellent home-made pizza and pasta dinners and generous breakfasts, plus kayak rental and hiking trails to some superb swimming holes. Other eating options include the Whangaroa Big Gamefish Club overlooking the yacht harbour, and, across the road, the Marlin Hotel, which has surf ’n’ turf fare and is a good spot for a beer and a game of pool.

Taupo Bay A sealed 13km road from SH10 brings you to TAUPO BAY, a blissfully undeveloped holiday community with a smattering of beach shacks, and some of the best surfing and rock and beach fishing in Northland. Surfers of all levels, from beginners onwards, can take lessons with Isobar Surf, 43 Mako St (T 09/406 0719, W www.isobarsurf.co.nz), with lessons starting from $65 for two hours; $180 for an “overnighter”, staying at the school’s surf lodge; and $690 for a fiveday stay, including accommodation. Your only other accommodation option is the friendly Taupo Bay Holiday Park, on your right as you arrive into the township (T 09/406 0315, W www.taupobayholidaypark.co.nz; camping & dorms $14–16; cabins 2 ), which rents surf and boogie boards ($15 per hour), kayaks ($30 per hour), and sells bait and a few basic supplies at Taupo Bay’s only shop. Easy and informative two-and-a-half-hour guided bushwalks (contact Murray Moses, T 027 218 168; $20) depart from the holiday park.

Mangonui and around

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There’s an antiquated air to MANGONUI, strung along a sheltered halfkilometre-long harbour off Doubtless Bay. A handful of two-storey buildings with wooden verandas have been preserved, some operating as craft shops or cafés, but this is still very much a working village. With a lively fishing wharf and a traditional grocery perched on stilts over the water, it makes the most obvious stopping point on the way north, and has access to some excellent beaches nearby. Don’t miss the reasonably priced selection of handmade woven flax items and other locally made crafts at Flax Bush, The Waterfront: the deals on woven baskets (kete) are among the best you’ll find. Art of a different kind is found along the Waterfront in the old courthouse at Exhibit A, which displays quality arts and crafts by artists from around the Far North. Mangonui means “big shark”, recalling the legendary chief Moehuri’s waka which was supposedly led into the harbour by such a fish. But it was whales and the business of provisioning whaling ships that made the town: one story tells of a harbour so packed with ships that folk could leap between the boats to cross from Mangonui to the diminutive settlement of Hihi on the far shore. As whaling diminished, the kauri trade took its place, chiefly around Mill Bay, the cove five minutes’ walk to the west of Mangonui. Dolphin Rendezvous (T 0800/732 432, W www.dolphinrendezvous.co.nz) is the only operator that can take you swimming with dolphins north of the

The Swamp Palace & Bush Fairy Dairy

| North to Doubtless Bay

Bay of Islands, meaning that you’re not sharing the water with boatloads of other tourists. Full-day trips cost $145, plus an extra $20 for an optional barbeque lunch (or BYO barbeque ingredients); ask about pick-ups from Paihia. While ships were repaired and restocked at Mangonui, barrels were mended a couple of kilometres west beside a stream crossing the strand that became known as COOPERS BEACH. This glorious and well-shaded sweep of sand is now backed by a string of motels and construction sites for big new homes. The beach is popular in January and at weekends, but at other times you may find you have it pretty much to yourself. Another couple of kilometres west is the smaller settlement of CABLE BAY, with an excellent swimming beach and good surf. The Taipa River separates Cable Bay from the beachside village of TAIPA, now the haunt of sunbathers and swimmers, but historically significant as the spot where Kupe, the discoverer of Aotearoa in Maori legend, first set foot on the land. There’s a concrete memorial to him near the BP station by the Taipa River. To get a feel for the layout of the bay, wander up to the views at Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve, off Rangikapiti Road, between Mangonui and Coopers Beach. Mangonui also makes a good base for organized trips to Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach (see box, p.214).

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If you’re staying around Doubtless Bay and have your own transport, don’t miss an evening at The Swamp Palace (T09/408 7040), a quirky cinema in the Oruru Community Hall, 8km south of Taipa in the middle of nowhere. It caters to an eclectic mix of tastes – cult and classic movies, as well as the very latest releases. Call ahead to check programmes and opening hours, or ask at the Bush Fairy Dairy, at Peria (T 09/408 5508), signposted a further 4km down Oruru Road. Brimming with local art, craft, clothing and organic produce (plus standard dairy items), this authentic, hippie-style co-op also hosts full moon bazaars each month throughout the summer, complete with poetry readings and acoustic jam sessions around the bonﬁre along with craft and produce markets.

Practicalities

SH10 bypasses the Mangonui waterfront, which is reached on a two-kilometre loop road plied by the joint Northliner and InterCity bus service, which runs once a day in each direction between Paihia and Kaitaia. The volunteer-staffed visitor centre opposite the 4-Square grocery (daily: at least 10am–4pm; T 09/406 2046, W www.doubtlessbay.com) can point you to accommodation, both here and along the coast, and advise on bus bookings. If you want to dive, contact Seabed Safaris (T 09/408 5885, W www .divingseabedsafaris.com), who offer two-dive trips ($125) and Rainbow Warrior dives ($145), both including gear. Accommodation

There are some nice places to stay around Mangonui, but not much budget accommodation and no camping. Beach Lodge Coopers Beach T 09/409 0068, W www.beachlodge.co.nz. Five breezy yet elegant loft apartments, each with its own deck, full kitchen and Wi-Fi. Tranquillity is enhanced by the

fact that it doesn’t accept children under 8 years old. 7 Driftwood Lodge SH10, Cable Bay T09/406 0418, Wwww.driftwoodlodge.co.nz. Great lodge

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right beside the beach with views of the Karikari Peninsula from the broad deck where everyone gathers for sundowners and perhaps a BBQ. Accommodation is in fully s/c units and there’s free access to dinghies, kayaks and boogie boards. Always popular, so book well ahead. Studios 5 , apartments 6

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Mangonui Hotel Waterfront Rd, Mangonui T09/406 0003, Wwww.mangonuihotel.co.nz. Century-old, traditional hotel opposite the harbour opening to an upstairs veranda. Rooms (doubles are en suite) are cheerfully renovated in bright colours. Rooms with harbour views go quickly, so book ahead or arrive early. Dorms $25, single rooms 1 double rooms 4

Eating and drinking

| North to Doubtless Bay

Doubtless Bay has the best range of places to eat north of Kerikeri, though admittedly it doesn’t have much competition. Committed drinking mostly happens at the Mangonui Hotel, which often has bands at weekends. On Saturday mornings, a gourmet market sets up on the lawns outside Coopers Café. Coopers Café 157 SH10, Coopers Beach T09/406 0860. Award-winning Maori chef Michael Venner cooked his way around the kitchens of the world, before opening his relaxed ﬁne dining restaurant. Stop in for a Northlandroasted Ariki coffee, Belgian chocolate milkshake and impeccably prepared lunches (mains $12.50– 22.50) and dinners (mains $22.50–35.50); you might also catch a wine-and-cheese night or classical quartet performance. Dinner bookings essential; closed Mon. Fresh & Tasty Waterfront Rd, Mangonui. Rival chippy to neighbouring Mangonui, and much frequented by locals happy to trade location for lower prices, less waiting time and equally good tucker. The Galley Waterfront Rd, Mangonui T09/406 1233. Eclectic restaurant in Mangonui’s former

post ofﬁce serving a Mediterranean-leaning surf ’n’ turf menu. Mangonui Fish Shop Waterfront Rd, Mangonui. Ownership of this famed ﬁsh and chip restaurant, set on stilts over the water, has changed several times over the last few years, but its location remains idyllic. It’s descended upon in mid-afternoons during summer by several of the Cape Reinga tour buses for the catch of the day – aim to arrive before or after they’ve left or you’ll be in for a wait. Licensed and BYO. Waterfront Café Waterfront Rd, Mangonui T 09/406 0850. Respected café and bar opening out to pavement seating just over the street from the harbour. Good coffee, breakfasts, light lunches and a good range of dinner mains including ﬁne pizzas.

The Karikari Peninsula

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Doubtless Bay to the east and Rangaunu Harbour to the west are bounded by the crooked arm of the Karikari Peninsula which strikes north swathed in unspoiled golden- and white-sand beaches. Outside Christmas to mid-February, they have barely a soul on them. Once something of a backwater, the peninsula has been transformed since the millennium with the opening of Karikari Estate, a vast golf resort, vineyard and winery. That aside, facilities remain limited; there’s no public transport, and without diving or fishing gear, you’ll have to resign yourself to lazing on the beaches and swimming from them – and there can be few better places to do just that. The initial approach across a low and scrubby isthmus is less than inspiring, though it’s worth stopping briefly at Lake Ohia, 1km off SH10, which has gradually drained to reveal the stumps of a 40,000-year-old kauri forest thought to have been destroyed by some prehistoric cataclysm. A kilometre on, the Gum Hole Reserve has a short trail past holes left by kauri gum diggers (see box, p.226). Eight kilometres later, a side road leads to the peninsula’s west coast and the Puheke Scenic Reserve, a gorgeous, dune-backed beach that’s usually deserted. Another fine white strand spans the nearby hamlet of RANGIPUTA. The peninsula’s main road continues past the Rangiputa junction to the community of TOKERAU BEACH, a cluster of houses and a couple of shops

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| Kaitaia and around

at the northern end of the grand sweep of Doubtless Bay. There’s accommodation nearby at the well-run Whatuwhiwhi Top 10 Holiday Park, Whatuwhiwhi Road (T 09/408 7202, W www.whatuwhiwhitop10.co.nz; camping $17 cabins 2 , self-catering cabins 3 , units 4 , and deluxe units 5 ) set back from a gorgeous beach; book ahead for summer, when prices jump considerably. Neighbouring A to Z Diving (T 09/408 7077, W www.atozdiving.co.nz), offer diving off the Karikari Peninsula (two-tank dive $185), plus trips to the Rainbow Warrior wreck ($195), both including gear. A kilometre north of Tokerau Beach you’re into the Karikari Estate where an international-standard golf course surrounds Carrington (T 09/408 7222, W www.carrington.co.nz; 9 ) a sophisticated resort high on a hill with good sea views, and a fine restaurant. A few hundred metres further north a hillside swathed in grape vines is dominated by Karikari Estate winery (T 09/408 7222, W www.karikariestate.co.nz) the northernmost in New Zealand, which produced its first vintage in 2003. It is a great spot with extensive views, perfect for leisurely sampling their wares, especially over lunch. The Karikari Peninsula saves its best until last: Maitai Bay, 6km north of Carrington, is a matchless double arc of golden sand split by a rocky knoll, encompassed by the Maitai Bay Campground ($8), Northland’s largest DOC campsite, with cold showers, toilets and drinking water. Much of the site is tapu to local Maori, and you are encouraged to respect the sacred areas.

Kaitaia and around KAITAIA, 40km west of Mangonui, is the Far North’s largest commercial centre, situated near the junction of the two main routes north. It makes a convenient base for some of the best trips to Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach (see p.214), far preferable to the longer trips from the Bay of Islands. Kaitaia has suffered from a bad rap in some media, but the town is no more or less dangerous than elsewhere. That said, there’s not a great deal to see in this working town and with your own transport, you might want to base yourself at the magnificent beach in Ahipara (see p.212), to sand toboggan the giant dunes or to pass through the old gumfields. A Maori village already flourished here when the first missionary, Joseph Matthews, came looking for a mission site in 1832. The protection of the mission encouraged other European pastoralists to establish themselves here, but by the 1880s they found themselves swamped by the gum diggers who had come to plunder the underground deposits around Lake Ohia and Ahipara. Many early arrivals were young Dalmatians (mostly Croats) fleeing tough conditions in what was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, though the only evidence of this is a Serbo-Croat welcome sign at the entrance to town, and a cultural society that holds a traditional dance each year. The best place to gain a sense of the area is the Far North Regional Museum, 6 South Rd (daily 10am–4pm; $4), with arresting displays on local life and history. If you’re here around the second weekend of March, you can also catch competitors from around the world take part in a series of running events on Ninety Mile Beach, including the Te Houtaewa Challenge (W www .newzealand-marathon.co.nz), named after the tale of a great Maori athlete. The races are generally preceded by the combined five-day Kai Maori Food Festival and Te Houtaewa Arts & Crafts Festival, both held in Kaitaia. In the Te Houtaewa Waka Ama Surf Challenge, usually two or three weeks after the

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marathon, six-man outrigger waka race against each other, in 1000-, 3,000and 5,000-metre sprints, finishing at Ahipara; again, anyone can enter. Locally made arts, crafts and clothing at Finders Gallery (Commerce Street) will fill up some suitcase space.

Practicalities NORTHL AND

| Kaitaia and around

The daily InterCity–Northliner joint bus service pulls up outside Kaitaia’s visitor centre, South Road (daily 8.30am–5pm; T 09/408 0879, E kaitaiainfo @xtra.co.nz), which sells bus tickets, rents sand toboggans ($10 per day) and has Internet access. They also stock DOC leaflets such as Kaitaia Area Walks and Cape Reinga and Te Paki Walks, but for detailed tramping info, you can also visit the DOC office on Matthews Avenue (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm, T 09/408 6014). The airport, 9km north of town near Awanui, is connected by direct flights to Auckland with Air New Zealand (T 0800/737 000). Accommodation and eating

Accommodation can be tight in peak season, but is otherwise plentiful, and prices are generally lower than at the coastal resorts to the east. Also consider places near Ninety Mile Beach, listed under Ahipara (see p.213). Self-caterers can stock up at the Pak ’n Save (West Lane). Historic Wireless B&B 122 Wireless Rd, 4km north of Kaitaia T 09/408 1929, W www .kaitaia-bnb.co.nz. Friendly kauri-ﬂoored homestay in a large 1912 house originally built as worker accommodation for the nearby wireless station. Shared-bath rooms are comfortable and breakfast is included. 4 Main Street Lodge 235 Commerce St T 09/408 1275, W www.mainstreetlodge.co.nz. Welcoming and well-equipped hostel that’s always alive with folk headed for the Cape (tours pick up from the hostel); if you’re hanging around town, you can also organize bone-carving lessons here. Dorms $26, rooms 2 Beachcomber 222 Commerce St. Kaitaia’s hippest new café/restaurant, with Asian-inﬂuenced dishes

such as honey soy chicken, and bountiful fresh seafood. Lunch mains $15–16, dinner mains $26–28; closed Sun. Birdie’s 14 Commerce St. Old-school café, open from breakfast until lunch (and dinner in summer), and serving up huge portions of hearty Kiwi food at modest prices (mains $12–18). Closed Sun in winter. Bridge Cottage 8 Redan Rd T09/408 2555. Kaitaia’s ﬁnest dining in a converted house beside a stream. There’s a hint of big city style mixed with a laid-back Kaitaia quality. Delicious lunch mains are around $16, with dinner mains under $30. Kauri Arms Commerce St. The most popular of Kaitaia’s workaday pubs, drumming up custom with local bands at weekends.

Ahipara and the gumﬁelds

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The southern end of Ninety Mile Beach finishes with a flourish at AHIPARA, a secluded scattered village 15km west of Kaitaia that grew up around the Ahipara gumfields. A hundred kilometres of sand recede into sea spray to the north, while to the south the high flatlands of the Ahipara Plateau tumble to the sea in a cascade of golden dunes. Beach and plateau meet at Shipwreck Bay, a surf and swimming beach with an underground following with surfers for its long tubes (sometimes 400m or more).The bay is named after the paddleshaft of the Favourite, wrecked in 1870, whose funnel sticks out of the waves at low tide. At low tide you can pick mussels off the volcanic rocks and follow the wave-cut platform around a series of bays for about 5km to the dunes – about an hour’s walk – although most do it by quad bike or mountain bike. At their peak in the early twentieth century, the barren gumfields, on a sandy dune plateau to the south of town, supported three hotels and two thousand

people. Unlike most gumfields, where experimental probing and digging was the norm, here the soil was methodically excavated, washed and sieved to extract the valuable kauri gum (see box, p.226). None of the dwellings remain on the plateau, and the gumfields are an eerie, desolately beautiful spot. Practicalities

1880 timber homestead with kauri ﬂoors, right across the road from the beach. Relax in four comfortable doubles, two twins or two four-bed dorms; there’s also a BBQ, free boogie boards, and surfboard hire; surﬁng instruction can be arranged. Bookings by phone only. Dorms $24, rooms 2 YHA Ahipara Motor Camp Takahe St T09/409 4864, Wwww.ahiparamotorcamp.co.nz. The best camping option in the Kaitai-Ahipara area, just 300m from the sea, has just joined the YHA network, offering accommodation-wide member discounts. Camping $14, basic cabins & on-site caravans 1 , en-suite double rooms & s/c cabins 2

| Kaitaia and around

Ahipara Bay Motel 22 Reef View Rd T0800/906 453, Wwww.ahipara.co.nz/baymotel. A choice of pleasant older motel units and six excellent luxury versions with tremendous sea views; and there’s a decent on-site restaurant. Units 5 , luxury 6 Beach Abode 11 Korora St T09/409 4070, W www.beachabode.co.nz. Three well-appointed beachfront units, each with Wi-Fi, a full kitchen, BBQ, deck and great views to the sea. Kids over 12 years only. Apartments 6 Endless Summer Lodge 245 Foreshore Rd T09/409 4181, Wwww.endlesssummer .co.nz. Well-managed hostel in an atmospheric

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Ahipara is a broadly more appealing place to stay than Kaitaia, though there is no public transport, supermarket or bank. There is a small store, a takeaway and the decent Gum Diggers Café, 22 Reef View Rd, which benefits from sea views and serves a good choice of dishes under $15. Virtually all the accommodation offers self-catering, and the village gets packed out for two weeks at Christmas.

Activities

The best way to get into the dunes and gumfields is on a quad bike guided tour with Tua Tua Tours (T 0800/494 288, W www.ahipara.co.nz/tuatuatours) whose excursions range from ninety minutes (single $100; double $110) to an excellent three-hour safari (single $175; double $185), which includes sandboarding. If you can manage without the local knowledge and riding instruction, head out on your own with quad bikes from the Ahipara Adventure Centre, Takahe Street, 100m past the store (T 09/409 2055, W www.ahipara.co.nz/adventurecenter) who rent single-rider machines (1hr $60, $40 per hr thereafter; sand toboggan included). They also rent out surfboards, kayaks and mountain bikes (all $25 per half-day), and blo-karts ($30 for first 30min and $25 per 30min thereafter). Alternatively, you can saddle up with Ahipara Horse Treks (T 027 333 8645 or T 027 263 5269). Two-hour rides cost $60. A short and worthwhile walk takes you from the western end of the beach to a lookout (500m, 10min return), giving spectacular views all the way to Cape Reinga. The track begins at the end of Foreshore Road. Keener hikers might fancy tackling the same area on a 6hr section of the tide-dependent Gumfields Walk (12km loop; free maps and tide times from the Ahipara Adventure Centre and Kaitaia visitor centre), which begins at the bridge at Shipwreck Bay and takes you into an eerie and desolate landscape of windsculpted dunes, then back along the beach. Let someone know where you’re going, take plenty of water and look out for quad bikes. 213

Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga

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| Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga

Northland’s final gesture is the Aupori Peninsula, a narrow, 100km-long finger of consolidated and grassed-over dunes ending in a lumpy knot of 60million-year-old marine volcanoes. To Maori it’s known as Te Hika o te Ika (“The tail of the fish”), recalling the legend of Maui hauling up the North Island (“the fish”) from the sea while in his canoe (the South Island). The most northerly accessible point on the peninsula is Cape Reinga, believed by Maori to be the “Place of Leaping”, where the spirits of the dead depart. Beginning their journey by sliding down the roots of an 800-year-old pohutukawa into the ocean, they climb out again on Ohaua, the highest of the Three Kings Islands, to bid a final farewell before returning to their ancestors

Getting to the Cape The best way to experience the phenomenal length and wild beauty of Ninety Mile Beach is to take one of the bus tours based in Kaitaia, Ahipara, Mangonui and Paihia in the Bay of Islands. Those from Paihia are the most numerous but are also the longest (11hr), most leaving daily at around 7.30am. They go via Kerikeri, Mangonui and Awanui in one direction and passing Kaitaia and the kauri trees of the Puketi Forest in the other, with pick-ups along the way. Tours starting further north give you less time in the bus and more for exploring. The content varies but in essence the buses do the same trip, a loop up the Aupori Peninsula and back, travelling SH1 in one direction and Ninety Mile Beach in the other, the order being dictated by the tide. For many, the highlight is sandboarding on a boogie board or in a toboggan down the huge dunes that ﬂank Te Paki Stream. Smaller operators use more modest vehicles and take a less rigid approach, letting the group ﬁne-tune the itinerary and not fussing overly if things run past the scheduled return time. Most companies give discounts to carriers of backpacker cards.

Going it alone on Ninety Mile Beach

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Rental cars and private vehicles are not insured to drive on Ninety Mile Beach and for good reason. Vehicles frequently get bogged in the sand and abandoned by their occupants. As there are no rescue facilities near enough to get you out before the tide comes in, and mobile phone coverage is almost nil, you could end up with a long walk. Even in your own vehicle, two-wheel-drives aren’t recommended, regardless of weather conditions, which can change rapidly. If you are determined to take your own vehicle for a spin on the beach, seek local advice and prepare your car by spraying some form of water repellent on the ignition system – CRC is a common brand. Schedule your trip to coincide with a receding tide, starting two hours after high water and preferably going in the same direction as the bus trafﬁc that day; drive on dry but ﬁrm sand, avoiding any soft patches, and slow down to cross streams running over the beach – they often have deceptively steep banks. If you do get stuck in soft sand, lowering the tyre pressure will improve traction. There are several access points along the beach, but the only ones realistically available to ordinary vehicles are the two used by the tour buses: the southern access point at Waipapakauri Ramp, 6km north of Awanui, and the more dangerous northern one along Te Paki Stream, which involves negotiating the quicksands of a river – start in low gear and don’t stop, no matter how tempting it might be to ponder the dunes. If you’re intent on seeing Cape Reinga and not bothered about driving along Ninety Mile Beach, you can drive to the Cape via the main road and avoid the beach altogether.

Far North Outback Adventures Ahipara T09/408 0927, W www.farnorthtours.co. nz. Exclusive 4WD custom tours (8hr; $120 per person; $550 for personal tours) with a maximum of ﬁve people and including morning tea and lunch. They go off the beaten track, taking in the white sands of Great Exhibition Bay to explore ﬂora, fauna and archeological sites. Harrisons Cape Runner 123 North Rd, Kaitaia T0800/227 373, Wwww.ahipara .co.nz/caperunner. Their bargain basic tour ($45) includes the Cape, beach, pick-up and snacks. Sand Safaris 221 Commerce St, Kaitaia T0800/869 090, W www.sandsafaris.co.nz. Good-value 8hr Cape Reinga tour in a small bus, also visiting the silica sands and the Gumdiggers Park Ancient Buried Kauri Forest. $65 including a picnic lunch.

| Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga

Tours from Kaitaia and Ahipara

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in Hawaiiki.The spirits reach Cape Reinga along Ninety Mile Beach (actually around 64 miles long), a wide band of sand running straight along the western side of the peninsula. Most visitors follow the spirits, though they do so in modern buses specifically designed for belting along the hard-packed sand at the edge of the surf – officially part of the state highway system – then negotiating the quicksands of Te Paki Stream to return to the road.The main road runs more or less down the centre of the peninsula, while the western ocean is kept tantalizingly out of sight by the thin pine ribbon of the Aupori Forest. The forests, and the cattle farms that cover most of the rest of the peninsula, were once the preserve of gum diggers, who worked the area intensively early last century. The last twenty kilometres of the drive to Cape Reinga on the main road are the hardest, along an unsealed and twisty road shared with tour buses.

Tours from Mangonui Paradise Connexion Tours T0800/494 392, Wwww.paradisenz.co.nz. The standard bus tour (including pick-up from your accommodation) is $69, and there are 4WD customized tours for up to four people ($450 for one or two people; $600 for three, $700 for four).

Tours from Paihia Awesome Adventures T09/402 6985, W www.awesomenz.com. Bus trip aimed at those with an adventurous spirit. $105; $125 including lunch. Dune-Rider T 09/402 8681, Wwww.dunerider.co.nz. Personalized cape trips in a comfortable high-clearance 4WD vehicle, though the route does not differ from the bus route. All the usual stops plus pick-ups in Kaeo, Mangonui, Taipa and Awanui. They will also drop you off along the route and pick you up another day at no extra cost. $105, backpackers $89.10. Fullers T 09/402 7421, Wfboi.co.nz. Major operator running swanky, customdesigned buses on the sight-seeing-orientated Cape Reinga Wanderer, with sand tobogganing, swimming and shellﬁsh digging. Ten percent discount if you also sign up for one of their cruises. $105, $125 with lunch. Kings T 0800/222 979, Wwww.dolphincruises.co.nz. Fullers. Ten percent discount if you also sign up for one of their cruises. $105, plus $15 for picnic lunch. Northern Exposure Tours T0800/573 875, Wwww.northernexposure.co.nz. The cheapest of the standard cape trips. $95, backpackers $85. Salt Air T 0800/475 582, Wwww.saltair.co.nz. Fly to the Cape, landing at Waitiki, then covering the last section to Cape Reinga by 4WD, and visiting an east-coast beach and a west-coast beach. $375 including morning or afternoon tea.Con vullan

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Leave yourself plenty of time and remember not to park on a bend when you stop to take photos. If you’ve made it this far north, you’ll already be familiar with the paucity of facilities in rural Northland, so the Aupori Peninsula doesn’t come as much of a surprise.There’s sporadic accommodation along the way, ranging from some beautifully sited DOC campsites to motels, lodges and hostels. Most are reasonably priced, reflecting the fact that many visitors pass through without stopping; however, all are very busy immediately after Christmas. There are a few places to eat, though nothing stays open after around 8pm.You can refuel at Pukenui; petrol isn’t always available in Waitiki.

| Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga

Awanui AWANUI, 8km north of Kaitaia on SH1, is a dilapidated rural backwater notable chiefly for being the meeting point of the eastern and western roads north. The name is Maori for “Big River”, though all you’ll find is a bend in a narrow tidal creek that makes a relaxing setting for the daytime Big River Café, corner of SH10 and SH1, serving a good range of light meals like fish tortillas to nachos plus proper espresso. Almost all buses to Cape Reinga stop 1km north at the Ancient Kauri Kingdom (daily 8.30am–6pm; free; W www.ancientkauri.co.nz), a defunct dairy factory now operating as a sawmill, cutting and shaping huge peatpreserved kauri logs hauled out of swamps where they have lain for between 30,000 and 50,000 years.You can wander around parts of the factory and watch slabs of wood being fashioned into all manner of things. Predictably, the emphasis is on the shop but be sure to climb up to the mezzanine on the spiral staircase hewn out of the centre of the largest piece of swamp kauri trunk ever unearthed, a monster three and a half metres in diameter. Some 10km to the north of the Kauri Kingdom and 3km off SH1, the Gumdiggers Park Ancient Buried Kauri Forest, Heath Road (daily 9am– 5.30pm summer, to 4pm winter; $8), features an easy thirty-minute nature trail through shady manuka forest. Holes have been excavated to show the methods used for gum digging, huts illustrate the living conditions and there’s a small gecko house. The main southern entrance to Ninety Mile Beach, the Waipapakauri Ramp, is just south of the park’s turn-off.

Houhora and Pukenui Around 30km north of Awanui are the Aupori Peninsula’s two largest settlements: scattered HOUHORA, and the working fishing village of PUKENUI, 2km to the north, where good catches are to be had off the wharf. At Houhora, a three-kilometre side road turns east to Houhora Heads. The area around Houhora and Pukenui has the greatest concentration of places to stay on the Aupori Peninsula; the i-SITE visitor centre in Kaitaia can provide an updated list. Eating places are more limited; the best being the modern Pukenui Pacific on SH1 at Pukenui (T 09/409 8816), a good-value café/bar and takeaway with harbour views (kitchen closes around 8pm); and New Zealand’s northernmost pub, the Houhora Tavern, 2km to the north.

The Parengarenga Harbour, Te Kao and Waitiki Landing 216

Beyond Houhora, the road runs out of sight of the sea, though side roads give opportunities to reach the east coast, particularly at Rarawa Beach, 10km

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| Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga

north of Pukenui, where the pure white silica sand is backed by a shady streamside DOC campsite ($7), 4km off SH1. Its paradisiacal appeal is tempered by mosquitoes – bring plenty of insect repellent. The beach stretches over thirty kilometres north of Rarawa to the straggling Parengarenga Harbour, a place largely forgotten by most New Zealanders until 1985, when it was identified as the drop-off point for the limpet mines (delivered by yacht from New Caledonia) that were used to sabotage the Rainbow Warrior. Bends in the road occasionally reveal glimpses of the harbour’s southern headland. In late February and early March, hundreds of thousands of bar-tailed godwits turn the silica sands black as they gather for their 12,000km journey to Siberia. Insect repellent is also a must here. This whole area is strongly Maori. The Ngati Kuri people own much of the land and comprise the bulk of the population, particularly in the settlement of TE KAO, just south of the harbour on SH1. The only reason to stop here is for the twin-towered Ratana Temple, on the main road – one of the few remaining houses of the Ratana religion, which combines Christian teachings with elements of Maori culture and spiritual belief. The last place of any consequence before the land sinks into the ocean is WAITIKI LANDING, 21km from Cape Reinga. It is home to a shop, occasionally petrol, and the Waitiki Landing Holiday Complex (T 09/409 7508, E [emailprotected]; camping $7–18, dorms $20, en-suite cabins 2 ; book ahead Dec–Feb), which has received complaints, but has a campsite, timber-lined cabins, smokehouse, and restaurant/bar open until around 8pm. The complex also rents boards for riding the dunes ($10; 4hr) and can arrange tramper transport (see box, p.215). Alternatively you could join one of the very informative guided adventure trips run by Cape Reinga Adventures (T 09/409 8445, W www .capereingaadventures.co.nz), based 2km south of Waitiki Landing beside SH1. They’re a low-key outfit and extremely knowledgeable about the local area. All trips are customized, but might include a guided kayaking and fishing trip to the silica sands or a two-day combination of kayaking, fishing, horse trekking, snorkelling, dune surfing and a 4WD tour along Ninety Mile

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Reinga Lighthouse

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| Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga

Beach with simple accommodation back at their base; prices vary but are consistently good value. From Waitiki Landing, a dirt road twists 15km to the gorgeous and usually deserted seven-kilometre sweep of Spirits Bay (Kapowairua), where you’ll find a DOC campsite ($7) with pitches in manuka woods and cold showers. It’s also a favourite of large armies of mosquitoes – bring plenty of repellent. The main road continues towards Cape Reinga, and is currently gravel for the last 20km, it should be fully sealed by mid-2010. While construction is underway, the road is prone to closure after heavy rain because of the risk of vehicles becoming bogged in the mud. After 6km along this final stretch, you pass a turn-off to the Te Paki Stream entrance to Ninety Mile Beach, where there’s a small picnic area and parking, plus a twenty-minute hike to huge sand dunes ideal for sandboarding or tobogganing. Equipment can be rented at several places from Kaitaia northwards, as detailed; and also by calling ahead to Dave ’n’ Rose (T 09/409 8228).

Cape Reinga The last leg to Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua: the “leaping place of the spirits”) runs high through the hills before revealing the Tasman Sea and the huge dunes that foreshadow it. Magnificent seascapes unfold until you reach the Cape Reinga car park. A well-trodden ten-minute path heads from here to the Cape Reinga lighthouse, dramatically perched on a headland 165m above Colombia Bank, where the waves of the Tasman Sea meet the swirling currents of the Pacific Ocean in a boiling cauldron of surf. On clear days the view from here is stunning: east to the Surville Cliffs of North Cape, west to Cape Maria van Diemen, and north to the rocky Three Kings Islands, 57km offshore, which were named by Abel Tasman, who first came upon them on the eve of Epiphany 1643. The nearest shop and restaurant is back at Waitiki Landing, and the only place to stay is DOC’s Tapotupotu Bay campsite, turn off 3km south of Cape Reinga, from where it’s another 3km down an unsealed road ($7; toilets and

Cape Reinga Walks A couple of worthwhile short walks radiate from the Cape Reinga car park: both form part of the much longer Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway. All these walks are described in the DOC leaﬂet Cape Reinga and Te Paki Walks, containing a useful map of the area, available at Kaitaia and elsewhere. Beware of rip tides on all the beaches hereabouts and bear in mind the wild and unpredictable nature of the region’s weather.

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Sandy Bay (3km return; 200m ascent on the way back; 50min–90min). Eastbound walk through scrub and young cabbage trees to a pretty cove. You can continue to the lovely Tapotupotu Bay (a further 3km one way; 1–2hr). Te Werahi Beach (2.5km return; 200m ascent on the way back; 40min–1hr). Westbound walk gradually descending with Cape Maria van Diemen in your sights. Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway (38km one way; 2–3 days; constantly undulating). This spectacular and increasingly popular coastal

hike starts at Kapowairua (Spirits Bay), and heads west to Cape Reinga, continues to Cape Maria van Diemen, swings southeast to the northernmost stretch of Ninety Mile Beach, and then ﬁnally past the impressive dunes of Te Paki Stream. You need to be ﬁt and self-sufﬁcient: the only facilities are a couple of DOC campsites, and some ad hoc camping spots with no guaranteed water. Fresh water from streams is limited and you’ll need mosquito repellent. You ﬁnish a good way from where you start, but fortunately Waitiki Landing Holiday Complex offers a $30 drop-off and pick-up combo.

cold showers); beautifully sited where beach meets estuary. It is a popular lunchtime picnic stop for tour buses. To properly enjoy its serenity, insect repellent is essential.

| Hokianga Harbour

South of Kaitaia, the narrow, mangrove-flanked fissures of the Hokianga Harbour snake deep inland past tiny and almost moribund communities. For a few days’ relaxation, the tranquillity and easy pace of this rural backwater are hard to beat. From the southern shores, the harbour’s incredible, deep-blue waters beautifully set off the mountainous sand dunes of North Head. The dunes are best seen from the rocky promontory of South Head, high above the treacherous Hokianga Bar, or can be reached by boat for sand tobogganing. The high forest ranges immediately to the south make excellent hiking and horsetrekking territory, and the giant kauri of the Waipoua Forest are within easy striking distance. According to legend, it was from here that the great Polynesian explorer Kupe left Aotearoa to go back to his homeland in Hawaiiki during the tenth century, and the harbour thus became known as Hokianganui-a-Kupe, “the place of Kupe’s great return”. Cook saw the Hokianga Heads from the Endeavour in 1770 but didn’t realize what lay beyond, and it wasn’t until a missionary crossed the hill from the Bay of Islands in 1819 that Europeans became aware of the harbour’s existence. Catholics, Anglicans and Wesleyans soon followed, converting the local Ngapuhi, gaining their trust, intermarrying with them and establishing the well-integrated Maori and European communities that exist today. The Hokianga area soon rivalled the Bay of Islands in importance and notched up several firsts: European boat building began here in 1826; the first signal station opened two years later; and the first Catholic Mass was celebrated in the same year. With the demise of kauri felling and milling (see p.226), Hokianga became an economic backwater, with little industry, high unemployment and limited facilities. Over the last couple of decades, city dwellers, artists and craftspeople have snapped up bargain properties and moved up here in a small and fairly inconspicuous way, settling in Kohukohu on the north shore, Rawene, a short ferry ride away to the south, and the two larger but still small-time resorts of Opononi and Omapere, opposite the dunes near the harbour entrance. You’ll need to stock up with cash before exploring the harbour and kauri forests: there are no banks or ATMs between Kaitaia and Dargaville, 170km away to the south. Getting around is limited if you don’t have your own wheels. Paihiabased tour operator, Kings (p.188) runs Hokianga excursions that can often work as a viable form of transport; contact them for schedules and options. Likewise, Crossings Hokianga, SH12, Opononi (T 0800/687 836, W www .crossingshokianga.com) has a range of day-long cruises and tours ($69–119) that can double as handy transport for non-drivers, with various pick-up and drop-off possibilities.

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Hokianga Harbour

Kohukohu and the northern Hokianga Heading south from Kaitaia, the hilly SH1 twists its way through the forested Mangamuka Ranges for 40km to reach Mangamuka Bridge, the western entrance to the Omahuta Forest (see p.204), from where a narrower and equally

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tortuous road heads towards the north shore of the Hokianga Harbour. An alternative route from Kaitaia winds 23km south from the Ahipara road to tiny HEREKINO. Both routes converge on KOHUKOHU, a waterside cluster of century-old wooden houses on the northernmost arm of Hokianga Harbour. Kohukohu was once the hub of Hokianga’s kauri industry, but the subsequent years of decline have only partly been arrested by the recent influx of rat-race refugees. Four kilometres further east, Narrows Landing is the northern terminus of the Hokianga Vehicle Ferry (see below). Practicalities

| Hokianga Harbour

The beauty of staying on the north side of the harbour is that there’s almost nothing to do except relax. There’s no better place to do just that than A The Tree House, 2km west of the ferry terminus (T 09/405 5855, W www.treehouse .co.nz; camping $16, dorms $24, double 2 , cottage 4 ). Accommodation is scattered among the trees in two spacious dorms, double and twin cabins with sundecks and a well-equipped house bus in a macadamia orchard. Kohukohu’s best eating is A The Waterline, Kohukohu Road (kitchen closes 5pm Sun–Thurs, 8pm Fri & Sat), a licensed café fabulously sited on stilts over the water with panoramic harbour views from the deck. They serve tasty breakfasts, snacks and lunches, as well as pizza and great coffee, and often have live music such as blues sessions. There’s also a traditional pub that serves meals, and a general store with a modest range of groceries. For a personalized look at the work of artisan woodturner Neville Walker, who works with preserved swamp kauri up to 45,000 years old, and artist Emma Walker, who utilizes New Zealand ferns and other natural materials to decorate this beautiful timber, contact them on T 09/401 9873 or through W www.kaurigifts.co.nz to arrange a free, informal private tour.

Rawene and around Delightful RAWENE occupies the tip of Herd’s Point, a peninsula roughly halfway up the harbour. Though almost isolated by the mudflats at low tide, Rawene’s strategic position made it an obvious choice for the location of a timber mill, which contributed material for the town’s attractive wooden buildings, some perched on stilts out over the water. The town’s only significant distraction, Clendon House, Clendon Esplanade (Nov–April Sat–Mon 10am–4pm; $5), was the last residence of British-born US Consul James Clendon, a pivotal figure in the early life of the colony. The house itself is mostly pit-sawn kauri construction. Downstairs, one room beside the veranda has been retained as the post office it once was. Clendon Esplanade leads to the Mangrove Walkway, a pleasant fifteen-minute return boardwalk through the coastal shallows with boards telling of inter-tidal life and the sawmill which once operated here.

Hokianga Vehicle Ferry

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Apart from a lengthy drive around the head of the harbour, the only way across the Hokianga is on the Hokianga Vehicle Ferry (car & driver $14 one way, $19 return, pedestrians $2 each way). This shuttles from Narrows Landing, 4km east of Kohukohu on the northern shores, to Rawene in the south, a journey of ﬁfteen minutes. Departures (starting around 7.30am) are on the hour southbound (to 8pm) and on the half-hour northbound (to 7.30pm).

Detouring about 40km northeast of Rawene brings you to the Wairere Boulders (daily during daylight hours; T 09/401 9935, W www.wairereboulders .co.nz; $10), a privately run park encompassing huge 2.8 million-year-old basalt rocks with natural fluting making them appear like carved corrugated iron. The main self-guided loop track takes 40 minutes; with several additional loops plus a spur trail leading through the rainforested valley. Approaching from SH12, the first 6km of road is sealed, but the next 8km is down a rough, narrow and twisting loose gravel road. From here, follow the signs right into McDonnell Road for a further 1km. Admission is paid into an honesty box in an information shed where you can pick up a trail map, and is good all day.

| Hokianga Harbour

Wairere Boulders

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The main thoroughfare passes several places to stay, the best being The Postmaster’s Lodgings, 1 Parnell St (T 09/405 7676, W www.rawene.co.nz; 4 ), a B&B in a lovely century-old house with harbour views. Dinner is available, or you can BBQ on the sunny deck. The hilltop Rawene Motor Camp, Marmon Street, 1.5km from the ferry landing (T 09/405 7720, W www.rawenemotorcamp.co.nz; camping $12, dorms $18, chalet cabins 1 ; no credit cards), has harbour views, a pool, tent sites and self-catering cabins in bush enclaves. For eating, your first stop should be the daytime, licensed A Boatshed Café, on Clendon Esplanade, a stone’s throw from the ferry, which is built out over the water and offers magazines to read on the sunny deck as you tuck into gourmet pizza slices or home-made muffins, slices and soups and the best espresso for miles around; they also sell high-quality local arts and crafts.

Opononi and Omapere The two small resorts of OPONONI and OMAPERE, some 20km west of Rawene, comprise little more than a roadside string of houses running seamlessly for 4km along the southern shore of the Hokianga Harbour, with great views across to the massive sand dunes on the north side. Kiwis of a certain age can tell you about Opononi and the summer of 1955– 56 when a wild bottlenose dolphin, dubbed “Opo”, started playing with the kids in the shallows and performing tricks with beach balls. At the time dolphin-watching trips were decades away. Christmas holidaymakers jammed the narrow dirt roads; film crews were dispatched; protective laws were drafted; and Auckland musicians wrote and recorded the novelty song Opo The Crazy Dolphin in a day. Their tape arrived at the radio station for its first airing just as news came in that Opo had been shot under mysterious circumstances. No one ever took responsibility, but amid the national mourning the song became a hit anyway. Opononi has dined out on its fifteen minutes of fame ever since, though the only concrete reminders are a statue of Opo in the car park outside the Opononi Resort Hotel and her grave next door outside the War Memorial Hall. To get a sense of the frenzied enthusiasm for Opo, head to Omapere where the local museum inside the visitor centre shows a short video in classic 1950s-documentary style. Practicalities

In Omapere, the Hokianga i-SITE visitor centre (daily: Oct–April 8.30am–5pm; May–Sept 9am–5pm; T 09/405 8869, W www.hokianga.co. nz), stocks information on the immediate area and Waipoua Forest (see p.223), and can book accommodation, which is in good supply (book well ahead for high summer).

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Eating options are improving: in Opononi look out for Opo Takeaways (daily 10am–7pm, later in summer), and the Opononi Hotel, which offers the district’s best-value eating, both bar food and à la carte. In Omapere the small Harbourside Café (by the BP garage) dishes up simple, cheap fare, while the Copthorne Hotel & Resort serves good food in its elegant yet reasonably priced restaurant, and has a bar serving bistro meals. Both have great views over the lawns and harbour to the sand dunes. Accommodation

| Hokianga Harbour

Copthorne Hotel & Resort SH12, Omapere T 0800/267 846, Wwww.millenniumhotels.com. The best of the hotels, set opposite the dunes, with a solar-heated pool, bar and licensed restaurant and a range of accommodation including some beautifully appointed waterside rooms. 6 Globetrekkers Lodge SH12, Omapere T09/405 8183, E [emailprotected]. Relaxing and very well-kept hostel with some harbour views. The ﬁve- and six-bed dorms and doubles are all spacious and airy, and there’s a couple of nice cabins in the grounds. TV is intentionally absent

and the evening BBQ usually bring everyone together. Tent sites $10, dorms $20, rooms 2 McKenzie’s Accommodation 4 Pioneers Walk, Omapere T09/405 8068, [emailprotected]. Beachside options in either a spacious room rented as a double or a twin, with a separate bathroom and private entrance, or a s/c two-bedroom cottage. B&B 5 , cottage 5 Opononi Beach Holiday Park SH12, Opononi T09/405 8791, [emailprotected]. Spacious if basic harbourside campsite. Camping $11–15, cabins 2 , self-catering cabins 3

Around Opononi and Omapere

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Boats ply the harbour to the sand dunes – though the vistas from the south side are so striking that it’s enough just to visit the viewpoints. The most notable of these are immediately west of Omapere: Arai te Uru Reserve, along Signal Station Road, and the magical Pakia Hill, on SH12. Hokianga Express water taxi (T 09/405 8872 or 021/405 872; $20) operate from 10am daily from Oponomi wharf and will drop you off with sandboards and pick you up a couple of hours later. Tours run by Footprints Waipoua (p.224), through the Kauri forests 22km south, depart from the Copthorne Hotel; pick-ups from accommodation elsewhere in Opononi and Omapere are available. Around 8km southeast of Opononi, Labyrinth Woodworks, Waiotemarama Gorge Road, (daily 9am–5pm, beep the horn if no one answers; T 09/405 4581, W www.nzanity.co.nz), is one of the region’s better craft shops, whose wares include carved kauri pieces and excellent woodblock prints. There are also mind-bending puzzles to play with and a maturing hedge maze. Labyrinth marks the start of the Waiotemarama Bush Walk (2km loop), the best and most popular of the short walks in the district, running through a lovely fern-, palm- and kauri-filled valley. A ten-minute walk leads you to a waterfall with a small swimming hole, and after a further ten minutes you reach the first kauri. Another popular outing is along a section of the Hokianga– Kai Iwi Coastal Track (8km one way; 3hr), which heads from Hokianga South Head along Kaikai Beach and up the Waimamaku River back to SH12. More ambitious walkers could set two or three days aside for the entire Hokianga–Kai Iwi Coastal Track, a fifty-kilometre coastal trek that continues south from the Hokianga to Maunganui Bluff and on to Kai Iwi Lakes (see p.225). Details are available in DOC’s Waipoua & Trounson Kauri Forests leaflet and from visitor centres. There are no facilities along the track – take all the drinking water and food you’ll need. But sure to camp over the dunes and not the seaward side, to avoid being washed away by rapidly rising tides. There is

currently no bus service through the Hokianga and Waipoua region, although Magic Bus (p.36) loops past Rawene, Omapere and Tane Mahuta en route from Paihia to Auckland.

| The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour

Northland, Auckland and the Coromandel Peninsula were once covered in mixed forest dominated by the mighty kauri (see box, p.226), the world’s second-largest tree. By the early twentieth century, rapacious Europeans had nearly felled the lot, the only extensive pockets remaining in the Waipoua and Trounson kauri forests south of the Hokianga Harbour. Though small stands of kauri can be found all over Northland, three-quarters of all the surviving mature trees grow in these two small forests, which between them cover barely 100 square kilometres. Walks provide access to the more celebrated examples, which dwarf the surrounding tataire, kohekohe and towai trees. This area is home to the Te Roroa people who traditionally used the kauri sparingly. Simple tools made felling and working these huge trees a difficult task, and one reserved for major projects such as large war canoes. Once the Europeans arrived with metal tools, bullock trains, wheels and winches, clear felling became easier, and most of the trees had gone by the end of the nineteenth century. The efforts of several campaigning organizations eventually bore fruit in 1952, when much of the remaining forest was designated the Waipoua Sanctuary. It’s now illegal to fell a kauri except in specified circumstances, such as culling a diseased or dying tree, or when constructing a new ceremonial canoe. Driving through miles of farmland it’s often hard to imagine the same landscape covered in dense forest. This is true of the lands to the south around the muddy shores of Kaipara Harbour, a labyrinth of mangrove-choked inlets, drowned valleys and small beaches that constitutes New Zealand’s largest harbour. The harbour once unified this quarter of Northland, with sailboats plying its waters and linking the dairy farming and logging towns on its shores. Kauri was shipped out from the largest northern town, Dargaville, though the fragile boats all too often foundered on the unpredictable Kaipara Bar. Many eventually washed up on Ripiro Beach, which just pips Ninety Mile Beach to the title of New Zealand’s longest, running for 108km.

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The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour

Waipoua and Trounson kauri forests South of the Hokianga Harbour, SH12 twists and turns through nearly 20km of mature kauri in the Waipoua Kauri Forest. Just after you enter the forest you reach a small car park, from where it’s a three-minute walk to New Zealand’s mightiest tree, the 2000-year-old Tane Mahuta, “Lord of the Forest”. A vast wall of bark 6m wide rises nearly 18m to the lowest branches, covered in epiphytes. A kilometre or so further south on SH12, a ten-minute track leads to a clearing where three paths split off to notable trees: the shortest (5min return) runs to the Four Sisters, relatively slender kauri all growing close together; a second path (30min return) winds among numerous big trees to Te Matua Ngahere, the “Father of the Forest”, the second-largest tree in New Zealand. The third path, the Yakas Track (3km return; 1hr), leads to Cathedral Grove, a dense conglomeration of trees, the

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| The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour Tane

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Mahuta kauri tree, Waipoua Kauri Forest

largest being the Yakas Kauri, named after veteran bushman Nicholas Yakas. Footprints Waipoua (T 09/405 8207, W www.footprintswaipoua.co.nz) runs excellent walks to the kauri trees from Omapere (p.222). The pick of their trips is the Twilight Encounter ($75) through the forest to the two largest trees. You might see giant kauri snails, eels and ruru (native owl), but the emphasis is more on listening to and sensing the forest under the cover of darkness leavened with a strong Maori spiritual component – story, song and music.

The Kai Iwi Lakes, 11km west of SH12 and 20km south of Trounson, are a real change, with pine woods running down to fresh, crystal-blue waters fringed by silica-white sand. All three are dune lakes fed by rainwater and with no visible outlet. Though the largest, Taharoa, is less than a kilometre across, and Waikere and Kai Iwi are barely a hundred metres long, they constitute the deepest and some of the largest dune lakes in the country. People flock here in the summer to swim, fish and water-ski, but outside the first weeks in January you can usually find a quiet spot. Shallow and consequently warmer than the sea, they’re good for an early-season dip. There’s no public transport to the lakes, but you’ll find accommodation at the large and well-equipped Kai Iwi Lakes Campground (T 09/439 8360; camping $10) which comprises the Pine Beach site on the gently shelving shores of Taharoa Lake, with water, toilets and cold showers; and the more intimate Promenade Point site with just long-drop toilets.

| The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour

Kai Iwi Lakes

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Far and away the best eating in the area is the vaulted, barn-like A Morrell’s Café, 8km north of Tane Mahuta on SH12 (closed Mon mid-Oct–Easter), where you can enjoy all-day breakfasts under $14, light meals like gourmet burgers, wraps and salads (all under $10) and excellent coffee, or browse for handcrafted jewellery, silk scarves and local contemporary art. Some 15km south of Tane Mahuta is the nearest formal accommodation, Waipoua Lodge, SH12 (T 09/439 0422, W www.waipoualodge.co.nz; 9), with luxurious apartments converted from farm buildings – woolshed, stables, tack rooms and calf pen – in the tranquil grounds of a gracious and beautifully restored kauri villa. It’s pricey but thoroughly relaxing, with a lounge, sunroom library and secluded hot tub in the grounds; you can dine on exquisite evening meals using mostly local produce. Immediately south of Waipoua Lodge, a side road leads 7km to the Trounson Kauri Park, a small but superb stand of kauri where the Trounson Kauri Walk (40min loop) weaves though lovely rainforest. In 1997, Trounson was turned into a “mainland island” (see Native Wildlife colour section) in order to foster North Island brown kiwi survival. Numbers are up significantly, and you’ve a good chance of seeing them – along with weta and glow-worms – on two-hour guided night walks (every night, weather permitting, $20). These leave from the Kauri Coast Top 10 Holiday Park, 4km southeast of Trounson (T 0800/807 200, W www.kauricoasttop10.co.nz; camping $20, standard cabins 2 , self-contained cabins 4 , motel units 4 ; book ahead Christmas–Feb). There’s also a simple but popular DOC campsite ($10), right by the kauri forest, which is equipped with kitchen, toilets and hot showers. A further 9km south of the Trounson turn-off, Aranga Coast Road branches west to Maunganui Bluff (460m), the northern limit of Ripiro Beach (see p.227). Budget accommodation is available at the appealingly rural Kaihu Farm hostel, SH12, 4km south of Aranga Coast Road (T 09/439 4004, W www .kaihufarm.co.nz; tent site $15, dorm $21, rooms 2 ), with three- and five-bed dorms. From here it is a seven-kilometre walk to the Trounson kauris, and you might spot glow-worms in the bush.

Dargaville and around Sleepy DARGAVILLE, 30km south of Kai Iwi Lakes, is primarily a service town for the region’s farming community, traditionally dairy-based but

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The kauri and its uses

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| The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour 226

The kauri (agathis australis) ranks alongside the sequoias of California as one of the largest trees in existence. Unlike the sequoias, which are useless as furniture timber, kauri produce beautiful wood, a fact that hastened their demise and spawned the industries that dominated New Zealand’s economy in the latter half of the nineteenth century. The kauri is a type of pine which now grows only in New Zealand, though it once also grew in Australia and Southeast Asia, where it still has close relations. Identiﬁable remains of kauri forests are found all over New Zealand, but by the time humans arrived on the scene its range had contracted to Northland, Auckland, the Coromandel Peninsula and northern Waikato. Individual trees can live over 2000 years, reaching 50m in height and 20m in girth, ﬁnally toppling over as the rotting core becomes too weak to support its immense weight.

Kauri loggers Maori have long used mature kauri for dugout canoes, but it was the “rickers” (young trees) that ﬁrst drew the attention of European loggers since they formed perfect spars for sailing ships. The bigger trees soon earned an unmatched reputation for their durable, easy-to-work and blemish-free wood, with its straight, ﬁne grain. Loggers’ ingenuity was taxed to the limit by the difﬁculty of getting such huge logs out of the bush. On easier terrain, bullock wagons with up to twelve teams were lashed together to haul the logs onto primitive roads or tramways. Horse-turned winches were used on steeper ground and, where water could be deployed to transport the timber, dams were constructed from hewn logs. In narrow valleys and gullies all over Northland and the Coromandel, loggers constructed kauri dams up to 20m high and 60m across, with trap doors at the base. Trees along the sides of the valley were felled while the dam was ﬁlling, then the dam was opened to ﬂush the ﬂoating trunks down the valley to inlets where the logs were rafted up and towed to the mills.

Gum diggers Once an area had been logged, the gum diggers typically moved in. Like most pines, kauri exudes a thick resin to cover any scars inﬂicted on it, and huge accretions form on the sides of trunks and in globules around the base, further hardening off in time. In pre-European times, Maori chewed the gum, made torches from it to attract ﬁsh at night and burned the powdered resin to form a pigment used for moko (traditional tattoos). Once Pakeha got in on the act, it was exported as a raw material for furniture varnishes, linoleum, denture moulds and the “gilt” edging on books. When it could no longer be found on the ground, diggers – mostly Dalmatian, but also Maori, Chinese and Malaysian – thrust long poles into the earth and hooked out pieces with bent rods; elsewhere, the ground was dug up and sluiced to recover the gum. Almost all New Zealand gum was exported, but by the early twentieth century synthetic resins had captured the gum market. Kauri gum is still considered one of the ﬁnest varnishes for musical instruments, and occasional accidental ﬁnds supply such specialist needs.

burgeoning into the country’s top kumara-growing district. The town was founded as a port in 1872, on the strongly tidal but navigable Northern Wairoa River, by Australian Joseph McMullen Dargaville. Ships came to load kauri logs and transport gum (see box above) extracted by Dalmatian settlers who, by the early part of the twentieth century, formed a sizeable portion of the community.

The Town

West of Dargaville a minor road runs 14km to Baylys Beach, a conglomeration of mostly holiday homes on a central section of Ripiro Beach, the longest driveable beach in New Zealand. But beware: the sands of Ripiro Beach are renowned for their mobility, with several metres of beach often being shifted by a single tide, and huge areas being reclaimed over the centuries; the anchors or prows of long-lost wrecks periodically reappear through the sand. As elsewhere on the West Coast, tidal rips and holes make swimming dangerous and there are no beach patrols. Beach driving is no less fraught with danger and shouldn’t be undertaken without prior local consultation; vehicles frequently get stranded. Nevertheless, it’s a fine place for long walks, and spotting seals and penguins in winter. When easterlies are blowing the coastline is adorned with kites, flown out from the shore and drawing fishing lines for anything up to a kilometre. They’re left for twenty minutes or so then hauled in, often heavy with fish. Practicalities

Two bus services stop on Kapia Street in Dargaville: Westcoaster services run here to/from Whangarei twice daily; and Main Coachline (T 09/278 8070) runs direct from Dargaville to Auckland six times a week, and from Auckland to Dargaville five times a week. Tickets for both are available from the i-SITE visitor centre, 69 Normanby St (mid-Dec–Feb Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat &

| The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour

Baylys Beach and Ripiro Beach

NORTHL AND

The only specific sight is the Dargaville Museum (daily 9am–4pm; $10), in the hilltop Harding Park, 2km west of town and marked by two masts rescued from the Rainbow Warrior (see box, p.206). It contains extensive displays of artefacts recovered from the shifting dunes, which occasionally reveal old shipwrecks. The only pre-European artefact is the Ngati Whatua waka, which lay buried under the sands of the North Head of the Kaipara Harbour from 1809 until 1972, and is a rare example of a canoe hewn entirely with stone tools. A fine collection of kauri gum gives pride of place to an 84kg piece, reputedly the largest ever found. At the western end of town, at the Woodturners Kauri Gallery & Working Studio, 4 Murdoch St/SH12 (T 09/439 4975, W www.thewoodturnersstudio .co.nz; daily 9am–dark), leading woodturner Rick Taylor demonstrates what can be done with the extraordinarily varied grains and colours of kauri, sells all manner of kauri products, and runs courses for those prepared to dedicate a day or more.

Baylys Beach and Ripiro Beach Tours A couple of operators run inexpensive beach tours in specially designed vehicles, and some offer quad biking on the dunes or cruising on the water. Call in advance as minimum numbers apply, and prices vary depending on customized itineraries; outside the peak summer season you may ﬁnd little happening. Pete’s Safari Tours T 09/439 0515, Wwww.petesafari.co.nz. Small personalized tours are taken along Baylys Beach in a Landrover, visiting the Kai Iwi Lakes and the kauri forests, and overnight trips to Pouto Point, surfcasting for trevally and kahwai. Taylor Made Tours T 09/439 1576. A specially designed six-wheeled truck carrying up to ten passengers operates along a wild and exposed section of Ripiro Beach to the disused Kaipara lighthouse, taking in shipwrecks on the way.

227

Sun 10am–4pm; March to mid-Dec Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am– 4pm; T 09/439 8360, W www.kauricoast.co.nz), which also has comprehensive accommodation listings for the region and Internet access. Dargaville has a reasonable range of places to stay, though you might prefer the sands of Baylys Beach. Eating in Dargaville is somewhat limited, though you won’t starve. NORTHL AND

Accommodation and eating

| The Kauri Forests and the northern Kaipara Harbour

Baylys Beach Holiday Park 24 Seaview Rd, Baylys Beach T09/439 6349, Wwww.baylysbeach.co.nz. Well-run place, a short walk from the beach. Some of the cabins are en suite and the cottage sleeps seven; there are also quad bikes for rent. Camping $12–13, caravans 1 , cabins 1 , units 4 , cottage 5 Blah Blah Blah 101 Victoria St, Dargaville. Good licensed café specializing in Dargaville’s famed kumara, incorporated in starters like kumara and mussel chowder ($10.50) followed by delicious mains (all $20–28) such as kumara, cashew and blue cheese cannelloni. Dargaville Holiday Park 10 Onslow St, Dargaville T 0800/114 441, Wwww.kauriparks.co.nz. Combined campsite and hostel only 10min walk from town, providing a good range of cabins and units set in secluded park-like grounds. Camping $14, cabins 1 , units 3 The Funky Fish 34 Seaview Rd, Baylys Beach T 09/439 8883. A groovy modern

café and bar where you’ll ﬁnd great ﬁsh and chips, a speciality beer-battered dory with chargrilled lemon and salad, plus a range of burgers, baguettes and a varied à la carte evening menu, and a great garden bar. Closed Mon; reserve in advance for dinner in summer and for Sun lunch all year. Greenhouse Hostel 13 Portland St, Dargaville T09/439 6342, [emailprotected]. Somewhat old-fashioned hostel in a former 1920s schoolhouse in the town centre. Friendly and well managed. Dorms $21, cabins 2 Kauri House Lodge Bowen St, Dargaville T09/439 8082, [emailprotected]. The town’s grandest rooms in an engagingly low-key yet vast kauri villa with big en-suite rooms, a billiard room, library and swimming pool. 7 Northern Wairoa Hotel Corner of of Victoria St and Hokianga Rd, Dargaville T09/439 8923. Simple, old-fashioned but well-kept pub rooms (some en suite) in a 1922 hotel, with bargain pub meals. 3

Matakohe and the Kauri Museum From Dargaville, SH12 runs 45km south to Matakohe, passing through countryside that is mostly flat except for the knobby Tokatoka Peak, 17km away. Panoramic views unfold from the 180-metre summit of this extinct volcanic plug, reached in ten breathless minutes from a trailhead 1km off SH12 near the Tokatoka pub. If there’s one museum you must see in the north it’s the Kauri Museum, Church Road (daily: Nov–April 8.30am–5.30pm; May–Oct 9am–5pm; $12; W www.kauri-museum.com), on the outskirts of the village of MATAKOHE, 45km south of Dargaville. One of the best museums in the country, and deserving at least a couple of hours, it explains the way the kauri’s timber and its valuable gum shaped the lives of pioneers in Northland. The displays focus on the makeshift settlements around logging camps, the gumfields, and the lives of merchants who were among the few who could afford to buy the fine kauri furniture or beautifully carved gum on show. Practicalities

228

If you’re travelling by public transport, visiting the museum will require staying overnight. Try Matakohe House (T 09/431 7091, E [emailprotected]; 5), a big, inviting B&B right by the museum with simply furnished en-suite rooms opening out onto a veranda and a café with Internet access serving food throughout the day. Campers should head to the Matakohe Top 10 Holiday Park T 0800/431 6431, E [emailprotected]; camping $14, caravans 1 ,

cabins 2, s/c units 4, motels 5), a small, hillside campsite 500m beyond the museum on a site offering great harbour views.

Travel details

Ferries Kohukohu to: Rawene (hourly; 20min). Opua to: Okiato (every 10–20min; 15min). Paihia to: Russell by passenger ferry (every 20min; 15min). Rawene to: Kohukohu (hourly; 20min).

| Travel details

The two major bus operators which serve Northland–InterCity (W www.intercitycoach.co.nz) and Northliner (W www.northliner.co.nz) – are owned by the same company. They still produce separate timetables, but in the far north one bus serves both companies. There is really only one route, from Auckland (SkyCity terminal) up the eastern side of the peninsula calling at Whangarei, Paihia and Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands, then ﬁnishing at Kaitaia; a jump-on-jump-off pass costs $50 one way. Hokianga Harbour can be reached with Magic Bus (p.36), which does an anti clockwise loop around the North Island. There is also one shortrange operator from Auckland: Main Coachlines (T 09/278 8070), who also serve Warkworth and continue on to Dargaville. Auckland to: Dargaville (5 per week, not Wed or Sat; 3hr); Kaitaia (1 daily; 7hr); Kerikeri (3–5 daily; 5hr); Mangonui (1 daily; 6hr 30min); Orewa (5–7 daily; 30min); Paihia (4–6 daily; 4hr 20min); Waipu (4–6 daily; 2hr 30min); Warkworth (6–8 daily; 1hr); Whangarei (5–8; 3hr). Dargaville to: Auckland (6 per week, not Wed or Sat; 3hr); Whangarei (2 Mon–Fri; 1hr). Kaitaia to: Auckland (1 daily; 7hr). Kerikeri to: Auckland (3–5 daily; 5hr); Paihia (3–5 daily; 20min). Mangonui to: Auckland (1 daily; 6hr 30min). Paihia to: Auckland (4–6 daily; 4hr 20min); Kaitaia

(1 daily; 2hr); Kerikeri (3–5 daily; 20min); Mangonui (1 daily; 1hr 20min); Whangarei (4–6 daily; 1hr 15min). Waipu to: Auckland (4–6 daily; 2hr 30min); Whangarei (4–6 daily; 30min). Warkworth to: Auckland (6–8 daily; 1hr). Whangarei to: Auckland (5–8 daily; 3hr); Dargaville (2 Mon–Fri; 1hr); Paihia (4–6 daily; 1hr 15min); Warkworth (4–6 daily; 1hr 45min).

NORTHL AND

Buses

Flights Northland has a limited number of ﬂights and since distances are relatively short you’re unlikely to need them, except for ﬂights from Whangarei to Great Barrier Island. Bay of Islands (Paihia/Kerikeri) to: Auckland (5 daily; 40min); Wellington (1 weekdays; 1hr 30min). Kaitaia to: Auckland (1–2 daily; 50min). Whangarei to: Auckland (7–10 daily; 35min); Great Barrier Island (2 weekly; 30min); Wellington (1 Mon–Fri; 1hr 30min).

229

3 WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Western North Island

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CHAPTER 3

Highlights

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Raglan Sociable harbourside town within easy reach of some of New Zealand’s ﬁnest surf. See p.243

Waitomo Abseil, squeeze or blackwater raft into labyrinthine caves, illuminated by glow-worms. See p.248

| Highlights

Egmont National Park Easy walks and steep hikes to the conical summit of the North Island’s second highest peak. See p.264

Whanganui River Take a three-day canoe trip through the green canyons of New Zealand’s longest navigable river. See p.271

Kapiti Island Spend the day marvelling at the abundance of rare native birds in this island sanctuary, or stay overnight to go kiwi spotting. See p.290

232 Mount

Egmont (Taranaki)

uch of the Western North Island is ignored by visitors, who make a beeline for the wonders of Waitomo Caves and the graceful Mount Taranaki. In fact, there’s much of interest in the area, which is best explored at a leisurely pace. Much of the region’s appeal is tied to its extraordinary history of pre-European settlement and post-European conflict. The region is deeply rooted in Maori legend and history, for it was on the west coast, at Kawhia, that the Tainui people first landed in New Zealand; the Tainui canoe in which they arrived is buried there, and the waterside tree it was moored to lives on. Kawhia was also the birthplace of Te Rauparaha, the great Maori chief who led his people from here down the coast to Kapiti Island and on to the South Island, to escape the better-armed tribes of the Waikato. Approaching the region from the north, you arrive in the Waikato, important farming country centred on the workaday provincial capital, Hamilton. There are few attractions here amid fields of cows and sheep, so head to the coast and Raglan, a laid-back town with world-class surf and a great selection of places to stay and eat. South of the Waikato is the King Country, which took its name from the King Movement (see p.247), and was the last significant area in New Zealand to succumb to European colonization. Today it contains a number of stalwart communities coexisting with some extraordinary natural features – most famously the creamy limestone of Waitomo Caves, where unusual rock formations surmount a netherworld of glow-worm-filled caverns. Further down the coast, the giant thumbprint peninsula of Taranaki is dominated by the symmetrical cone of Mount Taranaki, within the Egmont National Park. At its foot, New Plymouth warrants a visit for its excellent contemporary art gallery and access to a multitude of surf beaches. Inland from here, the farming town of Taumarunui isn’t much in itself, but it is one of the main jumping-off points for spectacular multi-day canoe trips along the Whanganui River, through the heart of the verdant Whanganui National Park. The river runs down to the coastal city of Wanganui, a small, ordered place whose river-port past can be relived on a restored paddle steamer. Just 60km to the southeast, the university city of Palmerston North is at the centre of the rich farming region of Manawatu, and has some interesting Art Deco and modern architecture and a fine museum. A cluster of communities line the highway to the south, the former flax-weaving town of Foxton providing most interest until you reach the Kapiti Coast, where Paraparaumu is the launch point for boat trips to the bird sanctuary on Kapiti Island.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

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Transport through the Western North Island is piecemeal. The rail line runs partly through the region, with a single daytime service in both directions between Auckland and Wellington. There are also frequent commuter rail services from Wellington as far as Paraparaumu.

Auckland’s southern motorway turns to ordinary highway around Huntly, on the shores of the Waikato River. Having gazed across the river at the twin 150metre-high chimneys of New Zealand’s largest coal-fired power station, you may wish to pay a brief visit to the small but well-presented Waikato Coalfields Museum, 26 Harlock Place (daily 10am–4pm; $5), focusing on early life in the Waikato coalfield. The most culturally significant spot in these parts is NGARUAWAHIA, 14km further south on SH1, a farming centre at the junction of the Waikato and Waipa rivers. Both rivers were important Maori canoe routes and the area has long held great significance for Maori: it is here that the King Movement (see p.247) has its roots. The town is home to the Maori king and was the scene of the signing of the Raupatu Land Settlement (1995), whereby the government agreed to compensate Tainui for land confiscated in the 1860s. The Maori heritage is most evident on Regatta Day (the closest Saturday to March 17) when, watched by the Maori king, a parade of great war canoes takes place along the two rivers, and hurdle races and the like are run at the Turangawaewae Marae (open only on Regatta Day) on River Road, off SH1 just north of the river bridge. The rest of the year is significantly less satisfying for tourists as you can only view the marae through the perimeter fence, made of the dead trunks of tree ferns interspersed with robustly sculpted red posts and a couple of finely carved entranceways. From these you can glimpse the strikingly carved and decorated Mahinarangi House, housing the Maori throne; Turongo House, the official residence of the monarch; and the Kimi-ora Cultural Complex, with its conspicuous octagonal roof. On the opposite side of the river and road, on Eyre Street, is Turangawaewae House, also only viewable from the fence. Built in 1920 as the intended home of the Maori parliament it is an ordinary Edwardian-style stucco building, except for red-, black- and white-painted doors, carved barge boards and pou (guardian post). Twenty-three kilometres west of Ngaruawahia, on Waingaro Road at the junction with SH22, is the Waingaro Hot Springs complex (daily 9am–10pm; $8). Though run-down, it still gets busy in the summer.

| South from Auckland to Hamilton

South from Auckland to Hamilton

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Most bus services are run by InterCity/Newmans, though there are a number of fairly short runs operated by competing companies, including Dalroy Express (T 06/759 0197, W www.dalroytours.co.nz; Auckland–Hamilton–Otorohanga–Te Kuiti–New Plymouth–Hawera), Go Kiwi (T 0800/446 549, W www.go-kiwi.co.nz; Hamilton–Auckland), Guthreys Express (T 0800/732 528, W www.guthreys.co.nz; Auckland–Hamilton–Rotorua) and Waitomo Wanderer (T 0508/926 337, W www .waitomotours.co.nz; Rotorua–Otorohanga–Waitomo Caves).

235

Hamilton

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Hamilton

Most visitors pass straight through HAMILTON, 127km south of Auckland, but it’s a pretty enough place, well sited on the banks of the languid green Waikato River and surrounded by parks. It’s worth devoting a couple of hours to the Museum of Art and History and the tranquil Hamilton Gardens, and taking a paddle-steamer cruise on the river. And as befits New Zealand’s fourth-largest city, there’s a decent-sized student population, and lively termtime nightlife. In mid-June the town hosts the annual four-day Fieldays festival (W www.fieldays.co.nz), the largest agricultural field day in the southern hemisphere, at Mystery Creek Events Centre just outside the city. Archeological evidence indicates that the Tainui settlement of Kirikirioa had existed on the current site of Hamilton for at least two hundred years before the Europeans arrived in the 1830s. The newcomers named their settlement after John Fane Charles Hamilton, an officer of the Royal Navy who died, bravely or foolishly (depending whose interpretation you believe), at the Battle of Gate Pa, near Tauranga, a few months earlier; a fictionalized account of the events leading up to his death appears in Maurice Shadbolt’s excellent novel The House of Strife. The river remained the only supply route for the city until the railway came in 1878, effectively opening up the country to more European immigration, farming and commercial expansion.

Arrival, information and city transport Super Shuttle (T 0800/727 747), connects Hamilton’s airport to the city for $20. The train station is on Fraser Street (T 07/846 8353) in the suburb of Frankton, a twenty-minute walk west of the centre, or a #8 bus ride from the Transport Centre, on the corner of Anglesea and Bryce streets, which is the hub for local and long-distance buses. Bus and train tickets are sold at the i-SITE visitor centre (Mon–Thurs 7am–6pm, Fri 7am–7pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–7pm; T 07/839 3580, W www.waikatonz.com), where there are left luggage lockers and a taxi rank.The DOC office is three minutes’ walk north at Level 5, 73 Rostrevor St (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm; T 07/858 1000). Most of Hamilton’s attractions are within walking distance of the centre; for those further afield (including Cambridge, Te Awamutu, Raglan and Paeroa), pick up the free Busit timetable or call the information line on T 0800/800 401; one-way fares are $1.80, and there’s a $4.60 all-day pass. Regional bus companies (see p.235) run scheduled services to neighbouring cities.

Accommodation Hamilton specializes in business accommodation for farm company reps in motels, mostly lining Ulster Street. B&Bs are thin on the ground and there are limited hostels, so it may be worth basing yourself in Raglan (see p.243).

236

Bavaria Motel 203–207 Ulster St T0800/839 2520, Wwww.bavariamotel.co.nz. Large, comfortable units within 8min walk of the city. Units have DVD players, and access to a decent library of discs. 3 City Centre B&B 3 Anglesea St T07/838 1671, W www.citycentrebb.tk. Just one en-suite room with kitchenette and doors opening out to a garden and pool. Great value, free Internet access and an easy walk to town. 3

Eagles Nest 937 Victoria St T07/838 2704, [emailprotected]. Modern conversion of city-centre building to house six- and eight-bed dorms, plus rooms. There’s a deck with BBQ overlooking the street. Dorms $24, rooms 2 Hamilton City Holiday Park Ruakura Rd T07/855 8255, Wwww.hamiltoncityholidaypark. co.nz. Smallish, well-tended campsite 1km east of the centre with camping ($14), basic and more

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luxurious cabins, and slightly pricier s/c units. Cabins 2 , units 2 J’s Backpackers 8 Grey St T 07/856 8934, W www.jsbackpackers.co.nz. Relaxed, low-key hostel 2km southeast of the centre, on the #10 bus route. Dorms $25, 2

Matangi Oaks 634 Marychurch Rd/SH1B, midway between Hamilton and Cambridge T07/829 5765, W www.matangioaks.co.nz. Upmarket B&B in an elegant house with extensive grounds, 12km from central Hamilton. Spacious rooms (one en suite, two sharing a bathroom). 6

237

The City

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Everything of interest in Hamilton is either along or just off the main drag, Victoria Street, which parallels the west bank of the tree-lined Waikato River. While the rest of Hamilton exhibits a low, suburban cityscape, here at least there’s some interesting architecture, notably the 1924 Wesley Chambers (now Rydges Le Grand hotel) on the corner of Collingwood Street, an imposing edifice influenced by the buildings of boomtime Chicago. Progressing south past a handful of fine old hotels and municipal buildings, you begin to discern the prosperity that farming and trade brought to the area. Diagonally opposite Wesley Chambers a small open space graced by a statue of the Rocky Horror Show creator, Richard O’Brien, decked out as Riff Raff, the role he played in the movie of the show. English-born O’Brien spent his teens and early 20s in New Zealand and, so it is claimed, it was watching sci-fi B-movie double features at the Embassy that laid the foundation for The Rocky Horror Show. Further south, at the corner of Bridge Street, the roughcast concrete St Peter’s Cathedral was built in 1915, modelled on a fifteenth-century church in Norfolk, England.

| Hamilton

Waikato Museum of Art and History

The single significant sight in central Hamilton is the Waikato Museum of Art and History, 1 Grantham St (daily 10am–4.30pm; free; W www .waikatomuseum.org.nz), occupying a modern building that steps down to the river. Exhibitions are rotating, but one enduring feature is a section devoted to Tainui culture, with wonderful examples of domestic items, woven flax, tools, ritual artefacts and carvings. Pride of place goes to the magnificent Te Winika war canoe, surrounded by contemporary Tainui carvings and tukutuku panels made from flax, leather and wood.

238 Waikato

Museum of Art and History

Parks and gardens

Eating, drinking and nightlife

Canvas 1 Grantham St T07/839 2535. Stylish restaurant in the museum complex, popular for its considered menu of beautifully prepared modern Kiwi dishes. Lunches $10–20; dinners around $30. Closed Sat lunch & Sun. CentrePlace Food Court Ward St. Mall-based, cheap Chinese, kebabs, Indian, sushi, etc. Diggers 17 Hood St. Down-to-earth drinkers’ den, with a long kauri bar, liveliest at weekends, with a great atmosphere and regular gigs on Sun. Domaine 575 Victoria St T07/839 2100. Vibrant modern restaurant with streetside seating and booths at the back, that’s good for café dining during the day and more formal evening meals. Closed Sun.

| Hamilton

The nucleus of Hamilton’s food and drink scene lies on Hood Street and around the corner, along the southern end of Victoria Street, where places start the day as cafés and progressively become restaurant/bars as the day wears on. Casabella Lane, between and parallel to London and Bryce streets, also has tempting cafés along a potted-plant alley. For information on happenings around town, check the Waikato Times; comprehensive entertainment listings appear on Friday and Saturday.

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Across the river in Memorial Park is the old paddle steamer Waipa Delta (T 0800/472 335, W www.waipadelta.co.nz), still cruising daily along the Waikato River for sedate lunches (12.30pm), coffees (3pm) or dinners (7pm). Embark at the Memorial Park jetty and be prepared to part with $45, $20 or $59 respectively, more at weekends. From Memorial Park, a riverside path heads 2km south to the huge, unfenced Hamilton Gardens, Cobham Drive/SH1 (free; W www.hamiltongardens.co .nz; bus #10 from the Transport Centre), with extensive displays of roses, tropical plants, rhododendrons, magnolias and cacti. Pick up a free map from the gardens’ visitor centre (daily 9am–5pm; café attached), then duck next door to the inner sanctum of the Paradise Gardens Collection (daily 7.30am–dusk; free), six beautiful enclosures each planted in a different style. Also watch or listen out for tui, a native New Zealand bird with a distinct call, recently returned thanks to a wildlife programme to attract native birds back to the city.

Outback Inn The Marketplace, off Hood St. Big boisterous student drinking hole, with pool tables and a selection of beers and snacks. Dancing Tues–Sat; DJ Wed–Sat; occasional live bands. Pasta Mia Casabella Lane. Simple bistro serving a range of freshly made pasta dishes (for around $17), with tempting daily specials. Saint Lazarre Casabella Lane. French-run café with the best Kiwi deli food in town, as well as French-style pastries. Scotts Epicurean 181 Victoria St. Bustling daytime café/restaurant, good for coffee, snacks, and excellent cakes, plus a modern take on pea, pie and pud ($16).

Listings Automobile Association 295 Barton St T 07/839 1397. Bookshops Dimensions Women’s Bookshop, 67 Brookﬁeld St; Browsers, 221 Victoria St; Crows Nest Books, Arcadia Building, Worley Place. Both buy and sell secondhand books. Cinema Village Skycity, in the CentrePlace Mall on Ward St (T07/834 1222), for mainstream releases. Library The Central Library, Garden Place, off Victoria St (Mon–Fri 9am–8.30pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun noon–3.30pm); Internet access.

Medical treatment Anglesea Clinic and Pharmacy, corner of Anglesea & Thackeray sts (daily 7.30am– 11pm; T 07/858 0800). Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce is in Bryce St. Taxis Hamilton Taxis T0800/477 477. Travel agents Air New Zealand Travel Centre, 25 Ward St T07/839 9835; Flight Centre, CentrePlace, Ward St T07/838 0888. 239

Southeast of Hamilton

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Hamilton won’t detain you long, but there’s enough to soak up a couple of days’ exploration in the immediate vicinity.The pick of the local towns is Raglan (see p.243), but Kawhia (see p.245) is worth a squiz for its cultural significance and remoteness, while southeast of Hamilton on SH1, there’s a genteel English charm to Cambridge and further out, Tirau justifies a coffee stop. It also acts as a staging point for Matamata, where Hobbiton tours are an essential stop for Lord of the Rings nuts. If you’re making for Taupo (see p.321), continue along SH1 through Putaruru and Tokoroa, neither of which warrants braking.

Cambridge

| Southeast of Hamilton

An undisturbed air – bordering on comatose – envelops CAMBRIDGE, 24km southeast of Hamilton. Founded as a militia settlement at the navigable limit of the Waikato River in 1864, Cambridge is today marooned in an agricultural belt dotted with stud farms. Attractive in a bucolic, Disneyesque way, it is of interest only to those fascinated by matters equine. A taste of the horsey tradition can be gleaned by following the town’s Equine Stars Walk of Fame, with mosaics of Cambridge-bred winners embedded in the pavements. At Cambridge Thoroughbred Lodge, 6km southeast on SH1 (daily 10am–3pm; $8; T 07/827 8118, W www.cambridgethoroughbredlodge.co.nz), you can watch contemporary racehorses getting a workout but it lacks conviction when there’s no money riding on it. Practicalities

Buses on the Auckland–Wellington run stop beside the town hall on Lake Street, while Cambridge Travel Lines (T 07/827 7363) run a local service from Hamilton (Mon–Fri only) that stops by St Andrew’s church. Both stops are two minutes’ walk from the visitor centre, at the corner of Queen and Victoria streets (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; T 07/823 3456, W www .cambridgeinfo.co.nz), a booking agent for buses. There’s low-cost Internet access at the library, 23 Wilson St (Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 10am–2pm). There’s little reason to stay but Park House, 70 Queen St (T 07/827 6368, W www.parkhouse.co.nz; 6 ), offers temptation in an elegantly furnished 1920s house, the rooms in a separate wing. Cheaper B&B is available in Pamade, 229 Shakespeare St (T 07/827 4916, E [emailprotected]; 3 ), while 2km south of central Cambridge, over the river, is Cambridge Motor Park, 32 Scott St (T 07/827 5649, W cambridge.kiwiholidayparks.com; camping $13, cabins 2 , kitchen cabins 2 , self-contained units 3 ). Foodies could do worse than The Deli, 48 Victoria St (closed Sun after 2pm), a daytime venue for coffee, snacks, light meals and Devonshire teas; or Fran’s Café, 62 Victoria St (closed Sun; BYO), a kitsch setting for home-baked snacks and light meals, under $15. Rosso’s, Alpha Street (T 07/827 6699; closed Mon), serves snacks and good Italian lunches and dinners while cheaper grub jumps the bar at the English-pub-style Prince Albert, Victoria Plaza, off Victoria Street.

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The farming settlement of TIRAU, 30km southeast of Cambridge, is a highwayside strip adorned with mild irony, in the form of a large corrugatediron sheep and sheepdog. The sheep houses a wool shop, the sheepdog the visitor centre (daily 9am–5pm; T 07/883 1202, W tirauinfo.co.nz): where you

can obtain a free leaflet highlighting the town’s reinvention of itself as a centre for antiques and crafts. The corrugated iron constructions have attained iconic status and spawned a rash of sheet-metal structures and signs throughout Tirau, including a biblical shepherd in the grounds of a church. There’s a handful of places to eat along SH1, notably the Alley Cats Espresso Café – opposite the dog – serving snacks; and the Kinda Sheepish Koffee Bar at the back of the sheep; and the Loose Goose (closed Tues) further east on SH1.

| Te Awamutu and around

The dairy-farming and racehorse-breeding town of Matamata, 20km north of Tirau, shot to prominence a few years back as the location of Hobbiton from the Lord of the Rings trilogy. All film sets were supposed to be destroyed after filming, but bad weather stopped the dismantling of seventeen hobbit-hole facades. The town has since built a minor industry round its association with celluloid Middle Earth but the only way to visit the Hobbiton location (on a working sheep farm 15km southwest of town) is with Rings Scenic Tours, who run two-hour trips (daily 9.30am, 10.45am, noon, 1.15pm, 2.30pm, 3.45pm, plus 5pm in the high season; $50; T 07/888 6838, W www.hobbitontours.com). With unadorned frontages of the hobbit holes (all the interiors were filmed in Wellington studios) and grassed-over landscaping, the set retains little of the pastoral English feel created for the film. Still, you can see where it all happened, particularly the lake and the Party Tree (a big radiata pine). Die-hard fans will revel in the tour guides’ unexpurgated tales of the filming. Trips leave from the Matamata i-SITE visitor centre, 45 Broadway (daily 9am–5pm; T 07/888 7260, W www.matamatanz.co.nz), where the InterCity/ Newmans buses drop off. Most people do the tour and press on, but it is worth staying to eat at the funky A Workman’s Café, 52 Broadway (T 07/888 5498; daily except Mon from breakfast till 9pm or later, licensed), the best café in these parts.

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Matamata

Roads south From Tirau, SH5 runs east to Rotorua, while SH1 continues southeast toward Taupo, passing through PUTARURU, 8km from Tirau. SH1 continues 25km southeast through rolling farmland to pungent TOKOROA, downwind of the nearby Kinleith pulp mill. Most likely you’ll want to stick on SH1 to Taupo, but if the Tongariro National Park beckons, follow SH32 30km south from Tokoroa to Whakamaru and turn south for the Western Bays Highway (still SH32) direct to Turangi. The road flanks the eastern side of the Pureora Forest (p.253) accessible along Kakaho Road, 19km south of Whakamaru. Of additional interest 10km further south, a short side road leads to the Waihora Lagoon Walk (500m return; 15min), ending at a pretty lake surrounded by rimu and kahikatea trees.

Te Awamutu and around TE AWAMUTU, 30km south of Hamilton, is a placid place, surrounded by rolling hills, dairy pasture and overlooked by Mount Pirongia. By the nineteenth century Maori had a heavy presence on the land, as evidenced by the many pa sites in the loops of rivers and on steep hilltops. During the 1863 New Zealand Wars, Te Awamutu was a garrison for government forces and site of one of the most famous battles of the conflict, fought at the hastily constructed

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| Te Awamutu and around

Orakau pa, where three hundred Maori stood off two thousand soldiers for three days. Besides being the birthplace of fraternal Kiwi pop music icons Tim and Neil Finn, Te Awamatu is locally renowned for its extensive rose gardens, at the corner of Gorst and Arawata streets, at their best between November and May. Immediately across the road is the visitor centre (see below), where fans of Split Enz and Crowded House might want to get hold of the “Finn Tour” booklet ($5) for a self-guided jaunt round places of significance in the Finn brothers’ unremarkable formative years. The visitor centre also holds the key to St John’s Church, just across Arawata Street. Built as a garrison church in 1854, it was spared the fiery fate of most European buildings because the Maori chieftain, Te Paea Potatau, placed her mana upon it. Inside is a tribute from the British regiment, written in Maori, honouring Maori who crawled, under fire, onto the battlefield to give water to wounded British soldiers. The church also contains one of the oldest figurative stained-glass windows in New Zealand. Te Awamutu Museum and library, 135 Roche St, ten minutes’ walk west of the visitor centre (Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat 10am–1pm, Sun 1–4pm; free; W www.tamuseum.org.nz), contains an excellent collection of early Maori artefacts. The museum’s pride and joy is Uenuku, a striking dark-wood carving representing a traditional god as a rainbow. This sacred relic of the Tainui people may date to around 1400. Along with displays about European settlers and the New Zealand Wars, there’s the True Colours exhibit, devoted to the Finn brothers, but concentrating on Split Enz. One of the largest remaining stands of kahikatea trees on the North Island, Yarndley’s Bush (dawn–dusk; free), is just 4km north of Te Awamutu along SH3, then following the signposts 1500m along Ngaroto Road. A loop walk (30min) winds through huge root buttresses, with a raised platform midway along for a bird’s-eye view of the constantly moving canopy. Kahikatea are one of New Zealand’s most spectacular trees but the use of their odourless wood to make boxes to transport butter means this is one of the few places you will get the chance to appreciate them.

Practicalities InterCity and Dalroy buses on the Auckland–New Plymouth run, stop at the visitor centre, 1 Gorst Ave (Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3.30pm, closing later in summer; T 07/871 3259, W www.teawamutu.co.nz), from where just about everything in town is a short walk. If you get hungry after a walk round the kahikatea stand try the small Frenchrun patisserie at Salvador’s, 50 Alexandra St (closed Sun), or the licensed Olde Bank, 201 Alexandra St, for good meals both day and evening.

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Dominating the landscape to the west of Te Awamutu is Mount Pirongia, scarred by redoubt trenches from the New Zealand Wars. The peak lies within the Pirongia Forest Park, an area traversed by a series of interesting nature walks described in the DOC Pirongia leaflet (available from Te Awamutu visitor centre). The most popular is the Mangakara Nature Walk (3km; 1hr return), meandering through ancient forest. Longer tramping routes converge on the 959-metre summit, the most rewarding being the Mahaukura Track from the Grey Road car park (4km each way; 4–6hr up), taking you via the Wharauroa Lookout (2–3hr to the lookout; the last 30m are steep, with chains placed to

help). On the summit ridge is DOC’s Pahautea Hut (eight bunks; $5; book at Te Awamutu visitor centre or Hamilton DOC).

Raglan and around

Almost everything of note in town is to be found along Bow Street, its central row of phoenix palms shading banks, restaurants and a selection of crafts shops. The street’s western end butts against the harbour, where a slender footbridge provides access to the campsite and a safe swimming beach. Hamilton City buses (T 0800/800 401) stop outside the library on Bow Street.The visitor centre (Nov–March Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm Sat 10am–5pm Sun 10am–4pm; April–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; T 07/825 0556, W www.raglan.org.nz) is at 4 Wallis St. Raglan Video, 6 Bow St, has Internet access (daily 10am–8.30pm). One of the reasons you may overdo your expected stay here is the abundance of accommodation at all levels. Accommodation Belindsay’s 28 Wallis St T 07/825 6592, E [emailprotected]. Upmarket backpackers in a 1930s house with polished wood ﬂoors, stained-glass windows and a deep bath as well as shower. Three-bed shares, a single and doubles, plus a sunny lounge and kitchen. Dorms $20, 2 Harbourview Hotel 14 Bow St T07/825 8010, [emailprotected]. Pleasant rooms, including singles in the town’s archetypal hotel, some of them with a veranda overlooking the main street. 3 Karioi Lodge, 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay T 07/825 7873,W www.karioi.co.nz. Pleasant hostel in native bush 8km southwest of Raglan, with four-bed dorms and doubles, a communal kitchen, sauna, bike hire, mountain tracks and a ﬂying fox. At busy times evening meals may be

available ($12), but it’s best to bring supplies. Free pick-up from Raglan plus daily transport ($1 each way). Dorms $27, 2 Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge 6 Nero St T07/825 0515, W www .raglanbackpackers.co.nz. Comfortable and friendly backpackers beautifully laid out round a courtyard that backs onto the estuary. Centrally located with cheap kayak, bike and surfboard ($20 per session) rental. Dorms $21, 2 Raglan Kopua Holiday Park Marine Parade T07/825 8283, Wwww.raglanholidaypark.co.nz. Central campsite 1km by road from town but also accessible by footbridge. It is well sited next to Te Kopua, the harbour’s safest swimming beach. Camping $12, backpacker bunks $20, cabins 2 , tourist ﬂats 3 Rohi Manu Rose St T07/825 6831, Wwww .rohimanu.co.nz. Three upmarket and centrally

| Raglan and around

Arrival, information and accommodation

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Visitors often stay longer than they intend in RAGLAN, which hugs the south side of the large and picturesque Raglan Harbour, some 48km west of Hamilton. Once a day-tripper’s paradise, Raglan now attracts an ever-growing number of permanent residents, drawn by the town’s bohemian arts-and-crafts tenor and the laid-back spirit of the surfing community, here for some of the best lefthanded breaks in the world. Aside from watersports there is hiking and horseriding to the south of town, notably in the area around Mount Karioi, and further south at Bridal Veil Falls. The horizon to the south of Raglan is dominated by Mount Karioi. According to Maori legend the mountain was the ultimate goal of the great migratory canoe Tainui, but on reaching the mouth of the harbour a bar blocked the way, hence the name Whaingaroa (“long pursuit”). The shortened epithet, Whangaroa, was the name used for the harbour until 1855, when it was renamed Raglan after the officer who led the Charge of the Light Brigade.

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located houses, all with sea views and personalized dining as well as holistic therapies. 7 Sleeping Lady Lodgings Raglan Surﬁng School, 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay T07/825 7873, Wwww .sleepinglady.co.nz. Four delightful s/c holiday homes scattered through coastal bush 8km southwest of Raglan, sleeping from two to twelve ($120–220 a night for two, plus $30 for each additional person). 6 Solscape Wainui Rd, Manu Bay, 6km south of Raglan T 07/825 8268, W www .solscape.co.nz. Excellent if idiosyncratic

accommodation in imaginatively converted train carriages, cottages and new eco cottages, on top of a hill with panoramic views. Other bonuses include a home-made solar water heating system, solar LED lights, tipi-style accommodation and individual earth-wood units (timber frames and roofs with mud walls) as well as free pick-ups from Raglan, and surf lessons (see p.245). Sheltered camping $15, dorms $20, 2 shared cabooses and doubles 3 eco units and s/c studios 6

The town and its beaches

| Raglan and around

It’s easy to pass a couple of hours wandering the foreshore, there is little specific to see in Raglan except for the museum, in an old police station on Wainui Road (Sat & Sun 1–3.30pm; donation), with a modest local history collection, mostly European. Harbour cruises are a better bet, taking in pancake rock formations, historic sites and birdlife; run by Raglan Harbour Adventures on the Spruce Goose (1hr 30min–2hr in the summer; $20; T 07/825 8153, E [emailprotected] .nz). Similar territory is covered on guided kayak trips with Raglan Kayaks (T 825 8862, W www.raglaneco.co.nz), who run a variety of tours. The best is the Limestone Experience (3hr 30min; $65), involving paddling amid pancake-layered grey limestone formations. The safest swimming beach is Te Kopua, in the heart of town, reached via the footbridge from lower Bow Street or by car along Wainui Road and Marine Parade. Ocean Beach, just outside the town off Wainui Road and on the way to Whale Bay, gives great views of the bar of rock and sand that stretches across the mouth of the harbour and is a fine picnic spot, but strong undertows make swimming unsafe.

Eating and drinking With the steady flow of surfers and travellers, Raglan has some great relaxed café-style places to eat, most of them clustering around the intersection of Bow Street and Wainui Road. Aqua Velvet Corner of Wainui Rd & Bow St. Spacious, licensed café with live music on Saturdays during the summer, otherwise daytime only, with good coffee and a knitting circle. Harbour View Hotel Bow St. Reliable hotel/pub with good-value meals, plus draught beer and wine by the glass. Raglan Club 22 Bow St. The atmosphere’s nothing to shout about but there’s good basic pub fare in the evenings, notably the $14 ﬁsh-and-chip meals, and the Thurs-night roast ($10). Closed Mon & Tues. Salt Rock Café 2 Wallis St. Licensed breakfast and lunch hangout with great views over the bay,

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open evenings Dec–March, otherwise 9am–3pm daily. Tongue and Groove Corner of Bow St & Wainui Rd. The laid-back vibe, steady ﬂow of interesting locals, extensive range of imaginative café fare, and great cakes and coffee make this the pick of Raglan’s eateries. Licensed & BYO. Vinnie’s World of Eats 7 Wainui Rd. One time trailblazer of the café scene hereabouts, Vinnie’s remains excellent value (closed Mon–Wed except Dec–Mar) with everything from snacks to seafood mains via gourmet pizza. Licensed & BYO.

Around Raglan Grand views of Raglan Harbour and up and down the coast can be had from the summit of Mount Karioi (755m), reached by the Te Toto track (8km

Surfing and kitesurfing

| Kawhia

return; 5–6hr; not to be attempted in bad weather). Starting 12km south of Raglan along Whaanga Road, the track heads up a gorge and, after a strenuous and difficult climb within a cliff-lined cut to a lookout, reaches the final, easier, section to the summit. A little further along this coast at Ruapuke, Extreme Horse Adventures (T 07/825 0059, W www.wildcoast.co.nz) offer rides over their farm, through native bush and on to Ruakpuke Beach ($90 per person, $15 for transport from Raglan, minimum four). Twenty-three kilometres southeast of Raglan, a short easy path (10min each way) leads to Bridal Veil Falls, hidden in dense native bush, and signposted from the Kawhia Road; at the falls themselves, water plummets 55m down a sheer rock face into a green pool where rainbows appear in the spray in sunny weather. The Te Toto track and the falls sights can be combined on a winding gravel-road loop around the Karioi Range, that passes Magic Mountain Horse Treks, 334 Houchen Rd (T 07/825 6892, W www.magicmountain .co.nz), who charge $40 for an hour’s riding, or $80 for a trek to Bridal Veil Falls. To get here, head 8km east of Raglan on SH23, then 6km up Te Mata Road, and 3km up Houchen Road; pick-ups can be arranged ($20, minimum two) from Raglan.

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There are plenty of great surf breaks around the country but Raglan is New Zealand’s main surﬁng destination, largely because of its international reputation for the best left-handed break in the world. The lines of perfect breakers appear like blue corduroy southwest of town. The best place for inexperienced surfers is Ngarunui Beach, 5km out of Raglan, which is rock-free; for the experienced, the main breaks are Manu Bay and Whale Bay, both around 8km from town. The two main places for surf lessons are the Whale Bay-based Raglan Surﬁng School (T 07/825 7873, Wwww.raglansurﬁngschool.co.nz), who offer a starter lesson (3hr; $89 including gear and transport) using a specially made soft board, plus a range of longer packages; and Manu Bay-based Solscape, who offer a range of deals, from $85 including a lesson, board and wetsuit. Both places also rent gear, as do GAg, 9a Bow St (T 07/825 8702, Wwww.gagraglan.com; boards from $35 a day) and, in summer, a shack on Ngarunui Beach (boards $35 half-day; boogie boards $15 half-day; wetsuits $10 half-day; kite- or wind-surf gear $80 a day). For those in need of the wind in their hair try kitesurﬁng with Ragaln Kitesurf School (T 07/825 7453; 2hr $100).

Kawhia Sleepy KAWHIA, 55km south of Raglan, perches on the northern side of Kawhia Harbour and enjoys a massive population explosion in the summer.The six hundred souls who normally live there are joined by over four thousand holidaying Kiwis flocking to Ocean Beach, where Te Puia Hot Springs bubble from beneath the black sand. You can reach the springs along the unsealed four-kilometre Tainui–Kawhia Forest Road. At the car park a track leads over the dunes to the ocean. Go two hours either side of low tide (check times at the museum or in any of the local stores, and ask for detailed directions) – it’s often hard to find the springs unless others have got there first, to dig the necessary shallow holes. Be warned, the black sand can scorch bare feet and dangerous rips make swimming unsafe.

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| The King Country

The settlement of Kawhia is strung unattractively along Jervois Street. Lined with a couple of petrol stations and a handful of combined shop/cafés, the only site is Kawhia Museum (Oct–March Mon–Fri 11.30am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 11am–4pm; April–Nov Wed–Sun 11am–3pm; donation; T 07/871 0161), with interesting displays on local Maori culture, European settlers, and a kauri whaleboat built in the 1880s. As the spiritual home of the Tainui, the settlement does have other points of interest though. Legends tell of the arrival of the Tainui in 1350, in their ancestral waka (canoe), and of how they found Kawhia Harbour so bountiful that they lived on its shores for three hundred years. Tribal battles over the rich fishing grounds eventually forced them inland and in 1821, after constant attacks by the better-armed Waikato Maori, the Tainui chief, Te Rauparaha finally led his people to the relative safety of Kapiti Island. When the original waka arrived in Kawhia, it was tied to a pohutukawa tree, Tangi te Korowhiti, still growing on the shore on Kaora Street, near the junction with Moke Street, 800m west of the museum – reached along the waterside footpath. The Tainui canoe is buried on a grassy knoll above the beautifully carved and painted meeting house of the Maketu Marae, further along Kaora Street at Karewa Beach, with Hani and Puna stones marking its stern and prow. The arrival of European settlers and missionaries in the 1830s made Kawhia prosperous as a gateway to the fertile King Country, though its fortunes declined in the early years of the twentieth century, owing to its unsuitability for deep-draught ships. These days the settlement is known throughout New Zealand for annual whaleboat races (Jan 1), when eleven-metre, five-crew whaling boats dash across the bay. To sample something of this maritime spirit, join Kawhia Harbour Cruises (mid-Dec to Feb daily; $40, min 4; T 027/350 3601) who visit the white-sand beaches and labyrinths of pancake rocks.

Practicalities The museum acts as an unofficial visitor centre, dispensing free maps and details of local attractions. Campers can stay at the well-kept Kawhia Camping Ground, 73 Moke St (T 07/871 0863, W www.kawhiacampingground.co.nz; camping $14, cabins 1 , caravans with awnings 2 ), who also offer a ten-seater, 4WD shuttle to the hot springs. Alternatively try the waterfront Kawhia Beachside S-cape, 225 Pouewe St (SH31) (T 07/871 0727, W www.kawhiabeachsidescape .co.nz; camping $15, dorms $25, cabins 1 , units 4 ), for a range or accommodation, including some pleasant ‘bottle and bonk’ units. Quintessential Kawhia eating is fish and chips from one of the town takeaways, eaten on the wharf overlooking the harbour. Follow this with a beer in the very traditional Kawhia Hotel, Annie’s or the Blue Chook Inn.

The King Country

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The rural landscape inland from Kawhia and south of Hamilton is known as the King Country, because it was the refuge of King Tawhiao and members of the King Movement (see p.247), after they were driven south during the New Zealand Wars. The area soon gained a reputation among Pakeha as a Maori stronghold renowned for difficult terrain and a welcome that meant few, if any, Europeans entered. However, the forest’s respite was short-lived: when peace was declared in 1881, loggers descended in droves. Tourist interest focuses on Waitomo, a tiny village at the heart of a unique and dramatic landscape, honeycombed by limestone caves eerily illuminated by

The King Movement

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| The King Country

Before Europeans arrived, Maori loyalty was solely to their immediate family and tribe, but wrangles with acquisitive European settlers led many tribes to discard age-old feuds in favour of a common crusade against the Pakeha. Maori nationalism hardened in the face of blatantly unjust treatment and increasing pressure to “sell” land. In 1856, the inﬂuential Otaki Maori sought a chief who might unite the disparate tribes against the Europeans, and in 1858 the Waikato, Taupo and other tribes (largely originating from the Tainui canoe; see p.246) chose Te Wherowhero. Taking the title of Potatau I, the newly elected king established himself at Ngaruawahia – to this day the seat of the King Movement. The principal tenet of the movement was to resist the appropriation of Maori land and provide a basis for a degree of self-government. Whether out of a genuine misunderstanding of these aims or for reasons of economic expediency, the settlers interpreted the formation of the movement as an act of rebellion – despite the fact that Queen Victoria was included in the movement’s prayers – and tension heightened. The situation escalated into armed conﬂict later in 1858 when the Waitara Block near New Plymouth was conﬁscated from its Maori owners. The ﬁghting spread throughout the central North Island: the King Movement won a notable victory at Gate Pa, in the Bay of Plenty, but was eventually overwhelmed at Te Ranga. Seeing the wars as an opportunity to settle old scores, some Maori tribes sided with the British and, in a series of battles along the Waikato, forced the kingites further south, until a crushing blow was struck at Orakau in 1864. The king and his followers ﬂed south of the Puniu River into an area that, by virtue of their presence, became known as the King Country. There they remained, with barely any European contact, until 1881, when King Tawhiao, who had succeeded to the throne in 1860, made peace. Gradually the followers of the King Movement drifted back to Ngaruawahia. Although by no means supported by all Maori, the loose coalition of the contemporary King Movement plays an important role in the current reassessment of Maori–Pakeha relations, and the reigning Maori King is the recipient of state and royal visits.

glow-worms, and overlaid by a geological wonderland of karst. North of Waitomo is the small dairy town of Otorohanga, with a kiwi house and aviary. To the south of Waitomo, Te Kuiti provided sanctuary in the 1860s for Maori rebel Te Kooti, who reciprocated with a beautifully carved meeting house. Further south is the Pureora Forest Park, an enclave of rich lowland podocarp forest that was the site of a conservation battle in the late 1970s, and now provides access to excellent walks and a home for the rare kokako, a bird that prefers walking to flight. From Te Kuiti, SH4 runs south to the King Country’s last community, the jaded town of Taumarunui, with access to the Whanganui River and the start of the Forgotten World Highway (see p.255).

Otorohanga Surrounded by sheep and cattle country some 30km south of Te Awamutu, OTOROHANGA has one main attraction, the Kiwi House Native Bird Park, Alex Telfer Drive, off Kakamutu Road (daily: Sept–May 9.30am–4.30pm; June– Aug 9am–4pm; $15; W www.kiwihouse.org.nz; kiwi get fed daily at 1.30pm and 4pm), five minutes’ walk from the town centre. The grumpy little bird’s lifestyle is explained in the well-laid-out nocturnal kiwi house. Outdoor enclosures contain most species of New Zealand native bird, many in a walk-through aviary. Nearby on Kakamutu Road, the Otorohanga Museum (Sun 2–4pm; donation; T 07/873 8849) presents Maori flax weavings, dog-hair cloaks, and a

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glassed-in room where you can peer in at the remains of the half-built Maori waka, Te Waonui O Tane, carved from a totara. This rough-hewn canoe shape was found still on its construction cradle under layers of gravel and sand. Otorohanga celebrates all things archetypally Kiwi with a series of lighthearted shop-window Kiwiana displays along Maniapoto Street. Take a glance in Hammer Hardware at no. 88 for Kiwi ingenuity, and Otorohanga Sheepskins at no. 52 for a celebration of Marmite. Perhaps more productively visit the Karam and John Haddad Menswear Store, 65–71 Maniapoto St (T 07/873 8377), ‘world famous in New Zealand’ for bargains on Swanndri bushwear and Kiwi-Stockman waxed coats and other vital rural gear, as well as their own specially designed, unique Kiwi hat, the Haddad 6045. Practicalities

| The King Country

Trains pull in behind the i-SITE visitor centre, 21 Maniapoto St (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; T 07/873 8951, W www.otorohanga.co.nz), buses stop out front. Waitomo has no bank, supermarket or petrol station, so make use of these amenities here. There’s a well-equipped central campsite, the Otorohanga Holiday Park, 12 Huiputea Drive (T 07/873 7253, W www.kiwiholidaypark.co.nz; camping $15, cabin 2 , motel units 3 ), if you wish to park your campervan, try the Otorohanga & Waitomo Colonial Motels, 59 Main North Rd/SH3 (T 0800/828 289, W waitomomotels.co.nz; 3 ). The best bets for eating are the Copper Tree, 80 Maniapoto St (closed Sun), and The Thirsty Weta, 57 Maniapoto St.

Waitomo Some 16km south of Otorohanga, WAITOMO, 8km west of SH3, is a diminutive village with an outsize reputation for wonderful cave trips and magnificent karst features – streams that disappear down funnel-shaped sinkholes, craggy limestone outcrops, fluted rocks, potholes and natural bridges caused by cave ceiling collapses. Below ground, seeping water has sculpted the rock into eerie and extraordinary shapes. The ongoing process of cave creation involves the interaction of rainwater and carbon dioxide from the air, that together form a weak acid. As more carbon dioxide is absorbed from the soil the acid grows stronger, dissolving the limestone and enlarging cracks and joints, eventually

Glow-worms

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Glow-worms (Arachnocampa luminosa) are found all over New Zealand, mostly in caves but also on overhanging banks in the bush where in dark and damp conditions you’ll often see the telltale bluey-green glow. A glow-worm isn’t a worm at all, but the matchstick-sized larval stage of the fungus gnat (a relative of the mosquito), which attaches itself to the cave roof and produces around twenty or thirty mucus-and-silk threads or “ﬁshing lines”, which hang down a few centimetres. Drawn by the highly efﬁcient chemical light, midges and ﬂying insects get ensnared in the threads and the glow-worm draws in the line to eat them. The six- to nine-month larval stage is the only time in the glow-worm life cycle that it can eat, so it needs to store energy for the two-week pupal stage when it transforms into the adult gnat that has no mouthparts. It only lives a couple of days, during which time the female has to frantically ﬁnd a mate in the dark caves (the glow is a big help here) and lay her batch of a hundred or so eggs. After a two- to three-week incubation, they hatch into glow-worms and the process begins anew.

Trains and InterCity buses stop in Otorohanga, from where the Waitomo Shuttle (T 0800/808 279; $10 one way) ferries people to Waitomo, five times daily. Newmans buses run daily to Waitomo on their Auckland–Rotorua run, and there’s also the Waitomo Wanderer (T 0508 926 337, W www.waitomotours .co.nz) running daily from Rotorua. Above ground there’s not much to Waitomo Caves apart from the official visitor centre in the Museum of Caves building on the main road (daily: Jan & Feb 8.45am–7.30pm; April–Sept 8.30am–5pm, Oct–Dec & March 8.30am–5.30pm, T 07/878 7640, W www.waitomoinfo.co.nz). The centre is a mine of information; booking agent for cave trips, trains and buses; a post office; and has Internet access. There is no bank or petrol at Waitomo and only a small store.

| The King Country

Arrival and information

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forming the varied caves you see today. Each year a further seventy cubic metres of limestone (about the size of a double-decker bus) is dissolved. The caves can be visited on a number of tours, from a gentle underground float through grottoes illuminated by glow-worms, to full-on wetsuit-clad adventure trips involving squeezes and hundred-metre abseils into the void. Alternatively you can go glow-worm-searching independently on a night-time walk through a natural tunnel. Appropriately enough, Waitomo means “water entering shaft” and, for over a hundred years, visitors have flocked here to explore the surrounding caves. Some passages were familiar to local Maori long before local chief Tane Tinorau introduced them to English surveyor Fred Mace, in 1887. The pair explored further, building a raft of flax stems and drifting along an underground stream, with candles their only source of light. So impressed were they that, within a year, the enterprising Tane was guiding tourists to see the spectacle. The government took over in 1906 and it was not until 1989 that the caves were returned to their Maori owners, who receive a percentage of all revenue generated and participate in the site’s management.

Accommodation

Backpackers are well provided for in Waitomo. Other accommodation is fairly limited so book in advance, particularly between November and January. Abseil Breakfast Inn 709 Waitomo Caves Rd, 400m east of the museum T07/878 7815, Wwww .abseilinn.co.nz. Pick of the B&Bs, relaxing and stylish, on top of a hill with great views. Each of the four en-suite rooms is individually decorated. 5 Hamilton Tomo Group Lodge 1700m west of Waitomo T07/878 7422, Wwww.htg.org.nz or book through visitor centre. Basic caving-club lodge plying visitors with local knowledge and offering dorms with access to a kitchen, wide sunny deck and BBQ. Bring your own sleeping bag. Dorm $12. Juno Hall Waitomo Caves Rd, 1km east of Waitomo T 07/878 7649, Wwww.junowaitomo .co.nz. Small, well-equipped hostel in a timberlined building set on a low hill by a pool, BBQ deck and a tennis court. Free pick-ups from town, camping $15, dorms $25, 2

KiwiPaka YHA Waitomo School Rd T 07/878 3395, W www.kiwipaka-yha .co.nz. Excellent purpose-built YHA in the heart of Waitomo with beds and rooms in a lodge, separate chalets with private bathrooms, and a great café (see p.252). Three-shares $27, rooms 3 , chalets 3 Te Tiro 9km west of Waitomo T07/878 6328, W www.waitomocavesnz.com. Cosy s/c cottages with fabulous views and a glow-worm grotto. Breakfast goodies are included, but if you’re cooking, bring food or something for the BBQ. 4 Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge 7 Waitomo Caves, 100m east of the museum T07/878 7641, W www.waitomocavesguestlodge.co.nz. Eight comfortable, good-value rooms on a hillside with a lovely garden. 4

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Waitomo Top 10 Holiday Park 12 Waitomo Caves Rd T0508/498 666, Wwww.waitomopark.co.nz. Well-equipped campsite in the heart of town, with a swimming pool and spa. Camping $18, cabins 2 , s/c units 4 World Unique Waitomo Motels 900m up Waitomo Valley Rd, off Waitomo Caves Rd T07/878 6666, Wwww.woodlynpark.co.nz. Popular motel-style

accommodation on the site of Billy Black’s Kiwi Culture Show (see p.251). Sleep in a Bristol freighter aircraft imaginatively converted into two comfortable s/c units; a 1950s railway carriage containing a three-room unit; two hobbit holes with circular entrances sunk into a hillside and a converted World War II patrol boat. Book a month ahead for Dec–Feb. 5

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Visiting the caves

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| The King Country

Only a fraction of the 45km of cave passages under Waitomo can be visited on guided tours, and the only caves you can safely explore independently are the Piripiri Caves, 28km west of the village (see p.252). To enhance your cave experience, stop at the Museum of Caves, beside the visitor centre (daily 8am–5pm, later Dec to early March; W www.waitomo-museum.co.nz); entry is $5, included in the price of most of the adventure-caving trips. The museum has informative exhibits on the geology and history of the caves, interactive displays on the life cycle of glow-worms and cave wetas and a free 18-minute multimedia show, screened on request, relating everything you’ll ever need to know about glow-worms. Waitomo’s original cave experience is Waitomo Glow-worm Caves, 500m west of the visitor centre (daily 9am–5pm; $35; W www.waitomocaves.co.nz), geared to herding tour-bus passengers through forty-minute tours, beginning on the half-hour. Paved walkways and lighting pick out the best of the stalactites and stalagmites and there’s a boat ride through the grotto, where glow-worms shed pinpricks of ghostly pale-green light. The best tour is the first of the day. The Glow-worm Caves office also sells tickets for tours around the Aranui Cave, 3.5km west of the visitor centre (daily 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm; 45min; $32). Although only 250m long it is geologically more spectacular, with high-ceilinged chambers and magnificent stalactites and stalagmites. A two-cave combo costs $50.

The pick of the other stay-dry caving trips are at Ruakuri (daily 9am, 11am, 1pm & 3pm; 2hr; $49, run by the Legendary Black Water Rafting Co, see below), whose tours draw on Maori stories of “The Den of the Dogs”, as the cave’s name translates. Adventure caving

Absolute Adventure T0800/787 323, Wwww .absoluteadventure.co.nz. The closest thing to pure caving, physically demanding but rewarding, with gorgeous cave features. There’s no tubing or glowworms and only modest abseils, but the half-day Mission (2hr underground: $125) offers plenty to keep you occupied. Alternatively try Journey, a 24hr adventure ($380) involving hiking, a long abseil, overnight camp beneath a cliff overhang, and lots of caving. As the cave is near the top of the catchment, trips run when rainfall washes others out. The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co T 0800/228 464, Wwww.blackwaterrafting.co.nz. The daddy of them all, who run two wetsuit-clad trips in Ruakuri Cave: Black Labyrinth (3hr, 1hr underground; $95), involving a short jump from an underground waterfall and an idyllic ﬂoat through a glow-worm cave; and the more adventurous Black Abyss (5hr, 2–3hr underground; $185), which adds abseiling and an eerie ﬂying-fox ride into darkness. Rap, Raft ’n’ Rock 95 Waitomo Caves Rd/SH37, 8km east of the Museum of Caves or 1km from the

junction with SH3 T0800/228 372, Wwww.caveraft .com. Small-group trips (4hr 30min; $125), starting with a 27m abseil into a glow-worm-ﬁlled cave explored partly on foot and partly ﬂoating on a tube, and ending with a rock climb out to the starting point. Spellbound The Spellbound Tower, Waitomo Caves Road T 0800/773 552, Wwww.glowworm.co.nz. Housed in the silver, tapering beehive that is known as Spellbound Tower and offering low-impact glowworm spotting on intimate trips four times daily, with gentle strolls and boat rides through two caves (3hrs 30min, $55). Waitomo Adventures In the town centre T0800/924 866, Wwww.waitomo.co.nz. Their signature trip is the Lost World Abseil (4hr; $245), a glorious, spine-tingling 100m rappel into the gaping fern-draped mouth of a spectacular pothole, followed by a relatively dry cave walk before climbing out on a seemingly endless ladder – the ﬁrst trip of the day is best. Cave junkies should go for the Lost World Epic (7hr; $395), where an abseil is followed by several “wet” hours, working your way upstream through squeezes, behind a small waterfall and into a glittering glow-worm grotto.

| The King Country

Adventure caving operators

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Waitomo excels at adventure-caving trips, which should be booked in advance, especially for the November to January period. The degree of commitment and level of fitness required varies considerably and the trick is to choose a trip that is exciting enough without scaring yourself witless (operators are adept at this). Most trips involve getting kitted out in a wetsuit, caver’s helmet with lamp and rubber boots, and combine two or more adventure elements. In all cases, heavy rain can lead to cancellations if water levels rise too high, so it pays to have a day or two to spare. Kids under 12 are not usually allowed on adventure trips, and the wilder trips are for those of 15 and over. Some trips feature cave tubing (also known as blackwater rafting), generally involving being wedged into the inner tube of a truck tyre for a gentle float through a pitch-black section of cave and gazing at pinpricks of glow-worm light overhead. Access to some caves is by abseiling; once underground you may do some genuine caving, working your way along passages, through squeezes, clambering over rocks and perhaps jumping into deep pools.

Other attractions and activities

If the rain hits and caving is a wash-out head for Woodlyn Park, 900m up Waitomo Valley Road from the village (T 07/878 6666, W www.woodlynpark .co.nz), where a rustic barn hosts the entertaining Billy Black’s Kiwi Culture Show (daily 1.30pm; $22; 1hr), an offbeat look at the history of logging and farming with loads of audience participation. Otherwise try tackling the rugged karst countryside around Waitomo on 4WD quad bikes with Waitomo Big

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Red (book through the visitor centre; 2hr; $105) or just get out and walk, pleasant enough even in the rain. Waitomo Village and the Aranui Cave are linked by the Waitomo Walkway (10km; 3hr return) that starts opposite the museum, disappears into the bush then follows the Waitomo Stream to the Aranui Cave. The trail then links up with the Ruakuri Natural Tunnel track (2km return; 45min), one of the most impressive short walks in the country. Starting from the car park for the Aranui Cave on Tumutumu Road, the track follows the Waitomo Stream on boardwalks and walkways past cave entrances. Ducking and weaving through short tunnel sections, you eventually reach a huge cave where the stream temporarily threads underground. The walk is especially magical at night when lit by glowworms in the bush. Both walks are shown on the free Waitomo Caves map from the visitor centre. Eating and drinking

Waitomo has a limited range of eating options, particularly in winter, when opening times are restricted.

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Curly’s Tavern Immediately west of the museum. Almost everyone eventually ends up at this unreconstructed Kiwi pub, either for convivial boozing or good-value, meals in the steak, seafood and burger tradition. Occasional live music. Huhu 10 Waitomo Caves Road, about 20m from the holiday park T07/878 6676. Fine dining in a licensed café serving excellent evening meals ($21–28), and “small plates” (Kiwi tapas). Book in the evening. The Long Black Café 2km east of the museum. Cooked breakfasts, Waitomo’s best coffee, simple

snacks and light meals, served from 8am in summer (8.30am in winter) until around 4pm in a spacious venue, busy with people setting off on caving trips or hanging out on the deck. Morepork Inside the KiwiPaka YHA, School Rd. Good, all-day café open from breakfast, serving a limited menu of sandwiches, pasta and salads, plus good-quality dinners and pizza in the evenings. Licensed & BYO.

Towards the coast from Waitomo

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For limestone scenery without all the commercialism, drive the Te Anga road for three free sights worth viewing in any weather. First is the Mangapohue Natural Bridge, 24km west of Waitomo, an easy fifteen-minute loop trail through forest to a riverside boardwalk which leads into a delightful, narrow limestone gorge topped by a remarkable double bridge formed by the remains of a collapsed cave roof. It’s especially picturesque at night when the undersides glimmer with myriad glow-worms. In daylight, don’t miss the rest of the walk, through farmland past fossilized examples of giant oysters, 35 million years old. Four kilometres west is Piripiri Caves, a five-minute walk through a forested landscape full of weathered limestone outcrops. Inside the cavern you’ll need a decent torch (and an emergency spare) to explore the Oyster Room, which contains more giant fossil oysters. A kilometre or so on, a track (15min return) accesses the dramatic multi-tiered Marokopa Falls through a forest of tawa, pukatea and kohekohe trees. The road continues west past TE ANGA and its small tavern, past the turn-off for Kawhia (see p.245), and towards the wind-lashed communities and long blacksand beaches of the coast. At MAROKOPA, stop at the Albatross Anchor, at the end of the road overlooking the beach; the anchor was saved from the ship of the same name, which foundered crossing the harbour bar. Here you can take in the spot where the river meets the roaring white-capped waves – but be careful, the sea is dangerous and it’s not unknown for fishermen to get dragged in.

Te Kuiti

Practicalities

| The King Country

The visitor centre (Oct–April daily 9am–5pm; May–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; T 07/878 8077, E [emailprotected]) is on Rora Street, by the train station. InterCity buses stop down the street outside Tiffany’s Restaurant, others stop outside the visitor centre: Dalroy’s (T 06/759 0197) between Auckland and New Plymouth; Perry’s Bus (T 07/876 7596) running a regular shuttle to Waitomo. The DOC office, 78 Taupiri St (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; T 07/878 1050), has details of the Pureora Forest Park. If you’re heading on to Waitomo, Te Kuiti is the last stop for a bank, petrol or supermarket. Accommodation is available 3km northeast at the rural hillside Casara Mesa Backpackers, Mangarino Road (T 07/878 6697, E [emailprotected]; dorms $25, doubles 2 ), with free pick-ups from the visitor centre. There are also units at the central Motel Te Kuiti, corner of Carroll and King streets (T 07/878 3448, E [emailprotected]; 4 ) or camping $9, caravans & cabins 1 at the Te Kuiti Camping Ground, 1 Hinerangi St (T 07/878 8966, E [emailprotected]). The busiest place to eat and drink is Tiffany’s Restaurant, at the corner of Rora and Lawrence streets, where cheap all-day meals and takeaways can be had until 9pm. Better, though pricier, food and coffee can be had at Bosco, 57 Te Kumi Rd (T 07/878 3633; daily 8am–3.30pm, Fri & Sat until 8pm), a couple of kilometres north. Back in town, Riverside Lodge, beside the river off King Street (turn off by the bridge; closed Mon), runs a restaurant bar that does good pizza.

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The town of TE KUITI, 19km south of Waitomo, isn’t much in itself but makes a reasonable base for visiting Waitomo. Promoting itself as the “Shearing Capital of the World”, Te Kuiti has a seven-metre-high statue of a man shearing a sheep at the southern end of Rora Street; is home to five-time world shearing champion, David Fagan, who can shear a lamb in sixteen seconds; and, appropriately, hosts the annual New Zealand Shearing and Wool Handling Championships in late March or early April. The town also has a proud Maori history, King Tawhiao and his followers fled here after the battle of Rangiriri in 1864. Eight years later, Maori rebel Te Kooti (see p.426) sought refuge and lived under the Maori king’s protection until he was pardoned. In return for sanctuary, Te Kooti left a magnificently carved meeting house, Te Tokanganui-a-noho, opposite the south end of Rora Street, on Awakino Road.

Pureora Forest Park Straddling the Hauhungaroa Range some 50km southeast of Te Kuiti, the Pureora Forest Park is accessible by SH30 from the west and SH32 from the east, though there is no public transport. The forest narrowly escaped clearfelling in 1978, and was saved, thanks to a treetop protest. Along with Little Barrier Island and a few pockets around Rotorua, this broad-leaf environment is now one of the few remaining habitats of the rare North Island kokako. A bluish-grey bird distinguished by the bright blue wattles on either cheek, it flies poorly, preferring to hop among the branches and nest close to the ground. At the western entrance to the forest, 46km from Te Kuiti, is the DOC Pureora Field Centre (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; T 07/878 1080). Here you can get leaflets describing various walks, and details of the simple Ngaherenga DOC campsite ($8), 1km north. Half a kilometre north of the field centre is the wheelchair-accessible Totara Walk (800m loop; 15–30min). Immediately south

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of the campsite, a signposted road runs 3km to the Forest Tower, giving a twelve-metre-high protestor’s-eye view of the surrounding area, close to the site of the landmark anti-logging protest. A fifteen-minute drive northeast of the field centre, along SH30, leads to the Pouakani Tree, the largest totara ever recorded.

The SH3 from Te Kuiti to Taranaki WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Southwest of Te Kuiti, SH3 makes a beeline for the Tasman Sea and the small coastal town of Mokau, before twisting its way through tiny communities, sandwiched between spectacular black beaches and steep inland ranges. Opportunities for exploration focus on walks near the Tongaporutu rivermouth, and there’s refreshment a little further on at an excellent micro-brewery. Eventually the scenery opens out onto the Taranaki Plains just north of New Plymouth (see p.258). Mokau

| The King Country

The tiny community of MOKAU, 73km southwest of Te Kuiti, perches on a rise above the Mokau Estuary where the historic MV Cygnet (T 0800/665 2874) and Glen Royal (T 06/752 9036) operate cruises upriver (Oct–May; $40). Both concentrate on local history, passing a number of points of interest, old coal workings and abandoned farms. The river is noted for its run of whitebait, and in season (mid-Aug to end Nov), there are plenty of opportunities to sample the fish in local restaurants. The estuary also has good swimming, though the two local black-sand surf beaches – Mokau and Rapanui – have dangerous undertows and are best left to surfers and those after the region’s abundant shellfish. The wild scenery hereabouts provided the backdrop for several scenes from Jane Campion’s 1993 film The Piano, particularly in the bush scenes and the fence line, seen in silhouette, along which the daughter dances. In town, the local Tainui Museum (daily 10am–4pm; donation), charts the history of the small Maori settlements on either side of the Mokau rivermouth and of the subsequent 1840 European settlement beside the coal-rich river. Just over 2km north along SH3, the Maniaroa Marae and pa is the resting place of the Tainui canoe’s anchor stone (see p.246), a historic waka and some excellent woodcarvings; on entering the marae driveway, keep left to reach the cemetery, where the anchor stone must be observed from outside the gates. Buses between Auckland and New Plymouth stop outside the Whitebait Inn (T 06/752 9713; camping $8.50, 1 ), where you can get accommodation in cabins and excellent-value whitebait meals ($22) or whitebait burgers ($7.50). From there, it’s 100m north to the cosy Palm House Backpackers (T 06/752 9081, W www.mttaranaki.co.nz; dorms $25, plus $3 for linen, 2 ) and a similar distance north to the museum, which acts as an unofficial visitor centre. Tongaporutu and White Cliffs Brewery

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Continuing south along the coast, after 18km you come to a fascinating sea cave just south of the Tongaporutu rivermouth. Signalled by two rock stacks on the beach opposite the entrance, the cave bears ancient footprints on its upper walls, about 4m up from the floor. For many years this coastal, tidedependent route was the only access for Maori travelling between the Waikato and Taranaki districts, and the cave provided shelter. Local lore has it that the infamous chief Te Rauparaha, along with his most trusted female companion, rested in a sea cave to recover from a debilitating attack of boils. While the boils were lanced, the chief braced himself against the cave wall and, due to the combination of the sudden pain and his great strength, left impressions of his

hands and feet in the rock. The chief was reputed to have six toes – as do eight of the foot imprints in the cave. A little over 30km on, and just north of Urenui, keep your eyes skinned for the White Cliffs Organic Brewery (daily 10am–6pm; T 06/752 3676, W www.organicbeer.co.nz), a tiny organic micro-brewery of international standing. It produces just two brews, Mike’s Mild Ale and Mountain Lager; the friendly staff can give you a quick tour of the facilities.

Practicalities

Buses stop on Hakiaha Street (SH4) outside the train station and visitor centre (Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; T 07/895 7494, W www.visitruapehu.com), which has Internet access, Whanganui National Park Hut and Camp passes and other general information. Motel accommodation is available at Alexander Spa Motel, 6 Marae St (T 07/895 8501, W www.alexandermotel.co.nz; 4 ), camping and decent cabins at Taumarunui Holiday Park, 4km south on SH4 (T 07/895 9345, W www .taumarunuiholidaypark.co.nz; camping $11, cabins 1 , units 2 ), wedged between a patch of native bush and the Whanganui River. For eating, Rivers II Café, corner of Hakiaha and Marae streets, is good for snack lunches but for something a bit more classy head to the western end of town and The Flax, at the corner of Hakiaha Street and River Road (T 07/895 6611; closed Mon, and Tues evening).

| The King Country

With its declining population and dwindling industries, five-thousand-strong TAUMARUNUI, 82km from Te Kuiti and 45km from National Park, feels run-down. For most travellers the only reason to stop is to use the town as a base for canoe or jetboat forays into the Whanganui National Park (see p.271) or follow the Forgotten World Highway towards Mount Taranaki. Surrounded by national parks and forests at the confluence of the Ongarua and Whanganui rivers, Taumarunui was one of the last places to be settled by Europeans, who arrived in large numbers in 1908, when the railway came to town. Finding a suitable route for the track on its steep descent north towards Taumarunui from the area around the Tongariro National Park proved problematic, but surveyor R.W. Holmes’ ingenious solution, the Raurimu Spiral, is a remarkable feat of engineering combining bridges and tunnels to loop the track over itself. The spiral, still in use, can be seen from a signposted viewpoint 37km south of Taumarunui on SH4. Rail fans will want to view the model of the spiral in the Taumarunui visitor centre.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Taumarunui

The Forgotten World Highway For a taste of genuinely rural New Zealand, it’s hard to beat the Forgotten World Highway between Taumarunui and Stratford (SH43), a rugged 155kilometre road that twists through the hills west of Taumarunui. All but a tenkilometre stretch through the Tangarakau Gorge is sealed, but reckon on three hours for the journey. The first notable stop is the Nukunuku Museum (see p.274; entry by appointment T 07/896 6365), 4km down Saddler Road. Back on SH43, the road snakes through the sedimentary limestone of the Tangarakau Gorge, possibly the highlight of the trip, with steep bush-draped cliffs rising up above the river. At the entrance to the gorge, a small sign directs you along a short trail to the picturesque site of Joshua Morgan’s grave, the final resting place of an

255

early surveyor. At the crest of a ridge you pass through the dark Moki Tunnel, then soon come across the delightful Kaieto Café (T 06/762 5858, W www .kaietocafe.co.nz; camping and vans $10, cabins 1 ), perched on a ridge with fabulous views. Whangamomona

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Taranaki

A steady descent brings you alongside a little-used rail line that runs parallel to the road as far as the village of WHANGAMOMONA, around 90km from Taumarunui. The thirty residents are boosted in January, every oddnumbered year, by hordes from Auckland and Hamilton who come to celebrate the town’s independence, declared on October 28, 1989 after the government altered the provincial boundaries, removing it from Taranaki. The republic swears in a president and in full party mood hosts whip-cracking and gumboot-throwing competitions, amid much drinking and eating. Celebrations revolve around the 1911 Whangamomona Hotel on Ohura Road (T 06/762 5823, W www.whangamomonahotel.co.nz), where you can get your passport stamped or buy a Whangamomonian version ($3), while wetting your whistle. The hotel serves meals, offers dinner, bed and breakfast for $100 a head and is open daily till the barman goes to bed. There’s B&B accommodation across the road at M&M’s (T 06/762 5596; $75 a head) and the simple Whangamomona Village Motor Camp (T 06/762 5822), a kilometre down the road: camping ($10 per tent) and bargain cabins ($20). Leaving Whangamomona, SH43 climbs beside steep bluffs and passes a couple of saddles with views down the valley and across the Taranaki Plains. It then descends to flat dairy pasture, eventually rolling into Stratford (see p.268) as the permanently snowcapped Mount Taranaki looms into view, if the weather allows.

Taranaki

256

The province of Taranaki juts out west from the rest of the North Island forming a thumbprint peninsula centred on Maunga Taranaki (aka Mount Egmont), an elegant conical volcano rising 2500m from the subtropical coast to its icy summit. Taranaki means “peak clear of vegetation”, an appropriate description of the upper half of “the mountain” as it is referred to locally. The mountain remains a constant presence as you tour the region, though much of the time it is obscured by cloud. The summit is usually visible in the early morning and just before sunset, with cloud forming through the middle of the day – the bane of summit aspirants who slog for no view. Much of your time in Taranaki is likely to be spent in New Plymouth, a vibrant provincial capital, with a couple of worthwhile sights and a decent selection of places to stay and eat. It’s a good base for day-trips into the Egmont National Park, surrounding the mountain, or for short forays to the surfing and windsurfing hotspot of Oakura. While New Plymouth and Egmont National Park are the undoubted highlights of the province, rural Taranaki has a few minor attractions, best sampled on a one- or two-day loop around the mountain. On the coastal SH45 Surf Highway west around the mountain, these are supplemented by ocean views from the multitude of surf beaches, while Hawera, has a couple of entertaining museums and the opportunity to go dam dropping.

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According to Maori (see box, p.334), the mountain-demigod Taranaki fled here from the company of the other mountains in the central North Island. He was firmly in place when spotted by the first European in the area, Cook, who named the peak Egmont after the first Lord of the Admiralty. In the early nineteenth century few Maori were living in the area as annual raids by northern tribes had forced many to migrate with Te Rauparaha to Kapiti Island.

257

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Taranaki

This played into the hands of John Lowe and Richard Barrett who, in 1828, established a trading and whaling station on the Ngamotu Beach on the northern shores of the peninsula. In 1841, the Plymouth Company dispatched six ships of English colonists to New Zealand, settling at Lowe and Barrett’s outpost. Mostly from the West Country, the new settlers named their community New Plymouth, now the region’s largest city. From the late 1840s many Maori returned to their homeland, and disputes arose over land sold to settlers, which from 1860 culminated in a ten-year armed conflict, the Taranaki Land Wars. These formed part of the wider New Zealand Wars and slowed the development of the region, leaving a legacy of Maori grievances, some still being addressed. Once hostilities were over, the rich farmlands that had caused so much strife were put to good use, primarily as grazing grounds for dairy cattle. For the next seventy years it seemed as though small dairy companies were springing up everywhere, but as economies of scale became increasingly important, operations were consolidated and most plants closed down, finally leaving just one huge complex outside Hawera. The discovery in the early 1970s of large deposits of natural gas off the Taranaki coast diverted attention from milk and cheese towards petrochemical industries. The government paid huge sums to American and Japanese firms for prefabricated modular factories, which were shipped over and assembled, mostly around Motonui, 20km east of New Plymouth. As gas supplies dwindled plants were mothballed, awaiting hoped-for new finds.

New Plymouth and around The city of New Plymouth, on the northern shore of the peninsula, is the commercial heart of Taranaki, bustling with prosperity and bristling with a sense of importance. Port Taranaki, at the edge of the city, serves as New Zealand’s western gateway and is the only deep-water international port on the west coast. That said this is still a small city with a tight grid of central streets flanked by an attractive waterfront enhanced by Len Lye’s Wind Wand (see p.261). A couple of streets back is the admirable Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, and a regional museum and gallery complex known as Puke Ariki. Just offshore is the Sugar Loaf Islands Marine Reserve, a haven for wildlife above and beneath the sea, and south of town is Carrington Road, a picturesque drive leading to the colourful rhododendron gardens of Pukeiti, past a historic cottage and a small zoo. Arrival, information and transport

258

From the airport, 12km northeast of town, Withers Coachlines shuttle into the city on request (T06/751 1777; $20 for one person, $24 for two). Longdistance buses (InterCity/Newmans and Dalroy’s) stop at the bus station at 19 Ariki St, just along from the i-SITE visitor centre, 65 St Aubyn St (daily 9am–6pm except Wed till 9pm, Sat & Sun till 5pm; T06/759 6060, Wwww.newplymouthnz.com), in the foyer of the Puke Ariki museum. The visitor centre should be your first stop for Egmont National Park information, but there is also a DOC office at 220 Devon St West (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm). Both sell hut tickets. Local bus services are run by Okato Bus Lines (T 07/758 2799), but there are few useful routes and services are infrequent. A couple of companies, including Withers (see above), run shuttles to the mountain.

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Accommodation

New Plymouth has a range of modestly priced accommodation, as well as options outside of town, either at the surf beach of Oakura (see p.269), or on the flanks of the mountain (see pp.266, 267). Hotels, motels, farmstays and B&Bs Airlie House 161 Powderham St T06/757 8866, W www.airliehouse.co.nz. Gracious, tastefully furnished B&B in a large villa dating from the turn of the last century, with crisp modern decor. There’s a family suite and a studio apartment; one room is en suite, the other has a private bathroom with a claw-foot bath. 5

Devon Hotel 390 Devon St East T 0800/843 338, W www.devonhotel.co.nz. A smart business hotel with a heated pool and spa, buffet restaurant and range of rooms, including some pricey suites. 4 Issey Manor 32 Carrington St T06/758 2375, W www.isseymanor.co.nz. Chic modern design characterizes these four rooms in a suburban house, with a good-sized deck overlooking a stream. 5 –6

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WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Taranaki Len

Nice Hotel 71 Brougham St T06/758 6423, W www.nicehotel.co.nz. Book in advance to ensure you get one of the seven unique rooms in this intimate, centrally located boutique hotel, with designer bathrooms, contemporary artworks and luxurious ﬁttings. There’s also a good on-site bistro (dinner only). 7 260

Hostels and campsites Belt Road Seaside Holiday Park 2 Belt Rd T 0800 804 204, Wwww.beltroad.co.nz. A scenic,

Lye’s Wind Wand

seaside clifftop site, 20min walk from the city centre, with camping and cabins (some en suite) in a tidy sheltered area. Camping $15, cabins 1 , kitchen cabins & units 3 Eco Inn 671 Kent Rd, off SH3, between New Plymouth and Egmont Village T06/752 2765, Wwww.ecoinn.co.nz. 3km from the Egmont National Park boundary. Accommodation on an eco farm with wind turbines, a water wheel and the solar panels supplying energy. There’s also a wood-ﬁred hot tub, and good hiking. Pick-ups available. Camping $18, 1

Egmont Eco Lodge YHA 12 Clawton St T06/753 5720, W www.mttaranaki.co.nz. A friendly hostel set in a peaceful garden, reached along a gentle streamside walking track (15min) from the city centre. Camping $16, dorms $25, rooms 2 , en-suite apartment 3 Shoestring Backpackers & Cottage Mews Motel 48 Lemon St T 06/758 0404,

W www.shoestring.co.nz. A 5min walk from the visitor centre, this self-catering joint, with a roomy kitchen and dining room, is one of the best in town. Choose from four-shares, doubles, twins or singles in the charming old house, or stay in the bargain motel units next door. There’s also a sauna ($8). Dorms $25, rooms 2 , units 3

Len Lye

| Taranaki

Arriving in the centre of New Plymouth, you can’t miss the Wind Wand, a slender, bright-red, 45-metre carbon-fibre tube topped with a light globe that glows red in the dark and sways mesmerizingly in the wind. Designed by Len Lye (see box below) in 1962, it wasn’t actually constructed until 2000, but has fast established itself as a regional icon. Though a smaller version was constructed in Greenwich Village in 1962, and a slightly larger one at the Toronto International Sculpture Symposium in 1966, Lye’s true vision was restricted by the technology of the1960s; more recent advances in polymer engineering enabled the construction of the New Plymouth full-size model. That said, Lye’s vision was greater still, but it seems unlikely

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

The waterfront

All of a sudden it hit me – if there was such a thing as composing music, there could be such a thing as composing motion. After all, there are melodic ﬁgures, why can’t there be ﬁgures of motion? Len Lye

New Zealand-born sculptor, ﬁlm-maker and conceptual artist Len Lye (1901–80) was little known outside the art world but his work has now earned wider recognition. Born in Christchurch, Lye developed a fascination with movement, one that expressed itself in his late teens in early experiments in kinetic sculpture. His interest in Maori and other indigenous art encouraged him to travel widely, studying Australian Aboriginal and Samoan dance. Adapting indigenous art to the precepts of the Futurist and Surrealist movements coming out of Europe, he experimented with sculpture, batik, painting, photography and animated “cameraless” ﬁlms (he painstakingly stencilled, scratched and drew on the actual ﬁlm). Lye spent time working on his ﬁlms in London, but towards the end of World War II joined the European artistic exodus and ended up in New York. Here he returned to sculpture, ﬁnding that he could exploit the ﬂexibility of stainless-steel rods, loops and strips to create abstract “tangible motion sculptures” designed to “make movement real”. The erratic movements of these motor-driven sculptures give them an air of anarchy, that is most evident in his best-known work, 1977’s Trilogy (more commonly referred to as Flip and Two Twisters), three motorized metal sheets that wildly shake and contort until winding down to a ﬁnal convulsion. Lye envisaged his works as being monumental and set outdoors, but was always aware of the technical limitations of his era and considered his projects to be works of the twenty-ﬁrst century. Just before his death in New York in 1980, friend, patron and New Plymouth resident, John Matthews, helped set up the Len Lye Foundation, which brought most of Lye’s scattered work to New Plymouth’s Govett-Brewster Art Gallery. The foundation has been instrumental in furthering Lye’s work. The Wind Wand is the most visible and largest product of their efforts but the foundation has also been instrumental in creating Lye’s Water Whirler on the Wellington waterfront (see p.470).

261

that his forest of 125 wind wands swaying together in the breeze will be built in the near future. Landscaping and pathways stretch a couple of hundred metres either side of the Wind Wand, making a waterfront park that’s pleasant for an evening stroll. More ambitious walkers can follow the Coastal Walkway that stretches some 3km in each direction. Downtown New Plymouth WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Taranaki

The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, at the corner of Queen and King streets (daily 10.30am–5pm; free; W www.govettbrewster.org.nz), is one of the country’s finest contemporary art galleries. It is home to the Len Lye Foundation, owns a huge permanent collection of Lye’s work, and as of 2010 will have a centre for exhibiting Lye’s work adjacent to the gallery. Currently the gallery has only a small amount on display but some of Lye’s films and a documentary on his life and work can usually be seen; if none are showing, ask. The gallery has no other permanent exhibits but puts on a series of temporary exhibitions with a contemporary bias. There’s also a good art and design bookshop and an excellent café. The other central highlight is Puke Ariki, St Aubyn Street (Mon–Fri 9am– 6pm, Wed till 9pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; free; W www.pukeariki.com), a combined visitor centre, city library, interactive regional museum and exhibition space. The museum kicks off with the multimedia “Taranaki Experience” (12min; free), a rowdy promo for the province, but gets better upstairs, where the extensive Maori section includes the canoe that brought Taranaki Maori to New Zealand, and volcanic rock carvings and woodcarvings of a style unique to Taranaki. The museum site also encompasses Richmond Cottage on Ariki Street (Sat & Sun 11am–3.30pm; free), an 1854 stone dwelling built for local MP Christopher William Richmond, and moved to its current site in 1962. Following Brougham Street south from Puke Ariki, you reach Vivian Street and the Frederick Thatcher-designed St Mary’s Church, the oldest stone church in New Zealand. Built in 1845 along austere lines with an imposing gabled dark-wood interior, it contains a striking 1972 Maori memorial with carvings and tukutuku panels. Immediately behind the church, Marsland Hill Reserve contains the Observatory, Robe Street (Tues: summer 8–10pm; winter 7.30–9.30pm; donation), where members of the Astronomical Society volunteer to point out highlights in the night sky for visitors. Pukekura Park

262

One of New Zealand’s finest city parks backs Downtown New Plymouth, Pukekura Park and Brooklands (daily dawn–dusk; free). The Pukekura section is mostly semi-formal, with glasshouses, a boating lake and a cricket pitch. The more freely laid out Brooklands section occupies the grounds of a long-gone homestead and includes the Bowl of Brooklands outdoor amphitheatre and numerous mature trees, among them a 2000-year-old puriri and a big ginkgo. Nearby, a former colonial hospital from 1847 is now the Gables (Jan daily 1–4pm; Feb–Dec Sat & Sun 1–4pm; free), containing an art gallery and medical museum. The area is best on summer evenings when the Pukekura section is given over to the annual festival of lights (mid-Dec to mid-Feb nightly dusk–10.45pm; free), a good time to walk gorgeously lit pathways between illuminated trees, and take out rowing boats festooned with lights while listening to live music, most nights.

Paritutu Rock and the Sugar Loaf Marine Reserve

If you have your own wheels follow Carrington Street (which later becomes Carrington Road) south of the city towards the Taranaki foothills. First stop, 8km south, is the historic Hurworth Cottage, 906 Carrington Rd (Sat & Sun 11am–3pm and by appointment; $5; T 06/753 3593). Built in 1856, the original occupier was Harry Atkinson, four times Prime Minister of New Zealand, famous for advocating women’s suffrage and introducing welfare benefits. Around 20km from New Plymouth lies Pukeiti, 2290 Carrington St (daily: Sept–March 9am–5pm; April–Aug 10am–3pm; $12; W www.pukeiti.org.nz), a rainforest garden with New Zealand’s largest collection of rhododendrons and azaleas, best seen in October and November during the rhododendron festival.

| Taranaki

Carrington Street

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

New Plymouth’s port and ugly power station lie 4km west of the town centre at the foot of the 200-metre-high Paritutu Rock, a feature of great cultural significance to Maori and a near-perfect natural fortress that still marks the boundary between Taranaki and Te Atiawa territories. Despite its cultural significance you are free to climb from a car park on Centennial Drive, signposted off Vivian Street. It’s a steep scramble (20–50min return) with a steel rope providing support, but the reward is a great view of the coast and cluster of rocky islands that comprise the DOC-administered Sugar Loaf Marine Reserve. These eroded remnants of ancient volcanoes were occupied by Maori but were given their name by Captain Cook in 1770. The islands provide sanctuary for rare plants, little blue penguins, petrels and sooty shearwaters; the surrounding waters harbour abundant marine life, including 67 species of fish and a wealth of multicoloured anemones, sponges and seaweeds in undersea canyons. Humpback whales (Aug & Sept) and dolphins (Oct–Dec) migrate past the islands and the tidal rocks are populated by New Zealand’s northernmost breeding colony of fur seals. The islands themselves are off-limits, but Chaddy’s Charters run mildly eccentric trips around them (3 daily; 1hr; $30; T 06/758 9133) in an old lifeboat, launched at high tide from its shed at Ocean View Parade marina, 3km west of downtown, otherwise boarded from the jetty.

Eating, drinking and entertainment

The majority of the cafés, restaurants, bars and clubs are on what is known as the Devon Mile, along Devon Street between Dawson and Eliot streets. Also along here is the Top Town Cinema 5, 119–125 Devon St East (T 06/759 9077), showing mainstream movies. In recent times a second culinary hotspot has sprung up at Port Taranaki, where if you fancy harbourside dining you could do worse than Bach on the Breakwater, or Gusto. For those of a more cultural persuasion, the biennial Taranaki Festival of the Arts (W www.taranakifest.org.nz) takes place every odd-numbered year at venues all over town in late July and early August. Lasting around three weeks, it’s the biggest provincial arts festival in New Zealand. In mid-March the city hosts WOMAD, a three-day festival of world music (W www .womad.co.nz). Andre 37–43 Brougham St (T06/758 4812). Stunning, legendary New Plymouth eatery where local ingredients are cooked to perfection with a guiding French inﬂuence, brought by the ruddy-faced Andre, something of a local character. Mains $35–45.

Arborio in Puke Ariki, overlooking the Wind Wand (T06/759 1241). A brilliant, licensed, modern café with imaginative breakfasts, including bubble and squeak, and delicious dinners ranging from steaks to clams, with DJ Fridays and Jazz Sundays.

263

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Daily News Café Level 1 in the library, Ariki St. Small, tranquil daytime café, stocked with newspapers from across the country and around the world, serving coffee and snacks. Elixar 117 Devon St East. Daytime café, with a small, well-made selection of panini, bagels and wraps. Closed Sun. Marinovich’s 19 Brougham St T06/758 4749. Fish and seafood restaurant that’s been going in New Plymouth since 1927. Wonderfully fresh ﬁsh and good steaks (from $30). Matinee 69 Devon St West. A cool all-day café, coffee shop and bar that gets lively on Friday and Saturday nights with DJs and bands. Metropol Corner of King & Egmont sts T06/758 9788. A relaxed and airy restaurant with an imagi-

native European-inﬂuenced menu, and dishes around the $30 mark. They’re well presented, tasty and accompanied by a select range of wines (many by the glass). The Mill 2 Courtenay St. A massive converted ﬂour mill with several bars for the late-night crowd, a wide range of beers and snacks, and live bands (or more likely a DJ playing Top 40 hits) at weekends. Peggy Gordon’s Celtic Bar Corner of Egmont & Devon sts With pictures of Irish and Scottish folk heroes on the walls, an extensive range of single malt whiskies, twelve beers on tap, meals under $20 and live Irish music on Fri & Sat nights, it’s no surprise that this is a popular haunt for both locals and travellers. The Basement Bar showcases alternative bands.

Listings

| Taranaki

Automobile Association 49–55 Powderham St T 06/968 7840. Banks and exchange Banks have branches along or just off Devon St. Holiday Shoppe, 120 Devon St East (T 06/968 3707) does foreign exchange and is the American Express agent. Bike rental $20 a day at Cycle Inn, 133 Devon St East (T 06/758 7418). Camping and outdoor equipment Kiwi Outdoors, 18 Ariki St (T06/758 4152), rent and sell outdoor gear and camping equipment, including ice axes and crampons. They also have kayaks from $45 a day. Car rental Major operators at the airport, local agencies include Russell Rentals (T06/751 0772), who have vehicles from $40 a day.

Medical treatment There’s medical and dental care and a pharmacy (daily 8.30am–9pm) at Medicross, Richmond Centre, 8 Egmont St (T06/759 8915). Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce, with a poste restante service, is at 21 Currie St (Mon–Fri 7.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm). Swimming The New Plymouth Aquatic Centre, Tisch Ave, Kawaroa Park (T06/759 6060; daily till 7pm or later), is a massive complex with indoor and outdoor pools, water slides, wave machine, gym and ﬁtness suite.

Egmont National Park

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The whole western third of the North Island is dominated by Taranaki (Mount Egmont) a dormant volcano that last erupted in 1755. Its profile is a cone rising to 2518 metres, a purity of form favourably compared to Japan’s Mount Fuji. In winter, snow blankets the mountain but as summer progresses only the crater remains white. The mountain is the focal point for EGMONT NATIONAL PARK, the boundary forming an arc with a ten-kilometre radius around the mountain, interrupted only on its north side where it encompasses the Kaitake Range, an older more weathered cousin of Taranaki. Farmland lies all about, but within the national park the mountain’s lower slopes are cloaked in native bush that gradually changes to stunted flag-form trees, lopsidedly shaped by the constant buffeting of the wind. Higher still, vegetation gives way to slopes of loose scoria (a kind of jagged volcanic gravel), hard work if you’re hiking. Three sealed roads climb the sides of the mountain, all on the eastern side, all ending a little under halfway up at car parks from where the park’s 140km of walking tracks spread out. Of these North Egmont is the most easily accessible from New Plymouth but you can get higher up the mountain on the road through East Egmont; and there’s particularly good walking (and the best

Maori in the modern world Comprising roughly ﬁfteen percent of the population, New Zealand’s Maori are the country’s largest minority. These days Maori culture is cool: it fascinates and inspires because of its voyaging history, its strong tribal customs and its contemporary take on traditional artistry. Interwoven with these appealing physical forms is a deep spirituality that connects the people with the natural world and their ancestors. The following is a glimpse of what it means to be Maori, and how visitors are likely to tap into it – there’s more extensive coverage on issues and culture in Contexts (see p.893).

Maori identity

Tino rangatiratanga ﬂag The haka

New Zealand’s Maori have never been marginalized like Native Americans or Australian Aborigines. There are no reservations, and Maori take part in all walks of life – as lawyers, MPs, university lecturers, even as the Governor-General (the Queen’s representative in New Zealand). But all is not rosy. Average incomes are lower than those of Pakeha, almost half of all prison inmates are Maori, only around a quarter of Maori achieve post-school qualifications and Maori health statistics make appalling reading. There is considerable intermarriage between Maori and Pakeha, a fact that led one academic to speculate “race relations will be worked out in the bedrooms of New Zealand”. Government policy calls for a bicultural approach, whereby everyone lives, works and plays together, but white and brown peoples can maintain a distinct identity. Among the more radical factions of Maoridom (see p.889), there are calls for Maori sovereignty under the banner of Tino rangatiratanga, meaning Maori control of all things Maori. Supporters might fly the flag at home or sport a T-shirt bearing the movement’s symbol – a stylized white fern frond between fields of red and black. Knowledge of whakapapa (tribal lineage) is central to a sense of place in the Maori world. At any formal event, elders will recite their whakapapa, stretching as far back as the canoes that their ancestors first came to New Zealand in, then honour the mountains, rivers, forests and seas that give meaning to their people. Oratory, and the ability to produce a song at a moment’s notice are both

highly valued. One Maori concept that has crossed over to general Kiwi culture is that of mana, a synthesis of prestige, charisma and influence, which increases through brave or compassionate actions and is reduced by foolish or lazy ones.

Hongi, the ceremonial touching of noses Wero – a challenge and a greetinga

Kawa, hongi and hangi The most direct and popular introduction to Maori culture is a concert and hangi (feast). Virtually all visitors to Rotorua attend one of these, generally authentic, gigs and it’s also possible to visit one in Christchurch or Queenstown. Both concert and hangi usually take place on a marae, a traditional compound that acts as meeting place, cultural hub, drop-in centre and spiritual home for a hapu, or group of extended families. Kawa (protocols) governing behaviour dictate that visitors must be challenged to determine friendly intent before being allowed onto the marae. As visitors, you elect a “chief ” who represents you during this wero, where a fearsome warrior bears down on you with twirling taiaha (long club), flicking tongue and bulging eyes. Once a ritual gift has been accepted, the women make the karanga (welcoming call), followed by their powhiri (sung welcome). This acts as a prelude to ceremonial touching of noses, hongi, binding hosts and visitors. And so begins the concert, performed in traditional costume. Highlights are the men’s haka, familiar to all rugby fans, and the women’s poi dance, in which tennis-ball-sized clumps of a kind of bulrush are swung rhythmically about the body and head. The concert is followed by the hangi, a feast traditionally steamed in an earth oven or, in Rotorua, over a geothermal vent.

Poi dance

Carving and tattooing

Hei tiki Traditional moko tatoo

Maori woodcarving is unmistakable, with a dense background of swirls, organic forms and fern fronds, overlaid with stylized figures and often inset with paua (abalone) shell. One, often repeated, element is the ancestor figure, the hei tiki, a human form distorted as to be almost unrecognizable, except for the challenge of a protruding tongue. Several places around the country offer the opportunity to try your hand at carving, usually on bone. There’s a more restrained style to carved pounamu (greenstone). Some of the best pieces follow ancient styles, featuring large areas of highly polished pounamu set off by small areas of intricately worked swirls. In recent years there’s also been a return to the art of moko (tattooing), in which highly symbolic patterns are carved into a person’s face from their teens onwards, reflecting birthright and key achievements. Today you’ll usually see moko on arms, legs and back, but some Maori have gone for full-face moko.

Experiencing Maori culture Exploring Northland with Taiamai Tours

While the elements of concert and hangi nights are authentic enough, the ensemble can seem contrived. The following tours and lodgings offer opportunities to dig deeper. Footprints Waipoua, Northland. See p.224. Kapiti Island, near Wellington. See p.292. Maori Tours, Kaikoura. See p.560. Taiamai Tours, Northland. See p.189. Waka Tours, Whanganui See p.275.

With accommodation close to all three major trailheads, it makes sense for avid hikers to base themselves inside the park. Day visitors can easily visit from New Plymouth, Stratford (see p.268) or Hawera (see p.269) with all trailheads accessible in under an hour by car. Shuttle buses run from New Plymouth and Stratford, Cruise NZ Tours (T 06/758 3222, E [emailprotected]; $38 return), dropping off at 7.30am in North Egmont, picking up at 4.30pm. Alternatively, try Taranaki Tours (T 0800/886 877, W www.taranakitours.com; $40 return, on demand), who also run round the mountain trips (full-day $135). If you’d rather go on guided walks, call either Adventure Dynamics (T 06/751 3589, W www.adventuredynamics.co.nz) or Mac Alpine (T 0800/866 484, W www.macalpineguides.com). Both offer bushwalking, guided summit treks and a range of more technical stuff. Guides will take up to ten clients for summer hiking and summit attempts but perhaps only two for winter expeditions, rock climbing or instruction. Guiding rates are around $350 a day, plus $50 for each extra person in the summer and start at $400 a day in the winter. If you’re here in February try to join one of the local alpine clubs’ inexpensive day-trips to the summit, enquire through DOC.

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Transport and guides

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alpine accommodation) around Dawson Falls. Both the DOC office and visitor centre in New Plymouth have information on the park, and anyone interested in relatively easy hikes should obtain DOC’s Short Walks in Egmont National Park brochure ($2.50). The main visitor centre is in North Egmont (see below). Although the hike to the summit is exhausting and shouldn’t be underestimated, it is possible in a day for anyone reasonably fit. The upper mountain is off limits to ordinary hikers in winter, but even during the hiking season (Jan to mid-April) bad weather, including occasional snow, sweeps in frighteningly quickly, and hikers starting off on a fine morning frequently find themselves groping through low cloud before the day is through. Deaths occur far too often: be sure to consult our hiking advice in Basics (see p.63) and get further advice and an up-to-date weather forecast from local visitor centres or DOC offices. You should always take warm clothing, at any time of year, climb with at least one companion or a mountain guide, and leave a record of your intentions. A free DOC information sheet supplied by the visitor centres outlines the routes, covered on pp.267–268. Ideally carry an ice axe, which can be rented from Kiwi Outdoors in New Plymouth (see p.264).

Egmont Village and North Egmont

The easiest access point to the park, and the closest to New Plymouth, is tiny Egmont Village, 13km southeast of New Plymouth on SH3. From here, the sixteen-kilometre sealed Egmont Road runs up the mountain to North Egmont (960m), the best base for summit ascents. Before heading up (or out on any of the numerous easier tracks), be sure to call at the park’s main information source, the North Egmont visitor centre (daily: Oct–April 8am–4pm; May–Sept 8.30am–4pm; T 06/756 0990, E [emailprotected]), that has displays about the mountain, maps of all the tracks, good viewing windows, weather updates and a decent café. Short walks around North Egmont include an unusual and atmospheric tramp (1km loop; 45min–1hr; 100m ascent), through the hidden valley of the Goblin Forest, with its kaikawaka trees, alpine plants and gnarled trunks hung with ferns and mosses. There’s also the Veronica Loop Track (2.5km loop;

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2hr; 200m ascent) which climbs to a ridge through mountain forest and scrub, with fine views of the ancient lava flows known as Humphries Castle, and beyond to New Plymouth and the coast. Note that the supply of water at North Egmont is limited, so bring some with you. Basic backpacker-style accommodation can be found at the Camp House (T 0800/688 2727, W www.mttaranaki.co.nz; dorm $28, 2 ), a large mountain hut built in 1891. It has bunks, a communal lounge with electric heating, a full kitchen and hot showers. Check-in is at the Mountain Café in the visitor centre (generally 8am–7pm). For non-guests, the Camp House offers services such as secure parking, use of a locker and a post-hike shower ($10). If you’re heading up the mountain and expect to be back after the café closes, order in advance and they’ll leave a ready-to-heat meal for you at the Camp House. A Nearby alternative is Rahiri Cottage, (T 0800/688 2727, W www.mttaranaki.co.nz; 5 ), a gatehouse by the park entrance. East Egmont

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The highest road on the mountain goes through East Egmont, a parking area and site of the Mountain House hotel, reached from Stratford, by the Pembroke Road from where it runs 14km west to East Egmont, then 3.5km to The Plateau. On the upper route of the Around the Mountain Circuit (see p.267), The Plateau is a rugged and windswept spot 1172m up on Taranaki’s flanks, acting as the wintertime parking area for the tiny Manganui Ski-field (W www.snow.co.nz/manganui). From East Egmont, the Curtis Falls Track (3.5km return; 2–3hr; 120m ascent) is part of the lower Around the Mountain Circuit and crosses several streams, via steps and ladders, to the Manganui River Gorge, where you can follow the riverbed (no track or signs) to the base of a waterfall.The Enchanted Track (3km one way; 3hr return; 300m ascent) also begins at the car park, heading through dense vegetation before climbing to The Plateau. Accommodation is available at the beautifully sited, completely revamped Mountain House (T 0800/668 682; 4 ), 846m above sea level, with en-suite rooms and self-contained chalets, and a restaurant dishing up reliable mains from $30. The management also run Anderson’s Alpine Lodge (same contact details; 6 ), a chalet-style building with three B&B rooms, 5km downhill. Dawson Falls

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The most southerly access up Taranaki follows Manaia Road to Dawson Falls, roughly 23km west of Stratford and 900m above sea level. Here you’ll find the Dawson Falls visitor centre (8.30am–4pm; T 0274/430 248), outside of which stands an impressive eight-metre pou whenua (carved pole) depicting famous Maori associated with the area. Only experienced hikers should tackle the summit from here (see p.267), but several easier tracks branch off from the visitor centre, notably a short one to the historic Dawson Falls Power Station, a small hydro plant providing power for the Dawson Falls Mountain Lodge since 1935. An obvious goal is the seventeen-metre-high Dawson Falls (600m return; 40min; 30m ascent) that plummet over the end of an ancient lava flow.This hike begins down the road and can be extended along the Kapuni Walk (1km return; 1hr; 50m ascent). Another walk leads to Wilkies Pool (1km loop; 1hr; 100m ascent), where the waters of the Kapuni Gorge rush through a staircase of rock pools, and there’s a tougher hike to Hasties Hill (2km; 1hr 30min–2hr; 100m ascent) involving a passage across the flank of the mountain to a lookout, returning the same way.

Summit hikes and circuit hikes

Summit routes

The Northern Route (10km return; 6–8hr; 1560m ascent) is the most accessible, beginning at the top car park at North Egmont and initially following the gravel Translator Road (the appropriately named “Puffer”) to Tahurangi Lodge, a private hut run by the Taranaki Alpine Club. A wooden stairway leads to North Ridge, after that you’re onto slopes of scoria up the Lizard Ridge leading to the crater. After crossing the crater ice and a short scoria slope, you reach the summit. The longer and poorly marked Southern Route (11km return; 8–10hr; 1620m ascent) is a more exacting proposition, suitable only for those with extensive mountain experience; you’ll need crampons and ice axes year-round. The route starts at the Dawson Falls car park and climbs through bush before making a rapid ascent up a staircase to the Lake Dive Track. From there on, the ascent involves a steep and exhausting series of zigzags up scoria slopes.

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There are two main summit routes, both requiring a full day, so set off early, around 7.30am. Ice axes and crampons are necessary up to January if you are visiting the crater. If you want to spend longer than a day on the mountain and are happy to forgo the summit climb, the Pouakai Circuit or the testing Around the Mountain Circuit (the latter for the most dedicated climbers only) might fit the bill. For those looking to explore the park further, note that a survey is being undertaken by DOC to introduce a new track, the Three Peaks. Loosely based around a three-day tramp taking in the summit of Taranaki, the Pouakai Range and the Kaitake Range, it’s essentially a 40km line heading from North Egmont toward the sea. Check with DOC to see if it’s in place.

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At Dawson Falls there’s budget accommodation at Konini Lodge (T 06/756 0990; $20), an oversized hikers’ hut, sleeping eight (bring a sleeping bag), with a communal lounge, hot showers and a kitchen equipped with stoves and fridges.You can go more upmarket at the nearby Dawson Falls Maintain Lodge (T 06/765 5457, W www.dawson-falls.co.nz), with views from most rooms and a bar and/or sauna for when the weather clags in. They offer a dinner, bed and breakfast deal (single $215, double $350), and non-guests can also dine (mains $20–30). TVs and radios are intentionally absent, and there’s a simple daytime café.

The Around the Mountain Circuit

Dedicated hikers should consider tackling the Around the Mountain Circuit (44km; 3–5 days), an irregular loop around Taranaki varying in altitude from 500m to 1500m. The track is not fully maintained, so check conditions with DOC and in the absence of a printed leaflet, obtain the appropriate Topomap. From December through to February, the snow melts enough for hikers to occasionally loop off the main track onto the more strenuous high-level route, essentially making a few shortcuts by heading higher up the slopes. This way you can shave a day off the lower circuit. There are six well-spaced huts along the way ($10 except for the tiny Kahui hut, $5); use your DOC annual hut passes (see p.62) or buy tickets from the DOC visitor centres. Camping ($5) is only allowed outside the huts. The Pouakai Circuit

Starting at North Egmont, the Pouakai Circuit (25km loop; 2 days) turns its back on the big mountain and heads north around the lower Pouakai

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Range, from where views of Taranaki can be wonderful. The track varies in altitude from 700m to 1300m. Get advice from DOC before embarking. The route has two huts, the 36-bed Holly Hut, which can get very busy, and the less popular 16-bed Pouakai Hut ($10 each). Camping is only allowed outside the huts ($5).

Stratford WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

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SH3 and SH3a meet at Inglewood, a nondescript service town worth a brief stop to sample fare from MacFarlane’s Café, in an 1878 building at the corner of Kelly and Matai streets. Just over halfway between New Plymouth and Hawera, 23km south of Inglewood, is STRATFORD, providing direct access to the slopes of Mount Taranaki, particularly East Egmont and Dawson Falls. If you’re bound for the centre of the North Island, Stratford marks the start of the Forgotten World Highway (see p.255). The town is not an attractive place, though it does have a kitsch mock-Elizabethan clock tower (built in 1996 to hide the 1920s version), from which a life-size Romeo and Juliet emerge to mark the hour (at 10am, 1pm and 3pm), accompanied by recordings of Shakespearean quotes. The logical extension of Stratford’s Shakespearian theme is that every street name is a character from the bard’s plays. From Stratford, 11km toward Mount Taranaki, however, one place of interest can be accessed, the Possum Fur and Leather Shop, 1103 Opunake Rd (T 06/764 6133, W www .envirofur.co.nz), who are protecting New Zealand’s native bush by offering truly lovely products made from possum, including some of the softest leather on the planet. InterCity and Dalroy Express (T 0508/465 622) buses stop outside the i-SITE visitor centre on Prospero Place (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; T 06/765 6708, W www.stratford.govt.nz, E [emailprotected] .nz), up an alley opposite the clock tower. Love of the bard may induce you to stay, in which case try the well-cared-for Stratford Top 10 Holiday Park, 10 Page St (T 06/656 6440, E stratfordtoppark @hotmail.com; camping $14, dorms in backpackers lodge $23, cabins 1 , units 3 ), which is central and has bike rental for $25 a day. For something much more rural, visit Sarsen House Country Lodge, 636 Stanley Rd (T 06/762 8775, W www.tepopo.co.nz; 6 ), 15km northeast of Stratford amid the lovingly tended Te Popo gardens, offering en-suite rooms and an apartment ($170 per night for two, minimum stay three nights). You can self-cater or get dinner by arrangement ($45 including wine). In Stratford, next to the visitor centre is Collage, an airy, licensed café serving delicious meals into the evening.

Along SH45: the Surf Highway

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You can either follow the eastern or western routes round Taranaki, but if you have time the best is the Surf Highway (SH45) from New Plymouth to Hawera, mostly running about 3km inland, with roads leading down to tiny uninhabited bays. It runs for about 100km, but its beachy charms can consume half a day, longer if you want to go surfing. Among surfers it is still something of a backwater but its glassy, even breaks offer consistent surfing. Windsurfing is good too, with near constant onshore winds. Surf beaches are everywhere, but the only surf-oriented communities are Oakura, increasingly populated by New Plymouth commuters, and Opunake, with more of a beach-resort feel. Between is Cape Egmont, with its picturesque lighthouse.

Oakura

At Pungarehu, about 25km southwest of Oakura, Cape Road cuts 5km west to the cast-iron tower of Cape Egmont Lighthouse, moved here in 1877 from Mana Island, north of Wellington. It perches on a rise on the westernmost point of the cape overlooking Taranaki’s windswept coast, a great spot around sunset with the mountain glowing behind. The real surfing hub in these parts is 20km on at Opunake, a large village with a golden beach and little to do but swim, surf and cast a line. Try the Opunake Surf Co (Dreamtime), at the corner of Havelock and Tasman streets for board and gear rental. Places to stay include the beachside Opunake Beach Holiday Camp, Beach Road (T 0800/758 009, E [emailprotected]; camping $13.50, on-site caravans 1 , cottages 2 ), and Opunake Motel and Backpackers, 36 Heaphy Rd (T 06/761 8330, E [emailprotected]; 2 ), which has motel units 3 and a cottage 4 . The best place to eat is the upbeat Sugar Juice Café, 42–44 Tasman St (licensed; Tues–Sun daytime, plus Wed–Sat evening), which also does takeaways.

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Cape Egmont and Opunake

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Seventeen kilometres west of New Plymouth, OAKURA is a dormitory community retaining a hint of counter-cultural spirit thanks to board-riders, here to experience the best windsurfing beach in Taranaki. For surfboard rental, go to Vertigo, 605 Main St (T 06/752 7363, W thewavehaven.co.nz), who also have windsurfing gear, ($75 for a 2hr lesson). If you want to stay, try the Oakura Beach Holiday Park, 2 Jan Terrace (T 06/752 7861, W www.oakurabeach.com; camping $14, cabins 2 unit 4 ), with an onsite café; or head 4km southwest along SH45 to Wave Haven (who also run Vertigo, above), corner of SH45 and Ahu Ahu Road (T 06/752 7800, W www .thewave.haven.co.nz; dorm $20, 2 ), a low-key backpackers with good weekly rates. Ahu Ahu Road runs for 3km down to the coast and to Ahu Ahu Beach Villas at no. 321 (T 06/752 7370, W www.ahu.co.nz; 7 ), several gorgeous selfcontained villas sleeping four, on a rise overlooking the ocean, built from an intriguing blend of salvaged materials with luxurious modern fittings. For food try the licensed Café Wunderbar, just before the BP station on SH45 and opposite the pharmacy (closed Mon).

Hawera A tidy town of eight thousand souls surrounded by gently undulating dairy country, Hawera, is the meeting point of the eastern and western routes around Taranaki. A service and administration centre for the district’s farmers, Hawera’s survival depends on the fortunes of the world’s largest dairy complex south of town.Year-round it handles twenty percent of the country’s milk production, mostly gathered from the rich volcanic soils of Taranaki but also brought by rail from other parts of the North Island. For entertainment try the Tawhiti Museum or possibly a bit of dam dropping. The town and around

Hawera is dominated by its former water tower (daily 10am–2pm; $2), a 54-metre concrete structure offering views over South Taranaki. Completed in 1914 to help fight devastating fires, the tower casts its shadow over the birthplace and hometown of one of New Zealand’s most celebrated authors, Ronald Hugh Morrieson (see p.918), who loved jazz, wrote well-observed and

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amusing Gothic novels about small-town life and liked a drink or two.The only memorial to his existence is Morrieson’s Café and Bar, near the junction of Victoria and High streets, containing a few of his books, the old staircase from his house and tabletops made from timbers salvaged from the said building before it was demolished to make way for KFC. Continuing the quirky theme is the Elvis Presley Memorial Record Room, 51 Argyle St (visits by appointment; T 06/278 7624, W www.digitalus .co.nz/elvis; donation), a garage-shrine to the King. About ten minutes’ walk from the visitor centre, it contains thousands of rare recordings, photographs and memorabilia. The most interesting attraction hereabouts is the Tawhiti Museum and Bush Railway, 401 Ohangai Rd (Jan daily 10am–4pm; June–Aug Sun 10am– 4pm; Sept–Dec & Feb–May Mon & Fri–Sun 10am–4pm; $10, with its own café; W www.tawhitimuseum.co.nz); just off Tawhiti Road, 4km east of Normanby, in turn 6km north of Hawera. The unique and ever expanding exhibits bring the past to life, using a multitude of life-size figurines modelled on local people by owner and creator, Nigel Ogle. The social and technological heritage of both Maori and Pakeha is explored through the extensive use of photographs, models and dioramas, some of the most impressive being representations of pa sites. Other highlights include a diorama of 800 miniatures depicting the 1820s musket wars; an extraordinary account of the 1860s Land Wars, seen through the eyes of a deserter from the British Army who lived out his days with the Ngati Ruanui tribe; and a small-scale bush railway (first Sun in the month; during school holidays also every public holiday & every Sun; $3) that trundles 1km through displays recounting Taranaki’s logging history. For something more adventerous try dam dropping ($100), a variation on whitewater sledging conducted by Kaitiaki Adventures (T 06/752 8242, W www.damdrop.com). You’ll be equipped with a buoyant plastic sledge, wetsuit, helmet and fins, ready to slide six to nine metres down the face of a dam. This is more fun (and less scary) than it sounds and you can do it as many times as you like before the gentle, guided, scenic float down the Wainongoro River. Practicalities

Long-distance buses stop at the i-SITE visitor centre, 55 High St (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.15pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; T 06/278 8599, E visitorinfo@stdc .govt.nz), found near the base of the water tower. There’s no local transport other than taxis (T 06/278 7171). It’s not really worth staying but if you need to, the cheapest accommodation is in the King Edward Park Motorcamp, 70 Waihi Rd (T & F 06/278 8544; camping $8, cabins 1 ). More expensive is boutique B&B in a grand 1875 kauri mansion called Tairoa Lodge, at the corner of Puawai Street and SH3 (T 06/278 8603, W www.tairoa-lodge.co.nz; 6 ), with a pool, mature grounds, en-suite rooms, a two-bedroom cottage and dinners on request (from $45). Out of town you’ll find the peaceful and charming Wheatly Downs Farmstay, 484 Ararata St (T 06/278 6523, W www.mttaranaki.co.nz; tent sites $16, dorms $28, 2 –3 ), 5km past the Tawhiti Museum, with views of Mount Taranaki. For eating, there’s not much choice: Mr Badger’s at the Tawhiti Museum, Morrieson’s Cafe and Bar, or II Chefs, 47 High St (closed Mon & Sun). 270

Patea and Bushy Park Cutting through heavily cultivated farmland, SH3 splits PATEA, the only major community between Hawera and Wanganui. The township has a model

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of the Aotea canoe at the western end of the main street, commemorating the settlement of the area by Turi and his hapu; a good surfing beach at the mouth of the Patea River; and a safe freshwater swimming hole, overlooked by the Manawapou Redoubt and pa site. Some 47km southeast of Patea, 16km northwest of Wanganui, a wellsignposted side road runs 8km east to Bushy Park Homestead & Forest, 791 Rangitatau East Rd (daily 10am–5pm; $6, children free; W www.bushypark .co.nz). The park is the prime attraction in this area not for the charming historic homestead, B&B, backpackers or café but the native bush threaded by tracks. Encircled by a five-kilometre fence, the bush has witnessed the reintroduction of several native birds (North Island robins, moreporks and flocks of kereru) and allows Bushy Park to participate in the Operation Nest Egg programme (see Protecting New Zealand’s native wildlife colour section). North Island brown kiwi run wild in the Park and it will soon be possible to participate in evening tours ($20, or accommodation and meal packages) whereby visitors can see them in the wild. An extension of this is the exciting prospect of joining rangers on monitoring trips, as part of the breeding programme: tracking tagged infant kiwi through bush at night to weighing and checking their progress (around $100, though this is still to be confirmed). You’d need a couple of days to fully explore the bush tracks, but many are content to simply stroll the Ratanui Track (20min loop) past New Zealand’s largest rata tree, 43m tall and 12m in circumference. The daytime entry fee gives access to the 1906 homestead (free guided tours on request), containing some attractive stained-glass windows at the entrance and a carved over-mantel and fireplace in the dining room. A Devonshire tea or light meal taken on the veranda or in the former billiard room seems entirely appropriate and you can stay overnight (T 06/342 9879, W www.bushypark-homestead.co.nz), in the homestead (B&B 5 ; shared bathrooms) or the simple bunkhouse ($25; selfcatering; bring a sleeping bag). Dinner is available by arrangement.

Whanganui National Park The emerald-green Whanganui River tumbles from the northern slopes of Mount Tongariro to the Tasman Sea at Wanganui, passing through the WHANGANUI NATIONAL PARK, a vast swathe of barely inhabited and virtually trackless bush country east of Taranaki. The park contains one of the largest remaining tracts of lowland forest in the North Island, growing on a bed of soft sandstone and mudstone (papa) that has been eroded to form deep gorges, sharp ridges, sheer cliffs and waterfalls. Beneath the canopy of broadleaved podocarps and mountain beech, an understorey of tree ferns and clinging plants extends down to the riverbanks, while abundant and vociferous birdlife includes the kereru (native pigeon), fantail, tui, robin, grey warbler, tomtit and brown kiwi. The best way to explore the Whanganui National Park is on a multi-day canoe trip, providing a safe and reliable route to the wilderness well furnished with riverside campsites, as well as marae and lodge accommodation. You can also hike on two major tracks, relatively easy going despite the rugged country. The most popular exit point for canoe trips is Pipiriki, there’s little to the place except for a few houses and offices for a couple of jetboat operators, running trips upstream, and a welcome café caravan. Most, who aren’t taking a river trip, drive the roads that nibble at the fringes. SH43 provides limited access to the northwest but only the slow and winding

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Whanganui River Road stays near the river for any length of time. This runs off towards Wanganui from near Ohakune on the SH4, a seventy-kilometre drive south of Taumarunui. Information on the national park and the river is most readily available from the DOC office in Wanganui (see p.280), from visitor centres in Wanganui and Taumarunui (see p.255), and from the widely available In and Around the Whanganui National Park booklet ($2.50).

| Whanganui National Park

At 329km, the Whanganui is New Zealand’s longest navigable river, and one that plays an intrinsic part in the lives of local Maori, who hold that each river bend had a kaitiaki (guardian) who controlled the mauri (life force). The mana of the old riverside settlements depended upon the way in which the food supplies and living areas were maintained: sheltered terraces on the riverbanks were cultivated and elaborate weirs constructed to trap eels and lamprey. European missionaries arrived in the 1840s, and soon traders began to exploit the relatively easy route into the interior of the North Island, and by 1891 a regular boat service carried passengers and cargo to settlers establishing towns at Pipiriki and higher up at Taumarunui. In the early twentieth century tourists came too, making the Whanganui New Zealand’s equivalent of the Rhine, with paddle steamers plying the waters to reach elegant hotels en route to Mount Ruapehu and central North Island. European attempts to stamp their mark on this wild landscape have been ill-fated, in 1917 the Mangapurua Valley, in the middle of the park, was opened up for settlement by servicemen returning from World War I. Little did they realize they were trading one battlefield for another. Plagued by economic hardship, remoteness and difficulty of access, many had abandoned their farms by the 1930s. A concrete bridge over the Mangapurua Valley was opened in 1936, but after a major flood in 1942 the bridge was cut off, the three remaining families were ordered out, and the valley officially closed. Today, the only signs of habitation in the valley are the disappearing road, old fence lines, stands of exotic trees planted by the farmers, occasional brick chimneys and the poignant Bridge to Nowhere, a concrete span over a deep gorge that can be reached from the river or on the three-day Mangapurua Track. With the coming of the railway and better roads, the riverboat tourist trade ceased in the 1920s but farms along the Whanganui continued to support a cargo and passenger service until the 1950s, thereafter the wilderness reclaimed land. This attracted recluses and visionaries fleeing the excesses of the civilized world, the most celebrated being poet James K. Baxter, who set up a commune in the 1970s and was held in great affection by local Maori. More recently the river was used extensively in the Vincent Ward movie River Queen.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Some history

Whanganui River trips Canoes, kayaks and jetboats work the river, tailoring trips to your needs. The rapids are mostly Grade I with the occasional Grade II, making this an excellent paddling river for those with little or no experience. That said, the river shouldn’t be underestimated: talk to operators about variations in river flows before embarking. The navigable section of river starts at Cherry Grove in Taumarunui, site of a sporadically staffed DOC office. From here it is about two days’ paddle to

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WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Whanganui National Park

Whakahoro, essentially just a DOC hut and a boat ramp at the end of a 45kilometre road, mostly gravel, running west from SH4. Between these two points the river runs partly through farmland with roads nearby, and throws up a few rapids appreciably larger than those downstream (but still only Grade II). The journey also takes you past several spectacular water cascades and the Nukunuku Museum (entry by appointment; T 07/896 6365). The collection was assembled by Jock Erceg (d. 2001), who spent the latter part of his life trawling the region’s abandoned farmsteads, until eventually half the district started collecting ephemera for him. Further on, a former stronghold of the Hau Hau (see p.400) is the site of a couple of nui poles. Here in 1862 the Hau Hau erected a war pole, Rongonui, with four arms indicating the cardinal points of the compass, intended to call warriors to their cause from all over the country. At the end of hostilities, a peace pole, Rerekore, was erected close by. Downstream from Whakahoro, the rapids are generally Grade I and the paddling easier. You’ll see the Mangapapa Stream Ravine, the Man-o-war Bluff (named for its supposed resemblance to an old iron-clad battleship) and the Tarepokiore Whirlpool, that once completely spun a river steamer. At Mangapurua Landing everyone stops for the easy walk to the Bridge to Nowhere (1hr 15min return), a trail that becomes the Mangapurua Track (see p.273) to Whakahoro. Further downstream you come to Tieke Kainga (aka Tieke Marae), a former DOC hut built on the site of an ancient pa that has been re-occupied by local Maori; you can stay or camp here or across the river at Bridge to Nowhere Lodge, an excellent base for river activities. The last stretch runs past the Puraroto Caves and into Pipiriki, where most paddlers finish. River practicalities

The best source of practical information for river trips is the Whanganui Journey leaflet available from visitor centres and DOC offices in the region. The river is accessible all year, but the paddling season is generally from October to April, when all overnight river users must buy a Hut and Camp Pass. There are three options: “Taumarunui to Whakahoro only” ($10), valid for two days on the river plus a night in one of the three campsites along the upper section of river; “Full Journey” ($45), allowing five days on the river, with the intervening nights spent in any combination of huts and campsites, plus the Tieke Kainga; and the self-explanatory “Journey excluding Tieka Kainga” ($35), aimed mostly at those planning to stay at the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge (see p.275). As all passes carry a $15 surcharge if bought on the river itself, it’s best to buy them at DOC offices or visitor centres in Taumarunui and Wanganui. One of these passes is generally included in the price of organized canoe trips, but it pays to check. From May to September, backcountry $10 hut tickets and annual passes are valid for the huts, and the campsites are free. There are no shops along the river, so you need to take all your supplies with you: Taumarunui and Wanganui have the closest big supermarkets. Accommodation

274

Apart from the huts and campsites, there’s accommodation at the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge (T 0800/480 308, W www.rivercitytours.co.nz), accessible by the river, which it overlooks. The lodge offers home cooking, a bar, simple bunkrooms, doubles and a twin, all sharing bathrooms; you can self-cater (from $45 per person) or go for a dinner, bed and breakfast deal (from $125). There is also a cabin that sleeps six (1 ). Non-canoeists pay extra for a half-hour jetboat

transfer from Pipiriki. Across the river is the relaxing Tieke Kainga, where you can stay in big sleeping huts for a small donation, or camp on terraces by the river (no alcohol allowed); if any of the residents are about, you’ll be treated to an informal cultural experience. You can just turn up, or book ahead through the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge. Jetboat trips and canoe rental

Blazing Paddles 1033 SH4, 10km south of central Taumarunui T 0800/252 946, W www .blazingpaddles.co.nz. Gear rental for self-guided trips, with prices including drop-off, pick-up and the DOC Hut and Camp Pass; they can get you onto the water from Taumarunui, Whakahoro or Ohinepane. Bridge to Nowhere T0800/480 308,W www .bridgetonowheretours.co.nz. Pipiriki-based operator offering combination trips – jetboating upstream and canoeing back down. Canoe Safaris 6 Tay St, Ohakune T 0800/272 335, Wwww.canoesafaris.co.nz. Top-end guided canoe trips, costing from $595 for three days. They also do canoe and kayak rentals, at a premium including transport to and from the river from Ohakune. Wades Landing Outdoors T0800/226 631, W www.whanganui.co.nz. Whakahoro-based operator offering self-guided canoe and kayak trips, three days from Whakahoro to Pipiriki for $190. You can also kayak for a day downstream and catch a jetboat back ($120). Waka Tours 19 George St, Raetihi T06/385 4811, W www.wakatours.net. Excellent three-day guided canoe tours ($610) from Whakahoro on the scenic middle reaches, during which you learn about the river environment from a Maori perspective in an effort to engender a true cultural exchange, take bushwalks and stay in marae.

Yeti Tours T 0800/322 388, Wwww.yetitours .co.nz. Run in conjunction with Matai Lodge (see p.346) and offering guided and self-guided trips on the river from two to ﬁve days (three-day, guided, $575), including transport to launch points or for the tracks, a plethora of gear for hire and lots of help and advice.

| Whanganui National Park

Canoe tours and rentals

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

The quickest way to get about on the river is on jetboat trips (see below): they all run to the start of tramping tracks, drop off for a few days’ hiking and take you pretty much anywhere else you fancy going, but the main destination is the Bridge to Nowhere, which is appreciably closer to Pipiriki. With each jetboat company competing for tourist dollars, the peace and isolation for which the river is famous is sometimes elusive. The beauty, tranquillity and remoteness of the river are best appreciated on canoeing and kayaking trips. These range from one to five days, with most operators offering both guided trips as well as canoe or kayak rentals. The operators also supply most everything you need (except sleeping bags) and trips include transport to and from the river. Taumarunui, National Park and Ohakune are the most common bases. Twoday canoe and kayak trips are normally on the upper section from Taumarunui to Whakahoro, but most people prefer the more scenic three-day run between Whakahoro and Pipiriki. Five-day marathons cover the whole stretch from Taumarunui to Pipiriki; few continue downstream from there.

Jetboat operators Bridge to Nowhere see above. Popular and frequent jetboat tours from Pipiriki, principally to the Bridge to Nowhere (4hr; $105 return). They also work with Waka Tours to and from Tieke marae, for ﬁve to seven people. Wades Landing Outdoors see above. Whakahorobased jetboating trips from scenic joyrides and museum visits to visiting the Bridge to Nowhere (5–6hr; $140). Whanganui River Adventures T0800/862 743, W www.whanganuiriveradventures.co.nz. Small jetboat operator running day-trips from Pipiriki to the Bridge to Nowhere ($105), a variety of other tours and tramper transport. Whanganui Scenic Experience (T 0800/945 335, Wwww.whanganuiscenicjet.com, see p.278). Run tours on the lower reaches of the river and Bridge to Nowhere trips ($175). Whanganui Jet T0800/538 8687 W www .whanganuijet.co.nz. From the Pungarehu Marae up-river a variety of trips are on offer, including the Bridge to Nowhere (6hr, $125).

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Whanganui Park hikes With the undoubted lure of canoe trips down the Whanganui River, few people tackle serious hikes in the area. In fact the country is so rugged that few tracks investigate the deep valleys and bush-clad slopes. One that does, is wonderful the Mangapurua Track. Conditions are best from October to April. Huts and campsites in the park are managed by DOC. The best map is the new 1:80,000 Whanganui National Park Parkmap ($18.99). WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

The Mangapurua Track

| Whanganui National Park

The park’s most manageable and appealing multi-day tramp follows the Mangapurua Track (40km one way; 3 days; 660m ascent), mostly on disused roadways through the Mangapurua and Kaiwhakauka valleys, passing through semi-open country that was once farmed. With the exception of the road-end DOC hut at Whakahoro there are no huts on the track but numerous campsites; most people pitch a tent within walking distance of the four toilets along the track. The tramp is best tackled from Whakahoro, from where you can jetboat downriver to Mangapurua Landing (see p.274). From there it’s a forty-minute walk to the Bridge to Nowhere, and a further ninety minutes to the camping area at Battleship Bluff. On the next section the track passes the remains of houses and rounds some sheer papa bluffs before climbing up to the highest point in the area, Mangapurua Trig (663m). Once you’re into the Kaiwhakauka Valley, it’s mostly easy riverside walking along abandoned roads back to Whakahoro. The tramp can be done in reverse, contact the jetboat and canoe operators to arrange transport.

The Whanganui River Road The outlying sections of the park to the south can be accessed along the partly sealed Whanganui River Road, from either Raetihi, a small town on the SH4 near Ohakune, or Wanganui (see p.278). The River Road hugs the river’s left bank from the riverside hamlet of Pipiriki 79km downstream to Upokongaro, just outside Wanganui. It’s a rough twisting road, prone to floods and landslips, and even in the best conditions will take a minimum of two hours.

Day-trips along the Whanganui River Road

276

Ideally you’ll want to spend a few days canoeing in the Whanganui National Park, but if time is short, consider one of the Wanganui-based minibus trips along the Whanganui River Road to Pipiriki and back. You may be able to extend the trip by staying overnight, see p.278. The traditional choice is the Rural Mail Coach Tour (Mon–Fri at 7.30am; $40; T 06/347 7534, W www.whanganuitours.co.nz), a genuine mail-delivery service stopping frequently at houses along the way as well as points of interest. Depending on numbers, you may be able to take a jetboat trip up to the Bridge to Nowhere and meet the minibus for the return journey. The trip is likely to take most of the day, so the $10 home-made lunch is a good bet. By not delivering mail, Whanganui River Road Tours (daily 9am; $60; T06/345 8488, Wwww.whanganuiriverroad.com) run a quicker trip concentrating on the sights with full commentary, including the stories and legends of the river and a marae visit. Take or order a packed lunch.

Hiruharama

| Whanganui National Park

HIRUHARAMA (Maori for Jerusalem; 66km), 13km south of Pipiriki, was originally a Maori village and Catholic mission but is now best known as the site of the James K. Baxter commune, that briefly flourished in the early 1970s. Baxter, one of New Zealand’s most (in)famous poets, attracted upwards of two hundred followers to the area. A devout Roman Catholic convert, but also firm believer in free love in his search for a “New Jerusalem”, he became father to a flock of his own, the nga moki (fatherless ones), who soon dispersed after his death in 1972. The main commune house is situated high on a hill to the northeast of the church, and Baxter is buried just below. To pay homage at his grave, ask for directions from the three remaining Sisters of Compassion, who still live beside the 1892 church (from the north head up the first driveway, with a mailbox marked “The Sisters”), which features a Maoridesigned and carved altar. Also in the church is a photo of Mother Mary Joseph Aubert (1835–1926), who established the first community of sisters. The small portrait of Baxter, looking suitably messianic, was removed at the time of writing but hopefully will by now have been retinstated. The original recently renovated wooden convent offers basic self-catering accommodation (T 06/342 8190, W www.compassion.org.nz; $20, bed linen extra) for up to twenty people, in dorms with single beds.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Opened in 1934, the road is wedged between river, farmland and heavily forested outlying patches of the Whanganui National Park, and forms the supply route for the four hundred people or so who live along it. Facilities along the way are almost non-existent: there are no shops, pubs or petrol stations, and only a handful of places to stay. If you don’t fancy the drive, consider joining one of the Wanganui-based bus tours (see box, p.276). The road is detailed in the free and widely available Whanganui River Road leaflet. The leaflet highlights points of interest and lists their distance from Wanganui, a convention adopted in the parentheses in the following accounts, which take the road from north to south. The southern reaches of the Whanganui National Park are accessed from Raetihi along the winding 27-kilometre Pipiriki–Raetihi Road, meeting the river at PIPIRIKI (79km), where you might make use of the unofficial camping area next to the toilets, with water.

From Moutoa Island to Koriniti

Moutoa Island (60km) was the scene of a vicious battle in 1864 when the lower-river Maori defeated the rebellious Hau Hau warriors, thus protecting the mana of the river and saving the lives of European settlers downstream at Wanganui. A cluster of houses 1km on marks RANANA (London; 60km) where there’s a Roman Catholic mission church that’s still in use today, and the Kauika campsite (T 06/342 8762; tent sites $10, powered sites $20), adjacent to the river, with toilets, showers, fresh water and a small kitchen. The two-storey 1854 Kawana Flour Mill (56km) is one of a number of water-powered flour mills that once operated along the river. It’s also the only one that’s been restored to its original condition (though it’s not operational), along with the adjacent miller’s cottage. The only real settlement of note in these parts is KORINITI (Corinth; 47km), home to a lovely small church and a trio of traditional Maori buildings, the best being a 1920s meeting house, all down a side road. It is a private community, and while you can enter the church, the rest you should view from the road, unless you are invited into the compound.

277

Immediately south of Koriniti, The Flying Fox (46km; T 06/342 8160, W www.theflyingfox.co.nz) is a wonderfully relaxing romantic hideaway acces-

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

sible by boat or aerial cableway: prior booking essential, preferably a minimum of two nights. An eclectic range of found objects and scavenged pieces of old buildings have been imaginatively combined to create three separate selfcontained buildings which encourage outdoor living amid the organic gardens and bush. Wood-fired bush baths, solar-heated showers, odourless composting toilets and a few spiders keeping the mosquitoes at bay add to the appeal. Choose from the James K (self-catering, sleeping five; 5 ), the Brewhouse (selfcatering, sleeping three; 4 ), the Glory Cart (modelled on a gypsy caravan; 4 ), or camping ($15). Predominantly organic slow-food meals can be provided (breakfast $10, dinner $30–40), or you can bring your own food. There’s a fascinating range of books, old vinyl and CDs to hire, and canoes for rent. From Atene to SH4

| Wanganui

Almost 10km south of Koriniti, a sign (35.5km) marks the start of the Atene Viewpoint Walk (5km return; 2hr; 100m ascent), giving great views of Puketapu, a hill that was once on a peninsula almost entirely encircled by the river. The river eventually cut through the isthmus to leave the hill surrounded by a dried-out ox-bow. The Viewpoint Walk comprises the first few kilometres of the Atene Skyline Track (18km loop; 6–8hr), making a wide loop following a gently ascending ridge line that ends with a two-kilometre walk along the road back to the start. There’s camping midway around. Between the two track ends, a few occupied houses mark what’s left of the settlement of ATENE (Athens; 35km). A good base for the tracks is the accommodation at Omaka (32km; T 06/342 5595, W www.omakaholiday.co.nz 4 ), a riverside farm with a modern self-catering lodge containing an en-suite double and two twins (B&B 5 ).They offer canoe rental and morning transport to Koriniti, so you can canoe back along the prettiest stretch of the lower reaches. Further downriver are the Oyster Shell Cliffs (28km), roadside bluffs with oyster-shell deposits embedded in them. This is the base for Whanganui Scenic Experience (23km, see p.275), who run jetboat tours. Soon the winding climb begins to the summit lookout of Aramoana (17km), giving a last look at the river below. On a clear day you can enjoy views of the northeast horizon, dominated by Mount Ruapehu. From the junction of the River Road and SH4, it’s 14km to Wanganui.

Wanganui

278

There’s an old-fashioned charm to the centre of Wanganui, the slow pace mirroring the speed of the river that bisects it, and museums and well-tended streetscape exuding civic pride. Founded on the banks of the Whanganui River, New Zealand’s longest navigable watercourse, Wanganui is one of New Zealand’s oldest cities and was the hub of early European commerce because of its access to the interior, and coastal links with the ports of Wellington and New Plymouth. The river traffic has long gone and the port is a shadow of what it was, but the city has given itself a facelift with an eye to its colonial past: the late Victorian and early Edwardian facades have been refurbished, and mock gas lamps installed along re-cobbled streets. All in all, Wanganui is a pleasant little place from which to take a ride on a restored

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river steamer, visit the excellent museum, idle away an hour in the renowned art gallery, or enjoy the road to the tiny settlements along the Whanganui River (see p.276). When Europeans arrived in the 1830s, land rights quickly became a bone of contention with the local Maori population. Transactions that Maori perceived as a ritual exchange of gifts were taken by the New Zealand Company to be a successful negotiation for the purchase of Wanganui and a large amount of surrounding land. Settlement went ahead regardless of the misunderstanding, and it was not until the Gilfillan Massacre of 1847 that trouble erupted – when a Maori was accidentally injured, his tribesmen

279

massacred four members of the Gilfillan family. Further violent incidents culminated in a full-scale but inconclusive battle at St John’s Hill. The next year the problems were apparently resolved by a payment of £1000 to the Maori. More recently, in the 1990s, the central Moutoa Gardens became the focus of renewed tensions.

Arrival, information and city transport WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Wanganui

Flights from Auckland and Nelson arrive at the airport, 5km southwest of the city; a taxi into town costs around $20. InterCity buses drop off at the Wanganui Travel Centre, 156 Ridgway St (T 06/345 4433). The i-SITE visitor centre, 101 Guyton St (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–3pm; T 06/349 0508, W www.wanganuinz.com), has Internet access and stocks timetables for the local Tranzit buses (T 06/345 4433), who run a limited Monday to Saturday bus service round the city and to the beaches at the rivermouth. If the buses don’t suit then either walk (the city centre is easily manageable on foot) or try Rivercity Cabs (T 06/345 3333). The DOC office, corner of Victoria Avenue and Ingestre Street (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; T 06/349 2100), sells leaflets on the Whanganui National Park, plus hut and camping passes. Banks are all on Victoria Avenue or within one block of it. The post office has two branches, one on Victoria Avenue and the other at Trafalgar Square. The AA office is at 78 Victoria Ave (T 06/348 9160).

Accommodation You should have little trouble finding somewhere suitable to stay in Wanganui – there’s a reasonable range of accommodation that seldom gets completely booked, and rates are modest. Hotels, motels and B&Bs Acacia Park Motel 140 Anzac Parade/SH4 T 0800/800 225, Wwww.acacia-park-motel.co.nz. Simple rooms set in big grounds overlooking the river. 3 –4 Arlesford House 202 SH3, 7km north of the centre T06/347 7751, Wwww.arlesfordhouse.co.nz. Set in tranquil gardens, this elegant, Georgian-style 1930s country home has rimu ﬂoors, wood panelling and generously sized rooms (two en suite, two sharing a bathroom). There’s also a secluded three-bedroom cottage. Room 5 cottage 6 Braemar House 2 Plymouth St T06/348 2301, W www.braemarhouse.co.nz. A combined guesthouse and associate YHA sited in a lovely 1895 homestead surrounded by lawns. The airy and quiet, shared-bath rooms front onto a veranda that catches the sun nicely. B&B 3 Rutland Arms Inn Corner of Victoria Ave & Ridgway St T06/347 7677, Wwww.rutland-arms.co.nz. Upscale if somewhat soulless rooms in a, historic building, with a good bar and restaurant on site. 5

280

Hostels and campsites Anndion Accommodation 143 Anzac Parade T 0800/343 056, W www.anndionlodge.co.nz.

Backpacker-style accommodation about 2km from the city centre, with a range of three- and fourshares, twins and doubles, all with linen and towels. Unusually luxurious, more like a small hotel, though there is a communal kitchen complete with bread-maker and dishwasher, plus a lovely BBQ area, swimming pool and spa. There’s also free laundry, free wireless broadband, courtesy city transport and even a liquor licence. Shares $30, 3 Braemar House (see above). Combined guesthouse and associate YHA with separate male and female dorms, private rooms, a kitchen and cosy lounge. Camping $12, dorms $25, hostel rooms 2 Tamara Lodge 24 Somme Parade T 06/347 6300, W www.tamaralodge.com. A large and wellkept historic building with pretty gardens and a friendly atmosphere. Offers free bikes, neat comfortable four-bed dorms, doubles and twins (some en suite), plus a balcony with a river view. Dorms $21, 2 Wanganui River Top 10 Holiday Park 460 Somme Parade T0800/272 664, Wwww .wrivertop10.co.nz. Well-tended site 6km northeast of the city centre, beside the river in the shade of giant trees. Camping $16, cabins 2 , motel units 4

The City

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| Wanganui

The cultural heart of Wanganui beats around Pukenamu, a grassy hill that marks the site of Wanganui’s last tribal war in 1832. Now known as Queens Park, it contains three of the city’s most significant buildings. Architecturally, the most impressive is the gleaming hilltop Sarjeant Gallery (daily 10.30am– 4.30pm; donation; W www.sarjeant.org.nz), best reached along Drews Avenue if you’re driving. An engaging 1919 building of Oamaru stone, boasting a magnificent dome that filters natural light, and a highly regarded permanent collection concentrating on contemporary New Zealand art and photography, augmented by various touring exhibitions. Check to see if any of the Partington Collection are on display, black-and-white portraits of local Maori dating back one hundred years. Immediately to the north at the corner of Cameron and Bell streets, providing accommodation for artists in residence at the gallery, sits one of Wanganui’s oldest buildings, the weatherboarded Tylee Cottage, built in 1853. Southwest of the gallery, the Veteran Steps lead towards the centre of the city past the Whanganui Museum (daily 10am–4.30pm; $5). Founded in 1892, it contains an outstanding collection of Maori artefacts and three impressive canoes, all displayed in the central court, shaped like a traditional meeting house. In smaller galleries hang portraits of Maori in full ceremonial dress and moko (traditional tattoos) by Gottfried Lindauer. His portraits are sometimes criticized for the sitters’ apparent passivity, but look long enough and the strongest impression is of great mana. Look out too for the photos of Whanganui river life, and models of ancient Maori methods of trapping eels and lampreys. Towards the river, on Somme Parade, lie the historic Moutoa Gardens, a small but historic patch of grass.Traditionally Maori had lived at Moutoa during the fishing season until it was co-opted by Pakeha settlers, who renamed the area Market Square. It was here that Maori signed the document agreeing to the “sale” of Wanganui, an issue revisited on Waitangi Day 1995, when simmering old grievances and one or two more recent ones reached boiling point. Maori occupied Moutoa Gardens, claiming it as Maori land, for 83 days. This ended peacefully in the High Court, but created much bitterness on both sides. By 2001 a more conciliatory atmosphere prevailed, and the government, city council and local iwi agreed to share management of the gardens. Following Ridgway Street until it meets Victoria Avenue, you reach the pretty Watt Fountain, which is surrounded by a number of ornate classical buildings, including the old post office and the striking Rutland Building. The Embassy 3 Complex provides a welcome counterpoint in the form of a stylish Art Deco (built in the early 1950s) exterior, foyer and mezzanine lounge, not to mention luxurious ladies’ powder rooms. Continuing west you come to Cook’s Gardens, known in New Zealand as the place where, in 1962, local hero Peter Snell set a new world mile record of 3min 54.4sec, on grass. There’s still a running track here, along with a velodrome and the wonderful 1901 Ward Observatory, where every Friday evening you can look through the 24-centimetre refractor (from around 8.30pm in summer, 8pm in winter; otherwise by arrangement through the visitor centre; $2). The river

Wanganui’s history is inextricably tied with the Whanganui River, and though commercial river traffic has virtually stopped, you can still ride the Waimarie paddle steamer, hopping aboard at Taupo Quay (Nov–April daily 2pm; May– July, Sept & Oct weekends, public & school holidays 1pm; $33; T 0800/783

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| Wanganui

2637, W www.riverboat.co.nz; booking advisable). New Zealand’s last surviving paddle-steamer, it makes a two-hour run up a tidal stretch of the river. The huffing of the coal-fired steam engine and the slosh of the paddles make for a soothing background to an afternoon’s sunning on deck, or you can retire to the wood-panelled saloon for cakes and tea. The Waimarie was built by Yarrow and Company of London in 1899, to a shallow-draught design with a tough hull, making it suitable for river work. It was transported to New Zealand in kit form, then put to work on the Whanganui River, where it saw service during the pre-Great War boom in tourism, when thousands from all over the world came to travel up the Whanganui River and stay at the hotel at Pipiriki. In 1949 the Waimarie made her last voyage and three years later sank at her moorings. It wasn’t until 1993 that the boat was salvaged and, thanks to skills passed on from half a century ago, the ship returned to the river in 1999. The restoration took place at the admirable Whanganui Riverboat Centre & Museum (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–4pm; donation), flanked by old warehouses and stores at Taupo Quay. Housed in an 1881 two-storey timberframed building, the museum concentrates on the river and its history in relation to the town. Their most recent project, the Wairua, sistership to the Waimarie is now on the river, after twenty years restoration, and operating cruises for small groups. The Wairua was a service vessel for the upper reaches of the river, from Pipiriki to the Bridge to Nowhere, crossing 108 rapids in the course of its duties.

282 The

Waimare paddle steamer, on the Whanganui River

The left bank

There are few culinary stars in Wanganui’s firmament but there’s enough choice to keep you sated for a night or so.For entertainment there’s the Embassy 3 cinema, 34 Victoria Ave (T 06/345 7958). If you happen to be here in late March in an even-numbered year, check out the one-week Wanganui Arts Festival which has events all over town; late September in odd-numbered years brings the Blooming Artz Festival, a celebration of gardens and art. For listings of gigs or events, check out the daily editions of the Wanganui Chronicle. Bollywood Stars 88 Guyton St T06/345 9996. Good curry house with the usual range of dishes, plus a daily lunch buffet and a more extensive evening menu. Cracked Pepper 21 Victoria Ave. Licensed, daytime café serving excellent value food, including lambs fry and bacon, calamari risotto, meatballs and spaghetti and good chicken caesar salad, all under $20, daily. George’s 40 Victoria Ave. A local institution, this old-fashioned ﬁsh-and-chip shop also sells goodvalue fresh ﬁsh, the best in town. Closed Sun. Jolt Coffee House 19 Victoria Ave. Upbeat daytime coffee house with an American diner feel, thanks to gleaming chrome and red plastic sofas (newspapers supplied). The great coffee is accompanied by rolls, cakes and sandwiches. The Red Eye 96 Guyton St. Bohemian daytime café, with eye-brightening coffee and tasty dishes for

| Wanganui

Eating, drinking and entertainment

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Crossing City Bridge to the east bank of the river leads straight towards the Durie Hill Elevator (Mon–Fri 7.30am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm; $1 each way). A Maori carved gateway here marks the entrance to a 213-metre tunnel, at the end of which a historic 1919 elevator carries passengers 66m up through the hill to the summit. At the top of the hill two excellent vantage points grant extensive views of the city, beaches and inland. The viewpoint atop the elevator’s machinery room is the easy option, but the best views are 176 steps up at the top of the 33.5-metre Memorial Tower (daily 8am–dusk; free). Head back to town using the 191 steps to the river – it only takes about ten minutes, and provides more satisfying views. It’s about 2km south along Putiki Drive to St Paul’s Memorial Church, Anaua Street (donation requested), which looks like any other small, whitewashed church but contains magnificent Maori carvings adorned with paua, a painted rib ceiling (as in Maori meeting houses), two beautiful etched-glass windows and two stained-glass, and tukutuku panels. The church is often locked: contact the visitor centre for access details.

breakfast and lunch, including great muesli cookies. Also open Fri evening, when there’s often live music. Red Lion 45 Anzac Parade. Atmospheric pub with a wide selection of beers and bar meals, plus live music at weekends. Closed Mon Rutland Arms Inn Corner of Victoria Ave & Ridgway St. An old-style English-style pub with over a dozen beers on tap and a range of mainstream meals, served in the restaurant. Stellar 2 Victoria Ave. Big all-day bar/restaurant, boasting lounge areas and a sports bar, with a comprehensive menu (mains $25–30); a lively spot at weekends. Vega Corner of Victoria Ave & Taupo Quay T06/349 0078. Best restaurant in town, in an airy converted warehouse with two relaxing bars, one outdoors that backs onto the river; good-value café-style food both daytime and evening plus a DJ in the rear bar at weekends.

South through Bulls South of Wanganui, SH1 and SH3 meet at Bulls, 44km north of Palmerston North, worth a brief pause for its signage – the police station comes billed as Const-a-Bull, the town hall as Soci-a-Bull and so on.

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PALMERSTON NORTH is the thriving capital of the province of Manawatu, and with around 75,000 people it’s one of New Zealand’s largest landlocked cities. After the arrival of the rail line in 1886, Palmerston North flourished, thanks to its pivotal position at the junction of road and rail routes.

Today its identity is reflected in some fine civic buildings, notably an excellent museum and gallery and a stunning library, though there’s no single mustsee attraction. The term-time presence of students from Massey University makes the city a livelier place, with plenty of buzzy restaurants and bars but it’s a place now made infamous because of a comment by John Cleese, “If you want to kill yourself but lack the courage, I think a visit to Palmerston North will do the trick.” The town’s response was to name the local rubbish dump after him.

Accommodation Palmerston North has a decent range of accommodation, most geared toward the university, business or visiting parents. Acacia Court Motel 374 Tremaine Ave T 0800/ 685 586, W www.acaciacourtmotel.co.nz. Friendly, attractive spot with s/c units. 3 Civello Accommodation 186 Fitzherbert Ave T 06/355 3653, E [emailprotected]. Doubles with shared-bathrooms and a communal kitchen in a modern block 10min walk from The Square, offering excellent value for money. 2 – 3 Palmerston North Holiday Park 133 Dittmer Drive T06/358 0349, Wwww.holidayparks.co.nz. Spacious campsite close to the Manawatu River,

with camping, cabins and tourist ﬂats, and excellent facilities. Camping $18, cabins 1 , ﬂats 3 Peppertree 121 Grey St T 06/355 4054, E [emailprotected]. Comfortable, well-appointed and welcoming associate YHA within easy walking distance of the central square. Dorms $23, 2 Plum Trees Lodge 97 Russell St T06/358 7813, Wwww.plumtreeslodge.co.nz. Lovely self-catering loft in a quiet suburban street, tastefully decorated, with a leafy deck where you can pick your own plums if they’re ripe. An extensive breakfast hamper is supplied. 6

| Palmerston North and around

Palmerston North centres on The Square, a simple grassy expanse marred by a central car park and by the ugly intrusion of the Civic Centre along part of the western side. The train station is on Matthews Avenue, about 1500m northwest of the city centre. Long-distance buses stop at the Palmerston North Travel Centre, at the corner of Pitt and Main streets. Frequent flights from Auckland,Wellington and Christchurch land at the airport, 3km northeast of the city, from where taxis (there are no buses) run into town: try Palmerston North Taxis (T 0800/355 5333; around $20). Local bus services run from Main Street, near the visitor centre, in a series of loops ($2 single), with reduced services outside term time. Timetables can be obtained from the i-SITE visitor centre,The Square (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; T 06/350 1922, W www.manawatunz.co.nz) that stocks a weekly events sheet.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Arrival and information

The city and around In the heart of the town’s square is Te Marae o Hine, or the Courtyard of the Daughter of Peace, an open area graced by a couple of five-metre-high Maori figures carved by renowned artist John Bevan Ford, who died in 2005. The Maori name is the one suggested for the settlement’s central square by the chief of the Ngati Raukawa in 1878, in the hope that love and peace would become enduring features in the relationship between the Manawatu Maori and incoming Pakeha. Around The Square, the mishmash of architectural styles – classical Victorian and Edwardian, Art Deco and so on – enhances the impact of the City Library (Mon, Tues & Thurs 10am–6pm, Wed & Fri 10am–8pm, Sat 10am–4pm & Sun

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1–4pm), a postmodern conversion by Ian Athfield (see box, p.465). Sensitively poking its nose from behind the classical facade of the 1927 C.M. Ross building on the southeast side, the library presents a challenging environment of colour and contrast, light and texture in which all the reading materials are arranged according to “subject living rooms” furnished with armchairs and sofas. Immediately west of the square lies Te Manawa (daily 10am–5pm; W www .temanawa.co.nz), the city’s main cultural focus. It’s divided into three parts centred on the Life Galleries (free), a museum devoted to the history and culture of the Manawatu region. Much of the space is given over to highquality touring exhibitions, but one room is devoted to a large impressive Maori exhibit. In the same building, Mind Galleries ($8) offers top-notch hands-on science displays and experiments predominantly for kids. Adjacent stands the Art Gallery (free), which displays Pakeha and Maori art from its permanent collection, alongside touring exhibitions. A short stroll northwest of the square, the New Zealand Rugby Museum, 87 Cuba St (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 1.30–4pm, Sun 1.30–4pm; $5), is chiefly a place for die-hard rugger fans to marvel at ephemera.

| Palmerston North and around

Ashhurst and the Manawatu Gorge

The town of ASHHURST, 13km northeast of Palmerston North, stands at the entrance to the Manawatu Gorge (Te Apiti in Maori), a narrow tenkilometre-long defile through which a rail line, SH3 and the Manawatu River squeeze. The mouth of the gorge is framed by the hills of the Ruahine and Tararua ranges, where a couple of large windfarms enhance the landscape.The most impressive is Te Apiti Windfarm, with 55 70-metre-tall turbines, each fitted with 35-metre blades. They’re a striking sight, typically seen from the Wind Farm Lookout on Cambridge Road (signposted off SH3), or by driving along Saddle Road: pick up a leaflet from the Palmerston North i-SITE. The gorge itself can be explored on foot along the Manawatu Gorge Track (3–4hr one way), though with no public transport you’ll have to either walk back or arrange transport with the i-SITE at Palmerston North.

Eating, drinking and entertainment Palmerston North supports a lively restaurant scene, ranging from cafés to fancy eateries. In the late evening many places morph into vibrant bars, some of the best lining George Street, home of Palmerston North’s café society. For entertainment, there’s an astonishing four theatres, The Regent on Broadway, Abbey Musical Theatre, and the two you should bother with, the Centrepoint Theatre, corner of Church and Pitt streets (T 06/354 5740, W www.centrepoint.co.nz), an intimate performance space, with a pleasant bar open when there’s a show on and the Globe, corner of Main and Pitt streets (T 06/358 8699) which has a range of good shows. Movies are less well represented at Downtown Cinemas, on Broadway Avenue between Princess Street and The Square (T 06/355 5655), a ubiquitous multiscreen. Restaurants, cafés and bars

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Barista George St Wwww.barista.co.nz. Minimalist espresso bar where they grind their own coffee and serve great cakes, snacky meals, and a full range of breakfasts, including bagels. Mains around the $20 mark lunchtime, $30 upwards at dinner.

Bar Mode 1 Coleman Place T06/357 4898. The only real venue sometimes packing in up to ﬁve hundred, for live bands or DJ twiddling, 4pm–very late, covers sometimes apply. Café Cuba Corner of George & Cuba sts. Funky all-day café, a bit of a local institution for breakfast, all-day brunch, lunch and dinner. A good place for

Monsoon Asian Kitchen 200 The Square. Goodvalue Chinese, Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine. It isn’t licensed, but they will order drinks for you from the bar across the street. Closed Mon & Sun. Roma 51 The Square. Authentic Italian restaurant with a cosy atmosphere, easy-going service and many dishes available as a starter or main course. Dishes include an antipasto plate as well as thincrust pizza. Scarﬁes Corner of David & Main sts. A three-bar extravaganza in the old Railway Hotel, aimed at students, with DJ entertainment Thurs–Sat.

Listings Internet access The library (see p.285). Medical treatment City Doctors, 22 Victoria Ave T06/355 3300 (daily 8am–10pm). Full facilities and a pharmacy on site. Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce is at 338 Church St.

South to the Kapiti Coast South of Palmerston North and the Manawatu, the peaks of the rugged and inhospitable Tararua Mountains corral the Horowhenua region into a strip along the coast. Renowned for its gentle landscape and popularity with retirees, the area lacks substantial attractions, but has a few mildly diverting settlements. The pick of these is Foxton, with its plethora of museums and an extraordinary long flat beach facing its seaside offshoot community of Foxton Beach. The rugged bush country of the Tararua Forest Park to the east is most easily accessible from Otaki Forks, near the small town of Otaki. It’s better to press on to the Wellington commuter belt of the Kapiti Coast, a narrow coastal plain between the mountains and sweeping beaches that’s peppered with dormitory suburbs and golf courses. The attraction is the wonderful bush-covered bird sanctuary and marine reserve of Kapiti Island, 5km offshore, though there’s also interest in the birdlife of the Nga Manu Sanctuary at Waikanae. Paekakariki marks the southern end of the Kapiti Coast, before the relaxing charms of Plimmerton, on the shores of Porirua Harbour. The minor attractions of Porirua, 20km from Wellington, won’t detain you long. The north–south rail link between Auckland and Wellington and the main bus companies serve the coastal towns but away from the rail/road corridor your options are severely limited.

| South to the Kapiti Coast

AA (Automobile Association) ofﬁce 185 Broadway Ave T 06/357 7039. Banks and exchange Most banks are within a couple of blocks of The Square; there’s also Thomas Cook, corner of Broadway Ave & Princess St T 06/359 1655.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

late food Thurs–Sat, when the kitchen stays open until 11.30pm. Licensed & BYO. Chada Thai 95 Broadway Ave T 06/357 2555. Lively, brightly lit restaurant and takeaway serving tasty examples of Thai favourites, at bargain prices (mains $10). High Flyers Corner of Main St & The Square. Central bar/club attracting a young crowd at night, especially to DJ dance nights Thurs–Sat, there’s also bar food on offer. Izakaya Yatai 316 Featherston St T06/356 1316. Excellent, Japanese-pub-style place serving tasty dishes at reasonable prices (mostly $15–20). Closed Mon & Sun, BYO.

Foxton It’s not saying much but the most interesting town in these parts is FOXTON, 38km southwest of Palmerston North, where the old-style shop facades of the broad main street seem barely touched by the last fifty years or so. None of

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| South to the Kapiti Coast 288

the town’s several small museums is far from the visitor centre, housed in a crystal shop, so they know everything. Buses stop near the old rail and tram station that contains a horse-drawn tram that is hauled out every summer for tourist rides. Archeological evidence suggests that there was a semi-nomadic moahunter culture in this area between 1400 and 1650, pre-dating larger tribal settlements. Europeans arrived in the early 1800s and settled at the mouth of the Manawatu River, but struck problems with land purchases and soon retreated to found Foxton. It quickly became the flax-milling capital of New Zealand, adapting techniques perfected by local Maori, who had long relied on handmade flax items for their everyday needs. Flax was exported from the small river port for use in woolpacks, as binder twine, fibrous plaster lashings and carpet. In an effort to streamline the stripping and weaving processes, mills were constructed by swamps and on riverbanks in Manawatu and Horowhenua. In honour of those times a modern, full-scale replica of a seventeenth-century Dutch windmill known as de Molen (daily 10am–4pm; $5) now dominates the townscape, offering a fifteen-minute tour on which you’re taken upstairs to watch the production of stoneground wholemeal flour. The broader history of the flax industry is recounted in the adjacent Flax Stripper Museum (daily 1–3pm; $3), behind which a hundred-metre-long strip of riverbanks contains a flaxwalk, an unkempt display of sixty-five types of flax. Pick up the free explanatory leaflet available from the museum. The long, sandy Foxton Beach is 5km away on the coast, where there’s good surfing, safe swimming areas and abundant birdlife around the Manawatu River estuary. The small community is full of baches for vacationing New Zealanders, as well as a campsite and a few motels. The beach stretches 20km north of here, making it a perfect spot for sand-yachting, a sport mostly conducted at Himatangi Beach, 10km north.

Otaki and around The main southbound road routes converge 19km south of Foxton at Levin, the principal community in the Horowhenua region. There’s little reason to stop except for a stroll through the Papaitonga Scenic Reserve, off SH1 some 4km south of town, where a boardwalk leads to the Papaitonga Lookout (20min return) and great views of Lake Papaitonga. The surrounding wetlands provide a refuge for many rare birds, including the spotless crake, Australasian bittern, and New Zealand dabchick. OTAKI, 20km south of Levin, sits beside a broad, braided section of the Otaki River, in a market-garden area. For most of the year, this is a quiet place with a strong Maori heritage but, like other towns along this coast, swells to bursting point for the month or so after Christmas when Kiwi holidaymakers descend en masse. Otaki comes in three parts: the train station and visitor centre on SH1; Otaki township 2km towards the sea along Mill Road; and the beach, a further 3km along Mill Road, safe to swim at in summer thanks to a surf patrol. In the township, Te Rauparaha Street leads 200m to Rangiatea Church, an exact replica of the 1849 original that was widely regarded as the finest Maori church in New Zealand (Mon–Fri, 9.30am–1.30pm, T 06/364 6838, donation). The church was consecrated in 2003, eight years after the original was completely razed in an arson attack. Inside the building is simple, with tukutuku panels on the walls, the pattern representing both the stars and the departed. Notice, too, the rafters, painted in Maori designs representing hammerhead sharks (symbols

of power and privilege), and the exquisite model of the Tainui waka, which escaped the blaze. Outside, the simple, grey-slate headstone of the Maori chief Te Rauparaha can be found in a row of three by a decapitated Norfolk pine, though his body is rumoured to have been exhumed and re-buried on Kapiti Island. Opposite the church is a memorial to the great chief, his likeness exuding an Alexandrian air. Practicalities

Otaki Gorge and Otaki Forks

| South to the Kapiti Coast

A kilometre south of the town, the scenic and partly unsealed Otaki Gorge Road branches off SH1 and threads 19km into the hills along the picturesque gorge of the Otaki River to Otaki Forks, the main western entrance to the Tararua Forest Park. Most of the forest park is accessible only to serious trampers, though there are a few shorter and less intimidating walks from a series of three parking areas, all close to each other at the end of Otaki Gorge Road. First up is the Boielle Flat picnic area, immediately followed by Gibbons Flat, where a resident ranger provides assistance and information, and keeps an intentions book. Nearby, crossing a swingbridge over the river and walking 200m brings you to Parawai Lodge, a trampers’ hut where those with a sleeping bag and cooking equipment can stay ($5). Two kilometres up the road from Gibbons Flat there’s a basic campsite ($4) at the road end. Armed with the Otaki Forks leaflet (available from area visitor centres), you can explore the Fenceline Loop (3km; 2hr), offering excellent views of the river flowing down the valley to the coast.

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

Buses stop outside the visitor centre, corner of SH1 and Mill Road (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; T 06/364 7620), which has free town maps and sells hut passes for tracks in the Tararua Forest. Two minutes’ walk away is the unstaffed train station. Daytime eating in Otaki is best done at Brown Sugar, on SH1 at the southern end of town (daily 9am–4pm), where veg frittata tops the menu, along with delicious cakes and good coffee.

Waikanae WAIKANAE, 14km south of Otaki, is divided between the highwayside settlement and a beach community, 4km away along Te Moana Road, where the broad, dune-backed beach has safe swimming. Hikers heading for the Tararuas might want to call at the Kapiti Coast’s main DOC office, 10 Parata St (Mon–Fri 8am–12.30pm & 1–4.30pm, but sometimes unmanned; T 04/296 1112), one street west of the main highway (turn at the BP station). If you want to be outdoors, stop at the Nga Manu Nature Reserve, a large man-made bird sanctuary (daily 10am–5pm, later in Jan; $10; W www.ngamanu.co.nz), with easy walking tracks and some picnic spots. A circular track (1500m) cuts through a variety of habitats, from ponds and scrubland to swamp and coastal forest, which attract all manner of birds. There is also a nocturnal house containing kiwi, morepork and tuatara, plus eels, fed at 2pm daily and some walk-in aviaries where kea and kaka strut their funky stuff. To get here, follow Te Moana Road off SH1 for just over a kilometre and turn right at Ngarara Road; the sanctuary is a further 3km. With over 250 vehicles in a specially built showroom, the Southward Car Museum, Otaihanga Road, 3km south of Waikanae (daily 9am–4.30pm; $12;

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W www.southward.org.nz), contains one of the largest collections of cars, fire

engines and motorbikes in Australasia, which is great if you like that sort of thing.

Paraparaumu and around

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| South to the Kapiti Coast

PARAPARAUMU, 7km south of Waikanae and 45km from Wellington, is the Kapiti Coast’s largest settlement and the only jumping-off point to Kapiti Island. It’s also a burgeoning dormitory community, with commuters lured here by the proximity of the long and sandy Paraparaumu Beach, 3km to the west along Kapiti Road, which is safe for swimming and looks out onto Kapiti Island. There’s precious little land-based interest here, though tour buses all flock to the Lindale Centre, 2km north on SH1 (daily 9am–5pm; free), where you can sample either ice cream or cheese at Kapiti Cheeses, both among New Zealand’s finest. Its success has attracted a number of other food and craft shops, and the well-priced Farm Kitchen café (daily 7am–5pm), offering hearty snacks, light lunches and great cakes and coffee. Those with a sweet tooth might prefer the Nyco Chocolate Factory, at the corner of SH1 and Raumati Road, 1km south of Paraparaumu (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–4.30pm), which produces ninety thousand chocolates daily and sells them through a shop stuffed with goodies. Practicalities

The i-SITE visitor centre, SH1, in the Coastlands shopping centre car park (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; T 04/298 8195, E paraparaumu @naturecoast.co.nz), has local and DOC information. InterCity buses drop off at the train station opposite, as do local services from Wellington. There are few genuinely tempting places to stay, though the revamped YHA Barnacles Seaside Inn, 3 Marine Parade, Paraparaumu Beach (T 0800/555 856, E stay @seasideyha.co.nz; dorms $25, 2), in an attractive 1923 hotel, is comfortable and overlooks the beach. Just north of town, off SH1, is the Lindale Motor Park (T 04/298 8046, E [emailprotected]; camping $18, kitchen cabins 2, self-contained unit 3). Apart from the Farm Kitchen at Kapiti Cheeses, and despite the plethora of new beachside restaurants, eating is still best done at the evening-only Muang Thai, 22 Maclean St (T 04/902 9699; closed Sun), or the Maclean Street Fish and Chip Shop, 4 Maclean St, 11.30am–8pm daily.

Kapiti Island

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One of the beast and most easily accessible island nature reserves in New Zealand, the ten-kilometre by two-kilometre Kapiti Island is a magical spot, its bush, once cleared for farmland, now home to birdlife that has become rare or extinct on the mainland. In 1822, infamous Maori chief Te Rauparaha captured the island from its first known Maori inhabitants and, with his people the Ngati Toa, used it as a base until his death in 1849: it’s thought that he may be buried somewhere on the island, but the site of his grave is unknown. The island is considered extremely spiritual by Maori, and was designated a reserve in 1897. Late January and February are the best months to visit, when the birdlife is at its most active, but at any time of the year you’re likely to see kaka (bush parrots that may alight on your head or shoulder), weka, kakariki (parakeets), whiteheads (bush canaries), tui, bellbirds, fantails, wood pigeons, robins and a

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| South to the Kapiti Coast

handful of the 250 takahe that exist in the world. The island can be explored on two fairly steep walking tracks, the Trig Track and the Wilkinson Track, which effectively form a loop by meeting near the island’s highest point, Tuteremoana (521m). There are spectacular views from the summit, though the widest variety of birdlife is found along the lower parts of the tracks – take your time, keep quiet and stop frequently (allow about 3hr for the round-trip). The North End of the island (about a tenth of its total area) is also part of the Kapiti Nature Reserve, though it is managed and accessed separately. Here the attractions are the Okupe Lagoon with its colony of royal spoonbills, though there are also plenty of rare forest birds about, a DOC walkway and kiwi spotting. A wedge of sea between Kapiti Island and Paraparaumu has been designated a marine reserve, and its exceptionally clear waters make for great snorkelling around the rocks. You’ll need your own gear to go scuba diving, which is particularly good to the west and north of the island, where there are some interesting formations, such as a rock archway known as the Hole-in-the-Wall. Three types of habitat – a boulder bottom, sheltered reef and sand bottom – are home to a rich variety of marine life, including orange and yellow sponges (some very rare), and luxuriant seaweed beds feeding kina and paua. Visiting ocean fish like moki and kingfish are common, and occasionally you’ll see rare and subtropical fish as well as stingray and cruising orca.

291 North

Island robin, Kapiti Island

Practicalities

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

| South to the Kapiti Coast

DOC manages the island and allows just fifty visitors a day to the main nature reserve, and a further 18 to the North End. Obligatory landing permits ($9 per person, valid for six months in case weather prevents a crossing) must be booked through DOC in Wellington (T 04/472 7356), though they’ll fax them to the Paraparaumu visitor centre for pick-up. Book as far in advance as you can: a few days is generally OK, but on summer weekends the main reserve is often filled three months ahead. If you’re visiting both ends of the island, get two permits. The fifteen-minute crossing from Paraparaumu Beach to Kapiti Island ($55 return) can be done with either of two launch operators: Kapiti Marine Charter (T 0800/433 779, W www.kapitimarinecharter.co.nz), or Kapiti Tours (T 0800/527 484, W www.kapititours.co.nz). Boats leave at 9am and return around 3.30pm, with the option of a transfer to the North End (extra $5). DOC are sensitive about the reintroduction of pests so insist your bags are checked for any stray mammals before leaving for the island. At the main reserve, an excellent half-hour introduction by one of the island rangers, along with the free Kapiti Island Nature Reserve brochure, sets you up for a few hours’ exploration, though there is an optional ninety-minute guided walk ($15). Facilities extend to toilets and a shelter at the landing point: take lunch and a drink, and bring back all the rubbish. Adjacent to the northern reserve is a small plot of private land at Waiorua Bay, where one of the half-dozen houses offers the only accommodation on the island, at Kapiti Nature Lodge (T 06/362 6606, W www.kapitiislandalive .co.nz). This sleeps a maximum of ten in simple bunkrooms, doubles or twins. Being Maori-run, it has a communal feel which runs through to the familystyle meals, which might include fresh seafood. Rates (bunks $255, rooms from $265 a head) include breakfast, lunch and dinner and a chance to look for kiwi in the evening. There’s also always the possibility of orca cruising by as you sit on the beach, after you’ve walked the track. If you can’t stay overnight the day tour ($155) includes the ferry, DOC permit, lunch and hour-long guided walk.

Paekakariki There’d be no reason to stop in Paekakariki, a tiny village 10km south of Paraparaumu, were it not for a safe swimming beach, and a place to park campervans within reach of transport into Wellington. The well-appointed Paekakariki Holiday Park, 180 Wellington Rd, almost 2km north (T 04/292 8292, E [emailprotected]; camping $14, cabins 1 , units 2 ), fits the bill and is right by the beach. The village also contains a café and small store.

Porirua

292

There’s more bustle at PORIRUA, which is booming on account of its proximity to Wellington. Consider stopping briefly in central Porirua at the Pataka Museum of Arts and Cultures (Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm, Sun 11am–4.30pm; free; W www.pataka.org.nz), at the corner of Norrie and Parumoana streets, that hosts local and travelling exhibitions, by leading contemporary New Zealand artists, plus regular Maori dance performances. For a change of pace, tackle the Colonial Knob Walkway (7.5km loop; 3–4hr), a track across forested hills to the west of Porirua, reaching a 468-metre summit, the highest point within the Wellington urban area. It offers amazing

Travel details Trains

Buses Cambridge to: Hamilton (7 daily; 20min); Matamata (1–2 daily; 30min); Tauranga (1–2 daily; 1hr 30min). Hamilton to: Auckland (14–16 daily; 2hr); Cambridge (7 daily; 20min); Matamata (2 daily; 50min); New Plymouth (3 daily; 3hr 40min–4hr 40min); Ngaruawahia (14–16 daily; 15min); Otorohanga (3–4 daily; 45min); Paeroa (1 daily; 1hr 30min); Raglan (2–3 daily; 45min); Rotorua (6 daily; 1hr 45min); Taupo (3 daily; 2hr 40min); Tauranga (2 daily; 1hr 45min); Te Aroha (1 daily; 1hr 10min); Te Awamutu (5 daily; 30min); Te Kuiti (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Thames (1–2 daily; 2hr 30min); Tirau (3 daily; 45min); Tokoroa (3 daily; 1hr 10min); Wanganui (2 daily; 6–8hr), Wellington (2 daily; 9hr). Matamata to: Cambridge (1–2 daily; 30min); Hamilton (2 daily; 50min); Tauranga (2 daily; 1hr).

| Travel details

Hamilton to: Auckland (1 daily; 2hr 30min); Ohakune (1 daily; 3hr 30min); Otorohanga (1 daily; 40min); Palmerston North (1 daily; 7hr); Te Awamutu (1 daily; 20min); Wellington (1 daily; 9hr 30min). Otorohanga to: National Park (1 daily; 2hr 20min); Palmerston North (1 daily; 6hr 30min). Palmerston North to: Auckland (1 daily; 9hr 30min); Hamilton (1 daily; 7hr); Wellington (1 daily; 2hr 30min). Paraparaumu to: Paekakariki (half-hourly or more; 8min); Plimmerton (half-hourly or more; 25min); Porirua (half-hourly or more; 35min); Wellington (half-hourly or more; 50min–1hr). Taumarunui to: Hamilton (1 daily; 2hr); Palmerston North (1 daily; 5hr); Wellington (1 daily; 7hr 30min).

Otorohanga to: Hamilton (3–4 daily; 45min); Te Kuiti (3 daily; 15min); Waitomo Caves (6 daily; 30min). New Plymouth to: Auckland (3 daily; 5hr 30min– 6hr 15min); Hamilton (3 daily; 3hr 40min–4hr 40min); Te Kuiti (3 daily; 2hr 30min); Wanganui (2 daily; 2hr 40min); Wellington (3 daily; 7hr). Palmerston North to: Auckland (4 daily; 9hr); Hastings (3 daily; 2hr 45min); Masterton (3 Mon– Fri; 2hr); Napier (3 daily; 3hr); Paraparaumu (6–7 daily; 1hr 30min); Rotorua (1 daily; 5hr 45min); Taupo (3 daily; 4hr); Wanganui (3–5 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min); Wellington (6–7 daily; 2hr). Taumarunui to: Te Kuiti (1 daily; 1hr); Wanganui (1 daily; 3hr). Te Awamutu to: Hamilton (5 daily; 30min); Otorohanga (5 daily; 20min). Te Kuiti to: Hamilton (3 daily; 1hr 30min); New Plymouth (3 daily; 2hr 30min); Taumarunui (1 daily; 1hr). Waitomo Caves to: Auckland (1 daily; 4hr 20min); Rotorua (2 daily; 2hr–2hr 30min). Wanganui to: Hamilton (2 daily; 6–8hr); New Plymouth (2 daily; 2hr 40min); Palmerston North (3–5 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min); Taumarunui (1 daily; 3hr).

WESTERN NORTH ISLAND

views of Mana and Kapiti islands, Mount Taranaki to the north, and south as far as the Kaikoura Ranges. This and other local walks are in the free Walking and Cycling Tracks in Porirua City leaflet. Buses stop on the main road in Porirua, two minutes from the visitor centre. Trains and local buses between Wellington and the Kapiti Coast stop at the combined bus and train station, a few minutes’ walk from the visitor centre at 8 Cobham Court (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–2pm; T 04/237 8088, E [emailprotected]), which acts as a transport agent and has Internet access.

Flights Hamilton to: Auckland (3 daily; 30min); Christchurch (1–2 daily; 1hr 45min); Nelson (1–2 daily; 1hr 15min); Palmerston North (3–4 weekdays; 45min); Wellington (5–10 daily; 1hr). New Plymouth to: Auckland (5–8 daily; 45min); Nelson (1 daily; 1hr); Wellington (4–5 daily; 55min). Palmerston North to: Auckland (5–8 daily; 1hr); Christchurch (4–6 daily; 1hr 15min); Hamilton (3–4 weekdays; 45min); Nelson (2 daily; 50min); Wellington (3 daily; 30min). Wanganui to: Auckland (3–4 daily; 1hr). 293

CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

Central North Island

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CHAPTER 4

Highlights

CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

| Highlights

Kaituna River Raft this excellent short river and shoot its seven-metre fall. See p.309

Maori cultural performance Chants, dance, songs, stories and a hangi feast. See p.311

Wai-O-Tapu Iridescent pools, glooping mud and a performing geyser make this the best of Rotorua’s thermal areas. See p.317

Lake Taupo Cruise New Zealand’s largest lake, haul

trout out of it, or approach at speed while skydiving. See p.320

Huka Falls For volume and power alone this is the country’s ﬁnest waterfall. See p.328

Rapids Jet The only commercial jetboat trip that tackles real rapids. See p.331

Tongariro Alpine Crossing Quite simply the best and most popular one-day hike in New Zealand. See p.340

296

Tongariro National Park

he Central North Island contains more than its fair share of New Zealand’s star attractions, many the result of its explosive geological past. It is dominated by three heavyweight features: Lake Taupo, the country’s largest; Tongariro National Park, with its trio of active volcanoes; and the volcanic field that feeds colourful and fiercely active thermal areas, principally around Rotorua. If you are ticking off Kiwi icons, then time is well spent around Rotorua where boiling mud pools plop next to spouting geysers fuelled by super-heated water, drawn off to fill the hot pools around town. You’ll also find the most accessible expression of Maori culture here, with highly regarded Arawa carvings and groups who’ll perform traditional dances and haka before feeding you with fall-off-the-bone meat and juicy vegetables cooked in a hangi steam oven. The dramatic volcanic scenery of Rotorua is striking for its contrast with the encroaching pines of the Kaingaroa Forest, one of the world’s largest plantation forests, with serried ranks of fast-growing conifers marching to the horizon. When the country was carved up for farming, this region was all but abandoned as cattle grazed here soon contracted “bush sickness” and died. In the 1930s, scientists discovered that the disease was caused by an easily rectified deficiency of the mineral cobalt but by this stage the free-draining pumice soils had already been planted with millions of radiata (Monterrey) pine seedlings by gangs of convicts and Great Depression relief workers. Since then, sylviculture has consolidated its position as the area’s chief earner through pulp and paper mills at Kinleith, near Tokoroa, and Kawerau. The rest of the region is loosely referred to as the Volcanic Plateau, high country overlaid with a layer of rock and ash expelled two thousand years ago, when a huge volcano blew itself apart, the resultant crater and surrounds filled by Lake Taupo. This serene lake, and the streams and rivers feeding it, have since become a fishing mecca for anglers keen to snag brown and rainbow trout, while water-sports enthusiasts flock to the thundering rapids on the Waikato River, draining the lake. South of Lake Taupo rise three majestic volcanoes in Tongariro National Park, created in 1887 – a winter playground for North Island skiers and a summer destination for trampers drawn by spectacular walking trails. If you’re driving from Auckland you’ve a choice of routes: the direct SH1 through Hamilton; or the faster journey along SH2, which branches east at Pokeno, 50km south of Auckland, then along SH27 as it cuts south across the fringes of the Hauraki Plains. The two routes converge on Tirau, where SH1 heads south to Taupo and SH5 crosses the Mamaku Plateau to Rotorua, 52km to the east.

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Climate wise, the altitude of the Volcanic Plateau lends Taupo, the Tongariro National Park and environs a crispness, even in high summer. Spring and autumn are tolerably warm and have the added advantage of freedom from the summer hordes, though the freezing winter months from May to October are best left to winter-sports enthusiasts. Rotorua is generally balmier but still cool in winter, making the thermal areas steamier and hot baths more appealing.

Rotorua and around CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

| Rotorua and around

Rotorua is the North Island’s tourist destination par excellence, one of the world’s most concentrated and accessible geothermal areas, where twenty-metre geysers spout among kaleidoscopic mineral pools, steam wafts over cauldrons of boiling mud and terraces of encrusted silicates drip like stalactites. Everywhere you look there’s evidence of vulcanism: birds on the lakeshore are relieved of the chore of nest-sitting by the warmth of the ground; in churchyards tombs are built topside as digging graves is likely to unearth a hot spring; and hotels are equipped with geothermally fed hot tubs, perfect for easing bones after a hard day’s sightseeing. Throughout the region, sulphur and heat combine to form barren landscapes where only hardy plants brave the trickling hot streams, sputtering vents and seething fumaroles. There’s no shortage of colour, however, from iridescent mineral deposits lining the pools: bright oranges juxtaposed with emerald greens and rust reds. The underworld looms large in Rotorua’s lexicon: there’s no end of “The Devil’s” this and “Hell’s” that, a state of affairs that prompted George Bernard Shaw to ruminate on his colourful past while visiting the Hell’s Gate thermal area and famously quip, “It reminds me too vividly of the fate theologians have promised me”. But constant hydrothermal activity is only part of Rotorua’s appeal.The naturally hot water lured Maori to settle around Lake Rotorua and Lake Tarawera, using the hottest pools for cooking and bathing, and building their whare (houses) on warm ground to drive away the winter chill. Despite the inevitably diluting effects of tourism there is no better place to get an introduction to Maori values, traditions, dance and song than at one of the concert and hangi evenings held all over Rotorua and in nearby marae. Maori-owned and -operated tour companies often make insightful, not to mention entertaining, ways of exploring Rotorua’s surrounding area.To the south and east, the forests are punctuated by sixteen lakes tucked into bush-girt hollows, overlooked by mountainous products of ancient volcanic activity and its more recent manifestation, the shattered five-kilometre-long chasm of Mount Tarawera. During one cataclysmic night of eruptions in 1886 this chain split in two, destroying the region’s first tourist attraction (the reputedly beautiful Pink and White Terraces), entombing the nearest settlement, Te Wairoa, now known as the Buried Village, and creating the Waimangu Volcanic Valley. This is just one of many, often magnificent, thermal areas around Rotorua. As well as Waimangu, the superior paying attractions are the Whakarewarewa Village on the outskirts of town; the Lady Knox Geyser and the coloured pools at Wai-O-Tapu, to the south of Waimangu; and the fierce bubbling mud of Hell’s Gate, in the northeast of Rotorua. Some history

The Rotorua region is home to the Arawa people, who trace their ancestry back to the Arawa canoe, believed to have journeyed from the Polynesian homelands of Hawaiki in the fourteenth century, striking land at Maketu at the mouth of the Kaituna River on the Bay of Plenty. According to Maori history, one of the first parties to explore the interior was led by the tohunga (priest), Ngatoroirangi, who made it as far as the freezing summit of Mount Tongariro, where he feared he might die from cold. His prayers to the gods of Hawaiki were answered with fire that journeyed underground, surfacing at White Island

299

CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

| Rotorua

in the Bay of Plenty, then at several more points in a line between there and the three central North Island volcanoes. Ngatoroirangi was saved, and he and his followers established themselves around Lake Rotorua, where they lived contentedly until another Arawa sailor, the wily Ihenga, duped Ngatoroirangi out of his land. The victor named the lakes as he reached them along the Kaituna River: Lake Rotoiti (“small lake”) and Lake Rotorua (“second lake”). In revenge for an earlier raid on an island in nearby Green Lake, the Northland Ngapuhi chief, Hongi Hika, led a war party here in 1823.The Arawa got wind of the attack and retreated to Mokoia Island, in the middle of Lake Rotorua; undaunted, Hongi Hika and his warriors carried their canoes overland between lakes (the track between Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotoehu still bears the name Hongi’s Track). The Ngapuhi, equipped with muskets traded with Europeans in the Bay of Islands, defeated the traditionally armed Arawa then withdrew, leaving the Arawa to regroup in time for the New Zealand Wars of the 1860s, in which the Arawa supported the government. This worked in their favour when, in 1870, Te Kooti (see box, p.426) and his people attacked from the east coast, because colonial troops helped repulse them. By this time a few Europeans – notably a Danish trader Philip Hans Tapsell and the missionary Thomas Chapman – had already lived for some years in the Maori villages of Ohinemutu and Whakarewarewa, but it wasn’t until Te Kooti had been driven off that Rotorua came into existence. Tourists began to arrive in the district to view the Pink and White Terraces, using Ohinemutu, Whakarewarewa and Te Wairoa as staging posts.The Arawa, who up to this point had been relatively isolated from European influence, quickly grasped the possibilities of tourism, helping make Rotorua what it is today.

Rotorua You smell Rotorua long before you see it. Hydrogen sulphide, drifting up from natural vents in the region’s thin crust, means that a whiff of rotten eggs lingers in the air, but after a few hours you barely notice it. Certainly, the odour stops no one from visiting this small city on the southern shores of the nearcircular Lake Rotorua, its northern and southern boundaries marked by two ancient villages of the Arawa sub-tribe, Ngati Whakaue: lakeshore Ohinemutu and inland Whakarewarewa, the only settlements before the 1880s, when Rotorua became New Zealand’s only city with its origins firmly rooted in tourism. Specifically, Rotorua was set up as a spa town on land leased from the Ngati Whakaue, under the auspices of the 1881 Thermal Springs Districts Act. By 1885, the fledgling city boasted the Government Sanatorium Complex, a spa designed to administer the rigorous treatments deemed beneficial to the “invalids” who came to take the waters. The original Bath House is now part of Rotorua Museum, set in the grounds of the oh-so-English Government Gardens, which successfully and entertainingly puts these early enterprises into context.

Arrival and information

300

Long-distance buses pull up outside the information centre, as do Guthreys (T 0800/759 999) who run here from Auckland via Hamilton. Air New Zealand flights land 8km northeast of town at the lakeside airport (T 07/345 6175). The door-to-door Super Shuttle (T 07/349 3444) charges $17 for the run into town, while taxis are $25–30 (see p.312).

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The i-SITE visitor centre, at 1167 Fenton St (daily: Nov–Easter 8am–6pm; Easter–Oct 8am–5.30pm; T 07/348 5179, W www.rotoruanz.com), has two efficient, often busy, desks, one dealing with local tourism and DOC enquiries, the other with New Zealand-wide travel. For a general roundup of what’s happening pick up the free weekly Thermal Air Visitor’s Guide. Note that Central Rotorua addresses are subject to a block-based numbering system that increases south and west from the corner of Whakaue and Hinemaru streets near the lake, starting with the 1000 block. Confusingly, outlying areas haven’t been numbered

301

in the same way, so some streets – such as Fenton Street – increase from 1000 to around 1600 then start again at 200.

City transport

CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

Cityride (T 0800/442 928, W www.baybus.co.nz/Regions/Rotorua) provides a base level of urban bus transport, centred on Pukuatua Street between Tutanekai and Fenton streets. Buses leave for Ngongotaha, passing Rainbow Springs and Whakarewarewa (Mon–Sat every 30min), and cost $2 each way, or $6 for a Day Saver pass. A number of bus tours and sightseeing/shuttle buses (see p.313) fill the gaps, all concentrating on those sights within 7km of central Rotorua. As there are no substantial hills, cycling is viable for the fit, whereas car rental (see p.312) will suit the more sedentary.

Accommodation

| Rotorua

There’s a wide range of accommodation in Rotorua, and almost everywhere, no matter how low budget, has a hot pool.The town’s hostels are all within walking distance of the city centre, while motels mostly line Fenton Street, which runs south towards Whakarewarewa; competition is fierce and at off-peak times you can get rock-bottom prices. Good B&Bs and guesthouses are thinner on the ground, and the hotels, while plentiful, generally cater to bus-tour groups and charge prohibitive prices for “walk-ins”. Campsites are scattered around the region. Between Christmas and March you should make reservations up to a month in advance. Hotels and motels Havana Motor Lodge 1078 Whakaue St T0800/333 799, Wwww.havanarotorua.co.nz. Quiet motel, close to the lakefront with spacious grounds, a heated pool and two small mineral pools. 3 Millennium Hotel Corner of Eruera & Hinemaru sts T 07/3471234, Wwww.millenniumrotorua.co. nz. Swanky, tour-bus hotel within spitting distance of the lake and Polynesian Spa, facilities include a bar, restaurant, swimming pool and Sky TV. 6 Princes Gate Hotel 1057 Arawa St T07/348 1179, W www.princesgate.co.nz. The sole survivor from the days when all of Hinemaru St was lined with hotels catering to folk taking the waters at the bathhouse. Lovely old wooden hotel with en-suite rooms fronting onto wide verandas, offering weekend dinner shows. 5 Quality Hotel Geyserland 424 Fenton St T 0800/881 882, Wwww.silverokas.co.nz. Book early to get a third- or fourth-ﬂoor room with unsurpassed views of the Whakarewarewa thermal area. Viewless rooms are cheaper, but that defeats the object of staying here. 5 Royal Lakeside Novotel Lake end Tutanekai St T 0800/444 422, Wwww.novotel.co.nz. Swankiest

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hotel in town, with elegant rooms, some with lake views. Specials on most of the year, prices vary wildly. 6 Silver Fern Motor Inn 326 Fenton St T0800/118 808, Wwww.silverfernresort .co.nz. Knock-out, modern, top-of-the-line motel with recently refurbished studios and one-bedroom units, all with spa pools, Sky TV, sunny balconies, oodles of space and helpful staff. 5

B&Bs and guesthouses Aroden 2 Hilton Rd (see map, p.313) T 345 6303, W www.babs.co.nz/aroden. Comfortable suburban B&B, just off the Tarawera Rd 4km from central Rotorua, with -nicely appointed rooms, lush gardens and tasty breakfasts. 4 Best Inn Rotorua 1068 Whakaue St T 07/347 9769.Central B&B with attractive, simple, clean rooms and Japanese-style onsen mineral baths. 4 Eaton Hall 39 Hinemaru St T0800/328 664, W www.eatonhallbnb.co.nz. Comfy B&B with three en suites and seven rooms with shared facilities, in the heart of town. 3 Lake Road Lodge and Penthouse 21 Lake Rd T0800/522 526, Wwww.jackanddis.co.nz. Two

A continuing problem around Rotorua’s centre is theft from cars, with thieves targeting those parked near hostels. Take any valuables into your room or ask to use a safe.

properties right by Ohinemutu with good lake views. A lodge with three doubles or luxury penthouse apartment, sleeping four, both nonhosted but including a continental breakfast. Rooms 4 , apartment $249.

Hostels

Campsites and motor parks

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Blue Lake Top 10 Holiday Park Tarawera Rd, Blue Lake (see map, p.313) T 0800/808 292, W www.bluelaketop10.co.nz. Well-organized site 9km from Rotorua, on the way to the Buried Village, just across the road from Blue Lake. Extensive facilities include a games room and a spa pool. Camping $15, cabins & kitchen cabins 2 , s/c units 2 Cosy Cottage Holiday Park 67 Whittaker Rd T07/348 3793, Wwww.cosycottage.co.nz. Holiday park 2km from town with an extensive range of comfortable cabins, s/c cottages, powered and tent sites, some geothermally heated – great in winter. There’s a swimming pool, a couple of pleasant mineral pools, naturally fed steam boxes for hangistyle cooking, and bikes ($20 a day). Camping $15, cabins 2 , s/c cottages 3 Rotorua Lakeside Thermal Holiday Park 54 Whittaker Rd T 07/348 1693, Erelax @lakesidethermal.co.nz. Overlooking the lake, just 2km from town, with a mineral-water pool and mineral-water baths where you can adjust the temperature to suit. The accommodation, however, is rather run down. Camping $12.50, powered $30, cabins 2 , kitchen cabins 2 Rotorua Top 10 Holiday Park 137 Pukuatua St T 07/348 1886, W www.rotoruatop10.co.nz. The closest campsite to the city, with an outdoor pool and spa, a spacious camping area ($16), basic but serviceable cabins (2 ) and motel units (3 ).

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Base 1140 Hinemoa St T 0800/843 392, W www .basebacpackers.co.nz. Central and well-appointed hostel with separate music, TV and games rooms, a female-only ﬂoor and a 20-metre indoor climbing wall adjacent. Dorms $25, four-shares $28, doubles 2 Base Hot Rock 1286 Arawa St T0800/462 396, Wwww.basenz.co.nz. Large, lively hostel that’s a perennial favourite of the backpacker tour buses, with two mineral pools, a heated outdoor swimming pool and the Lava Bar next door. Accommodation is mostly four-share dorms, each with private bathroom. There are backpacker doubles and en suites with kitchens, triple en suites and a femaleonly dorm. Dorms $25, twin & double rooms 2 –3 triple rooms 3 Central Backpackers 1076 Pukuatua St T 07/349 3285, E [emailprotected]. Small, homely hostel, with beds rather than bunks in the four- and six-bed dorm rooms, plus a spa pool. Dorms $21–24, twins & doubles 1 Funky Green Voyager Backpackers 4 Union St T 07/346 1754, F 350 1100. Relaxed hostel in a suburban house, 10min walk from downtown, with an easy-going communal atmosphere fostered by the idiosyncratic owner of seventeen years. Cooking facilities in particular are excellent and there’s a cosy, TV-less lounge and roaring log ﬁre. Dorms $20, doubles and en suites 1 Rotorua Treks Backpackers 1278 Haupapa St T 0508/487 357, Wwww.treks.co.nz. Large, wellmanaged hostel with clean rooms and spacious tasteful communal areas, plus a large kitchen and car park. The enthusiastic owner will create singlesex dorms on request and beds are separate rather than bunk. Triples as well as en-suite doubles and twins are offered. Dorms $27, rooms 2

YHA KiwiPaka 60 Tarewa Rd T07/347 0931, W www.kiwipaka-yha.co.nz. This well-organized complex is only a 5min walk from the town centre (on the far side of Kuirau Park), yet it’s far enough away to avoid late-night party noise. Accommodation is great value and split between the “lodge”, with four- or ﬁve-shares, singles, twins and doubles, and the en-suite chalets. There’s also an excellent low-cost café and a travel desk. Camping $9, four- and ﬁve-shares $25, rooms 1 , chalets 3

The town, Lake Rotorua and Whakarewarewa It’s possible to spend half a day on foot visiting the fine collection of Maori artefacts and bathhouse relics in the Rotorua Museum, located in the old bathhouse in the formal Government Gardens, and strolling around the shores of Lake Rotorua to Ohinemutu, the city’s original Maori village with its neatly carved church. Afterwards, you can ease your bones with a soak in the hot pools, set in a native bird sanctuary, by catching a boat out to Mokoia Island, the romantic setting for the tale of two lovers, Hinemoa and Tutanekai.

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Otherwise, Rotorua’s sights are so scattered you’ll require some form of transport. Sightseeing/shuttle buses (see p.313) do the rounds to Whakarewarewa, a large thermal reserve now divided into two sections: the Thermal Village, where folk still go about their daily lives amid the steam and boiling pools; and the Te Puia, with its geyser, thermal park and a carving and weaving school. Where Rotorua’s northwestern suburbs peter out, Mount Ngongotaha rises up, providing the necessary slope for a number of gravity-driven activities at the Skyline Skyrides. In its shadow, Rainbow Springs Nature Park, an aquatic farm, provides a window into the life cycle of trout, and an excellent Kiwi Encounter, while the nearby Agrodome fills the prescription for adrenalin junkies. Government Gardens and around

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In the early twentieth century, Rotorua was New Zealand’s premier tourist town, a fact it celebrated in confident civic style by laying out the Government Gardens, east of the town centre. With their juxtaposition of the staid and the exotic, the gardens are a bizarre vision of an antipodean little England.White-clad croquet players totter round sulphurous steam vents, palm trees loom over rose gardens, and, commanding the centre, there’s the neo-Tudor bathhouse, built in 1908. Heralded as the greatest spa in the South Seas, it was designed to treat patients suffering from just about any disorder – arthritis, alcoholism, nervousness – and offered ghoulish treatments involving electrical currents and colonic irrigation as well as the thermal baths. The bathhouse limped along until 1963, although the era of the grand spas had come to a close long before. For a modern sybaritic version of the experience head to the Polynesian Spa (see p.305), up the road, or the QE Spa near the lake. Other than the attractions within the gardens themselves, on their southwestern edge you’ll find the Tamaki Trading Post & The Realm Of Tane, a meeting point on the corner of Hinemaru and Pukuatua streets for tours of Tamaki Maori Village (see p.312). The Rotorua Museum and the Blue Baths

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The old bathhouse is now home to the wonderful Rotorua Museum of Art and History (daily: Oct to mid-March 9am–8pm; mid-March to Sept 9am–5pm; $12), which is currently being extended, in part to the original plans of 1908. Work on the north wing will be completed in 2008, while the south wing will be finished in 2011. For now, the recently opened viewing platform at the top of the building boasts great views over the town and lake and is well worth a visit, as is the basement which, because of the proximity of the thermal pools, gets hotter the further south you walk. Above ground, the south wing houses Taking the Waters, an exhibition built around the old baths themselves, complete with gloomy green and white tiling and exposed pipes. Several rooms have been preserved in a state of arrested decay and filled with photos, some surprisingly frank, of the glory days, while an entertaining film recreates some of the history of both the area and baths. The north wing is devoted to three main exhibitions and will, when completed, contain an art gallery. Currently the small but exquisite and internationally significant Te Arawa display showcases the long-respected talents of Arawa carvers who made this area a bastion of pre-European carving traditions. Many pieces have been returned from European collections, and the magnificent carved figures, dog-skin cloaks, pounamu (greenstone) weapons and intricate bargeboards are all powerfully presented. Prized pieces include the flute played by the legendary lover Tutanekai (see p.306), an unusually fine pumice goddess, and rare eighteenth-century carvings executed with stone tools. The second

The Polynesian Spa and QE Spa

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Immediately south of the Blue Baths lies the Polynesian Spa, Hinemoa Street (daily 6.30am–11pm; Polynesian Pools $20, Lake Spa $40; T 07/348 1328, W www.polynesianspa.co.nz), a mostly open-air complex landscaped for lake views and comprising three separate areas. The main Polynesian Pools have 35 hot mineral pools, claimed to treat all manner of ailments but principally arthritis and rheumatism. The vast majority of visitors bathe in either the slightly alkaline main pool or the small and turbid Radium and Priest pools, where the acidic waters bubbling up through the bottom of the tub vary from 36°C to 43°C. Private pools ($20 extra per person for 30min) are ranged around the Radium and Priest pools. But for real exclusivity opt for the adjacent Lake Spa Retreat, with four attractively landscaped shallow rock pools of differing temperatures along with private relaxation lounge and bar. Reserve in advance for massages, body scrubs, mud wraps and general pampering, from thirty minutes ($80, includes Lake Spa entry) onwards. Families are catered for in the new Family Spa ($32 for up to two adults and four kids), with one chlorinated 33°C pool, a couple of small mineral pools and a water slide. If the Polynesian Spa is stuffed with visitors try the QE Spa, opposite the corner of Whakaue and Fenton streets (Mon–Fri 8am–10pm, Sat & Sun 9am–10pm, T 07/348 0189, W www.qehealth.co.nz), which offers a variety of curative and therapeutic treatments, access to a public pool ($5), private pools ($10) and rheumatic consultation ($250).

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exhibition covers the dramatic events surrounding the Tarawera eruption. The extensive displays include an informative relief map of the region, eyewitness accounts and reminiscences, an audiovisual presentation and photos of the ash-covered hotels at Te Wairoa and Rotomahana, both now demolished. Finally there’s a small but moving section on the Maori battalion, with an evocative half-hour video. While the main bathhouse promoted health, the adjacent Blue Baths promised only pleasure when it opened in 1933. Designed in the Californian Spanish Mission style, this was one of the first public swimming pools in the world to allow mixed bathing. It hit hard times and closed in 1982, not reopening until 1999. You can still swim in an ancillary outdoor pool ($9), or visit the museum, which concentrates on the Baths’ early history (10am–5pm, $5), but the bulk of the building is given over to private functions, weddings and the like and so often closed at weekends.

Lake Rotorua and Mokoia Island

From the Government Gardens it’s a short walk along the waterfront to the Lakefront Jetty, the starting point for trips on Lake Rotorua and to Mokoia Island (7km north of the jetty), New Zealand’s only inland, predator-free bird sanctuary – the scene of a successful and longstanding breeding programme for saddlebacks and North Island robins (often spotted at the feeder stations) and the recently introduced kokako (see p.908).The island is better known, however, for the story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai (see box, p.306), the greatest Maori love story; the site of Tutanekai’s whare and Hinemoa’s Pool can still be seen on the island. Mokoia Island Cruises offer catamaran trips ($70, or $95 with hot-pool, soak T 0800/8627 8473, W www.mokoia-island.co.nz; 3 daily), with a guided tour of Mokoia Island, the emphasis on culture and conservation. If you fancy a more high-octane approach, roar out to the island on a Kawarau Jet Boat

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The love story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai

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The Maori love story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai has been told around the shores of Lake Rotorua for centuries. It tells of the illegitimate young chief Tutanekai of Mokoia Island and his high-born paramour, Hinemoa, whose family forbade her from marrying him. To prevent her from meeting him they beached their waka (canoe) but the strains of his lamenting ﬂute wafted across the lake nightly and the smitten Hinemoa resolved to swim to him. One night, buoyed by gourds, she set off towards Mokoia but by the time she got there Tutanekai had retired to his whare (house) to sleep. Hinemoa arrived at the island but without clothes was unable to enter the village, so she immersed herself in a hot pool. Presently Tutanekai’s slave came to collect water and Hinemoa lured him over, smashed his gourd and sent him back to his master. An enraged Tutanekai came to investigate, only to fall into Hinemoa’s embrace.

90min; $89; (T 07/3437 600; W www.nzjetboat.co.nz). If it’s just a lake cruise you’re after try the leisurely Lakeland Queen (T 0800/572 784, W www.lakelandqueen .co.nz), a replica paddle steamer that runs a series of trips including meals – breakfast (7am & 8am; $37), lunch (12.30pm; $50) and dinner (6.45pm; $71).

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Ohinemutu

Before Rotorua the principal Maori settlement in the area was at Ohinemutu, 500m north of the centre, on the lakeshore. Ohinemutu remains a Maori village centred on its hot springs and the small wooden St Faith’s Anglican Church, built in 1914 to replace its 1885 predecessor. The church’s simple half-timbered neo-Tudor exterior gives no hint of its rich interior, where there’s barely a patch of wall that hasn’t been carved or covered with tukutuku (ornamental latticework) panels.The main attraction is the window featuring the figure of Christ, swathed in a Maori cloak and feathers, positioned so that he appears to be walking on the lake. Outside is the grave of Gilbert Mair, a captain in the colonial army who twice saved Ohinemutu from attacks by rival Maori, becoming the only Pakeha to earn full Arawa chieftainship. At the opposite end of the small square in front of the church stands the Tamatekapua Meeting House, again beautifully carved, though the best work, some dating back almost two hundred years, is inside. Unfortunately, it is inaccessible; although you may view the meeting house from outside you must not encroach on its perimeter. Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve

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To New Zealanders, mention of Rotorua immediately conjures up images of the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve – or Whaka, as it is more commonly known – the closest thermal area to the city, with two distinct and separate attractions. Around two-thirds of the active thermal zone is leased to Te Puia, Hemo Road, 3km south of central Rotorua (daily: Nov–March 8am–6pm; April–Oct 8am–5pm; $50; W www.nzmaori.co.nz; free hour-long guided tours on the hour), the impressive start of a series of walkways past glooping pools of boiling mud, sulphurous springs and agglomerations of silica stalactites.The main attractions are New Zealand’s most spectacular geysers, the ten-metre Prince of Wales’ Feathers and the granddaddy of them all, the twenty-metre Pohutu (“big splash”), which performed several times a day until 2000, when it surprised everyone by spouting continuously for an unprecedented 329 days. It has since settled back to jetting water into the air around eighty percent of the time.

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The complex also contains a nocturnal house with kiwi, a replica of a traditional Maori village, and an Arts and Crafts Institute (same hours; included with entry) where skilled artisans produce flax skirts and carvings which can be bought in the classy but expensive shop. The institute also hosts Mia Ora (daily: Nov–March 6.15pm; April–Oct 5.15pm; $90; T 0800/837 842), comprising a Maori welcome, concert, steam-cooked feast and, weather permitting, floodlit tour of the geothermal valley. A Combo Package costs $130 and includes the cultural show, dinner and general admission. The rest of the thermal area falls under the auspices of Whakarewarewa, The Thermal Village, Tryon Street, 3km south of central Rotorua (daily 8.30am–5pm; guided tours 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.45am, 1.30pm & 3.30pm; $25; W www .whakarewarewa.com), a living village founded in pre-European Maori carving, Rotorua times and undergoing continual, though sympathetic, modernization.The focus here is not on geysers but on how Maori interact with this unique environment.You can stroll at leisure around the village, attend the free cultural performance (11.15am & 2pm), and partake in a hangi (served at 12.30pm; $55; hangi taster $28.50). The western fringe of the Whakarewarewa thermal area borders the Whakarewarewa State Forest Park, experimentally planted a century back to see which exotic species would grow well under New Zealand conditions. Redwoods were found to grow three times faster than in their native California, creating the impressive Redwood Grove, threaded by a number of short paths. The forest’s visitor centre, Long Mile Road (Oct–March Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–3pm; T 07/350 0110), has details of these in its free The Redwoods recreation guide, and information on the excellent mountain-biking trails. The forest is also the venue for horse rides with Maori-run Peka Horse Trekking (T 07/346 1755, E [emailprotected]), which offers one-hour ($50), two-hour ($80) and longer treks on request. West of the Lake: Around Ngongotaha

Aside from visits to the thermal areas, much of Rotorua’s daytime activity takes place around the flanks of Mount Ngongotaha, between five and ten kilometres northwest of the centre, which is increasingly being overtaken by the city’s suburbs. Closest to downtown, there’s all manner of gravity-driven activities at the Skyline Skyrides site, and gentler pursuits at either Rainbow Springs or around the mountain at Paradise Valley Springs. Sheep take centre stage (literally) a little further out at the Agrodome, an adventure park that wrestles for the adrenalin torch with the Skyline Skyrides.

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Skyline Skyrides, Rainbow Springs and Paradise Valley

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First stop, around 4km from town, is the Skyline Skyrides, where gondolas (daily 9am–late; $23; T 07/347 0027, W www.skylineskyrides.co.nz) whisk you 200m up to the station on the mountain for superb views across the lake and town, scenic dining in the restaurant (the gondola runs return trips until the restaurant closes, 10–11pm most nights) and café, and a bevy of adventure activities including the luge ($7.50 per ride, $27.50 for 5) and the adjacent Sky Swing ride ($30), which drops semi-brave daredevils from 50m. At the foot of the hill lies Rainbow Springs Nature Park (daily 8am–9pm, later in summer; $24.50, combo ticket with Kiwi Encounter $40, see below; T 07/350 0440, W www.rainbowsprings.co.nz), a series of trout pools linked by nature trails where you can view massive rainbow, brown and North American brook trout. Also here is the excellent Kiwi Encounter (daily 10am–4pm; $27.50; T 0800/724 626, W www.kiwiencounter.co.nz), an insightful celebration of the conservation work supporting the country’s icon in the battle against extinction. A heart-warming 45-minute guided tour (on the hour, from 10am) of the “working nursery” demonstrates egg incubation and ends with a kiwi viewing. For even more trout but in the company of lions, try Paradise Valley Springs, 13km west of Rotorua on Paradise Valley Road (daily 8am–late; $25; T 07/348 9667, W www.paradisev.co.nz). A network of boardwalks guides you over pools of trout, native birds and an attractive wetland area, though the biggest draw is the breeding pride of lions, with the chance to touch a lion cub and, at 2.30pm, watch the adults feed. Trout superfans should continue along Paradise Valley Road to reach the Ngongotaha Hatchery (daily 9am–4pm; free; T 07/357 5501), for an insight into the activities of Fish & Game New Zealand, the outfit that stocks most of the lakes. Paradise Valley Road continues to the Agrodome. The Agrodome and Agrodome Adventure Park

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Just about every bus touring the North Island stops 10km north of Rotorua at the Agrodome,Western Road, Ngongotaha (shows at 9.30am, 11am & 2.30pm; show $24, organic farm tour and show $46; T 07/357 1050, W www.agrodome .co.nz), where the star attraction is a slick 45-minute sheep show involving lots of audience participation: rams representing the nineteen major breeds farmed in New Zealand are enticed onto the podium; a sheep is shorn; lambs are bottle-fed and there’s a sheepdog display. Afterwards, the dogs are put through their paces outside – rounding up sheep and so on – and you can watch a 1906 industrial carding machine turn fleece into usable wool.There’s also a 45-minute farm tour complete with honey tasting, a visit to an organic orchard, deer viewing and, between April and June, kiwifruit picking. A different market is catered for at the adjacent Agrodome Adventure Park (daily 9am–5pm or later), where adrenalin junkies can get fixed. Attractions include a 43-metre bungy jump ($90), the Swoop swing ride ($45), and the Agrojet ($45) where tiny racing jetboats hurtle around a short course. The best attraction is the Freefall Extreme ($49 for 2min), which simulates freefalling, à la skydiving, using a powerful propeller and safety net above which you hover (or at least try to) five metres up. Less adrenalin glands get pumped but probably more laughter ensues at the Zorb ($49 a wet roll, $59 a dry) – another Kiwi-pioneered nutter ride. You dive into the centre of a huge clear plastic ball and roll down a two-hundred-metre hill or the slower but wilder zigzag course; you can choose from wet and dry rides, the former being the more fun. The Agrodome’s latest attraction, the Schweeb ($45 for four laps), offers a chance to race bicycles inside clear plastic tubes attached to overhead rails forming an undulating circuit, either

in teams or solo. Designed as a futuristic form of transport it’s nowhere near as geeky as it sounds, particularly if you can get two teams together. Add to this the possibility of helicopter rides with HeliPro (see p.314) and you’ve got yourself quite a day out and an empty wallet.

Activities

Rafting, kayaking and sledging

Adventure Kayaking T07/348 9451, Wwww .adventurekayaking.co.nz. Rents sea kayaks ($40 per seat per day) and undertakes guided trips including the Twilight Paddle ($80) on the Lake Tarawera Full Day Tour ($110), or individually tailored overnighters (from $210). Kaitiaki Adventures T0800/338 736, Wwww .raft-it.com. Rafting and sledging trips down the Kaituna, Rangitaiki and Wairoa rivers with a cultural dimension - explaining the signiﬁcance of the river to Maori. They also have modiﬁed rafts and sledges to better suit the conditions. Prices from $82–170, times from 3hr 30min to 8hr. Kaituna Cascades T0800/524 886, Wwww .kaitunacascades.co.nz. Rafting on all the rivers mentioned above and the Motu, as well as extreme

kayaking trips on the Kaituna and kayaking on Lake Rotoiti. Kaituna Kayaks T0800/465 292, Wwww .kaitunakayaks.com. Offer tandem kayaking on the Kaituna River, including the seven-metre Tutea’s Falls. Also specialize in kayak courses. Raftabout T 0800/7238 22688, W www .raftabout.co.nz. Rafting trips on the Kaituna, the Rangitaiki and the Wairoa, plus sledging from $99 (under the name Sledgeabout) on the Kaituna and a variety of combo deals including other adventure activities. River Rats T0800/333 900, W www.riverrats .co.nz. Long-established company offering rafting on all the above rivers and adventure packages including various multi-adventure combo deals.

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Rotorua has a considerable reputation for its nearby whitewater rivers, which you can tackle aboard rafts, kayaks (usually tandems) or, more in-your-face, by “sledging” – floating down rapids wearing safety gear and clinging to a buoyant plastic sledge (really only for good swimmers). Much of the hype is reserved for the Grade V Kaituna River, or at least the two-kilometre section after it leaves Lake Rotoiti 20km north of Rotorua, which includes the spectacular seven-metre Tutea’s Falls. The one to go for though, if you can get the timing right, is the Grade IV-plus Wairoa River, 80km by road from Rotorua, on the outskirts of Tauranga, which relies on dam-releases for raftable quantities of white water (Dec–March every Sun; Sept–Nov & April–May every second Sun). This is one of the finest short trips available in New Zealand, negotiating a hazardous but immensely satisfying stretch of water – essentially for those with experience and an appreciation of the dangers involved. If your tastes lean more towards appreciation of the natural surroundings with a bit of a bumpy ride thrown in, opt for the Grade III Rangitaiki River, which also shoots Jeff ’s Joy, a Grade IV drop that’s the highlight of the trip. With more time and money, it’s worth considering a multi-day wilderness rafting trip on the East Cape’s Motu River (see box, p.402). You could also rent kayaks or undertake kayaking courses and guided trips on several of the larger lakes in the region, with the emphasis on scenic appreciation, soaking in hot pools and a little fishing.

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As you’d expect in a place that attracts so many visitors, numerous companies have sprung up in Rotorua to offer all manner of adventure activities – rafting, kayaking, mountain biking and even fishing. Adventure tourism hasn’t quite snowballed to the same degree as in Queenstown but there’s plenty to keep you occupied. In addition to the activities detailed below you might want to try scenic skydiving with NZONE (15,000ft $399; T 0800/3767 9663, W www.nzone.biz), although needlessly jumping out of a perfectly good aeroplane is cheaper down the road at Taupo.

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Sun Spots Kayak Shop SH33, Okawa Bay 14km north of Rotorua T 07/362 4222, W www.sunspots .co.nz. Kayak rental ($35 per seat per day) and courses including the half-day introduction and longer intermediate and advanced ones.

Wet’n’Wild T 0800/462 7238, W www .wetnwildrafting.co.nz. One-day trips on the Kaituna, Rangitaiki and Wairoa, and overnight to ﬁve-day rafting expeditions further aﬁeld on the Motu, and upper or lower Mohaka.

Mountain biking

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Some fine and accessible mountain biking lies fifteen minutes’ ride from central Rotorua, with large areas of the Whakarewarewa Forest’s redwoods, firs and pines threaded by single-track trails especially constructed with banked turns and jumps under a sub-canopy of tree ferns. Altogether there’s over 40km of track, divided into a dozen circuits in five grades of difficulty and all explained and colourfully illustrated on the waterproof trail map ($2) available from the forest visitor centre on Long Mile Road. Don’t think that it’s just for experts though; any level of pedaller can get great pleasure from half a day mucking about in this atmospheric forest. There is no charge to enter the forest or use the trails, most of which are accessed from the obvious car park on Waipa Mill Road, 5km south of town off SH38. For bike rental try Planet Bike, 89 Vue Rd (T 07/346 1717, W www.planetbike .co.nz), which rents bikes and gear for guided (from 2hr, $65), or self-guided mountain biking (full day, $55) through the forest, for all experience levels; it also offers women-only rides. Fishing

The lakes adjacent to and around Rotorua have a reputation for trout fishing bettered only by the North Island rivers and streams flowing into Lake Taupo. The angling, in sixteen lakes, is both scenic and rewarding, with waters stocked with strong-fighting rainbow trout; a typical summer catch is around 1.5kg, while in winter it can creep up towards 3kg. The proximity of Lake Rotorua makes it a perennial favourite, reached by charter boats from the Lakefront Jetty (2hr minimum; $120 plus per hour, including tackle but not licences – see p.68). If you are going it alone, obtain up-to-date information on lake and river conditions from O’Keefe’s, 1113 Eruera St (T 07/346 0178), who stock the free Lake Rotorua & Tributaries leaflet published by Fish & Game New Zealand, explaining the rules of the fishery and will provide contacts for fly-fishing guides, generally around $500 for a half-day. Licences (24hr $19; year $96) are valid for the whole country except for the Taupo fishery region and can be bought with a credit card ($5 extra) from the licence helpline (T 0800/542 362).

Eating, drinking and entertainment A few quality restaurants, most congregated along a short strip at the lake end of Tutanekai Street (known as “The Streat”), and lots of great cafés enliven eating in Rotorua. Unless you’re part of a large group, there’s little need to reserve a table. There are several good bars in Rotorua, but otherwise nightlife is limited: a few late-night venues have a bash at keeping you entertained but most visitors spend one evening of their stay at one of the hangi and/or Maori concerts in either a tourist hotel or, preferably, one of the outlying Maori villages. Restaurants and cafés 310

Bistro 1284 1284 Eruera St. White linen tablecloths belie the relatively relaxed atmosphere in what is one of Rotorua’s better restaurants. Dinner only (from 6pm); closed Sun & Mon.

Café Ephesus 1107 Tutanekai St. Unassuming and cheap, with generous portions of Turkish, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare dished up. Chomp on traditional delights like dolmades or guveche ($17–22).

Skyline Cableway Restaurant Skyline, Fairy Springs Rd T07/347 0027. Well worth a visit, if only for the beautiful view of the lights of Rotorua dancing by the lakeside at dusk. A surprisingly good NZ buffet combines the best available seafood, steaks, lamb, venison and vegetable selection in a value-for-money package. Plus excellent service. Zippy Central 1153 Pukuatua St. Groovy licensed restaurant with haphazard retro 1950s and 1960s pop decor. Serves great coffee and imaginative and well-prepared food, from salads and bagels to smoothies. Mains from $15.

Bars and clubs

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Brass1122 Tutanekai St T07/349 6306. Upscale downtown cocktail bar that does weekend brunches, good steak and ﬁsh dishes and hosts DJs (Fri), live acts and bands (Sat). Closed Sun & Mon. Hennessey’s 1206–1210 Tutanekai St. Dimly lit but pleasant enough Irish bar popular with backpackers, mainly because of the cheap “mad meal and pint” deals. Live music Thurs & Sat. Lava Bar 1286 Arawa St. A house converted into a bar that’s found favour with backpackers, rafting guides and local youth. Basic meals are available and there’s an early-evening happy hour, pinball machines and a pool table if you can get to them, plus late-night music. Small cover charge on Sat. O’Malley’s 1287 Eruera St. Ersatz Irish bar with a strong line in draught Irish beers and bargain meals. Live Irish-style bands Fri plus regular happy hours. Pig & Whistle Corner of Haupapa & Tutanekai sts. Lively bar in a former police station with some locally brewed beers on tap, a garden bar, and rock and pop covers bands or DJs and dancing at weekends when tidy dress is required and a $3 cover applies. There are also large and reasonably priced bar meals.

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Capers Epicurean 1181 Eruera St. Large airy café-cum-deli serving up wonderful breakfasts, from 7.30am daily, colourful salads, over-stuffed panini, Persian ﬁsh curry and pork spare ribs. Excellent-value lunches and dinners in a bustling cosmopolitan atmosphere. Chambers 1151 Arawa St. Plenty of European fare but the Belgian grub’s best. Mussel connoisseurs will salivate over the treats on offer from the Mosselen (from $17–18, other mains from $18–27). Occasional live music and a good selection of Belgian beers. Fat Dog 1161 Arawa St. Friendly café/bar with a great atmosphere, engendered by mismatched furniture, daubed limericks on the walls and funky music. Drop in for lunch (from $10), or go for the wide-ranging selection of hearty breakfast or dinner mains ($19–31). For breakfast The Fat Dog Works ($14.90) should sort out hangovers and the coffee is some of the best in town. Takeaways available. Freos 1103 Tutanekai St T 07/346 0976. Modern Kiwi café offering dining at reasonable prices with alfresco option. Good for steaks, lamb and ﬁsh. The Landing Tarawera Rd, 18km southeast of Rotorua (see map, p.313) T07/362 8595. Europeaninﬂuenced Kiwi grub at moderate prices in a waterside café, restaurant and bar – with great views across to Lake Tarawera towards Mount Tarawera. Lime 1096 Whakaue St. Bustling all-day café serving stand-up coffee and tasty breakfasts as well as snacks and cakes. Lovely India 1123 Tutanekai St T 07/348 4088. Authentic, licensed Indian restaurant with a wide range of good-quality vegetarian dishes as well as the standard lamb kormas and tandoori chickens ($13–20). Takeaway available. Relish 1149 Tutanekai St. Licensed café serving home-made toasted muesli, wood-ﬁred pizzas and good cake. Daily 7am–4pm, dinners Wed–Fri.

Hangi and Maori concerts

If you want to sample food steamed to perfection in the Maori earth oven or hangi and watch a Maori concert, typically an hour-long performance of traditional dance, song and chants, then Rotorua provides more opportunities than anywhere else. Although not an entirely satisfactory introduction to Maori culture, these are at least reliable and good value. Almost a dozen groups vie for your custom, the offerings falling into two distinct camps: extravaganzas laid on at the major hotels, invariably disappointing; or packages operated and organized by Maori groups. All run for three to four hours, most start around 6 or 7pm, with buses picking up and dropping off at hotels and hostels; some hotels offer hangi-only or concert-only deals. The out-of-town packages are more rewarding, though all follow largely the same format, giving instruction on marae customs and protocol (see “Maoritanga” in Contexts, p.893) as you are driven out to a Maori village, followed by a formal welcome.

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Mitai T 07/343 9132, W www.mitai.co.nz. You might end up with wood smoke in your eyes, but other than that this is a polished product with a solid initial show, the chance to see a fully manned waka and enjoy a decent hangi feed before looking at the natural springs, picked out by lights, bubbling up through the riverbed ($92). Rotoiti Tours T0800/476 864, Wwww .worldofmaori.co.nz. In some ways more authentic than the others, or at least engaging because of its size, with almost the whole whanau (extended family group) contributing to the proceedings in the beautifully decorated meeting house on the Rakeiao Marae at Tapuaekura Bay on the shores of Lake Rotoiti, 20km north of Rotorua (around $80). Tamaki Maori Village T07/346 2823, Wwww .maoriculture.co.nz. You, and several busloads, are

driven out to a specially built “Maori village” south of town for a spine-chilling welcome. Everything is so professionally done that it is hard to quibble, though parts may feel a bit “Hollywood”. Its popularity has become its biggest downfall and sightlines can be restricted, however, the hangi is probably the best on offer and the overall experience unforgettable ($90). Te Puia T07/348 90 47, W www.tepuia.com. A “Mai Ora – Essence of Maori” evening performance is offered at Te Puia’s extensive complex in part of the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve, which adds an extra layer to the generally professional show they put on during the day, plus some good food and a chance to look at boiling mud in the dark ($90).

Listings

| Around Rotorua

Airlines Air New Zealand Travelcentre, corner of Hinemoa & Fenton sts T 0800/737 000. Automobile Association 1121 Eruera St T 07/348 3069. Bike rental Rotorua Cycle Centre, 1120 Hinemoa St T07/348 6588. See also “Mountain biking” p.310. Bookshops Idle Hour Book Inn, 1112 Eruera St, for secondhand books; Whitcoulls, 1238 Tutanekai St, for new. Car rental All the usual suspects including Budget, 1230 Fenton St (T 07/348 8127, Wwww.budget .co.nz), Handy Rentals, corner of Ranouf & Amohau sts (T 0800/479 849) and U-Drive, 153 Lake Rd (T 0800/837 483). Cinema The local multiplex is Readings Cinema, 1263 Eruera St, but there’s also the more intimate Basement Cinema, 1140 Hinemoa St (under Base Backpackers), an arthouse movie theatre of 33 seats and great character, plus a licensed café.

Left luggage At Travelex, in the visitor centre see p.301 ($2 for 3hr, $4 per day). Library The public library is on Haupapa St (T07/348 4177). Medical treatment For emergencies and urgent healthcare go to Lakes Primecare, corner of Arawa & Tutanekai sts T07/348 1000 (daily 8am–11pm). Pharmacy Lakes Care Pharmacy, corner of Arawa & Tutanekai sts T07/48 4385 (daily 9am–9.30pm). Police 64–98 Fenton St T07/348 0099. Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce, with poste restante facilities, is at 1195 Hinemoa St. Taxis Fast Taxis T 07/348 2444; Rotorua Taxis T07/348 1111. Travelex Tourism Building, Rotorua Visitors Centre, 1167 Fenton St (T07/348 0373), offers left luggage and foreign currency exchange.

Around Rotorua

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Many of the best attractions in the area lie outside Rotorua, among the lakes to the north and east and around the most dramatic of the volcanic zones half an hour’s drive south, toward Taupo. Shuttles and tours (see p.313) mean that just about every combination of sights can be packed into a day. Independent travellers can quickly dispatch minor sights along the eastern shore of Lake Rotorua, leaving time for the seldom-crowded Hell’s Gate thermal area and the opportunity to watch terrified rafters plunging over Tuteas Falls. Hiring a boat opens up the best of lakes Rotoiti, Rotoehu and Rotama, though they’re pleasing enough just to drive past on the way to Whakatane and the East Cape. Rewards are more plentiful to the east and south especially around Mount Tarawera which, in 1886, showered tonnes of ash on the settlement of Te Wairoa, now known as

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| Around Rotorua

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the Buried Village, where partly interred Maori dwellings graphically illustrate the volcano’s power. As the village and the Pink and White Terraces were being destroyed the Waimangu Volcanic Valley was being created, and it now ranks as one of the finest collections of geothermal features in the region alongside kaleidoscopic Wai-O-Tapu, with its daily triggered Lady Knox Geyser and brilliantly coloured pools. Getting around

Without your own transport, you need to choose between shuttles or a bewildering array of minibus tours, ranging from a couple of hours to a full day; to add confusion some shuttles also offer tours. One destination that

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isn’t accessible with your own vehicle is the shattered line of craters atop Mount Tarawera, which can only be reached on a tour with Mt Tarawera NZ (see p.314). Shuttle and minibus tours

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Geyser Link T0800/004 321, W www.geyserlink .co.nz. Trips to Wai-O-Tapu and Waimangu for $25, plus a variety of other options. Hotspotz T 027/340 1744, W www.hotspotz .co.nz. Personalized shuttle service to most places at competitive rates. Mt Tarawera NZ T07/349 3714, Wwww .mt-tarawera.co.nz. Have sole rights to the

mountain, with a Rotorua-based half-day tour ($133). If you’ve got some spare dosh you can get the best of both worlds by doing a ﬂy-drive tour, a helicopter up to the mountain and drive back ($435). Superia Tours T07/357 2284, Wwww .superiatours.co.nz. Half-day tours ($85) include one attraction of your choice, full-day tours ($175) include two and lunch, or they’ll tailor-make a tour for you.

Northeast of Lake Rotorua: Hell’s Gate and the northern lakes

| Around Rotorua

SH30 hugs the eastern shores of Lake Rotorua, bound for Whakatane, passing through a concentration of lakes and plenty of twisting hill country. Scenery aside, there isn’t a great deal to stop for along the way apart from the Te Ngae 3D Maze, 10km northeast of Rotorua (daily 9am–5pm; $7.50), a wooden affair with bridges linking separate sections that complicate things immeasurably. North of the maze, SH30 veers off to Whakatane while SH33 continues north to Te Puke and Tauranga. A couple of kilometres along the latter, you’ll cross the riverine Ohau Channel, which links lakes Rotorua and Rotoiti. Haumurana Road then spurs left around the shores of Lake Rotorua passing Hamurana Springs, 773 Haumurana Rd (gold coin donation), which boast the largest natural spring in the North Island. Sticking with SH33, you soon come upon signs to the Okere Falls Scenic Reserve, which surrounds the rafting mecca of the Kaituna River – follow signs up Trout Pool Road, 4km north of the Haumurana Road junction. From the first car park, 400m along Trout Pool Road, a broad track follows the river to a second car park (2.5km return; 40min–1hr) passing glimpses of the churning river below, and a viewing platform that’s perfect for observing rafters plummet over the seven-metre Tuteas Falls. From here, steps descend through short tunnels in the steep rock walls beside the waterfall to Tuteas Caves, thought to have been used as a safe haven by Maori women and children during attacks by rival iwi.

Scenic flights

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The scenery around Rotorua is breathtaking from the air. Scenic ﬂights take in easily what you would ﬁnd difﬁcult to access from the ground, like the volcanic spine running through Rotorua. As a result there are various trips on offer, none cheap but many worthwhile if you’re pushed for time. Some say the majesty of Mount Tarawera is best appreciated from the air; ﬁxed-wing ﬂights with Volcanic Air Safaris (T0800/800 848, Wwww.volcanicair.co.nz) cost $185 for a Tarawera overview. Helicopter ﬂights are usually more expensive but they do sometimes include a landing. Volcanic Safaris operate choppers on the same routes as their plane trips, with a couple of additional options. Similar deals are offered by HeliPro (T07/357 2512, Wwww.helipro.co.nz), with a short ﬂight over Mount Tarawera and the local lakes at $175 (minimum numbers apply). HeliPro’s other tours have vertically ascending prices.

Walks around Rotorua Rotorua isn’t especially well endowed with serious tramps though it does work well as a staging post for forays into the Whirinaki Forest and further aﬁeld to Waikaremoana. If you’re keen to stretch your legs try there-and-back day-walks. Linking up multi-day hikes is all but impossible without a compliant driver to pick you up at the other end. The best map is Holidaymaker’s 1:60,000 Rotorua Lakes ($15.95).

Day-walks

| Around Rotorua

Most traffic sticks to SH30, the route to Hell’s Gate and Wai Ora Spa (daily 9am–5pm; $25; W www.hellsgate.co.nz), 14km northeast of Rotorua. The smallest of the major thermal areas, this is also one of the most active. Its fury camouflages a lack of notable features, however, and the only real highlights are the bubbling mud of the Devil’s Cauldron and the hot Kakahi Falls, whose soothing 38ºC waters once made this a popular bathing spot (now off-limits). Also worth a look on the way out are the interactive activities, including a quick carving lesson after which you can take home a design you’ve chipped away yourself. Substantial pleasure can also be taken from a wonderful soak in the sulphurous hot waters overlooking the park and a mud bath (an additional $55); massages are another $130, and other treatments rise in price from there. Beyond Hell’s Gate lies Lake Rotoiti, which translates as “small lake”, though it is in fact the second largest in the region and is linked to Lake Rotorua by the narrow Ohau Channel. This passage, along with the neighbouring Lake Rotoehu and Lake Rotoma, traditionally formed part of the canoe route from the coast. A section of this route, apparently used on a raid by the Ngapuhi warrior chief Hongi Hika, is traced by Hongi’s Track (3km; 1hr return), a beautiful bushwalk which runs through to Lake Rotoehu passing the Wishing Tree, which is often surrounded by plant offerings.

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Blue Lake (Tikitapu; 5.5km loop; 2hr; 500m ascent). This none too arduous loop around the Blue Lake starts at the eastern end of the beach opposite the Blue Lake Holiday Park, 9km southeast of Rotorua, and heads through regenerating bush, Douglas ﬁrs and past some sandy beaches perfect for a dip. The single major climb takes you away from the lake to a viewpoint. Okere Falls Scenic Reserve (2.5km return; 40min–1hr). An easy stroll starting 18km north of Rotorua, with river views and spectacular angles on rafters shooting Tuteas Falls. Tarawera Falls Walk (1–8km return; 30min–4hr; 100m ascent). A gorgeous bushwalk to a great view of Tarawera Falls and on past swimming holes to the outlet of Lake Tarawera. The track starts 80km by road from Rotorua. Around 6km beyond Lake Rotoma a good side road leads to the timber-mill town of Kawerau – call at the visitor centre on Plunket Street (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm; T07/323 7550) for the compulsory permit for the walk ($3.50, or free from the forest’s Visitor Centre in Rotorua – see p.307), which requires that you specify your car make, licence number and number of visitors). Note that driving can be hazardous on metalled forest roads – keep your headlights on at all times and keep clear of the billowing clouds of dust thrown up by huge logging trucks. The falls are most impressive after rain when the underground section of the Tarawera River appears to burst in a solid stream from the cliff face. It’s also worth the ﬁfteen-minute walk (uphill) along the Tarawera Falls/Tarawera Outlet walkway to a point where you can see the Tarawera River dive underground and, by pressing on ﬁve minutes more, you’ll come to a safe swimming hole, with natural diving spots and a rope swing.

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Southeast of Rotorua

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| Around Rotorua

Unsurprisingly, volcanic activity provides the main theme for attractions southeast of Rotorua, most having some association with Lake Tarawera and the jagged line of volcanic peaks and craters along the southeastern shore, collectively known as Mount Tarawera, which erupted in 1886. Before this, Tarawera was New Zealand’s premier tourist destination, with thousands of visitors every year crossing lakes Tarawera and Rotomahana in whale boats and waka, frequently guided by the renowned Maori guide Sophia, to the Pink and White Terraces, two separate fans of silica that cascaded down the hillside to the edge of Lake Rotomahana. Boiling cauldrons bubbled at the top of each formation, spilling mineral-rich water down the hillside where, over several centuries, it formed a series of staggered cup-shaped pools, the outflow of one filling the one below. The White Terraces (Te Tarata or “Tattooed Rock”) were the larger, but most visitors favoured the Pink Terraces (Otukapuarangi or “Cloudy Atmosphere”), which were prettier and better suited to sitting and soaking. All this came to an abrupt end on the night of June 10, 1886, when the long-dormant Mount Tarawera erupted, creating 22 craters along a 17km rift, and covering over 15,000 square kilometres in mud and scoria. The Pink and White Terraces were shattered by the buckling earth, covered by ash and lava, then submerged deep under the waters of Lake Rotomahana that, dammed by earth upheavals, grew to twenty times its previous size. The cataclysm had been foreshadowed eleven days earlier, when two separate canoe loads of Pakeha tourists and their Maori guides saw an ancient waka glide out of the mist, with a dozen warriors paddling furiously, then vanish just as suddenly; this was interpreted by the ancient tohunga (priest) Tuhoto Ariki as a sign of imminent disaster. The fallout from the eruption buried five villages, including the staging post for the Pink and White Terrace trips, Te Wairoa, where the tohunga lived. In a classic case of blaming the messenger, the inhabitants refused to rescue the tohunga and it wasn’t until four days later that they allowed a group of Pakeha to dig him out. Miraculously he lived, for a week. The chain of eruptions that racked the fault line during that fateful night created an entirely new thermal valley, Waimangu, running southwest from the shores of the newly enlarged Lake Rotomahana. Still geothermally active, Waimangu competes to outdo the supremely colourful thermal area of Wai-O-Tapu, a few kilometres further south. Beyond the volcanic zone, the Kaingaroa Forest stretches east to the little-visited tramping territory of the Whirinaki Forest Park, and the Kinleith Forest straggles west to Tirau, Putaruru and Tokoroa (covered in Chapter Three). The Blue and Green lakes, the Buried Village and Lake Tarawera

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Passing a ridge-top viewpoint overlooking the iridescent waters of Blue Lake (Tikitapu) and Green Lake (Rotokakahi), the road reaches the shores of Lake Tarawera 15km southeast, just past the Buried Village (daily: Nov–March 8.30am–5pm; April–Oct 9am–4.30pm; $27; T 07/362 8287, W www.buriedvillage .co.nz). By the entrance to the complex a museum provides a great introduction, capturing the spirit of the village in its heyday and the aftermath of its destruction, through photos, fine aquatints of the Pink and White Terraces and ash-encrusted knick-knacks. The Maori settlement here was larger than contemporary Rotorua until the Tarawera eruption when numerous houses collapsed under the weight of the ash; others were saved by virtue of their inhabitants hefting ash off the roof to lighten the load. You can either go for a free guided tour (11am, 1.30pm or 3pm), or make your own way through the grounds from here.

At the southern limit of the volcanic rift blown out by Mount Tarawera lies Waimangu Volcanic Valley (daily: Jan 8.30am–6pm; Feb–Dec 8.30am–5pm; $32.50; T 07/366 6137, W www.waimangu.co.nz), 19km south of Rotorua on Waimangu Road, via SH5, and 5km off the highway. Among the world’s youngest thermal areas, this is also New Zealand’s largest and most lushly vegetated. The entrance fee includes a comprehensive leaflet for a self-guided walking tour; highlights include two recently cut trails that yield great views. The visitor centre, by the entrance, hints at the sights lining the streamside path, which cuts through a valley choked with scrub and native bush that has re-established itself since 1886. The regeneration process is periodically interrupted by smaller eruptions, including one in 1917 that created the magnificent 100m-diameter Frying Pan Lake, the world’s largest hot spring. Massive quantities of hot water well up from the depths of the Inferno Crater, an inverted cone where mesmerizing steam patterns partly obscure the powderblue water and are stirred and swirled by breezes across the lake. The water level rises and falls according to a rigid 38-day cycle – filling to the rim for 21 days, overflowing for two then gradually falling to 8m below the rim over the next fifteen. More run-of-the-mill steaming pools and hissing vents line the stream, which also passes the muddy depression where, from 1900 to 1904, the Waimangu Geyser regularly spouted water to an astonishing height of 400m, carrying rocks and black mud with it. The path through the valley ends at the wharf on the shores of Lake Rotomahana, where the rust-red sides of Mount Tarawera dominate the far horizon. From here, free shuttles run back up the road to the visitor centre and gentle, commentated, 45-minute cruises (6 daily; $37.50) chug around the lake past steaming cliffs, fumaroles and over the site of the Pink and White Terraces. Wai-O-Tapu

The tussle for Rotorua’s geothermal crown is principally fought between Waimangu and the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland (daily 8.30am–5pm;

| Around Rotorua

Waimangu

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What you see today are the partly excavated and heavily reconstructed remains; much of the village was excavated in the 1930s and 1940s, though work continues slowly today. The village itself is less an archeological dig than a manicured orchard: half-buried whare and the foundations for the Rotomahana Hotel sit primly on mown lawns among European fruit trees gone to seed, marauding hawthorn and a perfect row of full-grown poplars fostered from a line of fenceposts. Many of the whare house collections of implements and ashencrusted household goods, and contrast starkly with the simplicity of other dwellings such as Tohunga’s Whare, where the ill-fated priest lay buried alive for four days (see p.316). Look out too for the extremely rare, carved-stone pataka (storehouse) and the bow section of a waka once used to ferry tourists on the lake and allegedly brought to the district by Hongi Hika, when he invaded in 1823. Beyond the formal grounds a steep staircase and slippery boardwalk dive into the hill alongside Te Wairoa Falls, then climb up through dripping, fern-draped bush on the far side. Cruises on Lake Tarawera go from the Tarawera Landing, 2km east of the Buried Village, and are run by the owners of The Landing restaurant (see p.311; T 07/362 8595; W www.purerotorua.com). Of the five cruise options, the Eruption Trail (Nov–April daily 10.30am; May–Oct by arrangement; 3hr; $38) is the most relevant, taking you to the approximate site of the Pink and White Terraces; it includes a picnic lunch and an hour’s swim at a hot-water beach.

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$27.50; W www.geyserland.co.nz), 10km south of Waimangu (and 30km from Rotorua), just off SH5. This combines a vast expanse of multi-hued rocks and pools, New Zealand’s largest and most impressive lake of boiling mud and the Lady Knox Geyser, ignominiously induced to perform on schedule at 10.15am daily. Buy your ticket at the main entrance then double back 1km along the road to the geyser where, as the crowds fill the serried ranks of benches, a

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| Around Rotorua 318

Lady Knox Geyser, Wai-O-Tapu

Whirinaki Forest Park

| Around Rotorua

Midway between Waimangu and Wai-O-Tapu, 25km south of Rotorua, SH38 spurs southeast, running through the regimented pines of the Kaingaroa Forest towards the jagged peaks of Te Urewera National Park, a vast tract of untouched wilderness separating the Rotorua lakes from Poverty Bay and the East Cape. The Kaingaroa Forest finally relents 40km on, as the road crosses the Rangitaiki River by the predominantly Maori timber town of MURUPARA. The only reason to pull over is DOC’s Rangitaiki Area Visitor Centre, 1km southeast of town on SH38 (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 9am–3pm; T 07/366 1080), with diverting displays and stacks of information on Te Urewera National Park and Lake Waikaremoana (see p.422). Particular emphasis is given to the easily accessible Whirinaki Forest Park, a wonderful slice of country that harbours some of the densest and most impressive stands of bush on the North Island: podocarps on the river flats, and native beech on the steep volcanic uplands between them, support a wonderfully rich birdlife with tui, bellbirds, parakeets and kaka.The forest is now protected, after one of the country’s most celebrated environmental battles and is a wilderness paradise for hikers and mountain bikers alike (a dedicated mountain-bike track is detailed in the Ride Whirinaki leaflet from DOC visitor centres). To get to the forest tracks from the visitor centre, head 25km south to Minginui, from where the River Road runs 8km south to the Whirinaki (or River Road) car park. In four hours or so, setting out from the car park, you can sample some

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