New to me 1928 9" Model A (2025)

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Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #1

So, after running a Craigslist search for over a year, finally got a hit in local lathe. Turns out, I hit the jackpot so to speak.
Initially was not very hopeful, but after scrutinizing pics, realized it was a model A with taper attachment. Upon inspection, found it to be well beyond my highest hopes.
Looks to be original paint with almost no visible wear. Just dirty. This 1928 9" modal A came with -
Taper attachment, milling attachment, thread stop, thread dial, micrometer stop, following rest, steady rest, southbend wooden collet box, and a few other items I can't identify. Looks to be almost every attachment or accessories available at the time of manufacture.

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R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #2

What is this???

K

kitno455

Titanium
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Location
Virginia, USA
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #3

That looks like some kind of table saw blade guard. BTW, you have a wide-bed 9" lathe, not the later 9A Workshop lathe. I don't think 'A' was ever used to describe your lathe.

allan

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #4

Thanks for the info. I have a 1938 model c, but really wanted to find a southbend with qc gearbox and the taper attachment was a huge bonus along with the other accessories.
Model # is 782-A

A

arc

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Location
Illinois
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #5

Nice looking lathe in especially nice shape. I think that the mystery piece is some sort of saw guard also.

K

kitno455

Titanium
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Location
Virginia, USA
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #6

The 'A' in the catalog number is the bed length, 4 feet.

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #7

A bunch of years worth of dirt and grease, but the few spots I've cleaned look great for its age. So far only about 4-5" inches in front of chuck that have scraping mark wear. Hope to really dig into this over the weekend.
One negative is that it is missing hand wheel for milling attachment. Can make another easy enough, but I like them original parts.
Correct - it had a 4 foot bed.
This was the kind of info I was hoping for. Thanks guys, keep it coming.

paulsomlo

Stainless
Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Location
Colorado
  • Aug 18, 2016
  • #8

What type of countershaft assembly did it come with?

Paul

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 19, 2016
  • #9

The counter shaft is chain driven from the motor. Unfortunately, the arm that holds directional switch is broken. I have it and looks like someone had tried to mig weld it. Should be able to clean it up and braze/tig it back on. The switch is huge compared to the Furnace switch on my model c. I will throw some more picture up of the different parts and accessories tonight or tomorrow.
The headstock assembly Is interesting. A bit smaller looking compared to later models and appears to have brass/bronze inserts at the bearing caps??? Also has a different style thread protector than my C.

johnoder

Diamond
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Location
Houston, TX USA
  • Aug 19, 2016
  • #11

Series O apron controls......

In case its not immediately apparent, the apron knob with star loosens and shifts up and down to select between long and cross feed - or centered when threading

When its where you want it, tighten knob

The larger knob to left is apron clutch - engages or disengages feed gearing in apron - something your C wasn't born with

This machine may not have interlock between threading and feeding

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 19, 2016
  • #12

Thanks for the link and explanation of apron controls. I definitely needed that to understand it's workings. The motor is original and likely unsalvagable. I have yet to figure out how I will mount and replace motor. Also need a belt. I'm hoping to restore/refurbished this and resell the c, which is also in fantastic condition. I just don't have enough room for both. My wife has actually been very understanding. New to me 1928 9" Model A (8)

I

iwananew10K

Diamond
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Location
moscow,ohio
  • Aug 19, 2016
  • #13

Don't paint it!

That thing looks great....so do you have the "self contained" countershaft unit?

oh, for a belt try John..LeatherDriveBelts.com

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 19, 2016
  • #14

Lol. Not a chance. Scared you with the restore/refurbished comment did i? I agree, painting this would be sacrilege. Just needs cleaned thoroughly and oiled properly. Don't even plan on inspecting shaft if there isn't a reason to. Everything moves pretty well. All of the gits and oil plugs are in place and look to be clear of debri. Going to use a mirror and flashlight to inspect apron mechanics. Don't want to do any more fussing than needs to be.
Serial is 38732.

Looks like I'll only have one real day to play with it this weekend. Need to rapid prototype a modified design at work for a meeting Monday. Fun, but not the fun I had intended.

Keep going back to that link I wannanew10k posted. That's it to a "T". Definitely has the phospher bronze bearings. Didn't realize 9's came with these at any point.
I will try my best to document the different parts as I clean.
This is much more interesting than I had initially thought. New to me 1928 9" Model A (11)

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 20, 2016
  • #15

No surprises so far. Everything is pointing to this machine being well taken care of and actually use very little over its life of 89 years.
All gears intact and pretty clean.

G

gadget73

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
  • Aug 20, 2016
  • #16

Nice find

Whats wrong with the original motor? Those old ones are usually pretty tough. Unless the windings are torched, it may be nothing you can't sort out with a cap, cleaning the start switch, and maybe replacing the bearings. Interesting drive setup too. Is that original or did someone refit a timing chain off a V8 on there?

johnoder

Diamond
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Location
Houston, TX USA
  • Aug 20, 2016
  • #17

I think its shown in the link in post #10

gadget73 said:

Nice find

Interesting drive setup too. Is that original or did someone refit a timing chain off a V8 on there?

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 20, 2016
  • #18

gadget73 said:

Nice find

Whats wrong with the original motor? Those old ones are usually pretty tough. Unless the windings are torched, it may be nothing you can't sort out with a cap, cleaning the start switch, and maybe replacing the bearings. Interesting drive setup too. Is that original or did someone refit a timing chain off a V8 on there?

As johnoder points out, it is the original drive. This is definitely different in many ways to the "workshop" lathes that are so abundant, as I am finding out. And while the motor could possibly be salvaged, I would rather not spend all the time and just replace with a modern motor and possibly a vfd.

I

iwananew10K

Diamond
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Location
moscow,ohio
  • Aug 21, 2016
  • #19

Can you read the motor plate? Link says 1200rpm motor so an 1140rpm 3ph would be ideal...I would be wary of keeping the speeds to around original 45-700rpm...it might be hard to make it work in the original drive unit as everything has to be close to original size to fit...

R

Rodm1

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Location
Amish Country, U.S.A.
  • Aug 21, 2016
  • #20

iwananew10K said:

Can you read the motor plate? Link says 1200rpm motor so an 1140rpm 3ph would be ideal...I would be wary of keeping the speeds to around original 45-700rpm...it might be hard to make it work in the original drive unit as everything has to be close to original size to fit...

It is definitely the original motor, but I will see if I can clean up the name plate and verify the rpm. The isolation is totally shot on wiring and the motor itself is covered and grease and what appears to be saw and the former embedded in all the openings.
Going to be grabbing some industrial degrading soap from work today and some non-marring scrub pads. I have the lathe sitting on an old wood lathe stand and will most likely put some plastic underneath and get crazy with the cleaner,
One upgrade I will be fabricating is a chip pan and stand out of 316l stainless. Running a manufacturing facility that primarily uses stainless has its perks.

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New to me 1928 9" Model A (2025)

FAQs

How much is a 1928 Model A worth today? ›

Vehicle Valuation Analysis
BodystylesMedian Sale
Sedan$19,800
Standard Business Coupe$15,985
Touring Phaeton$23,100
Tudor$14,410
5 more rows

What is the rarest Model A? ›

Rarest Model A's

The actual model name is "convertible sedan" and only 4,864 of them were produced, all of them in 1931.

How much horsepower does a 1928 Ford Model A have? ›

The engine is a water-cooled L-head inline four with a displacement of 201 cu in. This engine provides 40 hp with a top speed of around 65 mph. The Model A had a 103.5 in wheelbase with a final drive ratio of 3.77:1.

Which Model A is the most valuable? ›

The most valuable Model A in the Hagerty Price Guide is a 1929 Town Car, while the least is a 1928–29 Business Coupe.

How many miles per gallon did the Model A get? ›

The 1931 Ford Model A was a very successful and popular automobile of the day. Capable of a speed up to 65 mph the automobile was known to have fuel consumption up to 30 mpg.

How many 1928 Model A were built? ›

2, 1927 and the first anniversary of that introduction the following December, a total of 733,044 Model A cars had been built. By the end of December 1928, the production total had been pushed to 818,734. By Feb. 4, 1929, the one-millionth Model A was built.

How many Model A still exist? ›

Yes. Some estimate that 250,000 Model A's still exist, some as complete cars, others in various stages of disassembly.

What was the last year they made a Model A? ›

Despite the onset of the Depression, Model A production remained strong at 1,261,053 cars in 1930 but fell to 626,579 cars in 1931, the last year that the Model A was produced. Donald E. Wolff donated this restored 1931 Ford to the Smithsonian in 1974.

How fast can a 1928 Ford Model A go? ›

While it still used a four cylinder, similar to the Model T, the Model A was more powerful and smooth and was capable of 55 to 65 mph. It came with Triplex shatterproof safety windshield and hydraulic shocks, both a first for Ford and unheard of in the low-priced field.

How much does a 1928 Ford model A weigh? ›

Ford Model A (1927–1931)
Ford Model A
Width67 in (1,702 mm)
Curb weight2,265–2,465 lb (1,027–1,118 kg)
Chronology
PredecessorFord Model T
21 more rows

What fuel did the Ford Model A use? ›

Ford Model A automobile converted to use wood gas from the gasification stove attached to the back of the car. The engine works with modern unleaded regular gasoline.

How much did a Ford Model A cost in 1928? ›

Prices for the open-cab version started at $395, while the closed-cab pickup started at $445. Ford sold nearly 62,000 trucks for 1928. Ford's 1928 Model A pickup was based on its Model A car. It used the same four-cylinder, 40-horsepower engine.

Does the Model A have electric start? ›

The Model A featured electric start, and conventional ignition which required much less knowledge on the part of the owner.

What is the current price for a Model A? ›

A: The average price of a Ford Model A is $19,983.

How much did a 1929 Ford Model A cost new? ›

Original prices for the Model A ranged from $385 to $1,400 for the high-end Town Car. This particular vehicle had an MSRP of $525. The engine featured an inline 4 cylinders with a displacement of 201 CID.

What would a Model T be worth today? ›

A: The average price of a Ford Model T is $16,706.

How much was a car in 1928? ›

Prices for the Model A ranged from US$385 for a roadster to US$1,400 for the town car.

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